W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

wire the ic pump to a switched 12V source?

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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 08:20 PM
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wire the ic pump to a switched 12V source?

anyone know how to do this? write up? Im going to dyno sunday, and this might be helpful
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 10:05 PM
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In the driverside engine fuse box is a switched 12v signal. It's a red wire in the plug behind the last gray relay.


With that you can run a wire direct to the pump if you have the factory bosh pump. The funny thing about our cars is that the ic pump relay is located in the trunk which makes running a ground switch to cabin a little harder. Hope this helps.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 10:48 PM
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I would suggest the addition of a relay as the pump is a high current unit.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 11:14 PM
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rflow: thanks, I might rig up something temporary for the dyno. Is it the wire with the blue tap on it?

I dont know much about relays and such, so i wouldnt know where to begin on that. All I know is + and -. haha

Last edited by psk145; Feb 14, 2007 at 11:16 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by psk145
rflow: thanks, I might rig up something temporary for the dyno.

I dont know much about relays and such, so i wouldnt know where to begin on that. All I know is + and -. haha
I would throw in a relay as well. You don't want to cause electrical issues just for a good dyno run. Consider having a shop do the wiring. It is as simple as running the switched wire to the pump and using that to run the pump vs the wires that are currently connected. That way, the pump is on whenever the car is on. Something to consider if you are going that route. The OEM unit will not last long if you put it on a switched line. The unit is just a weak link and burns out after a few hours of use. Obviously a replacement (or upgraded) pump is an option as well. Another option is to throw a switch on it so you can control the on / off, but then what do you do when you drive around?

In short, the only real advantage to doing the rewire is that the car will cool off faster between dyno runs or even before the first run while it is sitting at idle. It all depends what you are trying to do. If you want a real life number, then leave it be. If you want a huge number just to feel better, then go for it.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 11:37 PM
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maybe I'll just leave it then and see. Sunday is going to be the big day to see what my car actually does.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 11:43 PM
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I say leave it bro. Later, you can choose to switch out the IC or even just upgrade the pump and have it run hot.

Since the ECU controls the pump, why don't one of these $3K ECU mods address that?
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jangy
I say leave it bro. Later, you can choose to switch out the IC or even just upgrade the pump and have it run hot.

Since the ECU controls the pump, why don't one of these $3K ECU mods address that?
its probably and extra $2000 to do that
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by psk145
its probably and extra $2000 to do that

LOL!! I'm starting to wonder what the heck they do but advance the timing and raise the limiter? That is a straight rip off.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 05:33 AM
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Can't this be done in STAR or ECU programming to turn on pump permanently when motor is running ?

Last edited by stevebez; Feb 15, 2007 at 05:38 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by psk145
rflow: thanks, I might rig up something temporary for the dyno. Is it the wire with the blue tap on it?

I dont know much about relays and such, so i wouldnt know where to begin on that. All I know is + and -. haha
Yes the wire with the blue tap.
I am sorry, i assumed you wanted just to test on the dyno from the beginning and not make it a permanent install. Leaving the pump running on the dyno with a fan on will keep heat soak down. If it is long term solution then you need a 30 amp relay and an in-line fuse like sunman said.

You can get a 30 amp relay from the auto-parts store and follow the instructions in the link below. The relay you buy at the store will have numbers just like the one below.

http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rflow306
Yes the wire with the blue tap.
I am sorry, i assumed you wanted just to test on the dyno from the beginning and not make it a permanent install. Leaving the pump running on the dyno with a fan on will keep heat soak down. If it is long term solution then you need a 30 amp relay and an in-line fuse like sunman said.

You can get a 30 amp relay from the auto-parts store and follow the instructions in the link below. The relay you buy at the store will have numbers just like the one below.

http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm

I got the relay, but mine has two "87 terminals". One is yellow and the other red. Which would I use to run to the IC pump??
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by psk145
I got the relay, but mine has two "87 terminals". One is yellow and the other red. Which would I use to run to the IC pump??
One should say 87a for accessory which would go to the pump and the other to your 12v supply . Yellow should be accessory (pump) and red constant 12v supply to the relay.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rflow306
One should say 87a for accessory which would go to the pump and the other to your 12v supply . Yellow should be accessory (pump) and red constant 12v supply to the relay.

I thought the 30 lead was for the 12v source?
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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Were is your second 87 terminal. If you have a 30 terminal then the terminal opposite is your accessory(pump). The one to the left would be your switched ignition and opposite that your ground. Does your relay have five prongs ? If it has 5 you ignore the center one, which would be 87a.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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The best way to do it, is to run a relay which turns on by any of the "Key 1" position circuits. This is how my CM90 has been hooked up for the last four years and 90,000 miles. To make the pump run all I have to do is to turn the key to "1" position and I can hear hear buzz in the background.

Charles, on the dyno you are not likely to see any benefit. How many fans, how big the fans are and whether the shop knows how to run 55s on the dyno will likely determine whether you get proper dyno number or not.

If you need any help call me, I am not too far.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rflow306
If it has 5 you ignore the center one, which would be 87a.
It is 5 prongs, so 87a is out. THANKS


Originally Posted by Vadim @ VRP
Charles, on the dyno you are not likely to see any benefit.
I guess its a bit of cabin fever I have going here. I havent messed with my car for a while, so Im looking for something to do! Thanks for the offer
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