W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

IC Reservoir Tanks & Kits, gotta do this for MB bruthas!

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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 09:17 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by V12Godspeed
I believe the returns may be greater than the weight itself. For example with the 5+ gallon set up you could run back to back runs without a drop in constant boost, Heat soak becomes a major problem at the V12 level. The heat generated by those 2 snails is immense not to mention the way they are packed under the hood. Mercedes did a poor job in this department. My car gained a 30rwhp from this mod, I have dynos to prove them. I was just using the 5 gallon one at the time with ICE it becomes a deadly combo. y:
WOW!!

V12Godspeed those are some very impressive gains. I cant wait to get my setup installed, thanks for adding some valuable content.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 09:40 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Full Throttle
WOW!!

V12Godspeed those are some very impressive gains. I cant wait to get my setup installed, thanks for adding some valuable content.
Yea the ice reservoir is definitely an awesome addition. I can't wait to get mine in. But remember that the V8k and V12TT will produce different gains. Bigger crank pulley V8k's benefit even more than stock pulley cars too. I will look for the dyno graph that rflow posted a long time ago of his E55. Made some nice gains with ice. I have seen a couple V12TT cars gain 30ish whp with ice.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by blackbenzz
Yea the ice reservoir is definitely an awesome addition. I can't wait to get mine in. But remember that the V8k and V12TT will produce different gains. Bigger crank pulley V8k's benefit even more than stock pulley cars too. I will look for the dyno graph that rflow posted a long time ago of his E55. Made some nice gains with ice. I have seen a couple V12TT cars gain 30ish whp with ice.
NOBODY is argueing that the ice reservior is a BAD idea. What I am saying, and staying with, is that NO ONE needs a 13 gallon tank in their trunk. Again, not even IF you are a raod racer. A dragger will get the SAME results in their IAT's with a 3-5 gallon set up, AND be faster do to less weight. And YES, this includes back to back runs. There is simply NO WAY IN HE__ that a 12 second pass could generate enough heat to "Heat Soak" a 3-5 gallon system, as long as it has a GOOD HE. Simple physics here guys.

You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.

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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 10:10 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by MRAMG1
NOBODY is argueing that the ice reservior is a BAD idea. What I am saying, and staying with, is that NO ONE needs a 13 gallon tank in their trunk. Again, not even IF you are a raod racer. A dragger will get the SAME results in their IAT's with a 3-5 gallon set up, AND be faster do to less weight. And YES, this includes back to back runs. There is simply NO WAY IN HE__ that a 12 second pass could generate enough heat to "Heat Soak" a 3-5 gallon system, as long as it has a GOOD HE. Simple physics here guys.

You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.

I think there is a misunderstanding here. I agree with what you are saying, I questioned the 10+ gallon tank earlier in the thread. My post was just to show potential gains. I found the post with rflow's dyno plot but the picture is now a red X
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 11:02 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by MRAMG1
There is simply NO WAY IN HE__ that a 12 second pass could generate enough heat to "Heat Soak" a 3-5 gallon system, as long as it has a GOOD HE.
Hey Marty,
Actually it can melt the whole batch of ice with one run down the 1/4 mile with a reservoir of less than 5 gallons, sad but true
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 01:11 PM
  #31  
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I'd be happy just to keep the IATs normal on the typical TX summer day.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 01:39 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by JAYCL600
Hey Marty,
Actually it can melt the whole batch of ice with one run down the 1/4 mile with a reservoir of less than 5 gallons, sad but true
Wow! Are you running one or two pumps and what kind of pumps? In other words, how many GPM you pumping?
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 01:51 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Exotic-metal55
Wow! Are you running one or two pumps and what kind of pumps? In other words, how many GPM you pumping?
2 pumps, I run a CM30 inline with a stock pump.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 02:31 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by MRAMG1
Why would you want ANOTHER 100+ lbs in your car

13 gallon is over kill even IF you were a raod racer. Depending on your HE size, sooner or later ANY system is going to reach equalibrium. That is no matter WHAT capacity you have, the temperature IS going to get hot sooner or later. Bottom line guys, don't fill up your entire wheel well with a HUGE tank, it simply wont do a thing for you, except add weight. A large HE coupled with a 2-3 gallon resivoir"SP" will be MORE than adequate for ANY drag racing needs. Also, IF you are using the dry ice system, you do know that you will need LESS water, aka higer temperature differential do to the dry ice. If you would go with a 13 gallon tank, you better also have one HE__ of a LARGE dry ice resoivior as well to cool down all of that water.

Water weighs about 8.3 lbs ea Gallon, the actual Allum Res is like 5lbs tops, The SL600 comes w/Spare tire/wheel inflator machine/roadside tools-kit, it weighed nearly 100lbs I've removed it ALL, so I'm down a 100lbs, adding a better fitting 10 Gallon Reservoir filled will weigh 88 lbs, I'm still 12lbs UNDER STOCK WEIGHT
Have yet to Dyno w/my current 5.5 gallon Res, but she runs like STINK w/ice feels like running the car in dead of winter late @ night, very noticable gains, I think 10 Gallons will be excellent considering current Record holder Marko CL65 is using a 7.5 Gallon Res & runs 10.70's @ 130+ (VRP825 kit)

The extra coolant in 30' 3/4 hose has gotta = at least another 1/2 - 1 gallon

Last edited by Thericker; Aug 28, 2009 at 02:59 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 02:59 PM
  #35  
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^ Does your 5 gallon have a dry ice container?

Someone should dyno with and without ice. If I get mine done soon I will definitely do that. I'm just being lazy ughh

Last edited by blackbenzz; Aug 28, 2009 at 03:01 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 03:01 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by blackbenzz
Someone should dyno with and without ice. If I get mine done soon I will definitely do that. I'm just being lazy ughh
I will def do this, after I get the bigger 10 gallon swapped in

Nope, but it's perfect otherwise only been on my car few wks, & will be sold for no more than I paid $160 delivered..

Last edited by Thericker; Aug 28, 2009 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 03:10 PM
  #37  
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Great find!

How long would something like this take to install?

Thanks

Last edited by Roseylv; Aug 29, 2009 at 01:56 AM.
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 01:47 AM
  #38  
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I built my set up for around 150.00, I run a 750 gph pump and a 6 gal tank. Its not fancy but works, I just put in a fuel cell cap to add ice, and wow what a diffrance. it will melt 20 lbs of ice in less than 5 min. I have pix posted just search my name.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 12:27 AM
  #39  
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i'm super interested in this setup and understand concept.

How do you setup plumbing for this? Reservoir and stock pump in trunk, HE and CM30 up front, heater hoses connecting front and back. Anyone have a diagram for a newbie?

Dry ice has a separate compartment. I assume its not enclosed as pressure would build up and explode right. How does this works? Where does ice go? Inside reservoir or another compartment?

Thanks in advance for any explanations!
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 12:52 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by MRAMG1
NOBODY is argueing that the ice reservior is a BAD idea. What I am saying, and staying with, is that NO ONE needs a 13 gallon tank in their trunk. Again, not even IF you are a raod racer. A dragger will get the SAME results in their IAT's with a 3-5 gallon set up, AND be faster do to less weight. And YES, this includes back to back runs. There is simply NO WAY IN HE__ that a 12 second pass could generate enough heat to "Heat Soak" a 3-5 gallon system, as long as it has a GOOD HE. Simple physics here guys.

You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.

Great post Sean!


Ive seen cars with 3-5 gallon reservoirs filled with ice and water turn to warm water after one burnout and run down the track. I would go with a larger tank for sure on my car. Besides, the extra weight behind the rear wheels actually help with traction and weight transfer. Just my 2 cents.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 01:12 AM
  #41  
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Excellent post.

Thanks for sharing the useful info.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 06:43 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by JAYCL600
Hey Marty,
Actually it can melt the whole batch of ice with one run down the 1/4 mile with a reservoir of less than 5 gallons, sad but true
But this IS my exact point:

So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs It still won't last between runs, atleast at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.

Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and propably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough

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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by MRAMG1
But this IS my exact point:

So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs It still won't last between runs, atleast at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.

Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and propably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough

Or you turn the car off in staging lanes while you wait
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 04:03 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Thericker
Or you turn the car off in staging lanes while you wait
Yeah, yeah, I know this my friend

What I meant was NO MATTER HOW LARGE, pardon my pun, your tank is the ice will melt between runs.

At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.

Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladies

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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MRAMG1
Yeah, yeah, I know this my friend

What I meant was NO MATTER HOW LARGE, pardon my pun, your tank is the ice will melt between runs.

At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.

Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladies

Bro just think Marko's CL65 has this Dual res tank I.E. Ice water & Dry Ice in 7.5 gallon tank, he's runing 22-23PSI & hit 1/4 in 10.73 @ 131 mph (CL65 curb weight is near 4600lbs+) this mod does do wonders for our forced induction autos

It's NOT meant to be a permanent fix, just a junkie fix for occasional st race or few 1/4 mile assaults tho if you look at Sneakyneon's data from adding larger 6 gallon reservoir only, he dropped his IAT's considerably w/just the added volume of coolant fluid, non-iced.

Last edited by Thericker; Sep 2, 2009 at 04:23 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 04:29 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by MRAMG1
But this IS my exact point:

So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs It still won't last between runs, at least at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.

Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and probably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough

let me tell you i wish i had ice to last for 10 minutes, but that wont happen. It was never intended in my specific application to last for more then one run down the strip

Originally Posted by MRAMG1
What I meant was NO MATTER HOW LARGE, pardon my pun, your tank is the ice will melt between runs.

At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.

Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladies

what IC temp are you referring to, do you mean the surface temp or fluid temp...are these figures you have measured or are you speaking in theory? Please dont speak in theory with respect to data that needs to be exact, its only confusing for most. If you have hard data to report like Intake Air Temps, timing, and boot etc with respect to these temps then please do discuss.

Originally Posted by Thericker
Bro just think Marko's CL65 has this Dual res tank I.E. Ice water & Dry Ice in 7.5 gallon tank, he's runing 22-23PSI & hit 1/4 in 10.73 @ 131 mph (CL65 curb weight is near 4600lbs+) this mod does do wonders for our forced induction autos
.
just to note, that on the run you mentioned Marko was not using the dry ice, it was his old 4 or 5 gal alum res.
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #47  
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What size hoses are you guys running from the ice resevoir and back?
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 05:02 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by blackbenzz
What size hoses are you guys running from the ice resevoir and back?
3/4" Goodyear heater hose, grab it @ any Autozone for $1 per foot

just to note, that on the run you mentioned Marko was not using the dry ice, it was his old 4 or 5 gal alum res.
Thanks for the clarification Jay!
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 05:24 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by JAYCL600
let me tell you i wish i had ice to last for 10 minutes, but that wont happen. It was never intended in my specific application to last for more then one run down the strip

what IC temp are you referring to, do you mean the surface temp or fluid temp...are these figures you have measured or are you speaking in theory? Please dont speak in theory with respect to data that needs to be exact, its only confusing for most. If you have hard data to report like Intake Air Temps, timing, and boot etc with respect to these temps then please do discuss.
Yes, I am talking about theory, aka physics.

Anytime you compress air, you increase its temprature. Those temps I stated are basic facts about compressed air. Assuming 100% efficientcy for the IC, whcih will NEVER happen, you would melt ANY amount of ice in a VERY short time period.

Guys, I am NOT argueing here

I BELEIVE IN THE REAR MOUNTED TANK

What I am stating is you will NEVER beat physics, reagurdless of what size tank you use. Simply mount a smaller unit, and change ice, in the stagging lanes without your engine running thank you, before your next run

YOU WILL GET THE SAME RESULTS



PS: I would LOVE to take someone up on this as a bet. Say a 3 gallon vs a 10 gallon same car switch hoses looser pays for tanks/beers/dinner/what ever.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 03:42 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by blackbenzz
Someone should dyno with and without ice. If I get mine done soon I will definitely do that. I'm just being lazy ughh
on my car peak to peak was about 15rwhp, not sure under the curve as I dont have the graphs in front of me. Also not sure if you emailed or texted me earlier, I have been slammed the last few days man. Email me please.
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