W210 e55 amg with headers, exhaust, intake and retune
#1
W210 e55 amg with headers, exhaust, intake and retune
Hi all! Got my e55 couple of weeks ago, and just made some changes. Did the 4"intake with heatshield and air direct from bumper, installed VRP medium headers (driver side needs alot of modification since these are for w211), magnaflow 200cel front cats, removed resonator and rear cats and had ECU retuned.
The car was great To begin with, but MAN is it sweet now! The sound is awesone and there is alot more power. Haven't dynoed it yet, but from video there is a real difference.
-80-120km/h stock 3,7s vs 2,5s
Just gonna make the exhaust better, since there's a leak In the middle.
These things are so great To drive!
Anybody Else made some mechanical performance upgrades To their w210 e55?
The following users liked this post:
Low C230 (05-16-2020)
#2
I know you say a lot, but what modifications were needed to get the VRP headers to work? I imagine they would not bolt to the stock primary cats. Also where did you get the strut tower brace? Cheers for wrenching on the car!
Last edited by OOgsAggie; 04-26-2020 at 01:52 PM.
#3
Well the passenger side needed To be cut at the end of the collector, and continue with a bend. Cat was installed at the Same place the stock one was.
The driver side was a different story. It turns about 50mm too much outwards at the collector end and hit the engine bay body.
I had To cut the primaries and make the whole header turn a bit tighter. There is No room To jiggle around beacause of the steering column and all. I'll take pictures after i go under there again To remake the exhaust after the cats
You need To continue the headers from the collector and pass the lower sway bar before you can make a flange connection of any sort.
And nothing Else than the headers them self is not Bolt on. Everything need To be welded again and remade
And for the strutbars they are both self made.
The front is pretty simple if you can weld.
The poles are 32mm tube with thick 10mm Bolt washer on bottom, and a 20x40mm bar between them. Just take the shock absorber bolts Off, and put the tube In and put the Bolt back.
The rear one has To use 6 45degree angles if you keep the interior intact In the boot
The driver side was a different story. It turns about 50mm too much outwards at the collector end and hit the engine bay body.
I had To cut the primaries and make the whole header turn a bit tighter. There is No room To jiggle around beacause of the steering column and all. I'll take pictures after i go under there again To remake the exhaust after the cats
You need To continue the headers from the collector and pass the lower sway bar before you can make a flange connection of any sort.
And nothing Else than the headers them self is not Bolt on. Everything need To be welded again and remade
And for the strutbars they are both self made.
The front is pretty simple if you can weld.
The poles are 32mm tube with thick 10mm Bolt washer on bottom, and a 20x40mm bar between them. Just take the shock absorber bolts Off, and put the tube In and put the Bolt back.
The rear one has To use 6 45degree angles if you keep the interior intact In the boot
Last edited by Erno Alanko; 04-26-2020 at 02:22 PM.
#4
Well the passenger side needed To be cut at the end of the collector, and continue with a bend. Cat was installed at the Same place the stock one was.
The driver side was a different story. It turns about 50mm too much outwards at the collector end and hit the engine bay body.
I had To cut the primaries and make the whole header turn a bit tighter. There is No room To jiggle around beacause of the steering column and all. I'll take pictures after i go under there again To remake the exhaust after the cats
You need To continue the headers from the collector and pass the lower sway bar before you can make a flange connection of any sort.
And nothing Else than the headers them self is not Bolt on. Everything need To be welded again and remade
And for the strutbars they are both self made.
The front is pretty simple if you can weld.
The poles are 32mm tube with thick 10mm Bolt washer on bottom, and a 20x40mm bar between them. Just take the shock absorber bolts Off, and put the tube In and put the Bolt back.
The rear one has To use 6 45degree angles if you keep the interior intact In the boot
The driver side was a different story. It turns about 50mm too much outwards at the collector end and hit the engine bay body.
I had To cut the primaries and make the whole header turn a bit tighter. There is No room To jiggle around beacause of the steering column and all. I'll take pictures after i go under there again To remake the exhaust after the cats
You need To continue the headers from the collector and pass the lower sway bar before you can make a flange connection of any sort.
And nothing Else than the headers them self is not Bolt on. Everything need To be welded again and remade
And for the strutbars they are both self made.
The front is pretty simple if you can weld.
The poles are 32mm tube with thick 10mm Bolt washer on bottom, and a 20x40mm bar between them. Just take the shock absorber bolts Off, and put the tube In and put the Bolt back.
The rear one has To use 6 45degree angles if you keep the interior intact In the boot
may car is making 350whp and 370lb ft
#6
or even better idea keep the brown tops in and buy a valve body. Shifts way better, or just get a tcu tune.
The following users liked this post:
Low C230 (05-16-2020)
#7
Where can i buy these solenoids for trans? The trans does lose at least 15% power so anything helping would be good. And is it a big Job to change them?
I think the tcu is always reprogrammed when they tune the cars with this guy. I'll need To make sure
Thanks for the advice everybody 😊
Last edited by Erno Alanko; 04-26-2020 at 10:14 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Any additional info on the bluetops nd trans mission mods are welcome.
I read that chsnging the trans body can result in a bit too harsh shifting In low speeds?
ID you change only the solenoids, do you only change 2 of the solenoids or all 6 of them?
I read that chsnging the trans body can result in a bit too harsh shifting In low speeds?
ID you change only the solenoids, do you only change 2 of the solenoids or all 6 of them?
The following users liked this post:
Low C230 (05-16-2020)
#10
Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 97
Likes: 4
From: Washington
2002 E55 AMG Tectite Grey, 02 Audi S6 Avant 6 SPD,2007 Buell XB12Scg Cherry Bomb
I started modifying the performance as of today. Picked up Kleemann headers and I want the Renntech airbox. When I get the headers installed I will send my ecu to Kleemann to tune it. I have the resonator and secondary cats deleted.
#11
Renntech air box, you know the cost on one of those? Have you seen a dyno from the airbox, does it make any power? Also have you seen kleemanns shop in Colorado. Follow them on Instagram, they hardly work on Mercedes. Why would you not get a Eurocharged tune?
#12
Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 97
Likes: 4
From: Washington
2002 E55 AMG Tectite Grey, 02 Audi S6 Avant 6 SPD,2007 Buell XB12Scg Cherry Bomb
I’m aware of the costs. I am not going to buy a new airbox. I know Kleemann in Colorado isn’t specifically mercedes focused, but Kleemann is. I wanted to pair their tune with the headers.
#13
Ahh I see, well a tune from kleemann will be coming from Colorado. What year is your car?
#14
#15
Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 97
Likes: 4
From: Washington
2002 E55 AMG Tectite Grey, 02 Audi S6 Avant 6 SPD,2007 Buell XB12Scg Cherry Bomb
#16
Well with Me2.8 in your 2002 you don’t have to mail your Me. You would just get a device that lets you up load it from your computer.
#17
Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 97
Likes: 4
From: Washington
2002 E55 AMG Tectite Grey, 02 Audi S6 Avant 6 SPD,2007 Buell XB12Scg Cherry Bomb
#18
Eurocharged can do it, I got my tune through them after I put in Kleeman headers, and a similar exhaust setup to what you're running. My car is an '02 running ME2.8 as well. It took like 10 minutes to install the tune. Scariest thing I've ever done, but I'm not really a 'tuner' guy. The car runs outstanding, and pulls a lot stronger than my friends lower mileage but totally stock 01 E55. Haven't dyno'd it yet, as the closest dyno is 6+ hours round trip, but the car gets the same MPG as it did stock so I'm gonna take that as a sign that it's at least really close.
#19
for your reference, i had both kleemann and eurocharged tunes after i install kleemann headers. EC makes slightly more power(5hp and butt dyno agrees with that) but i found kleemann to be smoother and oem like. i also dyno renntech airbox and got something around 15hp. there is plenty of info on renntech airbox, its proven winner.
just to add to kleemann colorado, i don't know what they focus on these days, but as long as cory is there you are in good hands. knows our car really well. if you want max hp, EC is place to go, but for oem like quality i would say kleemann.
just to add to kleemann colorado, i don't know what they focus on these days, but as long as cory is there you are in good hands. knows our car really well. if you want max hp, EC is place to go, but for oem like quality i would say kleemann.
#21
Just had a little Race with my friend Who has an Audi rs6 c5.
Audi is stock and has 450hp and 560nm of torque. By the numbers it does 0-60 In 4,7s and 100-200 In 13,1s.
A had two friends with me and from 60-200km/h we went side by side. From 150 i started To get a tiny lead.
I'd say right now i have more torque and about 100kg lighter car. And the audi is 4wd so....
Anyway, i'm happy with the result 😊
Audi is stock and has 450hp and 560nm of torque. By the numbers it does 0-60 In 4,7s and 100-200 In 13,1s.
A had two friends with me and from 60-200km/h we went side by side. From 150 i started To get a tiny lead.
I'd say right now i have more torque and about 100kg lighter car. And the audi is 4wd so....
Anyway, i'm happy with the result 😊
#22
Just dynoen the car.
342hp from the tires on 4th gear. Very good power band. Torque is impossible To measure really due To the 3500rpm up pull. Damn kickdown😁.
Still, excactly what i heard could be made with those parts. Still no X-pipe thou
342hp from the tires on 4th gear. Very good power band. Torque is impossible To measure really due To the 3500rpm up pull. Damn kickdown😁.
Still, excactly what i heard could be made with those parts. Still no X-pipe thou
#23
I mean I measure torque in my car on the dyno, and every other Mercedes we dyno. That shop just needs to learn how to dyno a Mercedes or any car with an auto lol. 342 is a good number for sure, I am guessing it makes around 360 as mine does.
#25
It did show the torque too. About 450nm from tires but starting from 3500rpm makes about 530nm from engine, so i think it may not be correct🤔. Buuuut anyway i'm happy with the result and it runs great.
Other measure support the dyno
5 runs 0-100km/h 4,5-5,4s
0-200km/h 17,6s vs stock 21,9s
402m 13,3s 175km/h
Used two GPS apps so No speedtrap but those things are pretty accurate.
Other measure support the dyno
5 runs 0-100km/h 4,5-5,4s
0-200km/h 17,6s vs stock 21,9s
402m 13,3s 175km/h
Used two GPS apps so No speedtrap but those things are pretty accurate.
Last edited by Erno Alanko; 05-11-2020 at 02:53 PM.