I.B. Brands forums have thus far been an excellent resource for finding answers to my very pointed mechanical questions over the years... I hope this case is no different.

My newest patient is an '01 slk230 with the 2.3sc 4banger.
Patient's owner started to experience extreme loss of power abruptly followed by a no start/no run scenario. Patient's owner took the vehicle to a "mechanic" in Houston, Tx for diagnosis & repair. Said "mechanic" diagnosed blown head gasket, and bent connecting rods!? Said "mechanic" attempted to convince the customer to pull the trigger on a 1200$ head gasket job, and a 2200$ engine rebuild!!!???

So the patient's owner contacted the good Dr...
The good Dr recommended removing the vehicle from the hands of said "mechanic" as soon as possible. A couple weeks later the owners arranged transport from the big city to my neck of the woods, and poof... there was a little German sports car in my lineup....

The "mechanic" attempted to disassemble the engine while it was still in the vehicle. Every bolt, nut, screw removed was thrown all together in a single box of chaos. Hard rotating parts were left exposed to the elements. Rust covers the cam lobes. Much of the engine is simply gone. The "mechanic" failed to include the alternator, intake manifold, both tensioners, and last but not least... THE FREAKIN SUPERCHARGER!

The experience of dealing with said "mechanic" left such a bad taste in the owner's mouths that they opted to just buy a complete salvage unit rather than have to try retrieving their property. I found a very nice unit with around 60k miles on it for just under a grand including shipping... it came with absolutely everything. It even has the starter still dangling from it.

I have just swapped the exhaust manifold out on it to the 2 piece that this 230 is equipped with and am at this point about ready to start thinking about dropping it in the car...

to my questions:

Bolts:
what are the transmission to engine mating fastener size? I could go through the box of chaos and find bolts that "fit" but I would prefer to know the dimensions so I can accurately measure and identify. Being a machinist by trade... I tend to get a bit rectal when it comes to proper thread form and fit.

Torque Converter:
Does the tc need to be installed prior to dropping in the motor... or does it go in with the motor as an assembly. I see that the tc shaft is keyed... im assuming that is for the pump and must be aligned so the keys slip into the slots...

The bolts I can figure out on my own if nobody has the dimensions... but the tc kind of has me spooked. I would be very appreciative of any guidance.

 

lol... well not as old as I feel sometimes... but yes I have indeed broken a wrench or two over the years...

 

https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...converter.html

Found what I needed to know here on the forum.
just wasn't sure if I should try stabbing the tc in while bolted up rather than fight those tc bolts after the motor and trans are mated... I'll fight the bolts rather than take a chance. looks like the feller that had this car before me just yanked it straight out.

 

So dropping a motor into one of these is stoopid easy. Probably one of the easiest installs I have done aside from a briggs on a lawnmower.

Did run into a little snag hooking up intercooler boots on the driver's side.
Half of both the little bail clips are missing. I'm having real trouble trying to find replacements. I'd rather not have to resort to fabricating something if replacements can be bought.

Any idears?

 

For anyone else looking for answers to how to go about an engine r&r on one of these...
1. Lift it
2.disconnect torque converter from flexplate.
3.remove starter
4.remove bell housing to block fasteners.
5.remove engine mount top bolt from both sides.
6.assuming you have disconnected all power steering lines and ground, coolant lines, a/c connections, vacuum lines, cac/intercooler tubes, fuel feed, and peripheral electrical connections like the map.... expose the lifting tabs under the engine cover and yank that puppy up-foreward... and out.

Its better if the radiator and shroud are out of the way before you start yanking on the motor...

reinstall in reverse order.

put a jack with a little wood support under the bell housing and get it at a bit of an upward facing angle to stab the motor in. its light enough to jiggle around on the mounts to settle its butt into place. use a long bolt in the top passengers side trans mating point to help align the two together. easy peasy.

watch your knuckles on that sharp edge of the passenger side firewall heat shield.