Taximan1

I just did a DIY oil change last night with a Mityvac Oil evacuator. I have the dipstick tool. But that thing is tough to get an accurate reading with.. I can't understand why they just dont use a regular dipstick..

ANyway, the oil level monitor tells me "oil level ok" Is this accurate? If it were over OR under filled. Would I get a message?

I have probably done hundreds of oil changes before. But never used an evacuator.. Honestly, Im not crazy about it.. Next time, I'll just buy the new drain plugs, and do it the "ol fashioned" way. The evacuator DID get all 9 quarts out though. My Mityvac holds 8.8 liters, and was completely filled by the time I was done.. I refilled wioth 9 quarts of Mobil 1 0w40, and replaced the fleece filter and o-rings.

zoink

There is indeed a dipstick hole (see red/yellow cap - can't remember - on the upper left corner of S/C). You could buy a dipstick from stealer for like $100+

The last time I did oil change... My mityvac also got slightly more than 8.5qt (after only 5 months & 2.5K of last oil change). And what I did was to fill 8qt exactly.... check using the computer and it said "add 1 qt"... so I added 1qt. So my guess yours was quite consistent w/ mine.

But to be more precise, better use the dipstick

Taximan1

Yeah, I DO have the dipstick tool. They sell it on Ebay for $27. Buts its tough to get an accuate reading. I took the measurment before I started. Came in at 168mm. Which is "full" according to factory specs. However, after doing the oil change. I cant seem to get a accurate reading. One side of the tool says 190mm, the other(non marked) side is much lower. About 150mm. I guess there is some oil splatter in the dipstick tube, throwing it off.

I added all 9 quarts of Mobil1 0w40. Thats what the manual calls for.. At least in my 05' anyway.

zoink, do you feel it does as good of a job, as draining from the bottom? After adding the 9 qts., and running the engine for a few seconds. The oil seems to turn color (light brown) right away. Telling me there might still be some old oil in the crankcase. I dunno, I like seeing the honey gold color, for at least 500-1000 miles. Call me crazy..

Yacht Master

Taximan,

The 55s have two lower pans and two drain plugs.
The mighty vac will leave the smaller pan full of used oil 1 to .75 qt that is why you get a discoloration of the oil so fast. I have MB documents in my other computer regarding oil change, it states "must be drained from below" and both drain plugs replaced ***(PLUGS ARE ONE TIME USE)***. I'll try to post it here tomorrow.

https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....0&postcount=15


https://mbworld.org/forums/showpost....9&postcount=28

komp55

There is zero change that any equipment used to evacuate the oil from the top will fully drain both oil sumps in the engine. The only way to drain all of the oil is to remove the drain plugs on the two oil sumps. The smaller front one is somewhat of a PITA to work with, but this is where the oil is that the top removal equipment can't remove. You must replace both drain plugs with new ones following a change, and it's not a bad idea to use a calibrated torque wrench to torque them to their proper spec.

By draining from the bottom and using the MB factory service dipstick tool, I've had no difficulty in getting precisely to the specified fill level. I trust the reading on the dipstick tool more than the electronic indicator, but that only because I've relied on a dipstick for decades now

Taximan1

Thanks for the tips guys, I'll probably re-do it from the bottom. In 3-5k miles..

Is there a message light that would come on, if it were overfilled??

BrianS

I used the same MityVac tool my first change as well and got similar results. My previous oil change I did from below since the plugs are easy to get to and you ensure all the oil is out. I bought the measuring stick from the dealer and got to about 168-ish on the marks. 9 quarts exactly is what I used with no problems at all. Not sure about about the overfill question but I would assume you'd get a warning of some sort. See the attached for more info.

Jakpro1

Don't forget, in dyno mode there is a screen that will give you oil level to the tenth of a quart/liter (forgot which) with engine running.

Course you are still counting on the sensor for the reading so hopefully it is accurate. Reason I say that is mine just went bad and had it replaced. Constantly gave me oil level warning when everything was fine.

zoink

My logic is as follows:
Not changing oil at all: Oil quality = 0% (let's say)
Changing oil from bottom: Oil quality = 100%
Changing oil using vacuum pump: Oil quality = 8/9*100 + 1/9*0 = 88.88% ==> Assuming 1qt of old oil left from the rear sump.

So yeah, I agree w/ Yacht & kompressed that changing oil from the bottom is better than vacuum pump.... but changing oil & oil filter between FSS (I usually do it every 3-5K miles or 4-6 months), I'm satisfied w/ close to 90% new oil w/o crawling underneath the car To each his own...

jimmysanjuan

Just to add to those who use a vacuum pump from the top (like me) to change oil. You can just jack up one side of the front of the car about 6-8 inches while pumping the oil and you'll get most of the 8.5 liters out. I don't know why they didn't put a channel between the front and rear crankcases, but using this method allows me to get most of it. I do my own every 5-6 K miles as well, and agree with Zoink's comments.