New H&R and Bilstein Sport Install
08-07-2007 | 02:46 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
2001 E55
New H&R and Bilstein Sport Install
Prior Setup: Factory AMG springs & shocks, #3 pads front and rear
New Setup:
-H&R Sport Springs for v8 Benz, p/n 52724
-Bilstein Sport Shocks BE3.AO58 front, BE3.A057 rear
-Factory #3 pads reused front & rear
-Also added Stoptech S/S brake lines and Akebono Euro Pro pads all the way around
-New Lower Control Arms (original bushings shot)
-New lower ball joints (excessive play on drivers side)
On the stock suspension I measured 26.5" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch thru the wheel center. The rear measurement was 27.0".
On the new suspension I measured 27.25" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch, and the rear measurement is 26.5". These measurements are fresh after the install and obviously a couple of things need to happen: 1) readjust the pads for correct front/rear stance, and 2) springs will need 2-4 weeks to settle in to their compressed state.
I am obviously pissed that the springs did not immediately provide an even drop, but actually raised the car in the front. Looking at the springs compared to the factory AMG's on the floor, the rears were shorter by about .75" and the fronts were the exact same length as my stockers with 79k miles on them. (pics of this coming tonight)
Yes everything is installed correctly and there is no need to double check but I will be going back into the front end to redo the pads.
On to the ride: The car does not ride at all like stock. It is noticeably stiffer and more planted. Previously the car was comfortable to the point of being a little too loose for me, considering the power available, but this is my daily so 9 times out of 10 I would have not complained. The new ride is very taut and sporty. I wouldn't say the frequency of the bumps is more, I'm on stock 18" wheels, but there is more transmission of suspension movement to the cockpit. My head and body definitely move around more as the car traverses bumps and dips in the road. Others have mentioned a stock to 10% stiffer feel, I say it's about 25% stiffer.
Side/side handling is much improved, the car now corners flat. Car definitely feels like a sportscar in this respect with negligible body roll. Low speed parking lot maneuvers seem ok with no rubbing issues or creaks.
Overall having driven the car on the stock suspension for the last 2 years I'd say I will miss how it used to ride. Due to a broken front spring I didn't have much choice in going to the H&R's. I have ridden in a W210 E55 that did H&R's on stock springs and that car rode noticeably better than mine does now after the change. For anyone looking to preserve their ride and lower their car I would recommend doing the H&R's on stock shocks and avoid the Bilstein Sports. My stock shocks are worn but I may go back to them depending on how the next month goes on the new suspension. Also I will update once I have a better handle on the pad situation. I have a set of #1 pads for all around at home now, I'm debating putting these in the front and leaving the rear at #3.
Also a consideration is that I have removed secondary cats and resonator, to the tune of 50-60 lbs (will weigh tonight) which is not an insubstantial amount of weight and may have caused the rear to not drop as much.
On the brakes - the one thing I hated about the car was the mushy pedal feel and too much pedal travel. With a new set of pads and SS lines flushed with new fluid the brake feel is much improved. Bleeding the brakes was a chore even with a power bleeder but the work was worth it. Brake pressure is now very steady and controlled and I can feel the bite of the pads earlier in the pedal movement. Also modulation of the brakes is much better, I'd HIGHLY recommend the SS lines for this car. The pedal is still not where I'd like it to be but is is much better than stock.
New Setup:
-H&R Sport Springs for v8 Benz, p/n 52724
-Bilstein Sport Shocks BE3.AO58 front, BE3.A057 rear
-Factory #3 pads reused front & rear
-Also added Stoptech S/S brake lines and Akebono Euro Pro pads all the way around
-New Lower Control Arms (original bushings shot)
-New lower ball joints (excessive play on drivers side)
On the stock suspension I measured 26.5" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch thru the wheel center. The rear measurement was 27.0".
On the new suspension I measured 27.25" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch, and the rear measurement is 26.5". These measurements are fresh after the install and obviously a couple of things need to happen: 1) readjust the pads for correct front/rear stance, and 2) springs will need 2-4 weeks to settle in to their compressed state.
I am obviously pissed that the springs did not immediately provide an even drop, but actually raised the car in the front. Looking at the springs compared to the factory AMG's on the floor, the rears were shorter by about .75" and the fronts were the exact same length as my stockers with 79k miles on them. (pics of this coming tonight)
Yes everything is installed correctly and there is no need to double check but I will be going back into the front end to redo the pads.
On to the ride: The car does not ride at all like stock. It is noticeably stiffer and more planted. Previously the car was comfortable to the point of being a little too loose for me, considering the power available, but this is my daily so 9 times out of 10 I would have not complained. The new ride is very taut and sporty. I wouldn't say the frequency of the bumps is more, I'm on stock 18" wheels, but there is more transmission of suspension movement to the cockpit. My head and body definitely move around more as the car traverses bumps and dips in the road. Others have mentioned a stock to 10% stiffer feel, I say it's about 25% stiffer.
Side/side handling is much improved, the car now corners flat. Car definitely feels like a sportscar in this respect with negligible body roll. Low speed parking lot maneuvers seem ok with no rubbing issues or creaks.
Overall having driven the car on the stock suspension for the last 2 years I'd say I will miss how it used to ride. Due to a broken front spring I didn't have much choice in going to the H&R's. I have ridden in a W210 E55 that did H&R's on stock springs and that car rode noticeably better than mine does now after the change. For anyone looking to preserve their ride and lower their car I would recommend doing the H&R's on stock shocks and avoid the Bilstein Sports. My stock shocks are worn but I may go back to them depending on how the next month goes on the new suspension. Also I will update once I have a better handle on the pad situation. I have a set of #1 pads for all around at home now, I'm debating putting these in the front and leaving the rear at #3.
Also a consideration is that I have removed secondary cats and resonator, to the tune of 50-60 lbs (will weigh tonight) which is not an insubstantial amount of weight and may have caused the rear to not drop as much.
On the brakes - the one thing I hated about the car was the mushy pedal feel and too much pedal travel. With a new set of pads and SS lines flushed with new fluid the brake feel is much improved. Bleeding the brakes was a chore even with a power bleeder but the work was worth it. Brake pressure is now very steady and controlled and I can feel the bite of the pads earlier in the pedal movement. Also modulation of the brakes is much better, I'd HIGHLY recommend the SS lines for this car. The pedal is still not where I'd like it to be but is is much better than stock.
Last edited by X55; 08-08-2007 at 10:52 AM.
08-07-2007 | 03:04 PM
#2
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
'00 E55, 05 C55, '99 328i
Ok, I know it's a bit soon, but what are your impressions? Do they meet your expectations, and do you find them stiffer than expected? Thanks.
08-07-2007 | 03:06 PM
#3
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
'00 E55, 05 C55, '99 328i
Prior Setup: Factory AMG springs & shocks, #3 pads front and rear
New Setup: -H&R Sport Springs for v8 Benz, p/n 52724
-Bilstein Sport Shocks BE3.AO58 front, BE3.A057 rear
-Factory #3 pads reused front & rear
-Also added Stoptech S/S brake lines and Akebono Euro
Pro pads all the way around
On the stock suspension I measured 26.5" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch thru the wheel center. The rear measurement was 27.0".
On the new suspension I measured 27.25" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch, and the rear measurement is 26.5". These measurements are fresh after the install and obviously a couple of things need to happen: 1) readjust the pads for correct front/rear stance, and 2) springs will need 2-4 weeks to settle in to their compressed state.
I am obviously pissed that the springs did not immediately provide an even drop, but actually raised the car in the front. Looking at the springs compared to the factory AMG's on the floor, the rears were shorter by about .75" and the fronts were the exact same length as my stockers with 79k miles on them. (pics of this coming tonight)
Yes everything is installed correctly and there is no need to double check but I will be going back into the front end to redo the pads.
On to the ride: The car does not ride at all like stock. It is noticeably stiffer and more planted. Previously the car was comfortable to the point of being a little too loose for me, considering the power available, but this is my daily so 9 times out of 10 I would have not complained. The new ride is very taut and sporty. I wouldn't say the frequency of the bumps is more, I'm on stock 18" wheels, but there is more transmission of suspension movement to the cockpit. My head and body definitely move around more as the car traverses bumps and dips in the road. Others have mentioned a stock to 10% stiffer feel, I say it's about 25% stiffer.
Side/side handling is much improved, the car now corners flat. Car definitely feels like a sportscar in this respect with negligible body roll. Low speed parking lot maneuvers seem ok with no rubbing issues or creaks.
Overall having driven the car on the stock suspension for the last 2 years I'd say I will miss how it used to ride. Due to a broken front spring I didn't have much choice in going to the H&R's. I have ridden in a W210 E55 that did H&R's on stock springs and that car rode noticeably better than mine. For anyone looking to preserve their ride and lower their car I would recommend doing the H&R's on stock shocks and avoid the Bilstein Sports. My stock shocks are worn but I may go back to them depending on how the next month goes on the new suspension. Also I will update once I have a better handle on the pad situation. I have a set of #1 pads for all around at home now, I'm debating putting these in the front and leaving the rear at #3.
Also a consideration is that I have removed secondary cats and resonator, to the tune of 50-60 lbs (will weigh tonight) which is not an insubstantial amount of weight.
New Setup: -H&R Sport Springs for v8 Benz, p/n 52724
-Bilstein Sport Shocks BE3.AO58 front, BE3.A057 rear
-Factory #3 pads reused front & rear
-Also added Stoptech S/S brake lines and Akebono Euro
Pro pads all the way around
On the stock suspension I measured 26.5" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch thru the wheel center. The rear measurement was 27.0".
On the new suspension I measured 27.25" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch, and the rear measurement is 26.5". These measurements are fresh after the install and obviously a couple of things need to happen: 1) readjust the pads for correct front/rear stance, and 2) springs will need 2-4 weeks to settle in to their compressed state.
I am obviously pissed that the springs did not immediately provide an even drop, but actually raised the car in the front. Looking at the springs compared to the factory AMG's on the floor, the rears were shorter by about .75" and the fronts were the exact same length as my stockers with 79k miles on them. (pics of this coming tonight)
Yes everything is installed correctly and there is no need to double check but I will be going back into the front end to redo the pads.
On to the ride: The car does not ride at all like stock. It is noticeably stiffer and more planted. Previously the car was comfortable to the point of being a little too loose for me, considering the power available, but this is my daily so 9 times out of 10 I would have not complained. The new ride is very taut and sporty. I wouldn't say the frequency of the bumps is more, I'm on stock 18" wheels, but there is more transmission of suspension movement to the cockpit. My head and body definitely move around more as the car traverses bumps and dips in the road. Others have mentioned a stock to 10% stiffer feel, I say it's about 25% stiffer.
Side/side handling is much improved, the car now corners flat. Car definitely feels like a sportscar in this respect with negligible body roll. Low speed parking lot maneuvers seem ok with no rubbing issues or creaks.
Overall having driven the car on the stock suspension for the last 2 years I'd say I will miss how it used to ride. Due to a broken front spring I didn't have much choice in going to the H&R's. I have ridden in a W210 E55 that did H&R's on stock springs and that car rode noticeably better than mine. For anyone looking to preserve their ride and lower their car I would recommend doing the H&R's on stock shocks and avoid the Bilstein Sports. My stock shocks are worn but I may go back to them depending on how the next month goes on the new suspension. Also I will update once I have a better handle on the pad situation. I have a set of #1 pads for all around at home now, I'm debating putting these in the front and leaving the rear at #3.
Also a consideration is that I have removed secondary cats and resonator, to the tune of 50-60 lbs (will weigh tonight) which is not an insubstantial amount of weight.
08-07-2007 | 03:10 PM
#4
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
'00 E55, 05 C55, '99 328i
Prior Setup: Factory AMG springs & shocks, #3 pads front and rear
New Setup: -H&R Sport Springs for v8 Benz, p/n 52724
-Bilstein Sport Shocks BE3.AO58 front, BE3.A057 rear
-Factory #3 pads reused front & rear
-Also added Stoptech S/S brake lines and Akebono Euro
Pro pads all the way around
On the stock suspension I measured 26.5" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch thru the wheel center. The rear measurement was 27.0".
On the new suspension I measured 27.25" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch, and the rear measurement is 26.5". These measurements are fresh after the install and obviously a couple of things need to happen: 1) readjust the pads for correct front/rear stance, and 2) springs will need 2-4 weeks to settle in to their compressed state.
I am obviously pissed that the springs did not immediately provide an even drop, but actually raised the car in the front. Looking at the springs compared to the factory AMG's on the floor, the rears were shorter by about .75" and the fronts were the exact same length as my stockers with 79k miles on them. (pics of this coming tonight)
Yes everything is installed correctly and there is no need to double check but I will be going back into the front end to redo the pads.
On to the ride: The car does not ride at all like stock. It is noticeably stiffer and more planted. Previously the car was comfortable to the point of being a little too loose for me, considering the power available, but this is my daily so 9 times out of 10 I would have not complained. The new ride is very taut and sporty. I wouldn't say the frequency of the bumps is more, I'm on stock 18" wheels, but there is more transmission of suspension movement to the cockpit. My head and body definitely move around more as the car traverses bumps and dips in the road. Others have mentioned a stock to 10% stiffer feel, I say it's about 25% stiffer.
Side/side handling is much improved, the car now corners flat. Car definitely feels like a sportscar in this respect with negligible body roll. Low speed parking lot maneuvers seem ok with no rubbing issues or creaks.
Overall having driven the car on the stock suspension for the last 2 years I'd say I will miss how it used to ride. Due to a broken front spring I didn't have much choice in going to the H&R's. I have ridden in a W210 E55 that did H&R's on stock springs and that car rode noticeably better than mine does now after the change. For anyone looking to preserve their ride and lower their car I would recommend doing the H&R's on stock shocks and avoid the Bilstein Sports. My stock shocks are worn but I may go back to them depending on how the next month goes on the new suspension. Also I will update once I have a better handle on the pad situation. I have a set of #1 pads for all around at home now, I'm debating putting these in the front and leaving the rear at #3.
Also a consideration is that I have removed secondary cats and resonator, to the tune of 50-60 lbs (will weigh tonight) which is not an insubstantial amount of weight and may have caused the rear to not drop as much.
New Setup: -H&R Sport Springs for v8 Benz, p/n 52724
-Bilstein Sport Shocks BE3.AO58 front, BE3.A057 rear
-Factory #3 pads reused front & rear
-Also added Stoptech S/S brake lines and Akebono Euro
Pro pads all the way around
On the stock suspension I measured 26.5" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch thru the wheel center. The rear measurement was 27.0".
On the new suspension I measured 27.25" from the floor to the top of the front fender arch, and the rear measurement is 26.5". These measurements are fresh after the install and obviously a couple of things need to happen: 1) readjust the pads for correct front/rear stance, and 2) springs will need 2-4 weeks to settle in to their compressed state.
I am obviously pissed that the springs did not immediately provide an even drop, but actually raised the car in the front. Looking at the springs compared to the factory AMG's on the floor, the rears were shorter by about .75" and the fronts were the exact same length as my stockers with 79k miles on them. (pics of this coming tonight)
Yes everything is installed correctly and there is no need to double check but I will be going back into the front end to redo the pads.
On to the ride: The car does not ride at all like stock. It is noticeably stiffer and more planted. Previously the car was comfortable to the point of being a little too loose for me, considering the power available, but this is my daily so 9 times out of 10 I would have not complained. The new ride is very taut and sporty. I wouldn't say the frequency of the bumps is more, I'm on stock 18" wheels, but there is more transmission of suspension movement to the cockpit. My head and body definitely move around more as the car traverses bumps and dips in the road. Others have mentioned a stock to 10% stiffer feel, I say it's about 25% stiffer.
Side/side handling is much improved, the car now corners flat. Car definitely feels like a sportscar in this respect with negligible body roll. Low speed parking lot maneuvers seem ok with no rubbing issues or creaks.
Overall having driven the car on the stock suspension for the last 2 years I'd say I will miss how it used to ride. Due to a broken front spring I didn't have much choice in going to the H&R's. I have ridden in a W210 E55 that did H&R's on stock springs and that car rode noticeably better than mine does now after the change. For anyone looking to preserve their ride and lower their car I would recommend doing the H&R's on stock shocks and avoid the Bilstein Sports. My stock shocks are worn but I may go back to them depending on how the next month goes on the new suspension. Also I will update once I have a better handle on the pad situation. I have a set of #1 pads for all around at home now, I'm debating putting these in the front and leaving the rear at #3.
Also a consideration is that I have removed secondary cats and resonator, to the tune of 50-60 lbs (will weigh tonight) which is not an insubstantial amount of weight and may have caused the rear to not drop as much.
Wow! Ok. I was hoping for a different result, but thanks for the heads up. Will look forward to your update and hold off until then. Thanks again.
08-07-2007 | 03:12 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
2001 E55
Yeah I won't sugar coat it, I was spoiled by the cushy ride before. As I get older I'm not interested in hard riding cars and the H&R's plus Sport shocks is a little more than I wanted. I didn't spend as much time as I would have liked in the car with H&R's and stock shocks but I can definitely say it was not as sharp-edged as mine is now.
08-07-2007 | 03:40 PM
#6
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
'00 E55, 05 C55, '99 328i
Yeah I won't sugar coat it, I was spoiled by the cushy ride before. As I get older I'm not interested in hard riding cars and the H&R's plus Sport shocks is a little more than I wanted. I didn't spend as much time as I would have liked in the car with H&R's and stock shocks but I can definitely say it was not as sharp-edged as mine is now.
On a different note, where did you get the SS brake lines and for how much? Sounds like a good idea. Thanks.
08-07-2007 | 05:46 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
2001 E55
SS lines were from Stoptech, I believe I bought them from buybrakes.com. Total for both front and rear was somewhere around $110.
Install is relatively easy. You will have the stock caliper and line in installed position on the hub/rotor, loaded with your new or used pads if not changing anything else. First loosen the connection to the hard line on the frame with an 11mm flare nut wrench. Once this fitting comes apart you can loosen the one on the caliper itself and the line can spin freely out of the caliper. Installation is the reverse. Attach the line to the caliper first, then to the hard line on the frame. The washers provided in the kit are NOT crush washers, they are backing plates for the hard line connection.
The washers slip on to the end of the line which attaches to the hard line and act as backers to keep the hard line clip system intact. It's self explanatory during the install. The washer hits the bottom portion of the hard line retainer and the hard line junction stays in the same spot so it still has the spring loaded clip retention feature.
I bled the brakes from the farthest caliper to the closest. The majority of the air came from the farthest (right rear) line, that one seemed to take forever. Then all the other calipers came up clear with no bubbles so I'm wondering if the distribution of the brake lines due to the ESP system caused this, allowing me to purge all the air from one line. Regardless, brake feel is much better and I highly recommend these. Having gone thru a pad & rotor change in the past I know the difference and it's definitely in the SS lines.
Install is relatively easy. You will have the stock caliper and line in installed position on the hub/rotor, loaded with your new or used pads if not changing anything else. First loosen the connection to the hard line on the frame with an 11mm flare nut wrench. Once this fitting comes apart you can loosen the one on the caliper itself and the line can spin freely out of the caliper. Installation is the reverse. Attach the line to the caliper first, then to the hard line on the frame. The washers provided in the kit are NOT crush washers, they are backing plates for the hard line connection.
The washers slip on to the end of the line which attaches to the hard line and act as backers to keep the hard line clip system intact. It's self explanatory during the install. The washer hits the bottom portion of the hard line retainer and the hard line junction stays in the same spot so it still has the spring loaded clip retention feature.
I bled the brakes from the farthest caliper to the closest. The majority of the air came from the farthest (right rear) line, that one seemed to take forever. Then all the other calipers came up clear with no bubbles so I'm wondering if the distribution of the brake lines due to the ESP system caused this, allowing me to purge all the air from one line. Regardless, brake feel is much better and I highly recommend these. Having gone thru a pad & rotor change in the past I know the difference and it's definitely in the SS lines.
Last edited by X55; 08-07-2007 at 05:58 PM.
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08-07-2007 | 09:40 PM
#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 7
From: Socal
07E63, 12E350, 08997TT, 16SiennaSE
X, how hard is it to remove the springs?? I bought the H&R Spring & Bilstein shock but haven't had a chance to install them. Any problem you ran into? How did other owner get a lower drop if they use the same spring?
You think if I use #1 pad all around with H&R spring I can decrease the fender gap?
You think if I use #1 pad all around with H&R spring I can decrease the fender gap?
08-08-2007 | 07:26 AM
#9
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: ipswich / suffolk UK
2002 e55 w211 ....
if its any help i have just installed the H+R springs on standard shocks...... ride is a little firmer and you def feel the bumps more... im running 19's and pads 2# front and 1# which lowers the car 24mm...
car sits level, and no problems as of yet..... i will be looking for shocks at some point, or i may go for coil overs i have not yet decided.....
Im in uk ... and on a euro e55 w210 the pad numbers were 3#front 2#back standard sits very nice with tyre just in line with arch/fender, fronts just tucked under...
car sits level, and no problems as of yet..... i will be looking for shocks at some point, or i may go for coil overs i have not yet decided.....
Im in uk ... and on a euro e55 w210 the pad numbers were 3#front 2#back standard sits very nice with tyre just in line with arch/fender, fronts just tucked under...
08-08-2007 | 10:28 AM
#10
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
'00 E55, 05 C55, '99 328i
SS lines were from Stoptech, I believe I bought them from buybrakes.com. Total for both front and rear was somewhere around $110.
Install is relatively easy. You will have the stock caliper and line in installed position on the hub/rotor, loaded with your new or used pads if not changing anything else. First loosen the connection to the hard line on the frame with an 11mm flare nut wrench. Once this fitting comes apart you can loosen the one on the caliper itself and the line can spin freely out of the caliper. Installation is the reverse. Attach the line to the caliper first, then to the hard line on the frame. The washers provided in the kit are NOT crush washers, they are backing plates for the hard line connection.
The washers slip on to the end of the line which attaches to the hard line and act as backers to keep the hard line clip system intact. It's self explanatory during the install. The washer hits the bottom portion of the hard line retainer and the hard line junction stays in the same spot so it still has the spring loaded clip retention feature.
I bled the brakes from the farthest caliper to the closest. The majority of the air came from the farthest (right rear) line, that one seemed to take forever. Then all the other calipers came up clear with no bubbles so I'm wondering if the distribution of the brake lines due to the ESP system caused this, allowing me to purge all the air from one line. Regardless, brake feel is much better and I highly recommend these. Having gone thru a pad & rotor change in the past I know the difference and it's definitely in the SS lines.
Install is relatively easy. You will have the stock caliper and line in installed position on the hub/rotor, loaded with your new or used pads if not changing anything else. First loosen the connection to the hard line on the frame with an 11mm flare nut wrench. Once this fitting comes apart you can loosen the one on the caliper itself and the line can spin freely out of the caliper. Installation is the reverse. Attach the line to the caliper first, then to the hard line on the frame. The washers provided in the kit are NOT crush washers, they are backing plates for the hard line connection.
The washers slip on to the end of the line which attaches to the hard line and act as backers to keep the hard line clip system intact. It's self explanatory during the install. The washer hits the bottom portion of the hard line retainer and the hard line junction stays in the same spot so it still has the spring loaded clip retention feature.
I bled the brakes from the farthest caliper to the closest. The majority of the air came from the farthest (right rear) line, that one seemed to take forever. Then all the other calipers came up clear with no bubbles so I'm wondering if the distribution of the brake lines due to the ESP system caused this, allowing me to purge all the air from one line. Regardless, brake feel is much better and I highly recommend these. Having gone thru a pad & rotor change in the past I know the difference and it's definitely in the SS lines.
08-08-2007 | 10:43 AM
#11
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
2001 E55
Dropped the front springs last night and put in #1 pads I had. The front end is now at 26.25" high, down from 26.50" stock and 27.25" with the #3 pads and brand new H&R springs. Rear is holding at 26.50" high but there's only about 1/2 tank of gas in the car. I imagine with a full tank the car will level off. Still have the #3 pads in the rear. The nice thing is I'm getting good at pulling the front springs and can swap the pads out and the car back on the ground ready to go in less than an hour for both sides. 
The goal at this point is to have the front fender arch height at 26.0 inches and the rear at 26.25 with a full tank of gas. I feel that any lower and the car will have a much higher chance of scraping on curbs/speedbumps etc.
The current plan is to let the suspension settle in with these pads for the next 30 days. Once the ride height is settled I'll put in the appropriate pads for the desired ride height and do an alignment. The steering wheel is actually not off center right now but there's a very loose feeling during turns and it's not self-centering as well as before. Not a big deal and I don't anticipate too much unusual tire wear.
My recommendation for anyone who wants to preserve the factory ride is to keep the stock springs, put in #1 pads and be done with it. Moving from #3 to #1 pads resulted in a .75-1.0 inch drop on a new set of springs which is plenty. Had my original front spring not broken I would have gone this route. I'm curious now to price out a set of new front springs at the dealer and see what it would cost compared to the H&R's.
The goal at this point is to have the front fender arch height at 26.0 inches and the rear at 26.25 with a full tank of gas. I feel that any lower and the car will have a much higher chance of scraping on curbs/speedbumps etc.The current plan is to let the suspension settle in with these pads for the next 30 days. Once the ride height is settled I'll put in the appropriate pads for the desired ride height and do an alignment. The steering wheel is actually not off center right now but there's a very loose feeling during turns and it's not self-centering as well as before. Not a big deal and I don't anticipate too much unusual tire wear.
My recommendation for anyone who wants to preserve the factory ride is to keep the stock springs, put in #1 pads and be done with it. Moving from #3 to #1 pads resulted in a .75-1.0 inch drop on a new set of springs which is plenty. Had my original front spring not broken I would have gone this route. I'm curious now to price out a set of new front springs at the dealer and see what it would cost compared to the H&R's.
Last edited by X55; 08-08-2007 at 10:49 AM.
08-08-2007 | 11:25 AM
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 7
From: Socal
07E63, 12E350, 08997TT, 16SiennaSE
Dropped the front springs last night and put in #1 pads I had. The front end is now at 26.25" high, down from 26.50" stock and 27.25" with the #3 pads and brand new H&R springs. Rear is holding at 26.50" high but there's only about 1/2 tank of gas in the car. I imagine with a full tank the car will level off. Still have the #3 pads in the rear. The nice thing is I'm getting good at pulling the front springs and can swap the pads out and the car back on the ground ready to go in less than an hour for both sides. The goal at this point is to have the front fender arch height at 26.0 inches and the rear at 26.25 with a full tank of gas. I feel that any lower and the car will have a much higher chance of scraping on curbs/speedbumps etc.
The current plan is to let the suspension settle in with these pads for the next 30 days. Once the ride height is settled I'll put in the appropriate pads for the desired ride height and do an alignment. The steering wheel is actually not off center right now but there's a very loose feeling during turns and it's not self-centering as well as before. Not a big deal and I don't anticipate too much unusual tire wear.
My recommendation for anyone who wants to preserve the factory ride is to keep the stock springs, put in #1 pads and be done with it. Moving from #3 to #1 pads resulted in a .75-1.0 inch drop on a new set of springs which is plenty. Had my original front spring not broken I would have gone this route. I'm curious now to price out a set of new front springs at the dealer and see what it would cost compared to the H&R's.
The goal at this point is to have the front fender arch height at 26.0 inches and the rear at 26.25 with a full tank of gas. I feel that any lower and the car will have a much higher chance of scraping on curbs/speedbumps etc.The current plan is to let the suspension settle in with these pads for the next 30 days. Once the ride height is settled I'll put in the appropriate pads for the desired ride height and do an alignment. The steering wheel is actually not off center right now but there's a very loose feeling during turns and it's not self-centering as well as before. Not a big deal and I don't anticipate too much unusual tire wear.
My recommendation for anyone who wants to preserve the factory ride is to keep the stock springs, put in #1 pads and be done with it. Moving from #3 to #1 pads resulted in a .75-1.0 inch drop on a new set of springs which is plenty. Had my original front spring not broken I would have gone this route. I'm curious now to price out a set of new front springs at the dealer and see what it would cost compared to the H&R's.
08-08-2007 | 05:38 PM
#14
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Socal
07E63, 12E350, 08997TT, 16SiennaSE
08-08-2007 | 05:42 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
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From: Chicago
2001 E55
As posted in the other thread, I have the Zdmak W210 compressor which I bought on ebay. A Mcpherson strut compressor will not work in this application. You can also go to mercedesshop and rent the correct one. I've seen other people use the auto parts store rental compressors but I don't think those would work as fast. This is what I have
http://zdmak.com/wbstore/images/merc...ing-toolss.jpg
For anyone contemplating taking your springs out yourselves - be comfortable with the fact that a compressed spring has the power of a bomb and can go off with disastrous results. Anyone not comfortable using a spring compressor or unbolting major parts of your suspension - I recommend you take your car to a shop to do the work. I have in the past had a spring pop out of a compressor in a loaded state and it punched a hole in the drywall, luckily not myself or the car. I have taken out and reinstalled the springs of every car I have owned in the past 15 years so I'm comfortable with this. If this is your first time, get experienced help or just take it in to someone who has done this before.
The E55 stock springs and aftermarket H&R's are not progressive rate. They are a bear to compress and I recommend using the right tool for the job at all times.
For what it's worth I've already used the compressor I bought to take out the original 4 springs, put in the 4 new ones, and then take out and reinstall the 2 new fronts to adjust the pads. In my mind the cost per use is minimal already and I will likely have to use this compressor again to fine tune the ride height so I don't question the cost of the tool to do the job right, and safely.
http://zdmak.com/wbstore/images/merc...ing-toolss.jpg
For anyone contemplating taking your springs out yourselves - be comfortable with the fact that a compressed spring has the power of a bomb and can go off with disastrous results. Anyone not comfortable using a spring compressor or unbolting major parts of your suspension - I recommend you take your car to a shop to do the work. I have in the past had a spring pop out of a compressor in a loaded state and it punched a hole in the drywall, luckily not myself or the car. I have taken out and reinstalled the springs of every car I have owned in the past 15 years so I'm comfortable with this. If this is your first time, get experienced help or just take it in to someone who has done this before.
The E55 stock springs and aftermarket H&R's are not progressive rate. They are a bear to compress and I recommend using the right tool for the job at all times.
For what it's worth I've already used the compressor I bought to take out the original 4 springs, put in the 4 new ones, and then take out and reinstall the 2 new fronts to adjust the pads. In my mind the cost per use is minimal already and I will likely have to use this compressor again to fine tune the ride height so I don't question the cost of the tool to do the job right, and safely.
Last edited by X55; 08-08-2007 at 06:01 PM.
08-09-2007 | 11:34 AM
#16
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 7
From: Socal
07E63, 12E350, 08997TT, 16SiennaSE
As posted in the other thread, I have the Zdmak W210 compressor which I bought on ebay. A Mcpherson strut compressor will not work in this application. You can also go to mercedesshop and rent the correct one. I've seen other people use the auto parts store rental compressors but I don't think those would work as fast. This is what I have
http://zdmak.com/wbstore/images/merc...ing-toolss.jpg
For anyone contemplating taking your springs out yourselves - be comfortable with the fact that a compressed spring has the power of a bomb and can go off with disastrous results. Anyone not comfortable using a spring compressor or unbolting major parts of your suspension - I recommend you take your car to a shop to do the work. I have in the past had a spring pop out of a compressor in a loaded state and it punched a hole in the drywall, luckily not myself or the car. I have taken out and reinstalled the springs of every car I have owned in the past 15 years so I'm comfortable with this. If this is your first time, get experienced help or just take it in to someone who has done this before.
The E55 stock springs and aftermarket H&R's are not progressive rate. They are a bear to compress and I recommend using the right tool for the job at all times.
For what it's worth I've already used the compressor I bought to take out the original 4 springs, put in the 4 new ones, and then take out and reinstall the 2 new fronts to adjust the pads. In my mind the cost per use is minimal already and I will likely have to use this compressor again to fine tune the ride height so I don't question the cost of the tool to do the job right, and safely.
http://zdmak.com/wbstore/images/merc...ing-toolss.jpg
For anyone contemplating taking your springs out yourselves - be comfortable with the fact that a compressed spring has the power of a bomb and can go off with disastrous results. Anyone not comfortable using a spring compressor or unbolting major parts of your suspension - I recommend you take your car to a shop to do the work. I have in the past had a spring pop out of a compressor in a loaded state and it punched a hole in the drywall, luckily not myself or the car. I have taken out and reinstalled the springs of every car I have owned in the past 15 years so I'm comfortable with this. If this is your first time, get experienced help or just take it in to someone who has done this before.
The E55 stock springs and aftermarket H&R's are not progressive rate. They are a bear to compress and I recommend using the right tool for the job at all times.
For what it's worth I've already used the compressor I bought to take out the original 4 springs, put in the 4 new ones, and then take out and reinstall the 2 new fronts to adjust the pads. In my mind the cost per use is minimal already and I will likely have to use this compressor again to fine tune the ride height so I don't question the cost of the tool to do the job right, and safely.
You think if I replace the the stock pad with #1 pad all around I can drop it by 3/4 to 1"?? That all I want to lower it by and keep the factory ride.
I have a full tank of gas and the front & rear measure 27" from floor to fender arch except the rear driver side is about .5" lower
08-09-2007 | 01:54 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
2001 E55
You think if I replace the the stock pad with #1 pad all around I can drop it by 3/4 to 1"?? That all I want to lower it by and keep the factory ride.
I have a full tank of gas and the front & rear measure 27" from floor to fender arch except the rear driver side is about .5" lower
I have a full tank of gas and the front & rear measure 27" from floor to fender arch except the rear driver side is about .5" lower
08-09-2007 | 04:50 PM
#18
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 149
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From: ipswich / suffolk UK
2002 e55 w211 ....
if this helps as well... each step of spring pads are in 4mm steps.. or you guys it would be 0.157" e.g the difference from 3#pads to 1#pads is 8mm or 0.31"
and this goes for front and rear...
but also if you knew this already forget what i said
and this goes for front and rear...
but also if you knew this already forget what i said
08-10-2007 | 02:17 PM
#19
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,544
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From: SFV, SoCal
'04 Silverado Z71 - sold all my Benzes and need another!
I also just left my stock springs in there and went down to #1 pads. The car actually sits nice on the stock 18" monos but I don't know what it will look like when I get my 19's. I have a set of Eibach springs for V8 that I plan to try out because I had H&R's before and I heard the Eibachs were a bit softer.
I also have the same spring compressor and once you get the hang of it (bit scary at first), the change out becomes quick. Regardless if you're comfortable or not with the spring compressor, always remember to keep all of your body parts and especially your face, away from the top and bottom of the spring and use gloves. Just in case this thing decides to pop out, you will hopefully be able to save a limb or a caved in skull.
I also have the same spring compressor and once you get the hang of it (bit scary at first), the change out becomes quick. Regardless if you're comfortable or not with the spring compressor, always remember to keep all of your body parts and especially your face, away from the top and bottom of the spring and use gloves. Just in case this thing decides to pop out, you will hopefully be able to save a limb or a caved in skull.
08-11-2007 | 10:09 AM
#20
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,856
Likes: 7
From: Socal
07E63, 12E350, 08997TT, 16SiennaSE
I also just left my stock springs in there and went down to #1 pads. The car actually sits nice on the stock 18" monos but I don't know what it will look like when I get my 19's. I have a set of Eibach springs for V8 that I plan to try out because I had H&R's before and I heard the Eibachs were a bit softer.
I also have the same spring compressor and once you get the hang of it (bit scary at first), the change out becomes quick. Regardless if you're comfortable or not with the spring compressor, always remember to keep all of your body parts and especially your face, away from the top and bottom of the spring and use gloves. Just in case this thing decides to pop out, you will hopefully be able to save a limb or a caved in skull.
I also have the same spring compressor and once you get the hang of it (bit scary at first), the change out becomes quick. Regardless if you're comfortable or not with the spring compressor, always remember to keep all of your body parts and especially your face, away from the top and bottom of the spring and use gloves. Just in case this thing decides to pop out, you will hopefully be able to save a limb or a caved in skull.
thanks
08-12-2007 | 12:42 AM
#21
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 5,544
Likes: 1
From: SFV, SoCal
'04 Silverado Z71 - sold all my Benzes and need another!
No, I don't have any side pics but I'll try and take one tomorrow...
08-12-2007 | 01:58 AM
#22
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 19
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From: City of Angels
00 E430 Sport and 97 E320
if its any help i have just installed the H+R springs on standard shocks...... ride is a little firmer and you def feel the bumps more... im running 19's and pads 2# front and 1# which lowers the car 24mm...
car sits level, and no problems as of yet..... i will be looking for shocks at some point, or i may go for coil overs i have not yet decided.....
Im in uk ... and on a euro e55 w210 the pad numbers were 3#front 2#back standard sits very nice with tyre just in line with arch/fender, fronts just tucked under...
car sits level, and no problems as of yet..... i will be looking for shocks at some point, or i may go for coil overs i have not yet decided.....
Im in uk ... and on a euro e55 w210 the pad numbers were 3#front 2#back standard sits very nice with tyre just in line with arch/fender, fronts just tucked under...
Got any pixes you can post? Would appreciate it! Cheers!
08-13-2007 | 10:47 AM
#24
Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 149
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From: ipswich / suffolk UK
2002 e55 w211 ....
18in mono's with 235/40/18's and 265/35/18 - euro spec .. and to add this is my car before i played around with it
this is mine with 19" with 235/35/19's and 265/30/19's lowered with H&R springs and 2# fronts and 1# rear......
08-13-2007 | 12:17 PM
#25
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,856
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From: Socal
07E63, 12E350, 08997TT, 16SiennaSE
[QUOTE=palmer3914;2365852]
this is mine with 19" with 235/35/19's and 265/30/19's lowered with H&R springs and 2# fronts and 1# rear......
QUOTE]
Wow! that too low. I was going go with Pad# 1 front and rear with H&R
Did you get the drop right away or did you have to wait a few week for it to settle??
thanks
this is mine with 19" with 235/35/19's and 265/30/19's lowered with H&R springs and 2# fronts and 1# rear......
QUOTE]
Wow! that too low. I was going go with Pad# 1 front and rear with H&R
Did you get the drop right away or did you have to wait a few week for it to settle??
thanks
