e1000

no kidding, can't wait for the money shot where we see a dyno

Finny

The map will stay where it is and the second air temp sensor is non applicable in our 55 application. After looking at the SLR wiring the computer obviously uses 2 sensors. The SLR electronics are slightly more advanced or over kill compared to our units but similar in operation. It suites its own application.

I can't really see the temperature difference being a critical issue as one sample from the charger should be adequate enough to indicate total cooler outlet temperature accurately and uniformly.

On the 55, the sample is taken centrally from the manifold close to the cooler outlet. As long as water flow is distributed equally to the 2 SLR coolers there shouldn't be any deviation problems. Of course if two sensors are used that minute difference between coolers would be calculated instantly and the apparent action taken by the computer.

I don't think that a small temperature deviation between the two coolers is critical enough to affect our application. Knock on wood...Ha Ha... I will sample the water inlet temperatures via a dual digital thermistor set up just to make sure that the temps are equal initially, otherwise I'll correct any indifference here.

Finny

Managed to finally fix the trany problem up... The photos tell the story...


This is the offender, notice the torx bolt at the base of the clutch which is bolted into the bell housing via the cast oil pump... This ***** decided to come lose.


It worked it's way up into the K1 clutch assembly chewing the base off like a lathe and spewing alloy particles throughout the tranz. Notice where it finally cracked a ring at the base. The tranz then threw an error basically saying the output sensor doesn't match the input sensor... Dah!!! The outer ring section is actually the sensors trigger.


This is where the K1 is positioned in respect to final assembly.


The new K1 housing from Silver Star Transmissions in the US. Good service!


The clutches are compressed with this tool and a measurement is taken to calculate the final factory clearances where a certain thickness circlip is installed to hold the clutches in position.


All ready to go home...

Next... off to the Dyno.

e1000

siswati

Finny
as your number one fan and seeing as I am a professional photographer, I have to complement you not only on your modding skills and generous info-sharing, but I must complement you on really great documentary photography.

The image quality is exceptional, the views and perspectives are well chosen, and they do such a great job of illustrating the process / journey.

This information that you have shared with us, is literally priceless. Many thanks

DFW01E55

Great work Finny.
I can only imagine the trouble that would be encountered if you were at the mercy of a dealer for this type of diagnosis and repair.

TruTaing

++++ I dont even own a w211, but this thread is just awesome for all the info it provides. Many thanks for sharing. Especially, with great pictures to boot!

Finny

Thanks Mate! No probs, more than happy to document the process without the heavy jargon so anyone can understand what the story is. I don't think it's really rocket science but it's all been done before just in another flavor. Anyway I'm just putting back in as over the years I have got a lot more out combing through the threads... you get to see everything here... Ha Ha...

Photography is one of my other passion which I have been involved with over the last 20 or so years from film to digital. I'm currently using a Cannon 1ds mkIII body with the usual mix of lenses. Everything is shot in raw then tweaked in Aperture. Raw allows me +/- 1 or two stops of exposure control giving more flexible exposure. I usually shoot at 1.2 to 2.8 to blow the background out and focus on the subject to get the details. I'm still trying to perfect the art!!! Love it!

Hey, how about photo thread for all the snappers where we critique the hell out of each others work so we can all learn more tricks about shooting cars? Brainstorming here...



Guaranteed you would get ripped a new one!



Thanks! A pleasure, Enjoy!


It's Friday 7am in the morning and I'm a bit grumpy. Been on the Dyno since 11pm yesterday and it hasn't gone all my way so tonight or Saturday I'll post up a progress report when I'm a bit more energetic.... Zzzzzz

siswati

Sounds like apart from the regular fast 2.8 glass, you must also have Canon's 85mm f1.2 beauty. A really great lens - had several shooters at my nude and glamour photography workshops and private classses over the past year that have that lovely piece of glass. Makes for razor sharp images with VERY shallow DOF. Nikon's 85mm 1.4 isnt quite the same but still a stunning lens nevertheless

And Finny you will love this shot - taken with the 85mm 1.2, shot by one of my students, Anil Sethi (also a car guy who owns a super fast NSX and owns a Benneton F1 race car!!!!) This was his first time ever shooting glamour - he got to work with one of my favorite models Rachael - a stunning Ozzie model who lived in Ft Lauderdale and then moved to LA to be on VH-1's show - "Americas most smartest model"



Will have to look you up when I am in Australia in early May

aleksandar1099

Can't wait to see results !!!!

Looks unbelievable!!!!

Finny

The Nikon hardware, don't get them started.. Ha... Ha... Although a Canon fan, I must admit that the new Nikon body has unbelievable sensitivity I just hope this is incorporated into the new MK IV body next time. The 85mm 1.2 is my favorite lens, second is the 200-70 2.8 IS with the 2x adapter... many uses here. Just been playing with a tilt shift lens recently which is very interesting... Still trying to get my head around this one though...

Interesting, a smart beauty... She's a babe! Excellent first time shot, your student obviously has a brilliant mentor This is a very nice capture. Technically perfect, exposure etc... I really like the smile, very candid not posed although shot in the studio... Eye whites seem to be whitened excessively? or could it be from reduction to jpeg? Otherwise beautiful shot.

PM me re visiting Australia and I'll send you my Email address.

Finny

G'day all...

Set the car up on the dyno at Initial D Racing's work shop owned by 6 cylinder turbo legend Danny Bresciani who is a tuning genius but unfortunately not with Euro based computers, more so with custom racing setups like Motec etc... Danny will run the dyno tonight.

On the first run the tires started to burnout so 20 psi extra went into each tire which seemed to fix the problem.

On the second run the ESP carried on so we then put it in dyno mode... Dah!...

We did a few more runs with unsatisfactory results. Firstly, before the Trans repair the PSI gauge measured 18 and the DAS box confirmed this as well. This was about the time where the Engine and Trans went into limp mode after a few hard runs, then on the third dyno run we could only achieve 15 psi on the dyno and the internal digital gauge measured the same... WTF?... Leaking?... so after doing all the usual checks etc... could find no other problems with the hardware.

We then took it for a road test and achieved the same psi of 15 with the car feeling allot weaker up top. If you view the A/F ratios you will notice 10:1 which is pig rich, if this was 12.5 with 3 more lbs it would pull substantially harder even more harder with SLR coolers.

My theory at the moment is that when the Trans speed output sensor on K1 was intermittent somehow the TCU reported the speed or toque reading at a lower figure resulting in the BP fully shutting... only speculation though... At the moment I have a number of individuals working on the software problem and hopefully the next base run will show an overall improvement.

You may notice on the graphs that in the beginning that it looks like a three year old scribbled all over the chart... well thats the throttle blipping problem showing its jerking behavior which is quite violent. This is also being addressed.

Back next time, hopefully with better results.... Anyway the best pull was 465rwh....



Danny's Dyno room looking through a 78 Camaro with a 700hp Shafiroff Big Dwag mill old school style.




My mate, Big Cam attending for moral support.



Burnout marks on the dyno... I was told, in future don't run in slicks as they slip on the dyno. One would of thought the opposite???



Must get a set of ear muffs, it was freeken loud in here.



Danny running the show.



You can see that the car is actually green in here... Oh forgot my sunglasses...



Vacuum/Boost, Temp and DAS all hooked up.



Non healthy Air fuel result...



Boost Result... Looks like a wood saw blade. Not happy

blackbenzz

Wow, that is a badass shop!!! I hope you get it all figured out soon

siswati

Awesome shop
And yup - extreme modding isn't for the faint of heart. So many think its a walk in the park and don't have the staying power to see it through. This thread should be required reading to all that want to embark on serious mods!

Finny - hope you get this resolved real soon - keep us posted - and I will let you know when I am coming to OZ!

Havoc

Nice pics Finny!!

Thanks for the updates and looking forward to better results!

HYEPWR

Look at the bright side---Definately room to improve.

11psi at 6000+rpm....465rwhp is right on target. AFR is not that off Finny....maybe 2-3% more HP at 12.5 than 10.5........but that STUPID ECU is definately causing that boost loss.

If I didnt know you had a belt wrap kit+extra tensionor---I would think you were getting belt slip----that zig zag looks like belt slip---except ITS NOT......its that stupid Bypass valve opening and closing!!

why not just power the bypass valve directly to the 12v power so it stays shut. Do a dyno run and see if that gets rid of your "table saw"-----Since your torque limits have already been raised; the tcu shouldnt give you a problem.


Why do these silly Germans make it soooooooo hard for us to destroy our cars!!!

Finny

Yeah, it's the ECU causing the dramas but that was expected on the first run.

I've got the experts on it now so it won't be long until the next attempt...

I'll post the details up soon.

Finny

I think you may mistaken as mine is a factory e55K so no conversion but I appreciate your help anyway!

The software problem has been sorted... a long story with politics and other BS which I don't care to mention but I will say that the car runs very strong & healthy.

All the dyno results, track times and photos will be posted together when ready. This will be the base figure until the next major upgrade.

Cheers...

jmf003

Finny, this post of yours intrigued me enough to try to put together my own DAS setup. I bought the software from John and am assembling the other necessary bits. My interactions with John have been terrific. He also said to pass along his regards to you:

Jakpro1

Hey Finny, not sure if you are still around today....er ehhhh tomorrow down there...

But quick question. Does it matter what front plug wire you pull off of. Meaning I noticed he snagged YOUR drivers side front....while in the past I have had guys pull from MY drivers side front wire (your passenger)

Just making sure I am doing this right when on the dyno.

As usual...the pics and your setup are always

Finny

So how did you go? All worked well?


Not sure what you mean by front plug? No spark plug cables were pulled. Do you mean the air inlet sensor?

Still around by the way, just been busy on other stuff. Managed to fix the software problem and I'll write about it later.

The car pulled a flat 12.06 on 19" stock tires @ 121 mph with ESP on. 60ft was crap though... Stalled then hooked up.

If I could get the 60ft down to say 1.7 or a 300th saving, it may be good for another 600th off which would make a 11.4 in theory considering the mph... Any suggestions?


Slicks next time...



55 right lane...

V12Godspeed

Vinny, Congrats!! Those are some hot times. Are you stock?...I know you are just getting a baseline so you must be. Next time definitely do the Drag Radials as these will make a big improvement in ET's.

jmf003

Everything worked great!

I bought a multiplexer (an actual Actia unit, version D2) and cables on Ebay for a modest amount of money. Everything worked perfectly when cabled together and connected to my car.

I reset a lingering SRS fault code (related to removing the passenger seat for a 1/4 mile run), did the 10C fan mod, and some general looking around. All good stuff.

It's a great piece of equipment for anyone who likes to work on his own car.

Great results given your car hesitated before hooking up!

ESP off produces better ETs and trap speeds for me. There's a greater risk of spinning the tires with ESP off, of course, but nothing your right foot can't manage. Drag radials help, too.

Looking forward to reading your next post on your results!

Oxygen

The name is Finny bro... not Vinny.

Oxygen

Finny - fantastic thread, pleasure to read...