getting headgasket done on my e55 - any extras i should do?
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 9
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E55 AMG (w210)
getting headgasket done on my e55 - any extras i should do?
so i think i have a really bad head gasket leak..
i originally thought it was something outside of the engine but now i just found a bunch of gunk in the oil. all the extra coolant i was adding was getting burned off while i was actively driving the car, and now that it has sat for a while its really apparent in the oil.
anyways, paying someone to do it, but while the engine is opened i have a chance to upgrade or throw in additional things while only having to pay for the part. what are some things i can do that make sense if im already cracking the motor apart?
btw this is a 100% stock E55.. never been modded before
i originally thought it was something outside of the engine but now i just found a bunch of gunk in the oil. all the extra coolant i was adding was getting burned off while i was actively driving the car, and now that it has sat for a while its really apparent in the oil.
anyways, paying someone to do it, but while the engine is opened i have a chance to upgrade or throw in additional things while only having to pay for the part. what are some things i can do that make sense if im already cracking the motor apart?
btw this is a 100% stock E55.. never been modded before
Last edited by rocketflyer; May 19, 2011 at 04:30 PM. Reason: btw this is a 100% stock E55.. never been modded before
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: SF Bay Area
'94 E500 & '94 E320 Coupe
Hi
What year W210 e55?
How many miles on the motor?
Service history?
Was engine burning oil between oil changes?
Any tapping noise from the engine at first start up cold?
Headgasket failing sounds rare for this motor, wondering what conditions were the cause of the failure?
At minimum, internally I would check timing chain stretch, chain tensioner(s), condition of the head-valves-passages ie. warped head, condition of the cylinder walls, water pump, oil pump, misc gaskets-hoses-and all places where the oil and water mixed where only oil is supposed to be...
If service history is not up to date, perhaps this is a good time to bring it up to date: engine & trans mounts, suspension bushings, address any leaks...
Hope this helps, let us know what your tech advises needs to be done.
What year W210 e55?
How many miles on the motor?
Service history?
Was engine burning oil between oil changes?
Any tapping noise from the engine at first start up cold?
Headgasket failing sounds rare for this motor, wondering what conditions were the cause of the failure?
At minimum, internally I would check timing chain stretch, chain tensioner(s), condition of the head-valves-passages ie. warped head, condition of the cylinder walls, water pump, oil pump, misc gaskets-hoses-and all places where the oil and water mixed where only oil is supposed to be...
If service history is not up to date, perhaps this is a good time to bring it up to date: engine & trans mounts, suspension bushings, address any leaks...
Hope this helps, let us know what your tech advises needs to be done.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 312
Likes: 8
From: South, FL
2002 E55 AMG Obsidian Black with Charcoal
I hope that it is just what you suspect, the head gasket. Have the mechanic check for a cracked cylinder head. It is not very common, but it could happen. Have him pressure check it. Has the engine overheated? Check for warped head.
Maybe have the mechanic dissasemble the head(s). Take a look at the valves, seats, seals, springs, etc. Timing belt guides... I'm sure that I missed somethings.
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Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 209
Likes: 8
From: San Diego, Cali
AMG 2002 E55, 1997 E320
Hi
What year W210 e55?
How many miles on the motor?
Service history?
Was engine burning oil between oil changes?
Any tapping noise from the engine at first start up cold?
Headgasket failing sounds rare for this motor, wondering what conditions were the cause of the failure?
At minimum, internally I would check timing chain stretch, chain tensioner(s), condition of the head-valves-passages ie. warped head, condition of the cylinder walls, water pump, oil pump, misc gaskets-hoses-and all places where the oil and water mixed where only oil is supposed to be...
If service history is not up to date, perhaps this is a good time to bring it up to date: engine & trans mounts, suspension bushings, address any leaks...
Hope this helps, let us know what your tech advises needs to be done.
What year W210 e55?
How many miles on the motor?
Service history?
Was engine burning oil between oil changes?
Any tapping noise from the engine at first start up cold?
Headgasket failing sounds rare for this motor, wondering what conditions were the cause of the failure?
At minimum, internally I would check timing chain stretch, chain tensioner(s), condition of the head-valves-passages ie. warped head, condition of the cylinder walls, water pump, oil pump, misc gaskets-hoses-and all places where the oil and water mixed where only oil is supposed to be...
If service history is not up to date, perhaps this is a good time to bring it up to date: engine & trans mounts, suspension bushings, address any leaks...
Hope this helps, let us know what your tech advises needs to be done.
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Super Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 4
From: Central Connecticut
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
E55 AMG (w210)
Hi
What year W210 e55?
How many miles on the motor?
Service history?
Was engine burning oil between oil changes?
Any tapping noise from the engine at first start up cold?
Headgasket failing sounds rare for this motor, wondering what conditions were the cause of the failure?
At minimum, internally I would check timing chain stretch, chain tensioner(s), condition of the head-valves-passages ie. warped head, condition of the cylinder walls, water pump, oil pump, misc gaskets-hoses-and all places where the oil and water mixed where only oil is supposed to be...
If service history is not up to date, perhaps this is a good time to bring it up to date: engine & trans mounts, suspension bushings, address any leaks...
Hope this helps, let us know what your tech advises needs to be done.
What year W210 e55?
How many miles on the motor?
Service history?
Was engine burning oil between oil changes?
Any tapping noise from the engine at first start up cold?
Headgasket failing sounds rare for this motor, wondering what conditions were the cause of the failure?
At minimum, internally I would check timing chain stretch, chain tensioner(s), condition of the head-valves-passages ie. warped head, condition of the cylinder walls, water pump, oil pump, misc gaskets-hoses-and all places where the oil and water mixed where only oil is supposed to be...
If service history is not up to date, perhaps this is a good time to bring it up to date: engine & trans mounts, suspension bushings, address any leaks...
Hope this helps, let us know what your tech advises needs to be done.
they just found that the timing chain is stretched... now repairs cost is doubling they are saying..
i bought the car a year ago and it always had a ticking sound.. ive only had the car for 10k miles so i was never really sure what it was.. i've been chasing the problem and always suspected something was wrong with it but couldnt figure it out.. it had a tapping noise but i thought it was coming from the cats being too old
car hasnt overheated, but the temps did hit pretty high at one point cause there was no coolant.. it almost hit the red mark on the temp gauge but i immediately pulled over on the highway and let it cool for about 10-15 mins.. then drove it home.. not sure if this is enough temp to warp the motor
car has about 127k miles on it now.. i bought it at 114k.. always leaked coolant since i originally bought it.
not really sure what to do now.. would it be better to buy a replacement engine?
Last edited by rocketflyer; May 23, 2011 at 04:53 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: SF Bay Area
'94 E500 & '94 E320 Coupe
Thanks for the update and sharing the history of the car. Sorry to hear about the timing chain stretch. With such low miles, the headgasket failure is not common to the W210 E55. Most E55's of this era had adequate maintenance in their early lives, as they were sold with factory maintenance included. I have heard that "some" 113.980 AMG motors happen to have a cold start up ticking that have not affected performance or longevity.
Would you like to keep the car? If so, exploring the used E55 motor swap may be the most cost effective remedy (if that incoming motor is in acceptable shape).
Rebuilding the original motor is the other option. Depending on parts needed and their costs, this repair may range in cost from a few thousand $ to several $ thousand. If you choose this route, opening the motor & inspecting/ spec'ing worn parts / compression check/ cylinder walls/ bearings/ will reveal exactly what parts will be needed to bring the motor back to life- can't really guess what will be needed without opening it up. This route will likely need an open checkbook $ to complete the rebuild.
What is the condition of the rest of the mechanicals? ie transmission, brakes, rear end, suspension, electrical? This (+/-) wear condition of any or all of these systems may also play a factor in your decision.
Keep up updated, the board is a great resource.
Would you like to keep the car? If so, exploring the used E55 motor swap may be the most cost effective remedy (if that incoming motor is in acceptable shape).
Rebuilding the original motor is the other option. Depending on parts needed and their costs, this repair may range in cost from a few thousand $ to several $ thousand. If you choose this route, opening the motor & inspecting/ spec'ing worn parts / compression check/ cylinder walls/ bearings/ will reveal exactly what parts will be needed to bring the motor back to life- can't really guess what will be needed without opening it up. This route will likely need an open checkbook $ to complete the rebuild.
What is the condition of the rest of the mechanicals? ie transmission, brakes, rear end, suspension, electrical? This (+/-) wear condition of any or all of these systems may also play a factor in your decision.
Keep up updated, the board is a great resource.
Last edited by -fad; May 24, 2011 at 12:23 PM. Reason: adding detail
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 4
From: Central Connecticut
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
I think you should check the engine out on ebay and see what the condition or warranty they have. Also, its ebay and you can always dispute with them and paypal. Also, find out how much to swap the engine vs fixing the engine as it is. If the difference is really not that much, I would prefer, in my opinion to fix it. As you will be getting new parts under warranty and a better gauge of the car as you have driven it yourself vs trying your luck on a used engine...having no history of the thing
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,280
Likes: 4
From: Bostonian Ma
2012 CLS63 AMG
Thanks for the update and sharing the history of the car. Sorry to hear about the timing chain stretch. With such low miles, the headgasket failure is not common to the W210 E55. Most E55's of this era had adequate maintenance in their early lives, as they were sold with factory maintenance included. I have heard that "some" 113.980 AMG motors happen to have a cold start up ticking that have not affected performance or longevity.
Would you like to keep the car? If so, exploring the used E55 motor swap may be the most cost effective remedy (if that incoming motor is in acceptable shape).
Rebuilding the original motor is the other option. Depending on parts needed and their costs, this repair may range in cost from a few thousand $ to several $ thousand. If you choose this route, opening the motor & inspecting/ spec'ing worn parts / compression check/ cylinder walls/ bearings/ will reveal exactly what parts will be needed to bring the motor back to life- can't really guess what will be needed without opening it up. This route will likely need an open checkbook $ to complete the rebuild.
What is the condition of the rest of the mechanicals? ie transmission, brakes, rear end, suspension, electrical? This (+/-) wear condition of any or all of these systems may also play a factor in your decision.
Keep up updated, the board is a great resource.
Would you like to keep the car? If so, exploring the used E55 motor swap may be the most cost effective remedy (if that incoming motor is in acceptable shape).
Rebuilding the original motor is the other option. Depending on parts needed and their costs, this repair may range in cost from a few thousand $ to several $ thousand. If you choose this route, opening the motor & inspecting/ spec'ing worn parts / compression check/ cylinder walls/ bearings/ will reveal exactly what parts will be needed to bring the motor back to life- can't really guess what will be needed without opening it up. This route will likely need an open checkbook $ to complete the rebuild.
What is the condition of the rest of the mechanicals? ie transmission, brakes, rear end, suspension, electrical? This (+/-) wear condition of any or all of these systems may also play a factor in your decision.
Keep up updated, the board is a great resource.
Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: PA
2002 E55
car hasnt overheated, but the temps did hit pretty high at one point cause there was no coolant.. it almost hit the red mark on the temp gauge but i immediately pulled over on the highway and let it cool for about 10-15 mins.. then drove it home.. not sure if this is enough temp to warp the motor
car has about 127k miles on it now.. i bought it at 114k.. always leaked coolant since i originally bought it.
If you're in traffic or in a southern state during the summer months, the gauge can be at about 10 o'clock (I forget the degrees of this level).
If you're loosing that much coolant, you need to check on the main problematic area. This would be at the bottom left side of the radiator, viewed from sitting in the driver's seat. You're looking for the rubber hose coming out of the radiator. I'm not sure it if can be seen from the car on the ground. It is easiest to view it on a lift. Drips/stains on the inside of the plastic under-shield will help with identifying if this is where your coolant issue is coming from.
I would rethink the engine swap/rebuilt.
Fix all the bolt-ons and call it a day.
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 4
From: Central Connecticut
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
water wetter from redline
The temp of the engine does run warm vs other cars, or maybe it is how the gauge is calibrated vs others. I've read a thread here that talks about it.
If you're in traffic or in a southern state during the summer months, the gauge can be at about 10 o'clock (I forget the degrees of this level).
If you're loosing that much coolant, you need to check on the main problematic area. This would be at the bottom left side of the radiator, viewed from sitting in the driver's seat. You're looking for the rubber hose coming out of the radiator. I'm not sure it if can be seen from the car on the ground. It is easiest to view it on a lift. Drips/stains on the inside of the plastic under-shield will help with identifying if this is where your coolant issue is coming from.
I would rethink the engine swap/rebuilt.
Fix all the bolt-ons and call it a day.
If you're in traffic or in a southern state during the summer months, the gauge can be at about 10 o'clock (I forget the degrees of this level).
If you're loosing that much coolant, you need to check on the main problematic area. This would be at the bottom left side of the radiator, viewed from sitting in the driver's seat. You're looking for the rubber hose coming out of the radiator. I'm not sure it if can be seen from the car on the ground. It is easiest to view it on a lift. Drips/stains on the inside of the plastic under-shield will help with identifying if this is where your coolant issue is coming from.
I would rethink the engine swap/rebuilt.
Fix all the bolt-ons and call it a day.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
E55 AMG (w210)
thanks for all the advice..
i'm leaning towards a motorswap now.. im finding motors for around 3500.
I really do want to open it up and see what's wrong but i don't want it to be a can of worms once the motor is apart.. feels like theres too much of a risk of spending lots of $$, whereas the motor swap is more predictable.
i'm leaning towards a motorswap now.. im finding motors for around 3500.
I really do want to open it up and see what's wrong but i don't want it to be a can of worms once the motor is apart.. feels like theres too much of a risk of spending lots of $$, whereas the motor swap is more predictable.
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 998
Likes: 4
From: Central Connecticut
86 190D (Exported to the Nerderlands), 87 300TD (Sold), 82 Ford F150 3spd, 99 E300D (RIP), 02 E55
thanks for all the advice..
i'm leaning towards a motorswap now.. im finding motors for around 3500.
I really do want to open it up and see what's wrong but i don't want it to be a can of worms once the motor is apart.. feels like theres too much of a risk of spending lots of $$, whereas the motor swap is more predictable.
i'm leaning towards a motorswap now.. im finding motors for around 3500.
I really do want to open it up and see what's wrong but i don't want it to be a can of worms once the motor is apart.. feels like theres too much of a risk of spending lots of $$, whereas the motor swap is more predictable.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: SF Bay Area
'94 E500 & '94 E320 Coupe
RE: Water Wetter (WW) Not sure if WW is OK to run with MB coolant, but....
I ran it previously in my '94 E500 (w/ 40% MB coolant/ 60% distilled H20). It helped lower temps just a tad, but not significantly. On heavy 100 degree dry days, in stop and go driving the coolant temps rose to the same degree as without WW.
If your MB cooling system is working as the factory intended, WW is not needed. Best to check to see if all the elements of your cooling system is 100%: Water Pump (+pulley+belt+tensioner), Thermostat, Fan Clutch(+pulley), Coolant and Coolant Mix, Radiator, Hoses, Clamps, Electric Fans (operation and cut in), Overflow Cap, Overflow Bottle, Airflow through the Rad fins (sometimes blocked with debris from years of use), a/c-HVAC system....if any of these items are not operating correctly or not allowing full pressure the cooling system is not operating at peak efficiency.
Currently running fresh 50/50 MB coolant/ distilled H20 in my '01 E55 with new OE thermostat, new OE fan clutch, new OE overflow cap and gauge temp reads a steady 85-90 degrees in the SF Bay Area stop and go with a/c on. As a maintenance check, I verified aux electric fan operation with a/c on.
Hope this helps
I ran it previously in my '94 E500 (w/ 40% MB coolant/ 60% distilled H20). It helped lower temps just a tad, but not significantly. On heavy 100 degree dry days, in stop and go driving the coolant temps rose to the same degree as without WW.
If your MB cooling system is working as the factory intended, WW is not needed. Best to check to see if all the elements of your cooling system is 100%: Water Pump (+pulley+belt+tensioner), Thermostat, Fan Clutch(+pulley), Coolant and Coolant Mix, Radiator, Hoses, Clamps, Electric Fans (operation and cut in), Overflow Cap, Overflow Bottle, Airflow through the Rad fins (sometimes blocked with debris from years of use), a/c-HVAC system....if any of these items are not operating correctly or not allowing full pressure the cooling system is not operating at peak efficiency.
Currently running fresh 50/50 MB coolant/ distilled H20 in my '01 E55 with new OE thermostat, new OE fan clutch, new OE overflow cap and gauge temp reads a steady 85-90 degrees in the SF Bay Area stop and go with a/c on. As a maintenance check, I verified aux electric fan operation with a/c on.
Hope this helps
Last edited by -fad; Jun 2, 2011 at 05:03 PM. Reason: spelling
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: SF Bay Area
'94 E500 & '94 E320 Coupe
If you are doing motor swap, be sure to have the incoming motor checked out or guaranteed if possible: compression check, looking at the plugs, removing oil pan and looking at the bottom end, remove valve covers and review chain/stretch/tensioners/etc.
Even with a swap with a low mileage motor, you may wish to r/r a few things as preventative maintenance for the next 100k miles: h20 pump, oil pump, mono belt+tensioner, valve cover gaskets, plugs and wires...there is not too much luckily as this set up is pretty long lived if maintained.
When your existing motor is removed you can freshen up chassis front end ball joints, bushings, motor mounts, trans mounts...
hope this helps
Even with a swap with a low mileage motor, you may wish to r/r a few things as preventative maintenance for the next 100k miles: h20 pump, oil pump, mono belt+tensioner, valve cover gaskets, plugs and wires...there is not too much luckily as this set up is pretty long lived if maintained.
When your existing motor is removed you can freshen up chassis front end ball joints, bushings, motor mounts, trans mounts...
hope this helps
Last edited by -fad; Jun 2, 2011 at 05:02 PM. Reason: add detail
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 29
From: Sydney, Australia
190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
I don't want t throw a spanner in the works.......but are you sure it's a blown head gasket?
I've actually never seen a blown head gasket on any M112/M113, But I have seen PLENTY of internally leaking oil coolers which will give the same loss of coolant and oil will become contaiminated.
Have you done compression and leak down test? I would definately be doing this first as I have seen M112/M113 engines rebuilt before for nothing other than a leaking oil cooler.
Definately something to consider before you open your wallet!
I've actually never seen a blown head gasket on any M112/M113, But I have seen PLENTY of internally leaking oil coolers which will give the same loss of coolant and oil will become contaiminated.
Have you done compression and leak down test? I would definately be doing this first as I have seen M112/M113 engines rebuilt before for nothing other than a leaking oil cooler.
Definately something to consider before you open your wallet!
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: SF Bay Area
'94 E500 & '94 E320 Coupe
Thanks Ausmbtech for sharing your experience- wondering also?
-What appox. mileage do the M113 oil coolers seem to be failing?
-Any other high mileage M113 repairs seem to be popping up regularly?
-What's the highest mileage M113 you've seen?
-Had any M113 motors needing rebuilding (upper/lower)?
-Timing stretch common?
Thanks!
-What appox. mileage do the M113 oil coolers seem to be failing?
-Any other high mileage M113 repairs seem to be popping up regularly?
-What's the highest mileage M113 you've seen?
-Had any M113 motors needing rebuilding (upper/lower)?
-Timing stretch common?
Thanks!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 29
From: Sydney, Australia
190D 2.5 (x2), 190E 2.6, W202 C240,W202 C43 (C55), W210 E55, W212 E250CDI
There doesn't seem to be a common milage that the oil coolers fail, they are the same coolers for m112 2.4l through to M113 5.4L's. no real rhyme or reason, but alomost all have been 8yrs or older unlike M271's coolers which I've seen fail whilst still under warranty.
I've seen M113's with 500k kms (350k mi's), if they have good maintainence then they really don't have many issues.
M112/M113's are very tough eninges, they just need good quality oil and frequent changes and they seem to last ages.
I've seen very very few chain problems, noisy but never a failure, but they are very obvious if they have a problem.
Very unusual to have any M112/M113 out of the car for any rebuilding, most common would be piston rings but it's usually due to poor service history
I've seen M113's with 500k kms (350k mi's), if they have good maintainence then they really don't have many issues.
M112/M113's are very tough eninges, they just need good quality oil and frequent changes and they seem to last ages.
I've seen very very few chain problems, noisy but never a failure, but they are very obvious if they have a problem.
Very unusual to have any M112/M113 out of the car for any rebuilding, most common would be piston rings but it's usually due to poor service history
