W210 AMG Discuss the W210 AMG's such as the E50, E55, and E60

Maintenance and rear main seal questions

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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 08:49 PM
  #1  
w210e55amg's Avatar
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From: RI
w210 e55 AMG
Maintenance and rear main seal questions

So i'm at 92,000 miles and i'm going to do a complete service check and along with anything that is out of spec i'm definitely going to replace:
air filters
engine oil and filter
valve cover gaskets (originals weep)
transmission fluid and filter
differential fluid change
fuel filter
spark plugs
cabin air filters
Passenger side thrust arm (bushing is all worn out)
front struts (leaking oil, and now making noise)
coolant flush
thermostat
expansion tank cap
brake flush with ate super blue (inspect rotors and pads)
belt
idler
tensioner
power steering flush
power steering resivoir seal (original weeps)


Now I do have a very slow rear main seal leak that i'm guessing happened due to the cold weather (live in RI and it's around 20 degrees). Now I have alldata and a decent supply of tools to get the job done it seems pretty straight foreward just need to take my time, but my only issue is that it says to re-seal the engine cover and then install seal with special tool 111 589 08 43 00 which costs around $700.00!!! Now with everything that I replace I do whatever it takes to get the job done perfectly! but is this tool an absolute necessity? if I take my time and make sure the seal is in straight will it be fine for another 90,000 miles?

Next with all of the fluid and filter changes ECStuning has some pretty good package deals on quality fluids and filters. And autohausaz and partsgeek have decent prices on oem hard parts. But if anyone knows of a better place to go it would be greatly appreciated!

And finally any other parts to replace as just a precaution? any of the parts on my list overkill? and should I go with all mercedes benz oem parts?

thanks any input is appreciated!
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Old Jan 21, 2013 | 11:27 PM
  #2  
Nocturnal-G's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: LA, CA
2002 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by w210e55amg
So i'm at 92,000 miles and i'm going to do a complete service check and along with anything that is out of spec i'm definitely going to replace:
air filters - use Mann
engine oil and filter
valve cover gaskets (originals weep) - I believe Victor Reinz is OEM... and I also believe you do NOT have to use sealant per MB.
transmission fluid and filter - use MB fluid and OEM filter.
differential fluid change - use MB fluid as well.
fuel filter - Bosch or Mann should be fine.
spark plugs - NGK spark plugs... they are the OEM in our cars. Our cars came with NGK Platinum plugs, I replaced with NGK Iridium and have been happy ever since. Stay away from multi-electrode plugs.
cabin air filters - Mann.
Passenger side thrust arm (bushing is all worn out) - not sure who OEM is, but for suspension related parts... I use Lemfoerder.
front struts (leaking oil, and now making noise) - Bilstein is OEM, others have used Koni FSD's with good results. Koni FSD is more comfort-oriented, Bilstein HD's are stiff and firm. When replacing, install the front's as the rears and the rears as the fronts. I'm sure Bilstein hasn't corrected the issue yet. When you pull the shocks out, you'll see what I'm talking about.
coolant flush - Zerex G-05 fluid or MB fluid that is already mixed with distilled water. Distilled water only.
thermostat - never replaced mine. Use OEM, believe it's BEHR.
expansion tank cap - never replaced mine. MB only.
brake flush with ate super blue (inspect rotors and pads)
belt - I used ContiTech, you should be fine with Gates as well.
idler - use INA. Torque to 15 lbs.
tensioner - use Litens.
power steering flush - use Pentosin CHF11S
power steering resivoir seal (original weeps) - not sure who OEM is.


Now I do have a very slow rear main seal leak that i'm guessing happened due to the cold weather (live in RI and it's around 20 degrees). Now I have alldata and a decent supply of tools to get the job done it seems pretty straight foreward just need to take my time, but my only issue is that it says to re-seal the engine cover and then install seal with special tool 111 589 08 43 00 which costs around $700.00!!! Now with everything that I replace I do whatever it takes to get the job done perfectly! but is this tool an absolute necessity? if I take my time and make sure the seal is in straight will it be fine for another 90,000 miles?

I suggest checking if OTC, AST, or another company makes the tool... I'm sure it is much cheaper. Replace the aluminum backing plate as well when changing the seal... I would use the tool if I were you, some people might disagree but better than having to do the job twice. Few questions, what kind of oil are you using? And is the leak changing speed at all? I leave mine alone since it's not bad at all. If you need the MB PDF for the DIY, let me know.

You will eventually need to change it though.


Next with all of the fluid and filter changes ECStuning has some pretty good package deals on quality fluids and filters. And autohausaz and partsgeek have decent prices on oem hard parts. But if anyone knows of a better place to go it would be greatly appreciated!

I shop with AutoHausAZ, been great so far.

And finally any other parts to replace as just a precaution? any of the parts on my list overkill? and should I go with all mercedes benz oem parts?

Off the top of my head, can't think of anything else. Have you ever cleaned or replaced the MAF? Buy a CPS sensor and keep it in the car... at the mileage you are at, you'll probably need it soon.

thanks any input is appreciated!
Here you go!
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Old Jan 23, 2013 | 09:53 PM
  #3  
w210e55amg's Avatar
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From: RI
w210 e55 AMG
thanks for the quick reply!

And I did a little searching with both of the companies you mentioned but OTC only has a universal kit for $100 and i'm not even sure if it includes the right size! I'll have to measure the seal once it comes in!

And right now it has mobil 1 0w 40, I bought it that way I figured maybe if I use 5w 40 it might slow it down but if i'm emptying it i might as well get the rear main done! and i'm not to comfortable with running the oil filter for 10,000 miles would it be ok if I just did a filter change at 5,000 and kept the same oil? what do you do?

And good call on cleaning the MAF, I have some CRC MAF cleaner. I know not to touch the element and let it air dry, but will that cleaner be fine for the mercedes MAF?

Now i'm guessing by installing the struts the other way you mean turning them 180 degrees? and partsgeek has two options for bilsteins W0133-1608647 for $80.00
W0133-1910750 for $88.00
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Old Jan 25, 2013 | 09:53 AM
  #4  
Nocturnal-G's Avatar
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From: LA, CA
2002 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by w210e55amg
thanks for the quick reply!

And I did a little searching with both of the companies you mentioned but OTC only has a universal kit for $100 and i'm not even sure if it includes the right size! I'll have to measure the seal once it comes in!

Measure the seal, I'm sure someone makes the tool... are you replacing the aluminum backing plate as well?

And right now it has mobil 1 0w 40, I bought it that way I figured maybe if I use 5w 40 it might slow it down but if i'm emptying it i might as well get the rear main done! and i'm not to comfortable with running the oil filter for 10,000 miles would it be ok if I just did a filter change at 5,000 and kept the same oil? what do you do?

I change my oil every 6-8k miles... I don't replace the filter, I use the Mann extended service filters so I'm sure it's fine. I suggest using 5w40, that's per AMG's recommended oil for all AMG engines as of the past year or two.

And good call on cleaning the MAF, I have some CRC MAF cleaner. I know not to touch the element and let it air dry, but will that cleaner be fine for the mercedes MAF?

I clean my MAF just about every oil change... won't do any harm... then again won't drastically increase your mileage... it will help prolong the life of the sensor though! I'm at 103k and still haven't had to replace mine.

Now i'm guessing by installing the struts the other way you mean turning them 180 degrees? and partsgeek has two options for bilsteins W0133-1608647 for $80.00
W0133-1910750 for $88.00

The part numbers I ordered last year were... W0133-1910430 &
W0133-1910750...

The part number ending in 750 went in the rear and part number 430 went in the front... complete opposite of what Bilstein says. I believe the part number you have ending in 647 is the B8 shock, which would be ideal for lowering springs.

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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 12:30 AM
  #5  
BlackOmega's Avatar
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From: Michigan, USA
2000 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by w210e55amg
So i'm at 92,000 miles and i'm going to do a complete service check and along with anything that is out of spec i'm definitely going to replace:
air filters
engine oil and filter
valve cover gaskets (originals weep)
transmission fluid and filter
differential fluid change
fuel filter
spark plugs
cabin air filters
Passenger side thrust arm (bushing is all worn out)
front struts (leaking oil, and now making noise)
coolant flush
thermostat
expansion tank cap
brake flush with ate super blue (inspect rotors and pads)
belt
idler
tensioner
power steering flush
power steering reservoir seal (original weeps)
A few things on your list I believe to be overkill and should only be replaced if bad.
Here's the parts that I wouldn't replace unless bad:
Thermostat
Serpentine belt
Idler
Tensioner

Simply inspect the belt for cracks, tears, threads hanging out. If those conditions are present then replace. With the belt removed, check the idler bearings. If they don't feel rough and it spins freely, leave it alone.
Tensioner pretty much the same. Check for worn bearings. The spring is fairly easy to check. With the car running if it doesn't bounce all over the place and make a bunch of noise, it's fine.

Also note, if you're replacing fluids such as the trans, power steering, brake fluid, DO NOT add any conditioners or any other additives. They will create more problems than they say they'll prevent. Especially in the trans.
NOTE: The rear end may need a friction modifier additive. Not sure on this car since I've never done it.

However, if you're changing the trans fluid, you may want to pick up this handy tool. It's a trans dipstick. Note it doesn't stay in the vehicle, just use it to check it then set aside then insert the service plug.
It's dorman part # 917-321. (ebay listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DORMAN-917-3...-/200812846531)

Also note, these cars DO NOT have struts in the front they're shocks all the way around. The shock does not turn. It simply mounts to the shock tower and the lower control arm.
Originally Posted by w210e55amg
Next with all of the fluid and filter changes ECStuning has some pretty good package deals on quality fluids and filters. And autohausaz and partsgeek have decent prices on oem hard parts. But if anyone knows of a better place to go it would be greatly appreciated!
I've heard good things about autohauz mostly. Just double check to make sure that the brand you ordered was the brand you received.
Stay with Lemforder parts if available. They're the OEM for Mercedes. The other slightly cheaper parts are Chinese.
Originally Posted by w210e55amg
And finally any other parts to replace as just a precaution? any of the parts on my list overkill? and should I go with all mercedes benz oem parts?

thanks any input is appreciated!
See above for the overkill part.
Other than that, replace your washer fluid with the orange Rain-X stuff it works great. If the headlights are fogged over, clean them up (the Meguir's kit is ~$25 and you can do several cars with it). Check your tires for wear. Grease the hinges and door checkers with white lithium grease (you can do this with the hood hinges as well).

Also, inspect the car for rust. I heard from a bodyman that the W210's are prone to rusting out. At least here in MI where they salt the bejeezus out of the roads.

Good Luck.
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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 11:08 PM
  #6  
w210e55amg's Avatar
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From: RI
w210 e55 AMG
Nocturnal and black omega i really appreciate your time!
So I think for my next oil change i'm just gonna change it and fill with 5w40 mobil one and a mann filter and deal with the weep when i need to!
Now onto the shocks(thanks for correcting my terminology) my car sits very low in the front (bought it this way so either lowering springs, someone cut the springs, or just really shot shocks) I'll post some pics soon! once i find out i might go with the 647 b8 shock.

Blackomega I really appreciate the ebay posting because I was about to spend $80 on a genuine mercedes dip stick...and I need to just do a quick buffing of the headlights. And I was thinking of treating what little rust i do have with some neutralizer then undercoating the whole undercarriage (sheet metal, no moving parts or bushings) what do you guys think?
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Old Jan 31, 2013 | 11:54 PM
  #7  
Nocturnal-G's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 675
Likes: 1
From: LA, CA
2002 E55 AMG
Originally Posted by w210e55amg
Nocturnal and black omega i really appreciate your time!
So I think for my next oil change i'm just gonna change it and fill with 5w40 mobil one and a mann filter and deal with the weep when i need to!
Now onto the shocks(thanks for correcting my terminology) my car sits very low in the front (bought it this way so either lowering springs, someone cut the springs, or just really shot shocks) I'll post some pics soon! once i find out i might go with the 647 b8 shock.

Blackomega I really appreciate the ebay posting because I was about to spend $80 on a genuine mercedes dip stick...and I need to just do a quick buffing of the headlights. And I was thinking of treating what little rust i do have with some neutralizer then undercoating the whole undercarriage (sheet metal, no moving parts or bushings) what do you guys think?
No problem! Just a few suggestions, find out which tensioner you have on the car. Then replace the idler... it's not overkill. I changed my tensioner and idler recently... I had about 101k miles at the time.

It's not the bearings that wear out first... it's the plastic. Here is mine... cracked all the way through.

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