JaGa

Ok don't shoot me if its been brought up I did poke around before asking.

I've got a 1999 E55 that I just bought last week. When I test drove it it had no problems at all, slow fast, quick acceleration, slow acceleration, no leaks or rust so I bought it. Couple days ago it started hesitating with WOT, so I poked around here and suggestion was Techron, so I bought a couple cans, changed the oil with Mobile one 0-40 with basic filter, which I will be replacing with a Mann filter in 3k miles, cleaned the MAF.

Now at WOT there is no hesitation, seems quick and such but when I come to a stop with the tranny in drive, or any forward gear it stalls. If I pop it into neutral as I stop it doesn't stall and if I stop reeaaallllyyyy ssssllloooowwwwlllllyyyy it doesn't stall either.

The car has full maintenance record with it and never seems to have had transmission fluid replaced, plug wires, or plugs it seems.

Now for the question; should I wait out the Techron, or just change the fluid, wires, and plugs. Also I've read that the crank sensor could be bad and cause stalling when stopping. And if so which plugs should I use I can get Bosh Fusions for $4 back per plug, and I know it would take 16 of em.

Also what temp do your guyses engine run at. I'm down in San Antonio and its already >100 F with heat index and car runs at like 100-115 C. Is this normal? My Land Rover used to run like this but I changed the fan clutch and the running temp dropped down below 100 C under any condition with both A/C's running full blast. So should I replace fan clutch, there seems to be no receipt from previous owner for it back up it being replaced.

Happy speeding!!

Nocturnal-G

Stay away from multi-electrode plugs. I have NGK Iridium plugs and I'm happy with them so far.

In the 2002 E55, NGK Platinum plugs were OEM.

Edit: Just saw how hot your engine is running... 115 is way too high. How many miles on the car?

Strigoi

Even when it's been well over 100° out my car has never gotten over 100 on the gauge.

Did you have a PDI done prior to buying the car? These cars can get rather expensive to fix if something goes wrong.

JaGa

Ok. Car has 170000 miles on it. And I found another stack of receipts/invoices to go through. Transmission had full service 60000 miles ago so far.

JaGa

Ok I found were the guy was stashing his invoices. He has invoices for every 12000 miles or so or every year since he bought it in early 2000, talk about a book, I'm the first none MB guy to change the oil, ever. Looks like fuel filter is due its been a while by the looks of it, air sensor was changed 5K ago at Mercedes of San Antonio, Crank was done some 30,000 miles ago. I haven't tried driving the car since yesterday and It'll probably be Tuesday before I drive it again.

JaGa

Turned out to be a complete noob move on my part, I just forgot to plug the air flow sensor back in. Cleaned all my cars air flow sensors and left only that one unplugged, must have been the heat her in south Texas getting to me.

The only thing that seems due after going through guys receipts is fuel filter.

The car takes around 10 sec to get to 60 but really puts the power down after 80mph now. Maybe its the fuel filter being dirty?

The temp the car runs at is 90-100 C and never get over 100 C, is this to high? He had coolant system drained and serviced like 20000 miles ago at MB dealer.

No I didn't get a inspection done my dad, an old nascar mechanic, and I are usually good at finding any problems with a car when we look at it.

snooozie

Check the air filters too. Might be clogged up.

JaGa

Air filters are dirty and I have a pair of Mann filters on order from RockAuto.

snooozie

^That might explain why your temp is so high. By changing the air filters, you will immediately see a difference in the smootheness of the engine as it was able to breath better.

Nocturnal-G

10 seconds to get to 60 sounds horribly wrong... fuel filter would be a good start, I'd check the EGR valve for gunk and clean that out... then see how the car behaves before throwing money at it.

JaGa

Thanks I'll check EGR.

JaGa

From the ride home I can say that when I drive like a civilized person it seems just fine but when I stomp on it, either from a dead stop or while already moving it starts hesitate/miss. When I got home and got the kids out I went back out and with the car in neutral it rev up to about 3800 RPM cleanly but then develops a miss and will not go higher than 4000 RPM, even my old Rover revs to that . I tried this both with the air box on and off. I get no lights or anything like that on the dash. I think I know whats wrong but I don't know how to address it with this car and its computers, need to find a dealers manual and comb through it. Anyone know where to find one? OR do I have to scorer the dark sides of the Internets.

Nocturnal-G

Impossible to rev past 4k RPM, it's a safety feature. What do you think is the issue?

JaGa

It doesn't act up unless its under load.

Its like the timing isn't advancing, or the timing is off and not firing when the piston is at the top of the cylinder.

I don't think its fuel starvation, I could be wrong, I just got this car and haven't had time to learn the way it 'feels' just yet. Though it was great up until Friday morning.

I'm used to this with my Rover, on day your on, and climbing a 60 degree face, the next your struggling to get to work. The things I'm willing to deal with for performance vehicles, must be crazy.

JaGa

I think its firing late. Seems to have occasional slight back fire when floored. Only one or two cylinders I think.

BlownV8

You may have a failing CPS. It can give symptoms like this early on. Have you ever had it replaced?

JaGa

About 50K ago. I was thinking that also after reading last night that it helps set timing up. At least that's not killer cost wise.

JaGa

I don't think its the Crank sensor I just took it out and it makes voltage when I interrupt the magnetic field. Going to take the EGR off and try cleaning it.

BlownV8

You need to do an Ohm test after it is up to operating temp since heat will create resistance. You will need someone to turn the car over while you test the CPS.

JaGa

As a question, what should be the ohms I'm looking for? Generally my experience has been an open or no creation of voltage when you cross the magnetic field on a two wire CPS censor is the most common kind of failure. I couldn't find the specifics (ohms or voltages) so I just took (wooo thunder around here) how I used to test magnetic sensor at Autohell so many years ago and applied it to my situation.

I replaced EGR. Its diaphragm didn't hold vacuum and seemed stuck when manually operated. Its mountains better now as the slight back firing seems to have gone away. Though it still hesitates when floored at the point of kick down. Not much mind you. I took a coworker for a test drive and he could not feel the hesitation I was describing but its still 8-10 sec to 60 seems slow to me for this car.

After talking to a coworker who has older BMWs, he just got back from vacation, said he'd bring his OBDII reader in we can get reading while car is running.

I'm waiting for my air filter and fuel filter to come in before I spend to much more money.

BlownV8

Should be around 500 to 750 ohm. Apply heat with a heat gun, if it climbs above that range, it's probably bad. I couldn't find the exact specs either but that should give you an idea if it's going south.

JaGa

Got a hold of OBD scanner. There was a litany of codes that basically boiled down I had left the mas air flow sensor unplugged a couple of days ago. So I cleared codes and was able to accelerate past 80 without dropping into a limp mode. I then reran scanner and had no codes, but it still didn't seem like it was accelerating fast enough.

When I got home I ran the OBD and found that cylinder 1 and 7 were misfiring. So I cleared them and changed the air filters and fuel filters hoping that might clear things out.

I took a trip for pizza to try it out but it still doesn't seem to accelerate right. It still easily broke the century mark and then some but the 0-60 is still 10 sec or so and seems to be held back when I floor it, almost like a blocked cat would act like.

It had no codes when I got home but it was a short trip, I'll run the scanner again when I get to work to see if the long trip drags any codes up.

ob1kenobi

It's gotta be driven hard. I had your symptons for a long time but the car didn't throw a CEL code (P0335) for a long time. Once it did, it is so sudden. I cleared the code and it didn't come back at all. Once I replaced the CPS my E55 felt like it accelerates like a bat out of hell.

Nocturnal-G

I have a CPS in the car for an emergency, just in case the current original goes bad. My original has 107k miles on it, guess it wouldn't hurt to change it as preventative maintenance.

JaGa

I changed my CPS just as insurance yesterday. I'll see what happens today.