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My brand new 2015 SLK 250 jerks while climbing slightly inclined roads and driveways at speeds under 10 MPH and in "E" mode. It experiences this symptom about once per week - always at one incline on one road that I pass everyday - however the majority of the time, it does not jerk and hop. Any ideas?
Is it when the engine/transmission is still cold?
I sometime have a similar experience with my R171 when it's cold and I first pull away with the auto-'box in 'C' mode. I think it's because it's pulling away in 2nd gear (as it's designed to do in 'C' mode), and then it feels like it snatches 1st gear at a very low speed as I pull away, resulting in a 'jerk'.
Not sure whether that helps, or whether anyone else has any other suggestions...
My brand new 2015 SLK 250 jerks while climbing slightly inclined roads and driveways at speeds under 10 MPH and in "E" mode. It experiences this symptom about once per week - always at one incline on one road that I pass everyday - however the majority of the time, it does not jerk and hop. Any ideas?
My new E class had similar symptoms (hard jerks while downshifting in low speed on up incline) but happened very rarely. I ignored it for two years. Recently I mentioned it to service advisor (techs could not replicate problem) who did a software update anyway. The transmission is far smoother and hasn't jerked since then. Keeping my fingers crossed. Wish I had done it sooner.
I believe the bug is a "feature" of the MB 7 speed transmission. Good luck.
I felt the same thing on my 2013 SLK 350. As dgrn mentioned, ... I found it does it in "E" mode. Try the same route in "S" instead. I think it is dropping down from 2nd to first.
Same thing when in "E" mode from a stop, creep forward then give a touch of gas (like if you decide to sprint across an intersection through traffic).
In "E" mode you start out from second, ... then when you ask for power, the transmission drops into first.
2004 E320; 2012 SLK 350; 1973 MGB MK III roadster.
My 04 E320 (110,000 well-maintained miles) does this, only when engine isn't warm. Changed Transmission fluid and filter at 105,000, fluid level is full, engine oil is good. Once it's warmed up (about 5 min), it's fine. Been going on for 3 years.
I'm new to this thread and would like to share with you the problem that I'm having wth the transmission of my 2006 W211 E280 CDI and hope that you could help me solve this.
The car was bought recently and the seller was good enough to pinpoint that it would need 2 Fuel Pressure Rail Sensors changed as the Check Engine Light is on. Soon as I took the car home I had it scanned to make sure (the results I'm posting together with thread) and true enough the scanned said that Fuel Rail Pressure's signal voltage is low (and there are some other codes which I believe is not connected with the transmission but you be the judge). So, instead of changing the Fuel Pressure Sensors, I changed first the Fuel Filter to see if this will do the job. Sure enough, the check engine light is gone and hasn't been back for 3 weeks now.
The car would drive brilliantly for 40 minutes and then after this, this is where there car's transmission plays up. When shifitng from 2 to 3 and 4 and so on, it would first rev up before the car would settle for the right gear. And at traffic light you would notice a sort of a misfire (it would only do this once). Now, I had the transmission oil changed, with the new filter and gasket and 5 litters of oil. And once I drive it, it goes brilliantly with the shifting seamlessly. Until...30 - 40 minutes later, it would start with the same problem.
Other things: When I get home (with experiencing) the transmission problem and turn the key off there would be a slight gruff(??) or rough before it completely turns off. But,,,when I have been driving within the span of the 20 - 30 minutes without having any transmission issue, and turn the key off, the car would turn off "smoothly".
I've been thinking that the Fuel Pressure Rail Sensor is the culprit, after all. But my question is, why is the Check Engine Light gone now once I changed the Fuel Filter? And, if it is the transmission's fault (transmission valve, etc.), why has the Scan tool didn't throw any code at all, in this regard?
Please, any thoughts on this is most welcome. Thank you in advance!
09-26-2015, 09:04 AM
