Well I decided to take the family out to the Santa Barbara region for labor day... WOW, already problems... and not just one! Well I have no idea but if someone knows whats wrong can you please let me know so I can get it fixed ASAP... I love her too much.

1st Problem- The car when idle, say I start the car n let her warm up... it rattles n jerks then goes quiet then does the same thing again, this also happens if I pop it into drive and not press the pedal, when I stop at red lights, and when I pop it into reverse and let it reverse without pressing the pedal.

2nd Problem- This one drove me NUTS... Seems like everytime my right-rear tire rotates it makes a sound like there is a piece of paper stuck on it, but I checked many many many times, n nothing was there It sounds like the tire is rubbing something on every full rotation.

3rd Problem- My door sill piece decided to pop out All of a sudden... it left the white round pieces exposed in the door instead of still being attached on the door sill.

4th Problem- The top of my roof has these two long straight, what seems to be "clip on" pieces, coming off. They run from the back of the car to the front near the hood and they are right above where you close the door.

5th Problem (Or Not)- The sunroof seems to rattle when I go over rough roads when it is open... this might be normal I'm guessing.


Well yea, first week... 5 problems.

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

Wow sorry for all of the problems... You didn't notice some of these problems before you purchased it? Be prepared to get raped if you decide to take it to the dealer... I'd suggest you take it to an independent shop to diagnose your problems... goodluck!

 

Problem #1:
Does it happen only when the engine is cold? If so, I think it's quite normal.... mine didn't idle smoothly either for the first 20-30 seconds or so.... and a bunch of members here also experienced the same thing. So I just assume it's normal... BTW, my W211 also does this when the engine is still cold.

If it happens when the engine is hot also, my guess would be MAF or engine mount. MAF would also result in CEL and sluggish performance.

Problem #2:
Does the sound disappear when you press the brakes? If so, it's your brakes.... Otherwise, it may be your bearings.

Problem #3 & #4:
Not sure.... it's cosmetic... could happen to anyone. I know socal was very hot this labor day weekend... so heat could play a big role.

Problem #5:
Mine didn't rattle.... there may be some lose bolts.... did the glass rattle? Or did the inner piece rattle?

 

Info at the link below for problem #5:

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207757

 

on No2, where are the wheel balancing weights fitted and what size are they? May be too large and catching the disc protection back plate at a certain place on every revolution?

 

I'd rather pay a premium for work that is done correctly, with proper parts and training, than subject my car to substandard work and/or knowledge.

 

a smarter guy would have paid $150 for a thorough inspection by a master tech and a bodyshop man BEFORE buying a used E55.

 

It's your car do whatever that you think is best. For me I don't really trust dealers. But I do trust my indepent mechanic that I've known for 12 years

 

Having friends that work for MB, I can assure you that not all MB techs are created equally. Some are complete dumbasses while some are very good at what they do.

If you don't believe me, just ask the W211 guys about thier experience with MB techs on NOTORIOUS MB problems with that engine. (supercharger clutch, intercooler pump, etc.)

 

Damn, this sux. Sorry man. My sunroof does not rattle BTW.

 

Thanks for all the help/condolences guys! I think I fixed the 2nd problem... A PIECE OF THE CHROME WAS PEELING OFF... it was inside the rim, I guess it was rubbing the caliper or something. So I just peeled it off, as for problem #1... today it didn't jerk or rattle so much... just a little. I definitely have to go get it checked out. If the Engine Mounts wear out... will the check engine light come on? Cuz I know if it's my MAF, the light will come on. As for problem #5... thanks for the link Ed Austin! Appreciate it alot! You guys been such a great help... haha.

PS. Another problem was added on today, my smartkey batteries are low... HAHA. Well I knew the car was going to have problems, but I'm glad I can fix them early and get it over with ... I love her too much.

 

Perhaps if someone can provide the logic behind replacing the engine mount
will solve this problem. I've read this a while back (can't find it now) and
somehow, it confuses me as to what the relationship is between
the engine mount and idling.

My car's former owner told me that she had the engine mounts replaced
last May (I have the recpt for this) to solve an engine oil leak problem
which is pretty close to where the engine mount is, but did not mention
anything about engine idle problem.

thank you in advance.

 

I'm not an expert... but this is my best educated guess :

Engine mounts will not cause CEL.

ob1:
This is my logic. The engine should have some vibrations when being turned on... idle or not. The engine mount should reduce the vibrations transmitted to other areas.

The engine would even wobble when the RPM changes and during the gear change. The engine mount should also hold the engine steady so the wobble could not be felt.

I think the engine mount is also designed to level the engine body. So if one of them is gone, the engine may be tilted.

 

This is just a guess but I would think the specific elasticity of the motor was chosen to offset the harmonic of the motor. There are fewer cylinder firings at idle so the harmonic is the lowest frequency which would have the most force (like a subwoofer). Changes in the elasticity of the motor mount from deterioration or damage (oil contamination) and the mount may no longer be "in tune" to cancel out the engine vibration. This is purely a speculative guess.