Lower your E55 by 20mm/ 0.8" for 80 cents!
08-12-2013, 02:06 AM
#228
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
E320
What's the name of your friends shop and you wouldn't happen to know how much he would charge to lower my car with STAR?
04-17-2014, 03:55 AM
#233
Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2008 e550
i wanna do those mods.but out of 267372627 ppl that posted in this thread noone really took some decent pictures or a video.i'm looking at that rear bracket and i really can't imagine what "towards the rear of the car" means.from what i see its a bracket that's 90* and it sits one side horizontal with the ground,and other arme of the bracket perpendicular with the ground.so if the free floating part that sits horiasontal can only be pushed towards the ground or up.and on those 2 pictures of where u put the washers on the front,the most important one is blurry and I can't see ****.also the write up that guy posted on a amg..something forum the server of that link is not loading.can someone post better pictures or explain my retarded *** where and what exactly i should do LOL.i really want to lower a little bit but don't want to break anything.thanks
09-21-2014, 03:27 PM
#234
Member
Since there are no pics, I will try to take some tomorrow when I do the loctite. I just did 3 washers, but wanted to see how it looked before the loctite.
Anyway, Just to clarify, it is the 10mm bolt off by itself that runs through the suspension arm in front of the Airmatic and suspends the sensor arm right?
Just want to make sure I "washered" the right bolt.
Anyway, Just to clarify, it is the 10mm bolt off by itself that runs through the suspension arm in front of the Airmatic and suspends the sensor arm right?
Just want to make sure I "washered" the right bolt.
02-14-2015, 09:39 AM
#238
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
14 Posts
2014 CLS 63 S AMG / 2004 E55 AMG
Yes a bolt will work
You can use a nut... I used a nut and a single washer.
Last edited by moehler; 02-14-2015 at 09:43 AM. Reason: changed bolt to nut...
The following users liked this post:
scotty68 (05-02-2017)
01-21-2016, 02:26 PM
#240
Senior Member
Please someone add a prober picture of the rear level sensor linkage bracket, 200 posts so many pictures of the front but not 1 that clearly shows it but a picture of 2 holes dremel slottet and one where you cant see what is what,
Just to be sure any retarded asses like mine doesn't screw it up kind of vital
Just to be sure any retarded asses like mine doesn't screw it up kind of vital
01-22-2016, 01:22 AM
#242
Senior Member
01-22-2016, 11:57 AM
#243
Senior Member
novice
Ok so finally did the rear myself as well. It was super easy. If anything took the longest to find it and adjust back and forth to desired height.
I just used a large flat head screw driver and slightly pushed on the silver metal bracket toward the rear of the car. I mean SLIGHT... at first I lowered it back down and the rear was tucked! lol... Wasnt to my taste so i bent back a bit the other direction (toward front of car) and got myself a mild drop to better match my front.
Below is a pic of the silver bracket to bend and the resulting pic of my drop (note I went for a very mild drop - you can go tucked if you want very easily).
This is a 5 min mod... I dont see the need for links. The only product I see as an advantage here would be the ELM so you can adjust from inside the car on the fly.
Bracket:
After pic:
I just used a large flat head screw driver and slightly pushed on the silver metal bracket toward the rear of the car. I mean SLIGHT... at first I lowered it back down and the rear was tucked! lol... Wasnt to my taste so i bent back a bit the other direction (toward front of car) and got myself a mild drop to better match my front.
Below is a pic of the silver bracket to bend and the resulting pic of my drop (note I went for a very mild drop - you can go tucked if you want very easily).
This is a 5 min mod... I dont see the need for links. The only product I see as an advantage here would be the ELM so you can adjust from inside the car on the fly.
Bracket:
After pic:
curious if everyone learned YES you always align camber/toe after lowering wait 2-3 Weeks until car has settled proberly, and no I do not believe anyone didn't get uneven wear on their tyres after this sensor ridiculous adding bolts and nuts job...
Why buy a super car and use cheap solutions like this why buying it then?
Last edited by SuperChargerE55; 01-22-2016 at 12:07 PM. Reason: add
01-22-2016, 07:54 PM
#245
Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
2005 E55, GMC Whipple Supercharged Quadrasteer Denali Pickup,Big Bored Hyabusa with nitrous
I did my fronts this way before I had aceess to STAR . Running 20's I was only looking to drop the front a tad. I varied the thickness till I got the exact height I wanted. Once you know what your doing you don't even need to remove the wheels. You can do both fronts in ten minutes. I didn't space mine that much. I ran it that way for two years without any issues. I only changed it because I now have easy access to STAR. Anyone that's had a problem from doing this obviously used too much spacing IMO . As for the rear, I personally wouldn't be a fan of slotting holes. If your rear needs to come down then I'd say just start with the STAR method.
11-27-2016, 04:12 AM
#246
Senior Member
Sorry opening old thread :)
Some of you guys may have seen the thread in 2003 (well before my time) but I just came across a fantastic and idiot-proof method for lowering our E55 "high front / low rear" factory suspension for 80cents and 20 minutes of your time. It beats the $2000 electronic lowering kits from every tuner in the world!
Originally done by guys like EPower and tbone (E500 from E-Class Forum) ...thanks a lot fellows!
For those of you who would rather keep the 2 grand for two sets of new tires or an "inexpensive" diamond ring for your lady, here goes: lift the front end with a jack to expose the aluminum suspension and air spring (no need to remove the wheel). You will see a double lever sensor attached to a metal bracket at the top. Undo the top 10mm nut and remove the small grey bracket with the articulated sensor still attached by a ball-joint. Place 5 to 6mm / 1/4 " worth of small washers under the bracket and re-fit in the reverse order. There isn't enough thread to place any more washers or the nut will not thighten up and you might strip it. Those 6mm will translate into 20 mm drop at the front wheels when you turn on the engine!
In essence, you are fooling the Airmatic DC into believing that the car is sitting 20 mm too high and it will lower itself by the self leveling suspension and stay lowered for as long as the washers are in place. This is a completely reverseable mod. I read the 2002/2003 thread last night, could not believe my eyes and did the job first thing this morning. I now have a totally balanced front and back with exactly identical clearence around all four weels. Handling and turn in has improved as the heavy front of the car dropped the centre of gravity by 20mm, but the ride comfort is unchanged. Once inside, you will immediately notice the new lower front aspect of the car and reach for the seat adjustment to stop "leaning forward".
You can also raise the car by the usual "Raise" button and, stangely enough, it goes up to within 10 mm (rather than -20mm) of it's previous "SUV" setting, so it finds another 10mm somewhere.
This is by far my best mod yet!
The best things in life are free or no more than 80cents!
Originally done by guys like EPower and tbone (E500 from E-Class Forum) ...thanks a lot fellows!
For those of you who would rather keep the 2 grand for two sets of new tires or an "inexpensive" diamond ring for your lady, here goes: lift the front end with a jack to expose the aluminum suspension and air spring (no need to remove the wheel). You will see a double lever sensor attached to a metal bracket at the top. Undo the top 10mm nut and remove the small grey bracket with the articulated sensor still attached by a ball-joint. Place 5 to 6mm / 1/4 " worth of small washers under the bracket and re-fit in the reverse order. There isn't enough thread to place any more washers or the nut will not thighten up and you might strip it. Those 6mm will translate into 20 mm drop at the front wheels when you turn on the engine!
In essence, you are fooling the Airmatic DC into believing that the car is sitting 20 mm too high and it will lower itself by the self leveling suspension and stay lowered for as long as the washers are in place. This is a completely reverseable mod. I read the 2002/2003 thread last night, could not believe my eyes and did the job first thing this morning. I now have a totally balanced front and back with exactly identical clearence around all four weels. Handling and turn in has improved as the heavy front of the car dropped the centre of gravity by 20mm, but the ride comfort is unchanged. Once inside, you will immediately notice the new lower front aspect of the car and reach for the seat adjustment to stop "leaning forward".
You can also raise the car by the usual "Raise" button and, stangely enough, it goes up to within 10 mm (rather than -20mm) of it's previous "SUV" setting, so it finds another 10mm somewhere.
This is by far my best mod yet!
The best things in life are free or no more than 80cents!
05-18-2019, 01:32 PM
#247
Newbie
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
00 s430
Driving your Benz lowered on stock air bags....
yea if you lower it A-LOT. it would rub. i know you get it. it just a funky way of lowering the car. and everybody's "heard" of a problem with this but has anyone talked to a owner of a car that did this and it failled? basically its the people who have bought lowering mods from brabus and such who heard these rummors from people who sell these modules and they help spread the word so the vendors can sell more expensive *** modules that fu$k up your warranty anyway!
Last edited by blue pitbull; 05-18-2019 at 01:40 PM.
05-19-2019, 01:13 AM
#249
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Richmond, CA
Posts: 3,249
Received 255 Likes
on
233 Posts
2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
I have a 01 S430 Benz that is completly stock on 17"rims and 245/45/17 tires.I taped into the compressor power wires and ran the wire into the cab with a toggle switch.I can raise and lower my Benz by using the toggle swith,even when I'm driving.I can go on the freeway and not hit the ground once.Only scrapes going into aprons for driveways..The Benz handles awesome and looks killer"slammed".If I feel it's to low I hit the toggle and raise acorrdingley.Its almost like the Benz was thought off being lowered when manufactured.It has all the plastic skid plates all the way down the under car.My S class is 1/2"off the ground and like I said does not hit the ground...Anywon else out there tried this ?Would like to hear the pros and cons from you people as I will keep you informed should I experience any problems.The only thing I had to deal with was replacing the cv boots due to the camber..
Yes. Just buy some lowering links instead. Using washers is the most ghetto way possible to lower these cars, with lowering links being second. Other options are STAR or a lowering module. They do the same thing as links but with software instead.
I have lowering links on my E63 and haven't had any issues.
Attachment 440374
Last edited by Strigoi; 05-19-2019 at 01:15 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Notheld (05-19-2019)
05-19-2019, 09:06 AM
#250
Super Member
I dont see how one solution would risk the suspension less than the other. One is adjusting the inputs the software sees by changing the mechanical input (washers and links) the other changes the inputs the software is receiving in the software itself (modules and star) both ways resulting in reduced pressure in the suspension. Sacking it is what going to maybe pinch the bag??? premature wear on bushings, ball joints and tyres from misalignment? Not the end of the world but it all adds up.
I like how you tapped into the airmatic lol it reminds me of pumping up air jordans or some sh*t. The under paneling is to stop sh*t getting on everything and rusting also it helps create low pressure under the car which helps keep it stable at high speeds on the lords road the autobahn.
I like how you tapped into the airmatic lol it reminds me of pumping up air jordans or some sh*t. The under paneling is to stop sh*t getting on everything and rusting also it helps create low pressure under the car which helps keep it stable at high speeds on the lords road the autobahn.
