hi guys! ill be dynoing the car this week just want to make sure i got everything ready so heres my DYNO TO DO LIST

NEW OIL CHANGE: ENGINE+ TRANNY
GOING TO REMOVE THE PLUG ON THE ESP/ABS BOX
SOFT RESET: WILL THIS HELP?
DYNO ON 4TH GEAR
PUT THE SHIFTER LEVER ON
DO WE HAVE TO PRESS THE PEDAL UP TO THE KICKDOWN BUTTON?
3700RPM THEN FULL WOT?

ill be dynoing the car before getting it retuned by a friend so we can see the gains with the new tune. thanks

 

Good luck with the Dyno!

 

NEW OIL CHANGE: ENGINE+ TRANNY - New oil but I don't see the tranny being nessecary
GOING TO REMOVE THE PLUG ON THE ESP/ABS BOX - I really don't beleive you will see any lossnor gain.
SOFT RESET: WILL THIS HELP? I would not recomend doing this as it will take some time for your car to re-adapt the best tune
DYNO ON 4TH GEAR - This will be fine
PUT THE SHIFTER LEVER ON - I don't know what you mean by on.
DO WE HAVE TO PRESS THE PEDAL UP TO THE KICKDOWN BUTTON?
3700RPM THEN FULL WOT? While in 4th gear they will tell you accelarate and you will just push the pedal to the floor and go thru 4th gear to redline.

Hope this helps maybe some others can chime in with there 2cents

ill be dynoing the car before getting it retuned by a friend so we can see the gains with the new tune. thanks

 

Removing the ESP/ABS is not about loss or gain.. it is about turning off the traction control so the car doesn't go crazy on the dyno trying to apply the brakes.

Soft reset then 20 min of aggressive driving will actually help b/c it makes sure the most aggressive settings are used.

Its much easier to dyno the car in 3rd on the older 722.6s, I know its not the ideal gear but you can start the car much sooner (sometimes as early as 3000-3500). But again its up to you, 4th gear the car will want to downshift alot. Also, some dynos force you to use lower gears since there are MPH limits on certain dynos as well.

 

You should do a dyno with your stock airbox vs the Renntech one like I did...

 

Sorry, I read this to fast about unplugging the ESP/ABS. I though he was referrinf to the MAF sensor on the intake.

 

sinister: sorry what i mean is put the shift lver on 4th GEAR? thanks

 

yes make sure you do dynos w/ and w/o the renntech airbox. reset the computer after each run and please post the dyno sheets.

it should be a quick swap and could give us a clue on what kind of gains are possible from this mod alone.

 

ill try to do it. il give you guys an update!

 

update guys! i dynoed the car today around 3pm in the afternoon with 37 degree celsius temp on the day i got 291.66whp and 301.97wtq on a dynojet we couldnt get reading below 4000rpm and the run was on 3rd gear we cant get it run on 4th gear it keeps on downshifting my car is a 99 model e55 there was one dyno run on a stock e55 that got 270whp on the same dyno our dyno here in philipines reads lower than is US. like 20whp lower.. they say is due to climate, humidity and calibration of the dyno.

my specs:

kleemann headers
twin 2.5 inch piping
1st and 2nd cat delete
x pipe
renntech airbox
sprintbooster
kleemann ecu
twin 2.5 inch race reso

the tuner said i was running rich on te kleeman ecu so were going to re tune the car ill get it dynod again next week after the tune . also do you think i oversized the pipings? should i bring it back to 2.25 inch? then 2.5 inch X pipe with out reso then ill move the X pipe closer to the engine?? what do you guys think? thanks

 

the dyno was alos a bit erratic on the top. the tuner said i myt need to replce my plug wires and plugs since its a ten year old car already.ill try to scan the dyno sheet once i get it back i left it with the tuner so he can figure out the tune. it will be tuned via upsolute performance

 

Hello Pinoy,

Did you disconnect the ABS/ESP sensor behind the drivers side headlight when you did the dyno?

I told you 4th gear would be almost impossible to do, 3rd gear is much easier on our cars and the HP results are almost exactly the same so for the purposes of measuring power it will suffice even though technically its not 1:1.

Your numbers are low for sure. It may indicate your ECU maybe pulling timing due to improper tune for your specific setup. That may also explain the breaking up on the top end. 291HP = 354 crank on dyno jet which is low for the mods listed. Also your TQ numbers are low b/c of the 4000+ rpm, you couldn't get into peak torque. If you get the crank pulley it will be much easier to start at lower rpm (due to increase in low end to mid range torque). Typically you can start anywhere between 3000-3500 in 3rd gear (usually by 3350rpm you can go WOT in 3rd on dyno and it will hold gear with that setup).

Another issue to consider, you may be experiencing torque loss due to the larger 2.5" dual exhausts and no cats, your back pressure is extremely low which may be hurting your torque numbers as well (this may also explain why the tranny keeps wanting to downshift b/c there isn't enough low end torque to power it in the current gear). Our transmissions & ECUs are much smarter than most people realize, it is actually measuring the output from the engine and adjusts the shifts accordingly, so if you are low on torque, it will always downshift to lower gear. The more torque you have, the less tendency it will have to downshift. As an example, I can go WOT in 3rd as low as 2000-2500rpm (minus kick down pedal of course) depending on conditions and it will hold the gear and accelerate due to the abundance of low end to mid range torque.

You may want to do a B&G full injector cleaning service you can easily pick up alot of lost HP this way as well if you have really dirty fuel system (it will also clean up the combustion cylinder as well). This could potentially be another reason you are breaking up top. Although ignition system is usually blamed for poor spark, honestly with Coil-on-dual plugs per cylinder its usually not ignition that is the problem with these AMG motors. Its more than likely a air/fuel issue (often due to improper tune for any given specific setup).

The closest you can really put the X-pipe to the headers is where the 2nd cats are and thats only 3 feet in front of the stock resonator location which honestly probably won't make a huge difference. You may see a gain of 1-3HP more (if that), but don't expect anything huge.

Hope that helps,
~AMS~

 

yup we did it bro. what do you think of the power ? thanks

 

Ok, then its not ESP/ABS related, those numbers are accurate based on the conditions. You really need to do a full custom tune since you are running no cats (which very few people run such a setup). Removing that much back pressure completely changes the air/fuel dynamics therefore you need to custom tune for the drastically new setup (same is true of X-pipe & etc).

You may simply be pushing too much air up on the top end and the ECU is pulling timing to full retard in order to prevent detonation with so much air flow at higher rpms. BTW, I have seen cars dyno 20-30HP less just from a bad tune, so keep that in mind. Our ECUs are VERY sensitive to proper tuning due to their high adaptability.

Hope that helps.

 

thanks ams! so you think ny bring my piping back to 2.25 will give more power? thanks

 

can i do 2.25 piping with 2.5 X pipe and 2.5 twin resonator? will it help? where can i get the injector clean? thanks

 

i would put the 2nd cats back in and retest. i'm sure your kleeman tune is not made for a catless setup unless you specifically asked for a custom tune designed for a such a setup. if it's an off the shelf software it is unlikely that this is the case.

you should of done a stock baseline for a proper comparison. i'm willing to bet that all your mods combined gave you less than 10whp, which is why i've always said that these motors are very well tuned from the factory and except for the headers which probably help by removing the pre cats and actually gain you a few whp, you're only getting increased noise, not necessarily increased performance.

the only way to make significantly more power out of a N/A AMG motor is either F/I or agressive cams+headers+custom tuning(and even this would probably cost $$$$ and gain 30-40whp at best).

sorry guys but claims of 40-50 whp gains from a crank pulley, headers and x-pipe are just not going to happen on the N/A 55 motor, no matter what some vendors are going to tell you.

 

i guess your correct i gained about 21whp from the stock e55. i have comfird it by asking reptable tuners here in my country that the dynojet we have here really reads lwer compared with dynos in US also we have lower grade fuel, hotter and humid climate. we are off by about 20-30whp comapred to US

the TUNE i got is an off the shelf tune. im getting it re tuned agained to match my engine set up. thanks im targetting to get only 310-320whp on our dyno here

do you think theres an effect on the increase of pipe size on my exhaust stock is 2.25 i made it 2.5 inch but the shop said thats the outer size of pipe the inner coul g0 from 2.3-2.4inch

also after the tune im going to let it addapt firts to see if there a changes on the power if there are none im going to put back my stock exhat piping but install the race reso nd X pipe on it. thanks

 

Lawrence, this is not correct.

The reason he is killing is power is he took too much out and changed too much, these engines need back pressure to function properly, if you take that out you could easily kill HP especially with larger piping which is why I always recommend to our customers never to touch the stock exhaust piping. With headers, pulley & cats you can easily get 40 crank HP, and with a few additional mods on top of that you can get to the 50HP mark without doing cams & etc. In addition, the Kleemann headers are not the best design. Their primaries are way too small (only 1.5" tri-Y) and they do very little to low end / mid range.

A common trend that seems to be appearing is most software tunes are actually doing more harm than good and as a result the ECU can easily kill power because of an improper tune. You are better off sticking with stock software and doing all the hardware modifications than vice versa.

 

THE

 

the ecu tune will be finish by tomorw and will let it adapt for about a week then check if anything will do good. but we have back up plans already. if it stll feels short on TQ we will put back the stock exhaust piping and install an X pipe and race reso on the stock piping.

 

the kleemann header helps alot by bringing the power UP TOP just where i want it. im more of a fast highway runner than street stop and go run.

 

one more thing is that i would wanna ask ABALONE ON hes set up if he gained TQ and HP or NOT cause he also has a 2.5inch piping on hes e55 when it was still NA. still i hope its on the tune

there was one e46 m3 fully built with groupe m exhaust, intake, ecu etc.. that dynoed 270whp at 225tq on the dyno. si i guess our dynojet reads really low. an E39 M5 with full exhaust, intake ECU etc.. dynoed only 315whp and 341tq

 

ay dyno sheet?

 

Dynojet 248C Baseline 302whp/311Tq. Bone stock!