blackbenzz

When do you all start spraying? top of 2nd? 3rd at 3500rpm? I'm not even sure if I'm ever going to use it again since i'm upping the boost this week but if I'm sniffing 10's you better believe i'm gonna spray it!

BMWEATR

when it hits 3k rpm its HAMMER time

blackbenzz

In 1st gear?

cgutowsky

It all depends on how much your throwing at it? If it's a small shot then you want to hit it as soon as you get traction. With a good tire as soon as it hooks you can spray it, yes in first. Remember your ET is all the front half of the track so the sooner you can spray it the better. But if your spraying a bigger amount 100 or more, wait til you hit 2nd gear and wack it.

blackbenzz

I sprayed a 50 shot (by accident lol, I was lined up against a 9s BMW and it was my first time using nitrous ) as soon as I launched (car dead hooked) and then the axle said **** you and broke. You'd be surpised how much mercedes wants for a CLK55 axle and how hard it is to find a used one. So you're saying its ok to spray at about 3k rpm in first gear?

ItalianStallion

Agreed. I would hit it in 1st at 3k and let it spray all the way up to 5th

Though I never did it on the drag strip. If you're axles are weak, then maybe you should spray it in 2nd? Stephen with the S600 and Rflow and JameE55 probably know the most here.

higginsbeach

I didn't realize you broke your axle. Can you give a little more detail. How much power are u putting down. Would a Quaife LSD have prevented that??

BMWEATR

yes. if your running 100 shot same thing. hope you got DR's. or better yet some slicks.

blackbenzz

The axles are by no means "weak". I will take a picture of the broken one and post it up. Its very heavy duty stuff! I called to have custom driveshafts made and they told me the stock ones should be good for well over 450whp and they said not to have them made. Go back to the track and if it ever breaks again, THEN get custom ones.

In terms of how much power the car makes... good question. According to the import shop that dyno'd my car it makes a little over 400whp. I dont remember exactly but I think they said 405whp and 415wtq or something off of nitrous. And then they said the 50 shot gave me 55whp but was running PIG rich, like 10.3:1 Gotta check on that again and also check on the pill sizes they used for the nitrous, they could have put the wrong ones in. It doesnt really correlate with my 1/4 mile times though. I dont trust that shop anymore since they raped me on the price, took forever, and a few months later, STILL havent replaced the innovate wideband that was "defective". They keep saying its on its way...

I'm almost always on d/r's so thats no biggie. I switched from the wheels in my sig to kinesis K18r's with Toyo RA1's out back and when I go to the track I swap the rear kinesis wheels for 18" AMG monoblocks with BFG d/r's on em The DPE's are for sale

Another question I had for you guys is do you keep spraying through the shifts? Or do you let off the spray and get back on it after the shift? When I sprayed in second gear at 3500rpm the car bounced off the rev limiter so I stopped spraying and I still gained 2mph. I was told it bounced off the rev limiter because the car was still "relearning" the redline and shiftpoints since the battery died that morning . After those experiences I never used nitrous again lol. I used it 3 times total and never on the street. Still havent had to refill the bottle

Thanks for all the advice guys

E55 RUSS

So how much does rear axle cost and what is your NOS set up ???

I've been thinking about it long ago but I need to get proven package and I cant get much info on this anywhere...

Now I wonder what would happend with SL65 1000HP when or if it would hook up on track since on S600 broked theirs already...

ItalianStallion

I would set up a window switch for added security that shuts the nitrous off when at or approaching redline. You can set it to only spray between 3000 and 6500rpm's or whatever you like.

blackbenzz

Almost $1k USD. Its a wet shot.

In terms of Quaife LSD, it might have helped but I have a Kleemann LSD so I dont think it would help.

ItallionStallion- That is exactly what I wanted and paid for. What I got back was a car that would throw a check engine light and go into limp mode when going full throttle, even without nitrous. Mercedes sensors are too sensitive and tapping into things like the TPS cause bad things to happen. So I had to go with the button method. My car wont spray unless I have the system armed, i'm WOT, AND pushing the button.

StealthAuto

+1... Do it right.

-AS

blackbenzz

Have you done this before? How do you manage to tap into the TPS without the ECU going nuts? I tried doing it "right" and it didnt work. Enlighten me. I would love to have that done

DJE55

It's trial and error my friend. No one will be able to give you the number or time until you try it. I would start well after the car hooks and work your way down from there. The first time you spray pay attention to your RPM's, how far out of the hole etc.. If the car hooks well, start a little sooner on your next pass. If the car hooks and nothing breaks, you can spray as soon as you get the pedal to the floor.

Stephen04E55

Every time I have sprayed my car I have done so from the start. I have a manual button and have complete control over the spray. Of course I broke my pinion in the process but it had at least 25 runs with the spray out of the gate. Maybe I'll hold off for a split second from now on....

rflow306

The sooner you hit it the better the results, but the higher your chances of drive-train failure if it hooks.

Forget the window switch or tps on an MB, the signal for the tps and rpm signal has to be very low draw or it will throw a check engine light. The ecu is very sensitive to current draw and signal interference. In our application being wot is more important than rpm for NOS activation thanks in part to the amount of air the engine moves and the amount of nitrous we are trying to flow.
In other words "we don't need no stinking window switch".

Heck we use to spray 100 hp just on the trans-brake, followed by the first stage the second your finger was of the trans-brake button.

blackbenzz

Thanks guys, you've been alot of help

So you guys spray though the gear changes too?

Hopefully I'll see Stephen and Albert in the 10's this year

JamE55

Ahmad.

Try playing with the spray time. Spray on 1st then 2nd and then 3rd to see if you get the same results.

blackbenzz

I have to wait a couple months until the tracks open back up. I think they open in March. Next time I go, I'm going to make a few no nitrous passes to see what it does with more boost and to get my launch down again. Maybe I'll have cams by then if they are proven. Then I will make a pass with spray starting in first gear at about 3-3500rpms. I think it should be good enough for 10's. Only one way to find out.

Stephen04E55

The only time I have to lift off the button is on the 1-2 shift and that is because of the ECU torque limit. This occurs especially if it has been a better than average launch. I have to be ready for the 1-2 shift as it occurs very quickly. Otherwise I leave the hammer down the entire run.