buy or move on...
#1
buy or move on...
Hello all.
New to site. I have been reading up a lot on this site about the e55 210.
My question:
I'm looking to buy a white 1999 e55 locally here in San jose. All electronics work.
the engine seems to need an engine mount done, as well as valve covers new gasket, needs transmission fluid flush. otherwise it runs well. 130k miles. I've lowered the price to $4200. is it worth buying or move on?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/ctd/5844983100.html
thanks in advance.
em
New to site. I have been reading up a lot on this site about the e55 210.
My question:
I'm looking to buy a white 1999 e55 locally here in San jose. All electronics work.
the engine seems to need an engine mount done, as well as valve covers new gasket, needs transmission fluid flush. otherwise it runs well. 130k miles. I've lowered the price to $4200. is it worth buying or move on?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/ctd/5844983100.html
thanks in advance.
em
#3
Really, I thought compared to the w211, the 210 was more reliable, from what I read. I guess it all comes down to service records, but man they don't have any service records. thanks
#4
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'99 and '05 E55 AMG
I love my '99 E55 and prefer it to the facelift version. Less complicated and parts such as the headlight lenses are available much cheaper. The price on the car looks good.
Key points:
-insist on a "Quick Test" diagnostic on the car right in front of you. Look for current trouble codes. Something such as a stuck headlight aim adjuster motor is a pain to correct but not a deal killer.
-I would expect with that mileage the rotors and brake pads were replaced; I spent $591.38 on parts to replace mine at 103K miles. On this car I would expect them to have been replaced.
-I found my W210 E55 to require bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, rear suspension pieces after 100K miles. Not terribly expensive if you have the tools and do it yourself. If this San Jose car has the maintenance records to show suspension work was performed since 100K miles, I would recommend jumping on it; $5K is not a bad price at all for a car of which only 300 were imported to North America in 1999.
-FWIW, I find my W210 E55 to be a more comfortable ride than my W211 E55. Not as quick, doesn't handle quite as well, but still not to be trifled with and much, much cheaper to maintain and easier to work on.
Best to you on your decision.
Key points:
-insist on a "Quick Test" diagnostic on the car right in front of you. Look for current trouble codes. Something such as a stuck headlight aim adjuster motor is a pain to correct but not a deal killer.
-I would expect with that mileage the rotors and brake pads were replaced; I spent $591.38 on parts to replace mine at 103K miles. On this car I would expect them to have been replaced.
-I found my W210 E55 to require bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, rear suspension pieces after 100K miles. Not terribly expensive if you have the tools and do it yourself. If this San Jose car has the maintenance records to show suspension work was performed since 100K miles, I would recommend jumping on it; $5K is not a bad price at all for a car of which only 300 were imported to North America in 1999.
-FWIW, I find my W210 E55 to be a more comfortable ride than my W211 E55. Not as quick, doesn't handle quite as well, but still not to be trifled with and much, much cheaper to maintain and easier to work on.
Best to you on your decision.
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slowbutsure (10-30-2016)
#5
I love my '99 E55 and prefer it to the facelift version. Less complicated and parts such as the headlight lenses are available much cheaper. The price on the car looks good.
Key points:
-insist on a "Quick Test" diagnostic on the car right in front of you. Look for current trouble codes. Something such as a stuck headlight aim adjuster motor is a pain to correct but not a deal killer.
-I would expect with that mileage the rotors and brake pads were replaced; I spent $591.38 on parts to replace mine at 103K miles. On this car I would expect them to have been replaced.
-I found my W210 E55 to require bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, rear suspension pieces after 100K miles. Not terribly expensive if you have the tools and do it yourself. If this San Jose car has the maintenance records to show suspension work was performed since 100K miles, I would recommend jumping on it; $5K is not a bad price at all for a car of which only 300 were imported to North America in 1999.
-FWIW, I find my W210 E55 to be a more comfortable ride than my W211 E55. Not as quick, doesn't handle quite as well, but still not to be trifled with and much, much cheaper to maintain and easier to work on.
Best to you on your decision.
Key points:
-insist on a "Quick Test" diagnostic on the car right in front of you. Look for current trouble codes. Something such as a stuck headlight aim adjuster motor is a pain to correct but not a deal killer.
-I would expect with that mileage the rotors and brake pads were replaced; I spent $591.38 on parts to replace mine at 103K miles. On this car I would expect them to have been replaced.
-I found my W210 E55 to require bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, rear suspension pieces after 100K miles. Not terribly expensive if you have the tools and do it yourself. If this San Jose car has the maintenance records to show suspension work was performed since 100K miles, I would recommend jumping on it; $5K is not a bad price at all for a car of which only 300 were imported to North America in 1999.
-FWIW, I find my W210 E55 to be a more comfortable ride than my W211 E55. Not as quick, doesn't handle quite as well, but still not to be trifled with and much, much cheaper to maintain and easier to work on.
Best to you on your decision.
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#8
#9
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From my understanding, after year 2000 you can tune the ECU by sending ECU to tuner or have cable using laptop. I don't think you can tune 99 ECU.
#10
Super Member
Originally Posted by CharlyE500
From my understanding, after year 2000 you can tune the ECU by sending ECU to tuner or have cable using laptop. I don't think you can tune 99 ECU.
The EGS52 can be programmed, the 51 cannot.
IMO, you get a lot more with a facelift model both inside & out.
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slowbutsure (11-02-2016)
#11
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1999 E55 AMG, 2004 Big Turbo A4; 2005 C240 Wagon 4matic; 2001 ML430
They do have a few more features, and a couple of things sorted out, but the W210 had 4 model years that were imported before the E55 hit the US in '99, and mine has been the most reliable car I've ever owned. I think the pre-facelift looks classier, too, but that's my opinion. Seats aren't air conditioned or as adjustable, but are quite comfortable and don't have the problem of leaking air bladders, failed pumps, etc. They did away with the drain plug for torque converter on the later models, too. Most of the other important bits are the same or equivalent. If you plan to mod it, the post-facelift is the way to go, though. The ECU and speedshift are the only changes I really wish that mine had as opposed to the 2000-2002. If I could just make the EGS52 connect to the CAN-BUS, TCU, and related modules I'd jump on it.
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slowbutsure (11-05-2016)