Completed my first oil change in my recently acquired E55 last night and wanted to share some insights and observations with anyone that's interested.

First, the extended oil change intervals, even with Mobil 1, 0W-40, are truly bogus. My car has just over 9K on the ticker, and the oil had never been changed since it was first driven off the dealer's lot over a year ago. The oil filter used is very, very small (not sure about the actual filter surface area), and the one I removed last night was absolutely and horrifically black and filthy (a new filter is stark white in contrast). We're talking about a seriously high performance engine being lubricated by filthy oil. Not good for the long term. I estimate a 5K oil and filter change interval is the minimum acceptable change interval, and I will probably do it slightly more frequently. Exquisitely engineered engines deserve better than 10K oil changes, particularly since we tend to drive are cars harder than normal drivers do.

Next, there are two oil drain plugs and in order to access both, it is necessary to remove all three sections of undercar engine and transmission screening panels. This was easy to do since they are all secured by 8mm head nuts with wide attached washers.

Before actually draining the oil, it is necessary to remove the oil filter assembly to allow the oil in the oil filter housing to drain back into the block. Of course, the oil should be warm when doing this.

The rear drain plug is very accessible and a gusher of oil shot out when the drain screw was removed. I let it drip until no more flow, and then installed a new replacement drain screw. They come with a thread sealer, and that's why replacement is specified. I'm sure the original could be reused, but the correct replacements are pretty cheap, so I did it right.

The front drain plug is at the very front of the oil pan and is much less accessible since chassis components somewhat block easy access to it. Much less oil drained out of the front portion of the oil pan. I don't really see how a suction oil pump would be able to remove all of the oil since the front of the pan, which is not near the oil dipstick tube (where top drainers are inserted) is lower than the rear of the pan.

With the pans fully drained and resealed, I next assembled the oil filter and changed out all of the supplied O-rings. The oil filter is reinstalled and torqued to 25nm. After that, 9.0 quarts of Mobil 1 0W-40 (the ONLY AMG authorized oil for the engine) and it's good to go. I actually poured in only about 8.75 quarts because I wanted to confirm the fill level since overfilling is a no-no. Since I live in a warmer climate, I'd like to use a slightly heavier oil (maybe a 15W-40 Mobil 1), but 0W-40 is the only approved weight so I guess I will stick with it. BTW, I found the oil at Autozone for a reasonable price.

Finished up with a visual inspection of hoses and fittings and saw no leaks, and then reinstalled the splash shields. Next time will be so much easier since I now know where everything is located.

Anyway, my car's engine is much happier now with clean blood in her veins

 

if you really want to know how much life was left or not left in the oil send a sample out for analysis next time. If you changed it in 1000 miles I wouldn't be surprised if it looked just as bad.

 

Agreed. It's ridiculous to look at oil and attempt to determine it's useful life or ability to do it's job.

To the OP - http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html - the test kit is free, oil analysis is only $20.

 

that's who i use as well. If you happen to have the used oil and you put it into a clean container you can still take a sample just give a good stirring before you do to get a better sample. It wont be perfect but better than nothing.

 

I assume no one who responded thus far has done the oil change themselves on their E55.

As far as an oil analysis, this is from Blackstone's website:

>>Blackstone's standard analysis will tell you what you need to know about the condition of your engine and how it's wearing. The standard analysis costs $20 and includes the following:

Spectral Exam: Establishes the levels of wear metals, silicon, and additives present in the oil. Also checks for coolant.

Viscosity: Determines the grade of oil.

Insolubles: Quantifies the percentage of solids present in the oil.

Flash Point: Determines the flash point of the oil. We use the flash point to determine whether any contamination is present in the oil (determined when the flash is lower than the "should be" range).<<

I don't really see anything in the testing results noted above that will tell me how many miles or months are left before an oil change is needed. Can anyone clue me in on what specific oil test results should be considered in making such a determination?

 

I don't own a 55k, but I do my own oil changes. At 5k, its usually pretty dark. It also depends on how you drive the vehicle. With a heavy foot, more frequent oil changes are recommended.

 

No oil analysis is going to tell you how many miles or months you have left but it will tell you if the oil is still within original spec. You can also order an optional test called a Total Baseline Number (TBN) which will tell you how much of the additive package is remaining. Also the results come back with a narrative specific to your sample and you can ask questions by calling them up. I have several test results if you would like to see one, they are from my boat but you will get the idea. i would post them but I don't think you can post a .pdf so send me a pm with your email.

Another thing they do is compare your sample to others they have taken from the same engines and the more they do the better the reference, they call that universal averages.

The viscosity will tell you if the oil is still capable of doing its job, flashpoint is good for possible fuel dilution, and by all the levels of the different metals they can tell you if the engine is wearing normally or if a potential problem is down the road.

Anyway its well worth the money and it is the only was to tell if you changed to oil prematurely or if you waited to long. The other side of the coin is unless you are planning on keeping the car well past 100,000 miles it really doesn't matter if you do it every 5000, 10000, or 15000.

 

My sister works at this company called National Tribology Services.

Their website is: http://www.natrib.com/

I think I am going to give her a sample of my oil in my E55 and see if she can tell me anything. Is there anything I should ask her for? Maybe this will shed some light on us E55 owners as to when we need to change our oil and if the recommmended factory oil change is bogus.

 

I do my own oil change as well at least in between warranty interval so it gets changed every 5000 miles.

Color, smell, and viscosity can tell a lot since that is how we car-enthusiasts and mechanics judge it.

At the same time, I do agree for true analysis, a test will be good.

 

that SS must be a rocket!!! What does it have in it?

 

I rember hearing that with the advent of the w210 that the cars no longer came with dipsticks, and I worked on a r129 that didn't have a dipstick for the tranny. has this changed? When filling the oil, how do you check the level in these newer cars? dash read out?

 

yup!
1. Turn key to position 1
2. Make sure display is on MPH setting.
3. Press reset button on left side of dash 3 times
4. You will see UV: voltage reading
5. Press up arrow. You will see some software codes but at the bottom you will see exact oil quantity in the sump.
6. Turn key to position 2 and it will bring up oil amount in exact quarts in the sump. Make sure car has been off for a couple of hours to get an accurate reading.

You can even start the car in this mode and see the oil level drop as it circulates through the engine. All in all much better data to work with than the simple "oil level is fine indicator"

7. Turn ignition all the way off to exit the service mode.

 

I know the oil fill capacity with filter change is 9 quarts. Some oil always remains in the oil filter housing. Thus, what is the amount of oil that should be displayed when you do the procedure you've described?

Maybe it's just me, but I had no problem checking an oil dipstick . . .

 

Apparently that is SOooo 20th century. I trust my eyes reading an oil film level on a strip of steel more than I do an electronic sensor burried in the hot and vibrating engine.

 

My car is due for Service C. Any idea how much that's going to cost me? Arm? Leg? It's lame they're not free anymore. I feel like I bought a Ford taking into service instead of a $90k car.

 

Thanks! Unless it is at a traffic light, then it's a pig since it just spin the tires with a little throttle. LOL

Here is a brief description of what I have:

Nu-tek 396 (fully forged, 9.2 CR, JE pistons, Callies crank and 4 bolt main, and machined and assembled by Nu-tek), maxed Vortech S-Trim with aftercooler and mustang ice tank, 72 lb/hr Seimens Injectors, Acceleronics Impedance Box, Custom dyno tuning by LT1 Edit, AFPR, Walbro 340M FP, Modern Musclecar Voltblaster, AFR 190 Heads, Ferrea 1.6” 2.055”, Custom grind Comp cam (229:242-114), Gold Crane 1.5 Race Rocker Arms, Accel 1000cfm TB, Jet Hot Hooker Long Tubes, Custom 3” off-road Y-pipe, Custom 4” exhaust into a Magnaflow, TR6 plugs, MSD 8.5mm wires, new Optispark, Meziere heavy duty WP and 160'C Thermostat, Bilstein (F)-Hal(R) adjustable, Hothkis springs-panhard rod-trailer arms-sway bars, Richmond 3.73, Jeff Steven’s KTRE 12-bolt, KB Double Diamond SFC, Baer Racing Track Kit (Cross-drilled, slotted, zinc washed, and cryotreated) with Porterfield R4S pads, ET Street, DGM Ground effect with WW air dam, 2000 watts sound system, etc.

FOR SALE. Don't have time to enjoy this anymore. Great track car and really fast drag car.

 

Strange thing happened to me this weekend -
After a somewhat long drive (about an hour of cruising) a warning flashed up on the dash and very calmly notified me to add one quart of oil on my next refuel. I took note of it and kept driving.

After restarting my car at least 3 or 4 times since, the warning never came back. Earlier tonight I scrolled to the oil level check on the dash and after a moment it came up saying "Oil level ok!" Right after that I headed to the gas station and did the check again. This time it said "Add 2 qts. of oil to reach maximum level!"

Whats going on here? Anyone have any ideas about these mixed signals?

 

bump - any help?

 

My oil sensor has been doing funny stuff like that and finally went kaput. I took it in for service and it was a bad oil sensor. No problem since. BTW it took a month to get the part from Germany.

 

Yeesh. Ok Ill take it in asap. Thanks.

 

Thats just the thing - How often do you see a dipstick fail ... ?

Its overcomplication of something simple ... and leaves another thing to go wrong ... sure its fun to see a figure on your dash say "add 1 qrt please" but is that worth the chance of a total failure in the sensor - then what ? "Add 9 qrts please" ?

Sometimes these engineers try too hard...

I'd rather have a dipstick and a 100% reliable braking system thankyou ...

 

You can buy a dipstick from the dealer, although it costs about $100.00. It's marked only in mm, so you have to find out what the correct measurement is.

Can you guys check your owners manuals for oil amount? My S55 shows 7.9 quarts for the 55 motor and 8.5 for the 500 motor.

Does the E actually take more oil?

 

I agree...too much technological intervention. Sometimes our hands are the best tools.