W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

License plate light

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Old 12-04-2007 | 09:52 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by obsidian05e55
Ok, so installed the LED's. Without the resistor they would strobe, wouldnt stay on constantly. I than installed a 100 Ohm resis on each bulb. The lights work now, but im still getting the plate light out message...Any thoughts? Looks incredible at night, exactly like the lexus, a little brighter due to the 9leds in each bulb.. I also have tried the Hoen bulbs, barely a difference, not worth it...

-Walter
Walter, sounds like one of the resistors is not making a good contact.
I would check the connections then turn on the lights for five minutes and touch the resistors they should be warm, if not, the resistor could be bad and needs to be replaced.

Just so we are on the same page the resistors go across the two wires that go to the bulb. You stated in a previous post that >>> " So 1 resistor per bulb, 1 wire to positive, other to ground? Fairly easy..."<<< one wire to ground may not work and may be source of your light out message.

(ground meaning the chassis)

License plate light-dcp40460.jpg

License plate light-dcp40461.jpg

Last edited by Yacht Master; 12-04-2007 at 09:57 PM.
Old 12-05-2007 | 12:27 PM
  #27  
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got it! They work!
Old 12-16-2007 | 02:25 PM
  #28  
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I thought you use the resistors on the bulbs, what the the square looking cardboard?
Old 12-17-2007 | 10:48 PM
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I once had a BMW 540i and had a few cosmetic mods. One of my favorite was my interior xenon lights. I bought them from a Canadian distibutor and they bought them from http://www.interiorxenon.com/ . They make kits for BMWs and I don't see why they cannot include the Mercedes series. The lights include everything from the license plate light to the sun visor light. You really can tell the difference between the stock yellow and the xenon white. I look forward to everyones search.

Last edited by PittBulle63; 12-18-2007 at 09:51 PM.
Old 12-20-2007 | 10:49 PM
  #30  
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Do the festoon bulbs have to be 5 watt? I saw these , but they are 10 watt, wonder if they are fine.

http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-2067.cfm
Old 01-09-2008 | 09:07 PM
  #31  
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OK, so i need some help before ordering. i will be doing this mod to my car and would like to verify that its the correct load equalizer for my application. i have a set of LED bulbs already.

now, when i go to the listed LED site and look for the Load Eq, i find This.


now this is not the same thing as found in Yacht Master's pictures


am i looking for what HE has or are the ones i showed the same/better?


also, i need to replace my cover for the bulb housing, their dark and burnt up.



thanks




ALi
Old 01-09-2008 | 10:19 PM
  #32  
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100 ohm is what you need for the 5 watt license plate circuit.
Mine are "home made" from parts bought at radio shack.
As long as the 100 ohm value remains the same you can use
the nice ones from spectrum.
Old 01-10-2008 | 01:54 PM
  #33  
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thank you sir


so basically, cut the power wire going to the bulb on each one, and clamp this in between the wire, using the attached splicer. what do i need to do regarding the grounds?


thanks.



and anyone have a good idea of where to find a set of clear covers for the bulbs?



ALi
Old 01-10-2008 | 03:57 PM
  #34  
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QUOTE=goliath27;2591316]thank you sir


so basically, cut the power wire going to the bulb on each one, and clamp this in between the wire, using the attached splicer. what do i need to do regarding the grounds?


thanks.



and anyone have a good idea of where to find a set of clear covers for the bulbs?



ALi[/QUOTE]

Don't cut any wire!!!
The resistor is attached to the wire on one side of the bulb and the other side of the bulb.
License plate light-ty.bmp


Last edited by Yacht Master; 01-10-2008 at 04:20 PM.
Old 01-10-2008 | 04:44 PM
  #35  
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thanks for fixing that pic lol.

so i splice into the power wire, and the ground, but the ground gets spliced closer to the bulb correct?

i might head over to radio shack if i get a chance and jump on this tonight.




but now i need the new lenses or this would be pointless lol. thanks again YM



ALi
Old 01-16-2008 | 10:16 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Yacht Master
Thats it 39 they will fit tight, here is a pic of the resistors I used.
2 X 100 ohm ceramic resistors hard mounted to circuit board, I tested it for 1.5 hours and the resistors never got too hot to touch. I just mounted the circuit board so that it would not touch any thing any way, I also insulated the soldered electrical connections on the board with a generous amount of epoxy.
Attachment 118958

Attachment 118959

Attachment 118960

Attachment 118961

Attachment 118962
OK I just bought the 100 ohm 10watt resistors from the Shack, and I picked up some 16-20 gauge wire splices. But now I see that those resistors had metal leads on them and will need to be soldered onto some wires like you did?

Is that what you did or did yours come with wires? And what gauge would be safe for this use? I have some telephone wire laying around, very skinny thou so it might not work. Any help please?



ALi
Old 01-16-2008 | 10:36 PM
  #37  
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Yes I soldered the resistors and wires together on the board and then covered the connection with epoxy to insulate it. As far as the wire goes I would not use anything smaller than 18 ga. (BTW never use solid wire (phone) in any automotive application use stranded wire, it needs to be flexible.
Old 01-17-2008 | 12:00 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Yacht Master
Yes I soldered the resistors and wires together on the board and then covered the connection with epoxy to insulate it. As far as the wire goes I would not use anything smaller than 18 ga. (BTW never use solid wire (phone) in any automotive application use stranded wire, it needs to be flexible.

got it, its a stranded wire so it should be fine, i was just worrying about the wire being insulated?

next questions, just so i'm clear on everything i'm doing.

1.) due to the unkown areas of a CL trunk lid to me, what would be the max length i can make my wires comming from the L.R.? i'm not gonna run the thing all the way up front, but is a good 5inch wire ok?

2.) when i splice into the wire for the bulbs, i noticed that the splices were closer together in your drawing for the resistor, does it matter if the power wire is spliced closer then the ground wire. or just splice and play?

3.) i bought the 10 watt Load Resistor, is that too much for a 5 watt bulb?


thank you once again



ALi
Old 01-17-2008 | 02:18 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by goliath27
got it, its a stranded wire so it should be fine, i was just worrying about the wire being insulated?

next questions, just so i'm clear on everything i'm doing.

1.) due to the unkown areas of a CL trunk lid to me, what would be the max length i can make my wires comming from the L.R.? i'm not gonna run the thing all the way up front, but is a good 5inch wire ok?

2.) when i splice into the wire for the bulbs, i noticed that the splices were closer together in your drawing for the resistor, does it matter if the power wire is spliced closer then the ground wire. or just splice and play?

3.) i bought the 10 watt Load Resistor, is that too much for a 5 watt bulb?


thank you once again



ALi
1. Any length is OK, 5" no problem.
2. The distance makes no difference, make the splice neat and avoid any
tight pulls and sharp metal edges when running your wires.
3. !0 watt is perfect.
Old 01-17-2008 | 04:46 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Yacht Master
1. Any length is OK, 5" no problem.
2. The distance makes no difference, make the splice neat and avoid any
tight pulls and sharp metal edges when running your wires.
3. !0 watt is perfect.
much appreciated.

gonna make a How to for the w215 guys just in case they feel like gettin in on the cool guy mods



thanks YM



ALi
Old 01-24-2008 | 12:57 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by goliath27
much appreciated.

gonna make a How to for the w215 guys just in case they feel like gettin in on the cool guy mods



thanks YM



ALi

Did you finally do it? How's it working out? Pics? Where's the how to?
Old 01-24-2008 | 12:49 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by deviilsadvocate
Did you finally do it? How's it working out? Pics? Where's the how to?


lol man!!!!! i haven't had the time or the weather. its been nothing but below 25 here and i cant go out side in that and play with the trunk. My Garage has our silverado in their and we just dropped the motor back in so its not out yet.

will have everything soon, and i would recommend buying those pre-wired resistors from that site above, save some headache.

can anyone show me where to find the replacement bulb covers, mine are burnt looking and would hurt the look of the light over all.



ALi
Old 01-24-2008 | 12:54 PM
  #43  
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for me ... I say screw the lights.... all my car has no license plate light...
why would I want other to see my plate number..
it took me almost a year before I put my plates on.
my 06 audi Q7 still has no plates mounted.
Old 01-24-2008 | 03:00 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by goliath27
thanks for fixing that pic lol.

so i splice into the power wire, and the ground, but the ground gets spliced closer to the bulb correct?

i might head over to radio shack if i get a chance and jump on this tonight.




but now i need the new lenses or this would be pointless lol. thanks again YM



ALi
Hey Goliath, I am also in Cleveland...Gates Mills....and we have a shop in Oberlin. Its heated and has everything in terms of tools you could ever need and I would love to do mine as well...I guess I provide the heat and space and I can help you so I can learn to do mine as well?

www.switzerperformanceinnovation.com
Old 01-24-2008 | 03:35 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by evoviiiyou
Hey Goliath, I am also in Cleveland...Gates Mills....and we have a shop in Oberlin. Its heated and has everything in terms of tools you could ever need and I would love to do mine as well...I guess I provide the heat and space and I can help you so I can learn to do mine as well?

www.switzerperformanceinnovation.com
be their soon, i'll PM you with my number so call me asap if possible, you live right by my girlfriend lol.


EDIT: wrong Gates Mills lol, but i WILL make a trip, call me



ALi
Old 01-24-2008 | 11:11 PM
  #46  
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Im actually thinking of doing the opposite- removing the bulbs. Is there any way that I could do that without a "malfunction" msg on the display???
Old 01-25-2008 | 02:17 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by D-5
Im actually thinking of doing the opposite- removing the bulbs. Is there any way that I could do that without a "malfunction" msg on the display???
that my dude, is illegal, unless you plan on putting another GOOD light source their of course



ALi
Old 01-25-2008 | 04:21 PM
  #48  
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that's the whole purpose!! trying to stay low on the street... Anyone??
Old 01-25-2008 | 05:45 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by D-5
that's the whole purpose!! trying to stay low on the street... Anyone??

dimming the lights would be one thing, but removing it completely is usless and sorry but dumb.

first off, You would get ****ed with by ANY cop you see, trust me, thats their fav excuse to run your plates and pull you over.

you MIGHT want a on off switch? like the one that comes with your car lol




ALi
Old 02-07-2008 | 01:46 AM
  #50  
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Hi guys
I found this on Ebay.
What you guys think?
They said it does not need any resistor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NO-ER...em250212709168


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