W210 e55 AMG vibrations between 45 -65 miles/hour
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w210 amg E55
W210 e55 AMG vibrations between 45 -65 miles/hour
Hi,
I have the well known vibrations on my w210 e55 amg from 2001 (with 60.000 miles) in the speed range from 46 (75km/h) up 65 miles/hour (110 km/h).
What I have done so far :
-New ball joints
-New motor mounts
-New transmission mount
-New flex discs
-Driveshaft
-New center bearing (driveshaft)
-New diff mount at the front
-2nd new set of new tires
-Flush of transmission
-Adjustment of diff washer (now 2mm) according to pinion angle calculation (before tested without, 1mm, 3mm and 4mm without big differences).
-New pressure accumulators
-Tires tested with high and low pressure (no difference)
-New front breakes
-Adjusted parking brake (no issues there)
Up to the speed of 45 miles/hour it is a smooth ride. At a higher speed small vibrations occur in whole chassis. Feels like riding on a rougher road / kind of wooble.
When I pass the speed of 75 miles/hour the vibrations becomes less and totally disappear above 80 miles/hour.
All independently of acceleration - in other words also present in the named speed range when I put it in N = neutral.
Do anybody has a tip where the problem is located ?
Future bullet points will be wheel bearings and axles bushings..
Regards Henrik
I have the well known vibrations on my w210 e55 amg from 2001 (with 60.000 miles) in the speed range from 46 (75km/h) up 65 miles/hour (110 km/h).
What I have done so far :
-New ball joints
-New motor mounts
-New transmission mount
-New flex discs
-Driveshaft
-New center bearing (driveshaft)
-New diff mount at the front
-2nd new set of new tires
-Flush of transmission
-Adjustment of diff washer (now 2mm) according to pinion angle calculation (before tested without, 1mm, 3mm and 4mm without big differences).
-New pressure accumulators
-Tires tested with high and low pressure (no difference)
-New front breakes
-Adjusted parking brake (no issues there)
Up to the speed of 45 miles/hour it is a smooth ride. At a higher speed small vibrations occur in whole chassis. Feels like riding on a rougher road / kind of wooble.
When I pass the speed of 75 miles/hour the vibrations becomes less and totally disappear above 80 miles/hour.
All independently of acceleration - in other words also present in the named speed range when I put it in N = neutral.
Do anybody has a tip where the problem is located ?
Future bullet points will be wheel bearings and axles bushings..
Regards Henrik
Last edited by w210e55amgjapan; Jul 11, 2023 at 02:19 PM.
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1999 E55 W210
What more ?
Hi,
I have the well known vibrations on my w210 e55 amg from 2001 (with 60.000 miles) in the speed range from 46 (75km/h) up 65 miles/hour (110 km/h).
What I have done so far :
-New motor mounts
-New flex discs
-Driveshaft
-New center bearing (driveshaft)
-New diff mount at the front
-2nd new set of new tires
-Flush of transmission
-Adjustment of diff washer (now 2mm) according to pinion angle calculation (before tested without, 1mm, 3mm and 4mm without big differences).
-New pressure accumulators
-Tires tested with high and low pressure (no difference)
-New front breakes
-Adjusted parking brake (no issues there)
Up to the speed of 45 miles/hour it is a smooth ride. At a higher speed small vibrations occur in whole chassis. Feels like riding on a rougher road / kind of wooble.
When I pass the speed of 75 miles/hour the vibrations becomes less and totally disappear above 80 miles/hour.
All independently of acceleration - in other words also present in the named speed range when I put it in N = neutral.
Do anybody has a tip where the problem is located ?
Future bullet points will be wheel bearings and axles bushings..
Regards Henrik
I have the well known vibrations on my w210 e55 amg from 2001 (with 60.000 miles) in the speed range from 46 (75km/h) up 65 miles/hour (110 km/h).
What I have done so far :
-New motor mounts
-New flex discs
-Driveshaft
-New center bearing (driveshaft)
-New diff mount at the front
-2nd new set of new tires
-Flush of transmission
-Adjustment of diff washer (now 2mm) according to pinion angle calculation (before tested without, 1mm, 3mm and 4mm without big differences).
-New pressure accumulators
-Tires tested with high and low pressure (no difference)
-New front breakes
-Adjusted parking brake (no issues there)
Up to the speed of 45 miles/hour it is a smooth ride. At a higher speed small vibrations occur in whole chassis. Feels like riding on a rougher road / kind of wooble.
When I pass the speed of 75 miles/hour the vibrations becomes less and totally disappear above 80 miles/hour.
All independently of acceleration - in other words also present in the named speed range when I put it in N = neutral.
Do anybody has a tip where the problem is located ?
Future bullet points will be wheel bearings and axles bushings..
Regards Henrik
Loose wheel bearings front and rear ?
Worn suspension bushings ?
Loose ball joints ?
Steering damper ?
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From: San Jose, CA
11 E550, 16 AMG GTS, 13 S550
thats usually a tires thing, some tires are noisier at speed. depends what your tires are and how well they're balanced. it's not rocket science a laser tells the technician what weights to put where. You could have dents in the wheel, but a lot of the time it's just tire design, and overall NVH of the vehicle youre driving.
i commute at 90mph, they pretty much all have some kind of rumble which can be dialed back by running more PSI
wheel bearings would make a noise at high speed, grow/rumbling and your wheels would be wicked hot to the touch after a long drive. axles make a clicking/buckling sound at low speed.
if you had an issue with bushings youd know right away, loud banging noises, knocking, you'd have wandering steering on the freeway if it was tie rod ends. At 60k i'd check your sway bar links though the cars getting on in age and those are very consumeable
i commute at 90mph, they pretty much all have some kind of rumble which can be dialed back by running more PSI
wheel bearings would make a noise at high speed, grow/rumbling and your wheels would be wicked hot to the touch after a long drive. axles make a clicking/buckling sound at low speed.
if you had an issue with bushings youd know right away, loud banging noises, knocking, you'd have wandering steering on the freeway if it was tie rod ends. At 60k i'd check your sway bar links though the cars getting on in age and those are very consumeable
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w210 amg E55
VibrationGhost
Thanks for the advice - highly appreciated 
The wheels are fine, professionally laser-balanced and just 2 weeks old.
Ball joints were done 1 year ago.
The bushings in general look good, no sounds, car in speed goes stable in one direction.
Only when hitting bumps at low speed the rear frame axle bushings give a thunking sound (but I read that this is more less normal at most T-models - but optically no defect visible.
I will check sway bar links next - cheers!
The wheels are fine, professionally laser-balanced and just 2 weeks old.
Ball joints were done 1 year ago.
The bushings in general look good, no sounds, car in speed goes stable in one direction.
Only when hitting bumps at low speed the rear frame axle bushings give a thunking sound (but I read that this is more less normal at most T-models - but optically no defect visible.
I will check sway bar links next - cheers!
Last edited by w210e55amgjapan; Jul 11, 2023 at 03:58 AM.
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w210 amg E55
As I said before... - it is not related to the tires!
I have tested 3 different sets of tires without making the slightest difference.
The last new ones were in addition balanced with best of technology in this field (where they measure the surface of the tire at speed) - now it is less than 2kg of centrifugal force on both in the rear.
I have tested 3 different sets of tires without making the slightest difference.
The last new ones were in addition balanced with best of technology in this field (where they measure the surface of the tire at speed) - now it is less than 2kg of centrifugal force on both in the rear.
Last edited by w210e55amgjapan; Jul 11, 2023 at 01:58 PM.
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From: San Jose, CA
11 E550, 16 AMG GTS, 13 S550
that forward diff mount you had replaced was the transmission mount?
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w210 amg E55
No - I replaced BOTH the front diff mount (2 rubber plates) AND the transmission mount/carrier = rubber in metall composure, fixated by 2+2 bolts
Unfortuneatly it didn`t solve the problem..As I mentioned before I also replaced the motor mounts and the whole driveshaft incl. a new center bearing + checked all angles according to the official tolerances from MB..
Now, I am at my wits` end.
Last edited by w210e55amgjapan; Jul 11, 2023 at 02:31 PM.
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w210 amg E55
the problem is not about the sound of the wheels but about small chassis vibrations/whobling...
and more or less PSI makes no difference either.
Also no noise at high speed -
kind of grow/rumble may follow these vibrations - but wheels are not wicked hot after a long drive and NO play in the wheel bearings.
Axles make NO clicking/buckling sound at low speed.
and more or less PSI makes no difference either.
Also no noise at high speed -
kind of grow/rumble may follow these vibrations - but wheels are not wicked hot after a long drive and NO play in the wheel bearings.
Axles make NO clicking/buckling sound at low speed.
Last edited by w210e55amgjapan; Jul 11, 2023 at 02:30 PM.
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w210 amg E55
That`s right - the rear subframe bushings I have left.
Just seems to be an uneasy job to get them out, as I like to do repairs myself..
In an accident? Not as I know of.
The car, frame and chassis has no single rust spot and optically seems to be impeccable -
besides some former rubber parts (first motor mounts were shot, center bearling was destrøyed, original wheels were wasted, air condition leakage in tubes somewhere in the front - not solved yet) and a bad u-joint.
Just seems to be an uneasy job to get them out, as I like to do repairs myself..
In an accident? Not as I know of.
The car, frame and chassis has no single rust spot and optically seems to be impeccable -
besides some former rubber parts (first motor mounts were shot, center bearling was destrøyed, original wheels were wasted, air condition leakage in tubes somewhere in the front - not solved yet) and a bad u-joint.
Last edited by w210e55amgjapan; Jul 11, 2023 at 04:25 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,589
Likes: 32
From: Austin Texas!!!
2001 E55 OMG
I think your first post has it being the front bearings at your mileage. I have replaced front bearings and the rear bushings set in the last 2 months along with everything in your list aside from accumulators and diff mount, granted Im over 200K miles. I also bought new shocks and springs, aligned, control arms. tie rods, sway bar bush links etc . My problem finally showed after replacing my bearings and it is a bent front right wheel. Mine is a 65 to 75 shimmy but it doesn't quite go away at higher speeds. Once my new wheels arrive, Ill be able to determine if the chase continues.
My front bearings had play over imperfect roads and 12 and 6 pm so at my mileage replace was the direction. My spindle started to show wear from the loose bearings wear. I have the new ones tightened to .013 mm play on both sides. After that, the wheel vibration really came out. Thats when I went to rebalance and was told about my bent wheel. Still the car felt more solid /responsive/smooth ride up to 60mph so I look forward to new tires and wheels.
While I realize our cars age, Im not certain the rear bushings would be in that bad of shape to cause your issue at your mileage. Also that is definitely a rear drive line shimmy if they are bad.
Another clunking sound culprit in the rear is the control arm outer bushing. Those you feel over speed bumps in rear.
Id look to the bearing tightening procedure first before tacking the subframe bushings. Still examine the subframes cause you never know!
My front bearings had play over imperfect roads and 12 and 6 pm so at my mileage replace was the direction. My spindle started to show wear from the loose bearings wear. I have the new ones tightened to .013 mm play on both sides. After that, the wheel vibration really came out. Thats when I went to rebalance and was told about my bent wheel. Still the car felt more solid /responsive/smooth ride up to 60mph so I look forward to new tires and wheels.
While I realize our cars age, Im not certain the rear bushings would be in that bad of shape to cause your issue at your mileage. Also that is definitely a rear drive line shimmy if they are bad.
Another clunking sound culprit in the rear is the control arm outer bushing. Those you feel over speed bumps in rear.
Id look to the bearing tightening procedure first before tacking the subframe bushings. Still examine the subframes cause you never know!
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w210 amg E55
Now 2 new subframe bushing + new AMG transmission mount
I think your first post has it being the front bearings at your mileage. I have replaced front bearings and the rear bushings set in the last 2 months along with everything in your list aside from accumulators and diff mount, granted Im over 200K miles. I also bought new shocks and springs, aligned, control arms. tie rods, sway bar bush links etc . My problem finally showed after replacing my bearings and it is a bent front right wheel. Mine is a 65 to 75 shimmy but it doesn't quite go away at higher speeds. Once my new wheels arrive, Ill be able to determine if the chase continues.
My front bearings had play over imperfect roads and 12 and 6 pm so at my mileage replace was the direction. My spindle started to show wear from the loose bearings wear. I have the new ones tightened to .013 mm play on both sides. After that, the wheel vibration really came out. Thats when I went to rebalance and was told about my bent wheel. Still the car felt more solid /responsive/smooth ride up to 60mph so I look forward to new tires and wheels.
While I realize our cars age, Im not certain the rear bushings would be in that bad of shape to cause your issue at your mileage. Also that is definitely a rear drive line shimmy if they are bad.
Another clunking sound culprit in the rear is the control arm outer bushing. Those you feel over speed bumps in rear.
Id look to the bearing tightening procedure first before tacking the subframe bushings. Still examine the subframes cause you never know!
My front bearings had play over imperfect roads and 12 and 6 pm so at my mileage replace was the direction. My spindle started to show wear from the loose bearings wear. I have the new ones tightened to .013 mm play on both sides. After that, the wheel vibration really came out. Thats when I went to rebalance and was told about my bent wheel. Still the car felt more solid /responsive/smooth ride up to 60mph so I look forward to new tires and wheels.
While I realize our cars age, Im not certain the rear bushings would be in that bad of shape to cause your issue at your mileage. Also that is definitely a rear drive line shimmy if they are bad.
Another clunking sound culprit in the rear is the control arm outer bushing. Those you feel over speed bumps in rear.
Id look to the bearing tightening procedure first before tacking the subframe bushings. Still examine the subframes cause you never know!
Unfortunately I still have minor bodyvibration and kind of little rough rolling + rolling noise - I guess from the tires (from 65- 80 km/h)....compared with the smooth floating up to 60km/h and from 120km/h upwards.
I also checked all 4 wheelbearings for play (12/6 and 9/3) - but no play..
Control arms. tie rods, sway bar bush links seems to be fine - no play. The car has now 120.000km on the clock - is it reallly possible that one of the wheelbearings is broken ?
I wonder where the error now might be..
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,589
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From: Austin Texas!!!
2001 E55 OMG
I followed the general steps the forum member DDB performed in this W210AMG section. I did not buy the tool he did however I used a combo of 2 floor jacks, a bottle jack, wood blocks and silicone to slip them in. The worst part is hammering the metal sleeve out of the front to which I used a sledge and a crowbar to indent the sleeve then ultimately prying up and out the sleeve with a large screwdriver. On mine the front bushing was separated so the tool would not have helped much in front. Cutting the rubber out was necessary to be able to begin banging on the metal sleeve.
Rears I actually used a long impact 19MM socket placed atop of the busing and used the weight of the car to pop them down. With the fronts done, I placed a 2x4 scrap block atop the fronts to create enough space difference to "press" the rears out. To install, I bottle jack up with the wood block and to thumped in easily.
Rears I actually used a long impact 19MM socket placed atop of the busing and used the weight of the car to pop them down. With the fronts done, I placed a 2x4 scrap block atop the fronts to create enough space difference to "press" the rears out. To install, I bottle jack up with the wood block and to thumped in easily.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,589
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From: Austin Texas!!!
2001 E55 OMG
I replaced and installed 2 new subframe bushings (front ones) and additionally replaced the transmission mount with an AMG upgrade version. I set back the former 4mm shimmy due the new bushings.
Unfortunately I still have minor bodyvibration and kind of little rough rolling + rolling noise - I guess from the tires (from 65- 80 km/h)....compared with the smooth floating up to 60km/h and from 120km/h upwards.
I also checked all 4 wheelbearings for play (12/6 and 9/3) - but no play..
Control arms. tie rods, sway bar bush links seems to be fine - no play. The car has now 120.000km on the clock - is it reallly possible that one of the wheelbearings is broken ?
I wonder where the error now might be..
Unfortunately I still have minor bodyvibration and kind of little rough rolling + rolling noise - I guess from the tires (from 65- 80 km/h)....compared with the smooth floating up to 60km/h and from 120km/h upwards.
I also checked all 4 wheelbearings for play (12/6 and 9/3) - but no play..
Control arms. tie rods, sway bar bush links seems to be fine - no play. The car has now 120.000km on the clock - is it reallly possible that one of the wheelbearings is broken ?
I wonder where the error now might be..
I still feel vibrations are found tires/wheels inward. Wheel bearings would exhibit noise. My worn ones didn't make much noise aside from play mentioned above but the dial gauge did show more loose than not. are these left to right body shakes?
Last edited by Tall Giraffe; Aug 8, 2023 at 08:23 PM.
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w210 amg E55
What did your old bushings look like?
It was quite a hazel to get them out - but they weren`t really bad at all.
I still feel vibrations are found tires/wheels inward. Wheel bearings would exhibit noise. My worn ones didn't make noise but the dial gauge did show more loose than not. are these left to right body shakes?
It was quite a hazel to get them out - but they weren`t really bad at all.
I still feel vibrations are found tires/wheels inward. Wheel bearings would exhibit noise. My worn ones didn't make noise but the dial gauge did show more loose than not. are these left to right body shakes?
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w210 amg E55
After I got 4 new tires - these finally were not the left out reason in my case.
I now found out -
that the 16 bolts on the flex discs of my driveshaft have 2 different types of washers (with different diameter..) which I did not recognized when I installed the new propellshaft - so they where mixed..
My next mistake was that I afterwards installed the bigger washers on the front disc and the smaller ones on the rear disc - and the vibration became worse...:/
These bolts are hexagonal bolts -
I assume I have to put the bigger washer each time on the opposite side of bolts which are in contact with the flansh in order to balance the center of the bolt`s position in the flex disc? (big hexal bolt head + flansh on one side in combination with bolts on the disc sticking out more on the backside possibly need 2 sets of different washers in order to balance the disc..) So the smaller ones on bolts mounted direct on the discs - where the flansh is on the backside.
But as I am not sure - and haven`t found anything about this wired bolt-washer set on the internet - I now ordered 2 new flex discs with 16 bolts (torx) incl. just one type of washers.
I hope that finally will be the solution - I report again when this is installed. As everything else from pinion angles and other potential components has been checked out.
I now found out -
that the 16 bolts on the flex discs of my driveshaft have 2 different types of washers (with different diameter..) which I did not recognized when I installed the new propellshaft - so they where mixed..
My next mistake was that I afterwards installed the bigger washers on the front disc and the smaller ones on the rear disc - and the vibration became worse...:/
These bolts are hexagonal bolts -
I assume I have to put the bigger washer each time on the opposite side of bolts which are in contact with the flansh in order to balance the center of the bolt`s position in the flex disc? (big hexal bolt head + flansh on one side in combination with bolts on the disc sticking out more on the backside possibly need 2 sets of different washers in order to balance the disc..) So the smaller ones on bolts mounted direct on the discs - where the flansh is on the backside.
But as I am not sure - and haven`t found anything about this wired bolt-washer set on the internet - I now ordered 2 new flex discs with 16 bolts (torx) incl. just one type of washers.
I hope that finally will be the solution - I report again when this is installed. As everything else from pinion angles and other potential components has been checked out.
Last edited by w210e55amgjapan; Sep 26, 2023 at 11:27 AM.
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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 63
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From: Waco Texas
1999 E300
Use a dial indicator on wheel bearings
I adjusted my wheel bearings the old-fashioned way and I was getting a vibration but I never thought about the wheel bearings. I checked everything and then I saw an article about vibrations because of wheel bearings. You have to have the 1.5 mm of play, or you will get a vibration.
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w210 amg E55
Finally I solved my Vibration problem..
I changed again the propeller shaft. Now all vibrations are gone!
What I learned - you have to be very careful when handling the shaft - does not need much to damage it and then it will vibrate..
What I learned - you have to be very careful when handling the shaft - does not need much to damage it and then it will vibrate..
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