jangy

Does anyone have an OEM and modded cooling diagrams? Also, what brand HE does everyone recommend right now, assuming I am splitting the systems?

blueknight

I don't have mine split but I'm using Brandon's HE (Code 3) best bang for the $.

Mr. AMG 20

Does anybody have LET's heat exchanger? How is it?

stevebez

Again, the H/E cooling is not the problem. The problem is the POS I/C. It is only just enough for a stock E55... and way to small for a modded 55.

Yet NO ONE has come up with a decent and economical solution to this problem....other than the $500,000 SLR.

I still ike the design of the MKB intercooler unit... maybe I give them a call and find out more about it.

Yacht Master

stock E and S class

01bolt

I have the LET heat exchanger and pump and it works great it's been 95-100 here for the last week .

stevebez

That W220 rad is what I have fitted to my car with more than some difficulty... its basically too wide by a couple of inches to fit comfortably.

Finny's custom cooler is an ideal version of this... can't recall the dimensions... but its around 550mm x 450mm x 20mm

supre55

Where'd you put the oil cooler? Sorry for the mini-jack.

I just installed the LET Friday with new pump. Was going to finish splitting the system (bmw p/s resovoir inroute) and fully test this weekend when the dreaded fuel leak occurred/surfaced.

My initial data logging (before I knew I had a fuel leak!) showed IAT at 18 above ambient and peaking at 42 above ambient after WOT and returning to 22 above ambient inside of 30 seconds.

C32madness

Thanks for the diagram Yacht Master.

Those that what to better understand the liquid intercooling I suggest doing some research. Corkey Bells book maximum boost discusses the subject.

The stock system is not designed well. It is missing one of the most important parts the reservoir tank. The stock reservoir tank is not part of the intercooler circut in the sense that the fluid does not return to the tank once cooled.

The job of the reservoir tank is to increase thermal load capacity. The more volume of liquid available the longer it takes the intake charge to heat the fluid. In an ideal world you would want the fluid to not see the IC more than once during a boost run. If your pump has a rating of say 2.5 gallons a minute and use average boost runs of say 30 seconds (not practial) then a 1.25 gallon reserve tank would feed the IC fresh cool fluid the entire boost run.

The job of the heat exchanger in the proper application is to cool the fluid AFTER a boost run not during one. The reason for this is because the fluid gets heated from the intake charge. The delta between the fluid and ambient air is not as great as the delta between the intake charge and fluid. This makes trying cool the fluid at the same rate as heating it next to impossible.

The larger HE does help cool the fluid faster after a boost run. So does running the IC pump all the time. By running the pump all the time the IC becomes a heat exchanger when off boost.

Hope this helps you guys better understand the proper approach to dealing with the shortcomings of the stock system.

HYEPWR

I just got my E55, so I havent stf on the topic---but it seems to me that WATER INJECTION......... AFTER the supercharger would be an ideal fix for this problem. Has this been tried and tested? The C32 AMG has a similar heat soak problems--I read on the devils own forum where an slk32 owner had W/I kit routed pre-supercharger then drilled a hole and added it after the supercharger. his results were pretty great..20 degrees cooler intake temps!!

Under WOT without any cooling his temps were close to 200....with the water/meth spraying pre-supercharger his temps were ~150 and when he positioned the nozzle post supercharger his temps never got over 129 degrees. Heres the link..

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/for...ement-960.html

Although Im not familiar enough with both engines to determine if there are placement issues due to AIT probes and what not---this seems like the most logical and economical solution.

sang55

Janger, I got Code3 HE, C090, spacers, and PTE 160 T-stat.I data loged all time when I take my E out on 90 to 95F and I alway have 20F over outside temp on hard run lights to lights and high way I got 15F over , so the highest IAT I got 115F here in New Mexico . Oh I also mixed 12oz water wetter in coolant which will cool down 5 to 10F

stevebez

I've tried to look into this and I would have thought at the elbow from the S/C to the I/C is the best position, thing is you need IAT's to be >100degC to get the most heat reduction out of the vapourisation of the water... so you can't put it after the I/C needs to go ahead of it.

The Aquamist system is the one I was looking at..... water flow is linked to fuel flow and on off trigger is determined by a boost pressure point of your choosing.

Yacht Master

I agree for the most part larger tank/capacity is always welcome, To me and this is just my opinion, the run all the time pump vrs. a temp controlled pump issue needs a bit of study. I have not seen any superheat calculations or BTU rejection rates and the corresponding flow rates for our 55s but I know it is possible to over/under pump a cooling system.

jangy

Lots of good advice guys. I can see that there are two ways to do this. Either beef up the system or remake it. Both have their downsides. I'm woried that I will really need to remake it with my mods and with what i hope to add. I fully agree with C32, except that I think a proper cooling setup will maintain a blast longer by adding "some" cooling before the pull is done. Without it, I pulled timing hard at the end of my runs. If what you say is true, then a stock and modified car would be the same on a single pull and I don't think so. Anyhow. So, what is the problem with the current separate systems and how did the SLR cure it? Is it simply getting the heat off the top better? Can't a similar setup be made without the friggin costs?

Exotic-metal55

Looking at the S class IC system verses the E system is interesting. The E class does not have the extra cooler between the radiator? If not, what does the fan located in front of the wheel well do on the E class? From all the info posted, it seems the S class and E class both run 30 deg. or so over ambient. Based on the illustration, the E would have to run a lot hotter not having the extra cooler. Something must be missing?

TopGun32

I have same results with my HE except I spike a bit more on runs over 110+

If I had the better pump and Tstat it would help.. since the stock coolant temps are around 195 to 205F all the time.

splitting the system would not be necessary if we could cool down the engine coolant..

spacers are ideal too.

chiromikey

system separation is a must as you definitely don't want to lower engine coolant temps much below what we're running.

Zod

untill numbers are shown of over heating and time pulling this is stil theory....data log please

• stock car with updated pump is more then enough
• large size pullied car with old pump and no ecu has shown not to be a good combo
• Evo sport style of seperating of cooling systems and adding additional HE seems to work

has any one done evo cooling system and replacing the stock HE with a larger one & actuly data loged both set ups in same weather under same conditions to show other wise?

steve you never got back to me with your results on data loggin, how did it go?

sang55

My coolant temp is alway at 178F to 185F. Split the system is that what I have to add a tank in the trunk ?

chiromikey

this is not new stuff or unproven "theories" being discussed and there are multitudes of people that have datalogged and provided info on what the dme does in regards to high iat's.

Zod

Sorry i should have been a little more clear, i was mostly referring to stock cars complaining of timing been pulled, which was mostly related to old pump model.

We have some members on a crusade claiming over heating and timing been pulled with out doing one actual test and claiming all sorts of things...

You do not need SLR coolers for small modding. Cooling packages help combat the heat. Running hard in hot weather is just ill advised in general. If you go for a biggest pulley you can get, you know for a fact it will generate more heat

Captain Eddie

Iv looked at all these comments on cooling the water I'm going to divide the return pipe to the liquid pump under the wheel arch take one pipe to the front of the vehicle and fit an oil cooler radiator or maybe two this will increase the capacity and cool the heated liquid. Cost will be one or two used radiators six clips two pipe connectors length of tube. I will post when Iv done it.

blackbenzz

Welcome to 7 years ago

AgSilver

Splitting the system only helps if you using a separate reservoir. The factory design prevents any circulation of the engine coolant into the I/C-H/E circuit. As always, it is the H/E that will allow you to get the maximum from the I/C, but you can never get the coolant below ambient. The greater the TD (delta) between the coolant and the charge air the greater the reduction in temperature. For serious racers a split chilled water system is a must. For myself, a larger H/E, CM30, and a few other mods provide IAT's of about +10F over ambient at normal cruising and about +15F cruising at 162 KPH (perfectly legal here). Oh, I forgot, I run a 168mm pulley, so I'm not making too much heat from the S/C.