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My front tires have the inside tread "cut" off.
Have a look at the pictures.
They are the stock size, recommended pressure, factory wheels.
All suspension components are tight and solid.
No wandering, funky clunks, vibrations, etc ... when driving.
Otherwise the tires are wearing evenly.
The tires are Cooper RS3-A.
Are my tires hitting the upper ball joint bolt?
Even with the inside tread cut off I can barely slide my finger between the nut and tire.
Mine were wearing like that in 6k miles until I got a good alignment with caster bolts. Also check your lower control arm bushings. Worn bushings will throw off your alignment.
Mine does that; I am waiting for new lower arm bushings right now. I already have put a caster bolt in the driver side to compensate last time I did an alignment. Looking forward to restoring the ride.
FYI, if it is the lower control arm bushing, you will often get this as well as notice that the gap between the front wheel arch and tire is excessive and more wear on the outside of the tire. The caster bolt I put in is no longer sufficient to keep the tire from contacting the upper ball joint assembly. I got about 8 months out of this Band-Aid.
FYI, if it is the lower control arm bushing, you will often get this as well as notice that the gap between the front wheel arch and tire is excessive and more wear on the outside of the tire. The caster bolt I put in is no longer sufficient to keep the tire from contacting the upper ball joint assembly. I got about 8 months out of this Band-Aid.
UPRATED BUSHINGS AND FRONT/REAR CAMBER, CASTER ADJUSTER KITS
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Then (with no “Camber” or “Caster” adjustment OEM) – incorporating into these bushings a K-MAC design breakthrough of no disassembly required each time – instead ongoing/precise single wrench adjustment “on car” – accurately (under load) direct on alignment rack!
Allowing to fix it right the first time - resolving costly, premature edge tire wear and the capability to properly fix steering pull, improve high speed directional control along with reduced dive/lift on brake and acceleration.
The result of worn bushes, or because of altering height, fitting wide profile tires, load carrying curb knock damage
CAMBER – Allows to actually change the tire contact angle, improving wear/ traction/ understeer/ oversteer
CASTER – Resolves steering pull, increases steering response. With better turn in and high speed directional control, along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
For the front (only) – there are available fluted offset bolts. But these are inaccurate (one only position) bolts offering a minimal .3 of one degree (1/8” / 3mm) and require labour intensive disassembly each time.
While the K-MAC unique patented design provides up to 4 times the adjustment range (and single wrench precise/ongoing adjustment capability – on car).
FOR THE REAR SIMILAR KITS – Providing Camber also for the 1st time for more even tire wear/traction. Again these 2 inner lower arm bushings are the highest wearing. Bush extraction tool included allowing bushes to be replaced on car. Rear kit also includes importantly extra Toe adjustment bushes to compensate for the new Camber facility.
NOTE – you can purchase adjustable upper Camber arms for the rear, but difficult to fit, access and to reduce inner edge tire wear unlike K-MAC lower arm bushings – these arms need to adjust top of tire outwards which reduces all important clearance to outer fender.
Front Camber and Caster bushings (W211) #502216K $480 Rear Camber (and extra Toe) (W211) #502526 $480
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Payment can be made by PayPal, Visa or MasterCard.
So an update on my situation, in case you haven't solved yours. The upper ball joint that is pressed into the upper arm was worn and loose, sending the upper contact point on the spindle out distally from the centerline, and canting the ball joint nut into the tire. The worn lowers were allowing the lower attachment point (on the lower control arm) to shift inward, further adding positive camber. All of this was cutting pretty deeply into the inside corner of the tread.
I've pretty much decided to refurb everything on the front.
Upper and lower ball joints and bushings.
The last thing I want to do is guess at the problem and go through a 1000 dollars worth of tires to save few bucks.
Noticed my front shocks are weeping also.
13 years old and 100k miles and i drive it like i stole it and track it 2-3 times a year
Gotta pay to play
Did you replace just the upper ball joint or the complete upper control arm?
Where did you find the best price?
Replacing the upper control arm as a whole and refurbishing the lower.-all Lemfoerder stuff. Just waiting for the uppers to arrive this afternoon. Costing me about $420 for both sides.
01-29-2016, 01:04 PM
