sneakyneon

So I wanted to see what effect Modifying the intake would have on the intake temps. Ive read over and over that you need fresh air and the drawing in engine temp air is bad for performance. And normally a would agree. In a N/A engine there is a short path from filter into the head but on ours it has to go through the TB into the supercharger out to the intercooler cores and into the head. So i went out to see what I could do to test this. I did 3 test: 1 with the intake tubes off the filter box.2 One in stock configuration. 3 Tubes off the filter box and three 1 in holes in the side of the box( below the filter obviously)
With the car fully warmed I drove at light throttle for all 3 tests at varying speeds to see if wind had an effect in it. Ambeiant air temp was 68 to 71

test 1 ( intake tubes off)
Sitting at a stop for 1 minuet
start temp 81 rising to 84

Maintaining a 35 to 40 mph speed for 2 miles
Start temp 82 to 84 fluctuating slightly some flickers to 85 but on average 82-84

Freeway speeds 60 to 75 mph
start temp 89 to 96 The faster you drive the hotter it gets ( all at light throttle) at 75 mph it would climb to a high of 96 as soon as you slow down to 60 mph it would return 89

Test 2(stock configuration)
Sitting for one minuet
start temp 84 rising to 90

35 to 40 mph for 2 miles
start temp 86 to 90

Freeway
start temp 94 to 103
Same as before the faster you go the hotter it would get.

Test 3 ( tubes off and holes in air box)
Sitting for one minuet 84 to 88

35 to 40 for 2 miles 86 to 88

freeway 60 to 75 mph 86 to 93

I'm thinking it all boils down to intake restriction and the how hard the supercharger is working. I'm not brave enough to try this test with the air box removed but my guess it would yield the lowest freeway temps?
Just some food for thought.

So those were my Individual results, I'm not suggesting you change anything in your set up, your results may vary. Please do your own data logging before making any changes.

str8ridin

Interesting. So, stock configuration is the worst? How does removing the intake tubes that are designed to pull in "cool" or fresh air yeild worse results than removing them completely?

You should see what taking off your front grill does.

Anyway, cool data.

sneakyneon

My guess is that any inlet restriction causes the supercharger to work harder, I'd keep in mind that the diffrence is pretty minor. I'm still thinking a singel 3.5 or 4 inch with a large cone filter would be a great setup. We should data log on your car and see if the results are the same?

Bellevue_E55

What about a big circular filter at the back by the passenger compartment heat shield with cool air coming in via the ducts on the hood ? Similar to the pictures I saw where someone was trying to fabricate intercoolers.

Not that I want a hood scoop but it would be interesting.

After driving my car for a while and popping the hood I find the hottest part of the engine is near the front right where the intake tubes run.

Autoscope

Just remember! Colder CFM is always better than more CFM!

Interesting!

So, if the intake tube was off? Right? Wouldn't it pull air from the engine bay?

I like your style, thank you for performing this test!

prodigymb

i got that HKS filter that was used in that red SL55 mounted at the throttle body. i just have to figure out something with the pcv tubing now...

JustPete

I'd bet it has more to do with heat transfer. The tubes are being heated up and transferring that heat to the air like a heat exchanger.

My guess is, with the tubes off, the heat that's in the engine compartment is rising/being drawn out the hood vent and the intake is able to draw slightly cooler air AND spends less time inside the intake system being heated.

blackbenzz

Hmmm, I wonder who has that on their car

Nice testing

Thericker

I have done something very similar (But used large Foam cone airfilters) results were tested vs racing friends car before n' after (multi-times in same area) dif was/is substantial! multi car length gains. HP restriction thru puny air tubes crossing thru hot radiator = crap-intake...

Bellevue_E55

You used the Ebay intake right.... one sround $250 or so ?

Thericker

Yup!(memory serves $240 del) but in order to gain my results, you'll need to dremel out the innards of fact/airboxes, the way they route air under stock filers then back up to TB' is very restrictive lots of unneeded plastic walls/baffles, It'll make your blower whine sound INSANE when removed!! very easy to do, or you can just leave stock 90 deg restrictions pop out oem filters, & put foam cones on outside (will still work loads better than stock but dremel the bends/restrictions out = major HP/TQ/sound release

Another plus using the Foam Cones I got from Ebay, is they're NOT wrapped/folded w/Metal-mesh-weave = more HEAT SINK, these just have a small sturdy metal spring on inside that allows them to keep-hold shape/very plyable to mate up to fact holes. After 2hr drive in 405 traffic foam filters are cool to touch vs rest of engine or any exposed metal parts.

(I honestly can't believe 1 of you E55k haven't done this mod yet) DO EEEEEETTT

str8ridin

Very true!

Bellevue_E55

Got a picture ?

I also wonder if the tubes are being used for a RAM effect ? So if we get rid of the tubes the air flow could be too low ?

Thanks!

str8ridin

That guess sounds pretty good. If that theory is right, then wrapping the tubes in a heat reflective (or insulating) matarial may help. Or would it just keep them warm and not let them cool...?

Thericker

Pix! Airboxes on w/foam cones C-clamped w/new silicone couplers.

Airboxes Dremeled, w/tops off.

Foam Cone mated directly up to OEM holes.

str8ridin

So I read an SAE article a while back regarding intake air temperatures and their effect on different engine applications and found an interesting standard: By using the SAE correction factor "B" for temperature's effect on horsepower, we see that the correction factor for temperature is approximately 1% per ten degrees. That is, you get a 1% increase in horsepower for each 10 degrees you lower the temperature of the incoming air into your engine.

So, according the the data logged, simply removing the intake tubes can yeild a 10 degree difference and at 1% power for a 500HP car, it's about 5 HP. Nevertheless, 5hp is 5 hp.

I think I might just take off my intake tubes from now on.

Zod

If memory serves me right Jangy did this with bad results when he raved with the 63's at the track

also a guy dynoed with them off and put down lower numbers on the dyno

jangy

Yup, I removed my tubes and forgot to put them back on and was getting used or at least down to the levelof the stock CLS63. Next time I had them back on and gained my 3/10s back whicle the CLS' stayed. Cold air has more oxygen. Better cold than free flowing for me.

Thericker

Wait'll you guys see my latest mod on capturing a TON of COLD-AIR (not just to the Foam intakes either)

Will be completed very soon w/pix! It'll be the ONLY SL 600 let alone Mercedes on the Entire planet w/this NEW mod, it's a complete 1-off Fab

Thericker

Jangy try a set-up like mine, I guarantee you'll gain .3 more tenths over what you have now...

jangy

Pics, baby PICS!! I am already playing with the shrooms...

blackbenzz

0.3s is a HUGE gain. Some people barely shave 3 tenths of using a 100 shot of nitrous

str8ridin

Ah, the plot thickens. Interesting. I drove my car today for about 20 minutes, parked, popped the hood and felt my intake tubes. They were so hot I couldn't keep my hands on it for more than a few seconds.

Sneakneon's data shows that the tubes may actually heat up the incoming air by 5-10 degrees. Your track experience shows that it may not be just intake temps, but something else....

str8ridin

I'm still waiting on one of the E 55/63 guys to make a ram air set up like yours!

prodigymb

i doubt that setup will shave .3 off the et