vrus

Based on the dyno graph the A/F ratio looks about right... 12:1 - 12.5:1 in the mid range tapering off to 10:1 at the upper end seems to be the correct graph for this car. Some people will try to remove fuel at the top end to try and make more power but you just end up increasing the heat in the motor and it quickly negates any gains you would have had.

Since those numbers are uncorrected, the corrected ones would be even lower and that is definitely TOO low for a K2 car.

I would suggest you get a datalogger and start getting some numbers for IAT. I use the AUTOTAP product (www.autotap.com) which is very well known. The software has a few quirks but overall it works well.

dragonAMG

Those numbers do look low. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the average K2 is putting out about 470-480 rwhp and 540 - 550 rwtorque, right?

Your car appears to be off about 50 rwhp and approx 70 rwtorque.

dsc

That's my understanding, Dragon AMG. Basically this sucks for 5 months now.

Thanks for the input guys.. Victor, I just ordered the Autotap. I should have it in a few days. Looking forward to some good info. Will the Autotap show if the car is retarding timing?

spectre55

Dont mean to intrude on your post, but since we're pretty much in the same boat-I am attaching my dyno. Any of the resident dyno experts see anything glaring in my dyno. Any feedback would be highly appreciated.

vrus

It is an invaluable tool. You will love it and you can use it in ANY car you have. It will show you timing, boost, IAT and everything else you need. Make sure you have 3.06 of the software and the firmware. If you dont download both from their website and use the latest stuff.

If you have any questions once you receive it, let me know..

First thing is that it looks like the car wasn't in dyno mode when they ran it.. Either that or the wheels were spinning on the dyno. You wont get an accurate dyno run unless you use dyno mode and run it in 4th gear. If this wasn't the case I would take it back and re-dyno to get an accurate reading.

It also looks like they used different methods of doing the pulls (ie. how they depressed the accelerator). There is quite a difference in A/F between BLUE & GREEN RUN. When doing multiple pulls on the dyno its really important that you try to keep everything consistent. Just mash the accelerator right to the floor. Dont roll the throttle or you will get wildly different results between pulls.

Make sure the dyno operator starts recording at 2,000RPM. You dont want to miss the peak torque which occurs somewhere around 2,400RPM - 2,600RPM. You can see on the BLUE pull they recorded at 2,000 but on the GREEN PULL they didnt start recording until 2,600RPM.

Look at the dyno sheet that is in my sig. See how nice and smooth the lines ramp up.. That's what it should look like if all the above is done properly.

spectre55

Thanks for the input VRUS! I put it in dyno mode for them, but I guess they messed it up anyhow. Do you think that this is not an accurate dyno and that if it was properly done that the power would be significantly higher?

vrus

Even if you put it in Dyno mode, you have to make sure the dyno operator manually selects 4TH GEAR. If he leaves it in D, and does the dyno run, it will shift gears and that's where you'll get the torque variances.

Also, another thing I forgot to mention to both of you guys is that the dyno you are using could have fans which are supplying an inadequate amount of air. If they are just using a small fan or even 1 single fan it might not be pushing enough air to supply the motor at 160mph on the dyno.

The real way to test the power is run it down the quarter and look at trap speed or do a timed run on the highway from 60mph - 120mph and record the time. This will be a good indication of whether the car is making good power or not.

spectre55

Cool. Thanks again.

dsc

Victor,
The dyno I posted was done with two snail blowers, about 24 and 28 inches. They produced a lot of velocity and quantity plus the room temp was 50. The radiator was cool to the touch very soon after the pull. I'll get a 1/4 run in when the weather warms up. Have you ever done a dyno test with the Autotap?

Spectre55,
No problem with your posting. I hope you get a good dyno test and the power you're due.

Cory at Kleemann told me on my 2004 not to let the operator punch the pedal all the way. I have a shift switch that will engage. He said to floor it to just when it hits the switch so the trans doesn't shift.

If you press your pedal lightly until it stops and then press it a little harder you can feel the shift switch. I don't know if this is on all years but I do have it. Also, I have the setup that in manual mode if I try to redline, the car will autmatically shift.

hydeaway

DSC - even with the dyno numbers problem you have - does the car feels (faster, way fast, or the same)? Because now im really contemplating on getting the K2 upgrade. Thanks.

dsc

It's tough to tell right now. By the time I got the car "straight" to where it is now the ground was too cold to tell. No traction. I do know one guy I let drive the car said "Holy Adrenaline Rush". Another guy I gave a ride to said (with an actual tear of joy in his eye that he had to wipe away) "How metal make a guy so happy?" A stock E55 might do the same.

Since you're in Chicagoland we might be able to compare side by side. PM if your interested.

ENDSMTG

DSC, I too live in Chicagoland and had been considering Willow to install my lowering module. Please elaborate on what happened to your car. I had spoken to Cory previously and decided to ship both of my cars to CO. But I wasn't aware that Willow was having problems! I saw that several of you recommended KNAUZ, would they be able to install the HTS lowering module?

dsc

The reason I post this is to hopefully prevent this from happening to anyone else.

I’ll try to keep a loooong story short. I picked up my car from Willow Automotive on Sept. 2, 2005 completed with a Kleemann 2 and LSD installation. I didn’t really drive the car until a week later on a trip to Denver, CO. 350 miles into the trip, my car shows errors and disables the ABS, Cruise and ESP. I got to Denver where the Dealer said the speed sensor was mounted improperly (from the LSD install) and fell off resulting in its destruction. They replaced it and even said they have repaired Kleemann cars from Willow installs in the past. I lost 2 days of my vacation with the car. I called Willow and received an attitude (in my opinion) of “why are you calling me?”

When I returned to Chicago my differential was leaking. I called Willow; they said bring it in, which is about 75 minutes from me. They made no offer to pick up the car or drive me home except to drive me to the train because it was on their way. They kept the car a couple of days. When I picked it up (again told me to take a cab at my expense) I drove 1 block and the same errors came on the dash as before. They told me there was nothing wrong from their standpoint and to take it to the Dealer.

I took it to my Dealer who found that the differential was still leaking and had silicone sealant all over the gasket to stop the leak. There was a bunch of stripped and over torqued bolts. And finally they found that Willow had damaged the magnetic speed sensor pickup disc on the half shaft. The Dealer was mad about treating an AMG this way and called Willow who took a crappy attitude which even POed my Service Manager.

The total cost between both repairs was about $5000.00. Some favors were pulled for me and my out of pocket was $800.00. Willow did pay this and no more, no real apologies and a fight that they didn’t believe the Dealer that they told me to take my car to. My dealer repaired my car fine except for the leak that reappeared.

I complained to Kleemann who asked Willow to call and make amends. I received no calls. Kleemann also figured out what was wrong with my differential. There where clips on the vents, adjusted improperly from the LSD install. I didn’t want to bring it back to Willow; Kleemann agreed that they wouldn’t either. The half shafts and cover had to be removed for the clips to be adjusted. The Dealer did it for a cost of $1100.00.

Total damage from Willow… $6100.00 that they only paid $800.00 on. They gave me the worst post installation service I have ever experienced and an attitude of “why are you bothering me?” I was also with out my car for a total of 30 days after the install. I wonder what it would cost Willow to rent me an E55 for 30 days. I have left out many aggravating details as this all happened over about a 4 month period.

ENDSMTG

Thanks for the reply....I was considering Willow for the install of my lowering module, but now I will go elsewhere. This is exactly why I joined this forum...U can't put a price tag on this information. BTW your wife was right...a little more scratch is worth the piece of mind. Any suggestions on where to do the LM?

dsc

Personally I put a spacer kit on the sensors to lower my car. It cost a few hundred and took about 30 minutes to install very easily. The parts are machined to fit exactly and stay in place. After 7,000 miles and 5 months there are no problems. If I want to remove it it will only take 30 minutes.

Aren't the LMs suppose to install easy, like a DYI thing?

ENDSMTG

Might install easy, but I'd rather not risk anything with electronics and these cars. You clip the wrong wire and now you can't turn left anymore or something stupid like that. Once again would rather a pro handle this one, and then I have someone to hold feet to the fire.

jamusa

I have heard everything,but a pully belt being loose.Not saying that this is the problem,but check your belt,remove that cover over the pully,and see if there is any accumulation of black dust from the belt being loose
If there is dust,that could be the culprit.......the car not making boost,results in the computer richening the car to compensate=loss of horsepower.

dsc

Thanks Jamusa. It looks OK, but I will have a pro check it out.

vrus

Did you get your Autotap yet?

dsc

Just got it yesterday. I have to leave for Florida on Business Thursday morning so I really won't get to check it out much. When I get back I'll hook it up to the car. All I have done so far is load the software.

Will this measure boost?

CynCarvin32

I use nology's OBDII data logging software and it is fantastic. Have been having an issue with a C32 track car and needed to get some IAT's and this software was perfect for the track. Recorded 4 30 minute sessions worth of data.

Are the temps for your IAT really never getting above 140?? I know my stock E55 jumps up to nearly 140 degrees every time i hit the gas for more that 3-4 seconds. It does cool off very quickly when I lift but I think 140 is a really low figure and even more impressive if it is warm out.

I do know not know when DME cuts the blower on the 55k motors but I know the 2002 C32's do not cut the blower until intake temps are at 225 (199 degrees on 2003 and 2004 cars). I imagine the 55k motors are similar in nature.

I have had the pumps replaced on both my SL55 and E55 when they failed but neither car ever cuts power anymore so I know the system is working fine.