Rear Subframe Bushings
01-03-2016, 08:23 AM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I sold it to a fellow member with the user name: Glen McCartney. Send him a PM and see if you can work a deal with him. I'm looking forward to hearing about the condition of your bushings and the feel of the car with the new ones installed.
01-05-2016, 12:24 AM
#27
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2007 SL55 AMG
I was looking up the part numbers and it seems that the part numbers provided in this thread are for E320/ E430 and other non AMG variants. There are different part numbers for the E55s. I got the following part numbers for E55: 2103507408 and 2103507508
Can anyone confirm the differences and if the correct ones are still available for E55s? Autohausaz does not list them for E55s but lists the previously posted part numbers for E430/ E320. I also look on ecs tuning and while both showed up, the E55 numbers simply say repair kit and not bushing kit.
I found a thread asking a similar question over on the german e class forum: http://www.e-klasse-forum.de/index.p...threadID=57331
Can anyone confirm the differences and if the correct ones are still available for E55s? Autohausaz does not list them for E55s but lists the previously posted part numbers for E430/ E320. I also look on ecs tuning and while both showed up, the E55 numbers simply say repair kit and not bushing kit.
I found a thread asking a similar question over on the german e class forum: http://www.e-klasse-forum.de/index.p...threadID=57331
Last edited by desired_speeds; 01-05-2016 at 12:34 AM.
09-23-2021, 08:45 AM
#29
Newbie
I'm about to start on this job myself.
Did you only jack the one side of the car up that you were working on, or was the other side supported by a jack stand while you did the work? I imagine only jacking one side up at a time would assist with the subframe separating from the body.
Thanks!
Did you only jack the one side of the car up that you were working on, or was the other side supported by a jack stand while you did the work? I imagine only jacking one side up at a time would assist with the subframe separating from the body.
Thanks!
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Low C230 (09-23-2021)
09-23-2021, 11:16 AM
#30
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2000 C230k sport (sold), 1999 c43 Amg, 1997 C280 sport sold) 1996 C36 Amg, 2001 E55 Amg
Hey this post is like 6 years old you might have a better chance on the facebook groups. "Join Mercedes Benz w210 e55 AMG" it's pretty active here i bet a bunch of people will chime in.
03-31-2022, 08:30 AM
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Mercedes C250 Turbodiesel
Five weeks or so ago I took my car on a 500+ mile roundtrip which is the furthest I've driven it since I bought it. About two-thirds of the way to my destination I started noticing what felt like the rear suspension wasn't working properly. It wasn't riding terribly, but it wasn't working like Ithought it should and how it had worked prior to this trip. It felt like the suspension travel was limited. It rode over bumps more harshly and skipped over bumps at times instead of absorbing them. It just felt unsettled and I hadn't experienced this before. Most of this was at 75+ MPH on the highway. At one point I transitioned from one highway to another using a circular exit/entry ramp. The car handled really badly. Whatever was happening affected the way the car steered through the relatively high speed ramp. When I arrived to my destination I could feel the same unsettled, rougher riding, bump-skipping characteristics at 35 MPH.
Obviously I was concerned because I was away from home and immediately started researching my problem online. The thing that I read about a few times that sounded exactly like what I was experiencing was the rear subframe support bushings. If they haven't been on your radar (they've never been on mine), there are four bushings that support the subframe. Two in the front and two different style bushings in the rear. They are relatively inexpensive so I decided I would replace them. I drove the 250 miles home, researched some more and ordered the bushings. Some of the R&R's that I read about online were some utilizing no special tools. Others used specialized removal and installation tools that made the job easier. I decided to buy the expensive tool because I wasn't in the mood to fight with the bushings without some aid. It took weeks for me to find the tool. Many sites had it listed and I placed two orders that were refunded because they didn't actually have the tool in stock. Evidently the folks that supply the tool to most retailers had a supply stuck in customs somewhere. Eventually I found one to go with the bushings that had arrived weeks earlier.
As some of you know I love pictures so I thought I would share some so you can get an idea of what is involved changing out these bushings. I jacked up the car from the side, removed the rear tire, and then removed the plastic cover from the bottom of the lower control arm. I then placed a jack stand under the control arm and lowered the jack until the control arm was barely touching the jack stand. The jack on the side was still holding up the car. These pics show the front and rear bushings:
Attachment 375812
Attachment 375813
You are now ready to remove the bolts from underneath each bushing. When done you can jack the car up further from the side and the subframe will separate from the bottom of the car. This is necessary because the front bushing is removed and reinstalled from the top. The rear bushing is accessed from the bottom. Here are pics after the bolts were removed and the subframe separated from the bottom of the car:
Attachment 375814
Attachment 375815
I then tackled the front bushing which was more involved based on the accounts that I had read about. Using the special tool you basically press the center section of the bushing up and out from the bushing pocket. The bushing is liquid filled so when you start pressing it upward the nasty fluid leaks out. Once it is out you have to force the outer metal perimeter of the bushing out. There isn't a special tool for this part of the operation. I used a chisel and a 4-pound sledge hammer to beat the crap out the outer casing. It is pretty tough. Once I had it bent out of shape a bit I used some pry tools to pry it out of the pocket. You want to be careful not to damage the pocket since your new bushing has to fit nicely in the circular pocket.
Attachment 375816
Attachment 375817
Attachment 375818
Attachment 375819
Once the outer shell was removed I cleaned all of the leaked fluid from the pocket and surrounding area. There's a flat area on the front of the bushing and the corresponding area of the pocket. Before placing the new bushing in I applied some silicone grease to the edges of the new bushing and inside the pocket. Utilizing the special tool the new bushing easily presses into place.
Attachment 375820
Attachment 375821
Attachment 375822
Attachment 375823
The rear bushings are easier to work with. They drop out from the bottom and come out in one piece. From most accounts, and my observations, they don't take as much abuse as the front bushings and probably aren't the problem. They are larger than the front bushings. I'm not sure if they are liquid filled since they come out in one piece. I opted to replace them since they aren't expensive and I had access.
Attachment 375824
You are now ready to lower the jack dropping the car back down to mate it with the subframe. The jack stand supports the subframe. The new bushings come with new hardware. When you remove the old bolts note the large washer/spacer on the front bushing so you can be sure to install the new one correctly. Torque down the new bolts (66 ft-lbs) and reinstall the plastic cover on the lower control arm and you are done with the left side. The right is the same except you need to remove the plastic cover that protects the headlight aim mechanism.
It is unfortunate that the front bushings are destroyed during the removal process. I still have them nonetheless and will have a closer look when I have some time. Here are some pics from the top of the new front bushing and one of the old bushing. Some of the damage on the old bushing I caused during the removal process.
Attachment 375825
Attachment 375826
Attachment 375827
I managed to crack the ARB drop link on the right side while doing the work, so that delayed me a couple of days while I waited on a replacement pair.
Attachment 375828
I finally had a minute to test the car yesterday and went for a 20 mile drive. I could feel the difference backing out of my driveway! I did some 35/45MPH driving and some 60/70 MPH driving. It definitely solved my problem. The car feels better than it ever has. It is somewhat difficult to effectively explain the difference, but one word would be poised. I imagine this is close to how these cars felt new. The rear suspension feels so different. The shocks seem more responsive. I drove another 20 or so miles today and felt the same thing.
My car only has 70,000 miles and is pretty clean underneath. Some of the pictures of these bushings that I've seen online look 10x worse than mine. I know that doesn't really say anything about their condition. But I have to believe if you have a higher mileage car or drive in severe conditions you will benefit greatly by replacing these bushings. These things usually deteriorate so slowly you don't realize how bad they are until you replace them. I really don't understand what happened in my case but I am glad I tackled this job. I hope this information is useful to others.
ddb
Obviously I was concerned because I was away from home and immediately started researching my problem online. The thing that I read about a few times that sounded exactly like what I was experiencing was the rear subframe support bushings. If they haven't been on your radar (they've never been on mine), there are four bushings that support the subframe. Two in the front and two different style bushings in the rear. They are relatively inexpensive so I decided I would replace them. I drove the 250 miles home, researched some more and ordered the bushings. Some of the R&R's that I read about online were some utilizing no special tools. Others used specialized removal and installation tools that made the job easier. I decided to buy the expensive tool because I wasn't in the mood to fight with the bushings without some aid. It took weeks for me to find the tool. Many sites had it listed and I placed two orders that were refunded because they didn't actually have the tool in stock. Evidently the folks that supply the tool to most retailers had a supply stuck in customs somewhere. Eventually I found one to go with the bushings that had arrived weeks earlier.
As some of you know I love pictures so I thought I would share some so you can get an idea of what is involved changing out these bushings. I jacked up the car from the side, removed the rear tire, and then removed the plastic cover from the bottom of the lower control arm. I then placed a jack stand under the control arm and lowered the jack until the control arm was barely touching the jack stand. The jack on the side was still holding up the car. These pics show the front and rear bushings:
Attachment 375812
Attachment 375813
You are now ready to remove the bolts from underneath each bushing. When done you can jack the car up further from the side and the subframe will separate from the bottom of the car. This is necessary because the front bushing is removed and reinstalled from the top. The rear bushing is accessed from the bottom. Here are pics after the bolts were removed and the subframe separated from the bottom of the car:
Attachment 375814
Attachment 375815
I then tackled the front bushing which was more involved based on the accounts that I had read about. Using the special tool you basically press the center section of the bushing up and out from the bushing pocket. The bushing is liquid filled so when you start pressing it upward the nasty fluid leaks out. Once it is out you have to force the outer metal perimeter of the bushing out. There isn't a special tool for this part of the operation. I used a chisel and a 4-pound sledge hammer to beat the crap out the outer casing. It is pretty tough. Once I had it bent out of shape a bit I used some pry tools to pry it out of the pocket. You want to be careful not to damage the pocket since your new bushing has to fit nicely in the circular pocket.
Attachment 375816
Attachment 375817
Attachment 375818
Attachment 375819
Once the outer shell was removed I cleaned all of the leaked fluid from the pocket and surrounding area. There's a flat area on the front of the bushing and the corresponding area of the pocket. Before placing the new bushing in I applied some silicone grease to the edges of the new bushing and inside the pocket. Utilizing the special tool the new bushing easily presses into place.
Attachment 375820
Attachment 375821
Attachment 375822
Attachment 375823
The rear bushings are easier to work with. They drop out from the bottom and come out in one piece. From most accounts, and my observations, they don't take as much abuse as the front bushings and probably aren't the problem. They are larger than the front bushings. I'm not sure if they are liquid filled since they come out in one piece. I opted to replace them since they aren't expensive and I had access.
Attachment 375824
You are now ready to lower the jack dropping the car back down to mate it with the subframe. The jack stand supports the subframe. The new bushings come with new hardware. When you remove the old bolts note the large washer/spacer on the front bushing so you can be sure to install the new one correctly. Torque down the new bolts (66 ft-lbs) and reinstall the plastic cover on the lower control arm and you are done with the left side. The right is the same except you need to remove the plastic cover that protects the headlight aim mechanism.
It is unfortunate that the front bushings are destroyed during the removal process. I still have them nonetheless and will have a closer look when I have some time. Here are some pics from the top of the new front bushing and one of the old bushing. Some of the damage on the old bushing I caused during the removal process.
Attachment 375825
Attachment 375826
Attachment 375827
I managed to crack the ARB drop link on the right side while doing the work, so that delayed me a couple of days while I waited on a replacement pair.
Attachment 375828
I finally had a minute to test the car yesterday and went for a 20 mile drive. I could feel the difference backing out of my driveway! I did some 35/45MPH driving and some 60/70 MPH driving. It definitely solved my problem. The car feels better than it ever has. It is somewhat difficult to effectively explain the difference, but one word would be poised. I imagine this is close to how these cars felt new. The rear suspension feels so different. The shocks seem more responsive. I drove another 20 or so miles today and felt the same thing.
My car only has 70,000 miles and is pretty clean underneath. Some of the pictures of these bushings that I've seen online look 10x worse than mine. I know that doesn't really say anything about their condition. But I have to believe if you have a higher mileage car or drive in severe conditions you will benefit greatly by replacing these bushings. These things usually deteriorate so slowly you don't realize how bad they are until you replace them. I really don't understand what happened in my case but I am glad I tackled this job. I hope this information is useful to others.
ddb
I have genuine MB subframe mounting bushes, 1243511942 for the fronts which are the same part number as the ones I removed. Fitted Febi to the rear which were very tight to fit but otherwise fit fine.
When I fit the subframe however there is a gap between the subframe socket and rubber backed washer on the front mounts? So when you torque the bolt up all it is doing is clamping the bush inner to the shell, the rubber backed washer isn't and won't do anything until you fit the springs, at which point I guess the spring pressure will push the gap to the other side of the bush.
Looking at the pic of your mount before you started work, I can see the gap at the top.
Is this normal?! I don't remember this when I removed the subframe but then it was covered in rust and muck so there could well have been a gap between the subframe and the bush lip on the top face.
I'm a loss because there are only 4 parts to deal with on the W202 with regards the subframe front mounts- the bush, the washer, the subframe and the bolt. No shims or anything so I guess the bush must be designed to float in the socket?!
Any tips much appreciated.
