how accurate is the oil level monitor? I just completed DIY oil change.
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From: Jupiter, Florida
2005 E55, 2004 E55(sold), 2001 Viper GTS, 2006 Viper VOI9, 1994 ZR-1 Corvette 2009 Viper ACR,
how accurate is the oil level monitor? I just completed DIY oil change.
I just did a DIY oil change last night with a Mityvac Oil evacuator. I have the dipstick tool. But that thing is tough to get an accurate reading with.. I can't understand why they just dont use a regular dipstick..
ANyway, the oil level monitor tells me "oil level ok" Is this accurate? If it were over OR under filled. Would I get a message?
I have probably done hundreds of oil changes before. But never used an evacuator.. Honestly, Im not crazy about it.. Next time, I'll just buy the new drain plugs, and do it the "ol fashioned" way. The evacuator DID get all 9 quarts out though. My Mityvac holds 8.8 liters, and was completely filled by the time I was done.. I refilled wioth 9 quarts of Mobil 1 0w40, and replaced the fleece filter and o-rings.
ANyway, the oil level monitor tells me "oil level ok" Is this accurate? If it were over OR under filled. Would I get a message?
I have probably done hundreds of oil changes before. But never used an evacuator.. Honestly, Im not crazy about it.. Next time, I'll just buy the new drain plugs, and do it the "ol fashioned" way. The evacuator DID get all 9 quarts out though. My Mityvac holds 8.8 liters, and was completely filled by the time I was done.. I refilled wioth 9 quarts of Mobil 1 0w40, and replaced the fleece filter and o-rings.
Last edited by Taximan1; Jan 25, 2008 at 10:10 AM.
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1989 Toyota Tercel EZ - dyno'd @ 70whp/77wtq
There is indeed a dipstick hole (see red/yellow cap - can't remember 
- on the upper left corner of S/C). You could buy a dipstick from stealer for like $100+ 
The last time I did oil change... My mityvac also got slightly more than 8.5qt (after only 5 months & 2.5K of last oil change). And what I did was to fill 8qt exactly.... check using the computer and it said "add 1 qt"... so I added 1qt. So my guess yours was quite consistent w/ mine.
But to be more precise, better use the dipstick
- on the upper left corner of S/C). You could buy a dipstick from stealer for like $100+ The last time I did oil change... My mityvac also got slightly more than 8.5qt (after only 5 months & 2.5K of last oil change). And what I did was to fill 8qt exactly.... check using the computer and it said "add 1 qt"... so I added 1qt. So my guess yours was quite consistent w/ mine.
But to be more precise, better use the dipstick
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 386
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From: Jupiter, Florida
2005 E55, 2004 E55(sold), 2001 Viper GTS, 2006 Viper VOI9, 1994 ZR-1 Corvette 2009 Viper ACR,
There is indeed a dipstick hole (see red/yellow cap - can't remember - on the upper left corner of S/C). You could buy a dipstick from stealer for like $100+
The last time I did oil change... My mityvac also got slightly more than 8.5qt (after only 5 months & 2.5K of last oil change). And what I did was to fill 8qt exactly.... check using the computer and it said "add 1 qt"... so I added 1qt. So my guess yours was quite consistent w/ mine.
But to be more precise, better use the dipstick
- on the upper left corner of S/C). You could buy a dipstick from stealer for like $100+ The last time I did oil change... My mityvac also got slightly more than 8.5qt (after only 5 months & 2.5K of last oil change). And what I did was to fill 8qt exactly.... check using the computer and it said "add 1 qt"... so I added 1qt. So my guess yours was quite consistent w/ mine.
But to be more precise, better use the dipstick
I added all 9 quarts of Mobil1 0w40. Thats what the manual calls for.. At least in my 05' anyway.
zoink, do you feel it does as good of a job, as draining from the bottom? After adding the 9 qts., and running the engine for a few seconds. The oil seems to turn color (light brown) right away. Telling me there might still be some old oil in the crankcase. I dunno, I like seeing the honey gold color, for at least 500-1000 miles. Call me crazy..
Last edited by Taximan1; Jan 25, 2008 at 10:48 AM.
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From: Caribbean/Florida/Colorado
E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
Taximan,
The 55s have two lower pans and two drain plugs.
The mighty vac will leave the smaller pan full of used oil 1 to .75 qt that is why you get a discoloration of the oil so fast. I have MB documents in my other computer regarding oil change, it states "must be drained from below" and both drain plugs replaced ***(PLUGS ARE ONE TIME USE)***. I'll try to post it here tomorrow.
https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....0&postcount=15
https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....9&postcount=28
The 55s have two lower pans and two drain plugs.
The mighty vac will leave the smaller pan full of used oil 1 to .75 qt that is why you get a discoloration of the oil so fast. I have MB documents in my other computer regarding oil change, it states "must be drained from below" and both drain plugs replaced ***(PLUGS ARE ONE TIME USE)***. I'll try to post it here tomorrow.
https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....0&postcount=15
https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....9&postcount=28
Last edited by Yacht Master; Jan 25, 2008 at 11:33 AM.
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ML550
There is zero change that any equipment used to evacuate the oil from the top will fully drain both oil sumps in the engine. The only way to drain all of the oil is to remove the drain plugs on the two oil sumps. The smaller front one is somewhat of a PITA to work with, but this is where the oil is that the top removal equipment can't remove. You must replace both drain plugs with new ones following a change, and it's not a bad idea to use a calibrated torque wrench to torque them to their proper spec.
By draining from the bottom and using the MB factory service dipstick tool, I've had no difficulty in getting precisely to the specified fill level. I trust the reading on the dipstick tool more than the electronic indicator, but that only because I've relied on a dipstick for decades now
By draining from the bottom and using the MB factory service dipstick tool, I've had no difficulty in getting precisely to the specified fill level. I trust the reading on the dipstick tool more than the electronic indicator, but that only because I've relied on a dipstick for decades now
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 386
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From: Jupiter, Florida
2005 E55, 2004 E55(sold), 2001 Viper GTS, 2006 Viper VOI9, 1994 ZR-1 Corvette 2009 Viper ACR,
Thanks for the tips guys, I'll probably re-do it from the bottom. In 3-5k miles..
Is there a message light that would come on, if it were overfilled??
Is there a message light that would come on, if it were overfilled??
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From: Maryland
2004 E55 AMG
I used the same MityVac tool my first change as well and got similar results. My previous oil change I did from below since the plugs are easy to get to and you ensure all the oil is out. I bought the measuring stick from the dealer and got to about 168-ish on the marks. 9 quarts exactly is what I used with no problems at all. Not sure about about the overfill question but I would assume you'd get a warning of some sort. See the attached for more info.
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From: Salt Lake City (but not Morm)
2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
Don't forget, in dyno mode there is a screen that will give you oil level to the tenth of a quart/liter (forgot which) with engine running.
Course you are still counting on the sensor for the reading so hopefully it is accurate. Reason I say that is mine just went bad and had it replaced. Constantly gave me oil level warning when everything was fine.
Course you are still counting on the sensor for the reading so hopefully it is accurate. Reason I say that is mine just went bad and had it replaced. Constantly gave me oil level warning when everything was fine.
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1989 Toyota Tercel EZ - dyno'd @ 70whp/77wtq
My logic is as follows:
Not changing oil at all: Oil quality = 0% (let's say)
Changing oil from bottom: Oil quality = 100%
Changing oil using vacuum pump: Oil quality = 8/9*100 + 1/9*0 = 88.88% ==> Assuming 1qt of old oil left from the rear sump.
So yeah, I agree w/ Yacht & kompressed that changing oil from the bottom is better than vacuum pump.... but changing oil & oil filter between FSS (I usually do it every 3-5K miles or 4-6 months), I'm satisfied w/ close to 90% new oil w/o crawling underneath the car To each his own...
Not changing oil at all: Oil quality = 0% (let's say)
Changing oil from bottom: Oil quality = 100%
Changing oil using vacuum pump: Oil quality = 8/9*100 + 1/9*0 = 88.88% ==> Assuming 1qt of old oil left from the rear sump.
So yeah, I agree w/ Yacht & kompressed that changing oil from the bottom is better than vacuum pump.... but changing oil & oil filter between FSS (I usually do it every 3-5K miles or 4-6 months), I'm satisfied w/ close to 90% new oil w/o crawling underneath the car
To each his own...
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2023 GLE 53
Just to add to those who use a vacuum pump from the top (like me) to change oil. You can just jack up one side of the front of the car about 6-8 inches while pumping the oil and you'll get most of the 8.5 liters out. I don't know why they didn't put a channel between the front and rear crankcases, but using this method allows me to get most of it. I do my own every 5-6 K miles as well, and agree with Zoink's comments.
