The Perfect Drag!
#1
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The Perfect Drag!
For all of you experienced dragsters. Sorry I keep hijacking your threads .
What are the BEST conditions aside from the obvious, like the condition of the track.
1. TEMP (LOW) what is the best temp?
2. Humidity ( Low) What is prime humidity?
3. Pressure (high) What is prime pressure
4. Wind (high) at your rear! or better to have ZERO wind.
5. Altitude (0 feet) or Death Valley- 120 ft below sea level
Car
1. What temp? over 100 C under 100 C
2. Tires(stock) High psi? Low?
3. Weight? Everything removed, is there a calculation to see your time if you were not FAT!
4. Fuel? I am told 93 and above does nada for a stock vehicle due to ECU?
5. Octane booster? Do they do anything?
Anybody get near the pristine .000 reaction times?
Last question
Do you win the drag if you cross the line first even if the other driver has a better time?
TIA to all of you that have been taking time to answer my questions in other threads.
What are the BEST conditions aside from the obvious, like the condition of the track.
1. TEMP (LOW) what is the best temp?
2. Humidity ( Low) What is prime humidity?
3. Pressure (high) What is prime pressure
4. Wind (high) at your rear! or better to have ZERO wind.
5. Altitude (0 feet) or Death Valley- 120 ft below sea level
Car
1. What temp? over 100 C under 100 C
2. Tires(stock) High psi? Low?
3. Weight? Everything removed, is there a calculation to see your time if you were not FAT!
4. Fuel? I am told 93 and above does nada for a stock vehicle due to ECU?
5. Octane booster? Do they do anything?
Anybody get near the pristine .000 reaction times?
Last question
Do you win the drag if you cross the line first even if the other driver has a better time?
TIA to all of you that have been taking time to answer my questions in other threads.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
For all of you experienced dragsters. Sorry I keep hijacking your threads .
What are the BEST conditions aside from the obvious, like the condition of the track.
1. TEMP (LOW) what is the best temp?
2. Humidity ( Low) What is prime humidity?
3. Pressure (high) What is prime pressure
4. Wind (high) at your rear! or better to have ZERO wind.
5. Altitude (0 feet) or Death Valley- 120 ft below sea level
Car
1. What temp? over 100 C under 100 C
2. Tires(stock) High psi? Low?
3. Weight? Everything removed, is there a calculation to see your time if you were not FAT!
4. Fuel? I am told 93 and above does nada for a stock vehicle due to ECU?
5. Octane booster? Do they do anything?
Anybody get near the pristine .000 reaction times?
Last question
Do you win the drag if you cross the line first even if the other driver has a better time?
TIA to all of you that have been taking time to answer my questions in other threads.
What are the BEST conditions aside from the obvious, like the condition of the track.
1. TEMP (LOW) what is the best temp?
2. Humidity ( Low) What is prime humidity?
3. Pressure (high) What is prime pressure
4. Wind (high) at your rear! or better to have ZERO wind.
5. Altitude (0 feet) or Death Valley- 120 ft below sea level
Car
1. What temp? over 100 C under 100 C
2. Tires(stock) High psi? Low?
3. Weight? Everything removed, is there a calculation to see your time if you were not FAT!
4. Fuel? I am told 93 and above does nada for a stock vehicle due to ECU?
5. Octane booster? Do they do anything?
Anybody get near the pristine .000 reaction times?
Last question
Do you win the drag if you cross the line first even if the other driver has a better time?
TIA to all of you that have been taking time to answer my questions in other threads.
One last q?
If I get a set of drag radials how do I get em on at the track? Do they have a mobile tire guy ?
#4
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#5
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W211 E55
1. TEMP (LOW) what is the best temp?
Lower is better, until the temp starts affecting your tires (~35f) For each 11F degree drop, you gain about 1% power.
2. Humidity ( Low) What is prime humidity?
Lower is better. Water in the air takes up the space of oxygen needed for combustion.
3. Pressure (high) What is prime pressure
Higher is better. More pressure means more air forced in your motor.
4. Wind (high) at your rear! or better to have ZERO wind.
Tailwind, baby. Aero drag is substantial on the big end of the track.
5. Altitude (0 feet) or Death Valley- 120 ft below sea level
Death Valley - See #3
Car
1. What temp? over 100 C under 100 C
Under. Cooler makes more HP
2. Tires(stock) High psi? Low?
45 psi front 22 psi rear. Lower rolling resistance in front, greater contact patch in rear.
3. Weight? Everything removed, is there a calculation to see your time if you were not FAT!
Lighter = faster. For every 100 pounds removed, you gain roughly a tenth on our cars.
4. Fuel? I am told 93 and above does nada for a stock vehicle due to ECU?
Without ECU mods, waste of time running over 93
5. Octane booster? Do they do anything?
Only if you are experiencing detonation. See above.
Anybody get near the pristine .000 reaction times?
In my 1000+ passes, I have 4 perfect lights, and over a dozen 001's and 501's (sportsman tree)
Last question
Do you win the drag if you cross the line first even if the other driver has a better time?
Unless you are running an index class or a bracket, yes.
TIA to all of you that have been taking time to answer my questions in other threads.
Lower is better, until the temp starts affecting your tires (~35f) For each 11F degree drop, you gain about 1% power.
2. Humidity ( Low) What is prime humidity?
Lower is better. Water in the air takes up the space of oxygen needed for combustion.
3. Pressure (high) What is prime pressure
Higher is better. More pressure means more air forced in your motor.
4. Wind (high) at your rear! or better to have ZERO wind.
Tailwind, baby. Aero drag is substantial on the big end of the track.
5. Altitude (0 feet) or Death Valley- 120 ft below sea level
Death Valley - See #3
Car
1. What temp? over 100 C under 100 C
Under. Cooler makes more HP
2. Tires(stock) High psi? Low?
45 psi front 22 psi rear. Lower rolling resistance in front, greater contact patch in rear.
3. Weight? Everything removed, is there a calculation to see your time if you were not FAT!
Lighter = faster. For every 100 pounds removed, you gain roughly a tenth on our cars.
4. Fuel? I am told 93 and above does nada for a stock vehicle due to ECU?
Without ECU mods, waste of time running over 93
5. Octane booster? Do they do anything?
Only if you are experiencing detonation. See above.
Anybody get near the pristine .000 reaction times?
In my 1000+ passes, I have 4 perfect lights, and over a dozen 001's and 501's (sportsman tree)
Last question
Do you win the drag if you cross the line first even if the other driver has a better time?
Unless you are running an index class or a bracket, yes.
TIA to all of you that have been taking time to answer my questions in other threads.
#7
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'06 E55, '05 SLK55, a few others
I have not seen any improvement with temps below ~ 50 deg. F. In fact, too low a temp and it really does affect your tires. If it's ball freezing cold out, definitely do a burn out and warm your tires or your 60' times will suck. A tail wind can do amazing things for your trap speeds. CX is spot on.
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#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by juicee63
1. TEMP (LOW) what is the best temp?
Lower is better, until the temp starts affecting your tires (~35f) For each 11F degree drop, you gain about 1% power.
2. Humidity ( Low) What is prime humidity?
Lower is better. Water in the air takes up the space of oxygen needed for combustion.
3. Pressure (high) What is prime pressure
Higher is better. More pressure means more air forced in your motor.
4. Wind (high) at your rear! or better to have ZERO wind.
Tailwind, baby. Aero drag is substantial on the big end of the track.
5. Altitude (0 feet) or Death Valley- 120 ft below sea level
Death Valley - See #3
Car
1. What temp? over 100 C under 100 C
Under. Cooler makes more HP
2. Tires(stock) High psi? Low?
45 psi front 22 psi rear. Lower rolling resistance in front, greater contact patch in rear.
3. Weight? Everything removed, is there a calculation to see your time if you were not FAT!
Lighter = faster. For every 100 pounds removed, you gain roughly a tenth on our cars.
4. Fuel? I am told 93 and above does nada for a stock vehicle due to ECU?
Without ECU mods, waste of time running over 93
5. Octane booster? Do they do anything?
Only if you are experiencing detonation. See above.
Anybody get near the pristine .000 reaction times?
In my 1000+ passes, I have 4 perfect lights, and over a dozen 001's and 501's (sportsman tree)
Last question
Do you win the drag if you cross the line first even if the other driver has a better time?
Unless you are running an index class or a bracket, yes.
Thanks Chicago !!!!!
Ok , so I am going to lower my tp on the rears and raise on the front. I will remove as much weight as possible. Keep the car cool, I guess spin the rears away from the water! LOL I think I splashed the pit guy on my first run no wonder they were yelling! Car on comfort suspension to get best weight transfer to rear wheels. Power brake to get maximum torque assuming I have traction. Manual, paddles. ESP off if possible. Keep the temp at 60f , no octane booster. 1/4 tank or lower. High pressure, low humidity, car under 100c. Man this is gonna be fun.
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
good info chicago...i only question both #2 statements.
i don't know the optimum percent but humidity also acts to cool charge air so some humidity is a good thing.
you're right, rear tire pressure should be at a psi that promotes the largest contact patch. if the pressure is too low it will cup the center and prevent this so imho, you don't want to be too far off from the recommended psi on street tires...especially because of the heavy weight of our cars. i would guess that's going to be closer to 30 psi, give or take depending on conditions.
juicee,
launches with the 55's has proven to yield better 60ft times by leaving from idle WITHOUT power braking or stalling the converter. srt8 guys are slow learners or just hard headed but the few that have finally tried the technique are also finding this to be true...so i'd be willing to bet the 63's are no different. experiment and let us know what you think works best.
i don't know the optimum percent but humidity also acts to cool charge air so some humidity is a good thing.
you're right, rear tire pressure should be at a psi that promotes the largest contact patch. if the pressure is too low it will cup the center and prevent this so imho, you don't want to be too far off from the recommended psi on street tires...especially because of the heavy weight of our cars. i would guess that's going to be closer to 30 psi, give or take depending on conditions.
juicee,
launches with the 55's has proven to yield better 60ft times by leaving from idle WITHOUT power braking or stalling the converter. srt8 guys are slow learners or just hard headed but the few that have finally tried the technique are also finding this to be true...so i'd be willing to bet the 63's are no different. experiment and let us know what you think works best.
#12
Senior Member
good info chicago...i only question both #2 statements.
i don't know the optimum percent but humidity also acts to cool charge air so some humidity is a good thing.
you're right, rear tire pressure should be at a psi that promotes the largest contact patch. if the pressure is too low it will cup the center and prevent this so imho, you don't want to be too far off from the recommended psi on street tires...especially because of the heavy weight of our cars. i would guess that's going to be closer to 30 psi, give or take depending on conditions.
juicee,
launches with the 55's has proven to yield better 60ft times by leaving from idle WITHOUT power braking or stalling the converter. srt8 guys are slow learners or just hard headed but the few that have finally tried the technique are also finding this to be true...so i'd be willing to bet the 63's are no different. experiment and let us know what you think works best.
i don't know the optimum percent but humidity also acts to cool charge air so some humidity is a good thing.
you're right, rear tire pressure should be at a psi that promotes the largest contact patch. if the pressure is too low it will cup the center and prevent this so imho, you don't want to be too far off from the recommended psi on street tires...especially because of the heavy weight of our cars. i would guess that's going to be closer to 30 psi, give or take depending on conditions.
juicee,
launches with the 55's has proven to yield better 60ft times by leaving from idle WITHOUT power braking or stalling the converter. srt8 guys are slow learners or just hard headed but the few that have finally tried the technique are also finding this to be true...so i'd be willing to bet the 63's are no different. experiment and let us know what you think works best.
I also ran mine off idle.
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W211 E55
launches with the 55's has proven to yield better 60ft times by leaving from idle WITHOUT power braking or stalling the converter. srt8 guys are slow learners or just hard headed but the few that have finally tried the technique are also finding this to be true...so i'd be willing to bet the 63's are no different. experiment and let us know what you think works best.
I was simply relaying (in very broad strokes) what has worked for me.
You guys are 100% right about diminishing returns below 50f and the RH issue.
I cannot comment on the Contis, as I had replacement rubber on mine, but the Toyos seemed to dead hook at 22.
A great method would be to start at 30, dropping 2 psi each time until your 60' stops improving.
#14
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You are the current BEST 63 time in the USA!
So maybe your right, I will get 30 plus runs so plenty of time to use both techniques. Nobody goes to this track , poor LACR. I love the fact I can just keep rolling up to the tree!
Here is your corrected time Bluemax
UnCorrected ET:
12.8 (sec) @ 112 (MPH)
Corrected ET to Sea Level:
12.363 (sec) @ 116.045 (MPH) VERY VERY IMPRESSIVE
This means your hp to the wheel is
You Entered:
Vehicle Weight - 4200 (lbs)
Trap Speed - 116 (mph)
Drivetrain Loss - 18 (%)
Results:
Rear Wheel HP - 445.1
Crankshaft HP - 542.8
Power to Weight (rwhp) - 9.4 (lower is better)
Power to Weight (crank hp) - 7.7 (lower is better)
Here is your corrected time Bluemax
UnCorrected ET:
12.8 (sec) @ 112 (MPH)
Corrected ET to Sea Level:
12.363 (sec) @ 116.045 (MPH) VERY VERY IMPRESSIVE
This means your hp to the wheel is
You Entered:
Vehicle Weight - 4200 (lbs)
Trap Speed - 116 (mph)
Drivetrain Loss - 18 (%)
Results:
Rear Wheel HP - 445.1
Crankshaft HP - 542.8
Power to Weight (rwhp) - 9.4 (lower is better)
Power to Weight (crank hp) - 7.7 (lower is better)
Last edited by juicee63; 05-07-2007 at 02:00 PM.
#15
Senior Member
Juice,
I can't wait to go try it again. I might run down to speed world this weekend to see what she can do at a properly prep track. It is starting to get HOT so i don't know what she will do in the heat. We shall see..
Robert
I can't wait to go try it again. I might run down to speed world this weekend to see what she can do at a properly prep track. It is starting to get HOT so i don't know what she will do in the heat. We shall see..
Robert