IC Reservoir Tanks & Kits, gotta do this for MB bruthas!
08-28-2009, 09:17 AM
#26
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CLS55 AMG
I believe the returns may be greater than the weight itself. For example with the 5+ gallon set up you could run back to back runs without a drop in constant boost, Heat soak becomes a major problem at the V12 level. The heat generated by those 2 snails is immense not to mention the way they are packed under the hood. Mercedes did a poor job in this department. My car gained a 30rwhp from this mod, I have dynos to prove them. I was just using the 5 gallon one at the time with ICE it becomes a deadly combo. y:
V12Godspeed those are some very impressive gains. I cant wait to get my setup installed, thanks for adding some valuable content.
08-28-2009, 09:40 AM
#27
Out Of Control!!
Yea the ice reservoir is definitely an awesome addition. I can't wait to get mine in. But remember that the V8k and V12TT will produce different gains. Bigger crank pulley V8k's benefit even more than stock pulley cars too. I will look for the dyno graph that rflow posted a long time ago of his E55. Made some nice gains with ice. I have seen a couple V12TT cars gain 30ish whp with ice.
08-28-2009, 10:06 AM
#28
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Yea the ice reservoir is definitely an awesome addition. I can't wait to get mine in. But remember that the V8k and V12TT will produce different gains. Bigger crank pulley V8k's benefit even more than stock pulley cars too. I will look for the dyno graph that rflow posted a long time ago of his E55. Made some nice gains with ice. I have seen a couple V12TT cars gain 30ish whp with ice.
You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.
08-28-2009, 10:10 AM
#29
Out Of Control!!
NOBODY is argueing that the ice reservior is a BAD idea. What I am saying, and staying with, is that NO ONE needs a 13 gallon tank in their trunk. Again, not even IF you are a raod racer. A dragger will get the SAME results in their IAT's with a 3-5 gallon set up, AND be faster do to less weight. And YES, this includes back to back runs. There is simply NO WAY IN HE__ that a 12 second pass could generate enough heat to "Heat Soak" a 3-5 gallon system, as long as it has a GOOD HE. Simple physics here guys.
You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.
You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.
08-28-2009, 11:02 AM
#30
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Actually it can melt the whole batch of ice with one run down the 1/4 mile with a reservoir of less than 5 gallons, sad but true
08-28-2009, 01:39 PM
#32
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Wow! Are you running one or two pumps and what kind of pumps? In other words, how many GPM you pumping?
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
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08-28-2009, 01:51 PM
#33
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08-28-2009, 02:31 PM
#34
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V12-Biturbo
Why would you want ANOTHER 100+ lbs in your car
13 gallon is over kill even IF you were a raod racer. Depending on your HE size, sooner or later ANY system is going to reach equalibrium. That is no matter WHAT capacity you have, the temperature IS going to get hot sooner or later. Bottom line guys, don't fill up your entire wheel well with a HUGE tank, it simply wont do a thing for you, except add weight. A large HE coupled with a 2-3 gallon resivoir"SP" will be MORE than adequate for ANY drag racing needs. Also, IF you are using the dry ice system, you do know that you will need LESS water, aka higer temperature differential do to the dry ice. If you would go with a 13 gallon tank, you better also have one HE__ of a LARGE dry ice resoivior as well to cool down all of that water.
13 gallon is over kill even IF you were a raod racer. Depending on your HE size, sooner or later ANY system is going to reach equalibrium. That is no matter WHAT capacity you have, the temperature IS going to get hot sooner or later. Bottom line guys, don't fill up your entire wheel well with a HUGE tank, it simply wont do a thing for you, except add weight. A large HE coupled with a 2-3 gallon resivoir"SP" will be MORE than adequate for ANY drag racing needs. Also, IF you are using the dry ice system, you do know that you will need LESS water, aka higer temperature differential do to the dry ice. If you would go with a 13 gallon tank, you better also have one HE__ of a LARGE dry ice resoivior as well to cool down all of that water.
Have yet to Dyno w/my current 5.5 gallon Res, but she runs like STINK w/ice feels like running the car in dead of winter late @ night, very noticable gains, I think 10 Gallons will be excellent considering current Record holder Marko CL65 is using a 7.5 Gallon Res & runs 10.70's @ 130+ (VRP825 kit)
The extra coolant in 30' 3/4 hose has gotta = at least another 1/2 - 1 gallon
Last edited by Thericker; 08-28-2009 at 02:59 PM.
08-28-2009, 02:59 PM
#35
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^ Does your 5 gallon have a dry ice container?
Someone should dyno with and without ice. If I get mine done soon I will definitely do that. I'm just being lazy ughh
Someone should dyno with and without ice. If I get mine done soon I will definitely do that. I'm just being lazy ughh
Last edited by blackbenzz; 08-28-2009 at 03:01 PM.
08-28-2009, 03:01 PM
#36
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V12-Biturbo
Nope, but it's perfect otherwise only been on my car few wks, & will be sold for no more than I paid $160 delivered..
Last edited by Thericker; 08-28-2009 at 03:04 PM.
08-29-2009, 01:47 AM
#38
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I built my set up for around 150.00, I run a 750 gph pump and a 6 gal tank. Its not fancy but works, I just put in a fuel cell cap to add ice, and wow what a diffrance. it will melt 20 lbs of ice in less than 5 min. I have pix posted just search my name.
09-02-2009, 12:27 AM
#39
Senior Member
i'm super interested in this setup and understand concept.
How do you setup plumbing for this? Reservoir and stock pump in trunk, HE and CM30 up front, heater hoses connecting front and back. Anyone have a diagram for a newbie?
Dry ice has a separate compartment. I assume its not enclosed as pressure would build up and explode right. How does this works? Where does ice go? Inside reservoir or another compartment?
Thanks in advance for any explanations!
How do you setup plumbing for this? Reservoir and stock pump in trunk, HE and CM30 up front, heater hoses connecting front and back. Anyone have a diagram for a newbie?
Dry ice has a separate compartment. I assume its not enclosed as pressure would build up and explode right. How does this works? Where does ice go? Inside reservoir or another compartment?
Thanks in advance for any explanations!
09-02-2009, 12:52 AM
#40
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NOBODY is argueing that the ice reservior is a BAD idea. What I am saying, and staying with, is that NO ONE needs a 13 gallon tank in their trunk. Again, not even IF you are a raod racer. A dragger will get the SAME results in their IAT's with a 3-5 gallon set up, AND be faster do to less weight. And YES, this includes back to back runs. There is simply NO WAY IN HE__ that a 12 second pass could generate enough heat to "Heat Soak" a 3-5 gallon system, as long as it has a GOOD HE. Simple physics here guys.
You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.
You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.
Ive seen cars with 3-5 gallon reservoirs filled with ice and water turn to warm water after one burnout and run down the track. I would go with a larger tank for sure on my car. Besides, the extra weight behind the rear wheels actually help with traction and weight transfer.
Just my 2 cents.
09-02-2009, 06:43 AM
#42
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So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs
It still won't last between runs, atleast at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and propably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough
09-02-2009, 03:47 PM
#43
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V12-Biturbo
But this IS my exact point:
So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs It still won't last between runs, atleast at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.
Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and propably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough
So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs
It still won't last between runs, atleast at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and propably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough
09-02-2009, 04:03 PM
#44
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Yeah, yeah, I know this my friend
What I meant was NO MATTER HOW LARGE, pardon my pun, your tank is the ice will melt between runs.
At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.
Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladies
What I meant was NO MATTER HOW LARGE, pardon my pun, your tank is the ice will melt between runs.
At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.
Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it
, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladies
09-02-2009, 04:17 PM
#45
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V12-Biturbo
Yeah, yeah, I know this my friend
What I meant was NO MATTER HOW LARGE, pardon my pun, your tank is the ice will melt between runs.
At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.
Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladies
What I meant was NO MATTER HOW LARGE, pardon my pun, your tank is the ice will melt between runs.
At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.
Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it
, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladiesIt's NOT meant to be a permanent fix, just a junkie fix for occasional st race or few 1/4 mile assaults
tho if you look at Sneakyneon's data from adding larger 6 gallon reservoir only, he dropped his IAT's considerably w/just the added volume of coolant fluid, non-iced.
Last edited by Thericker; 09-02-2009 at 04:23 PM.
09-02-2009, 04:29 PM
#46
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But this IS my exact point:
So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs It still won't last between runs, at least at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.
Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and probably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough
So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs
It still won't last between runs, at least at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and probably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough
What I meant was NO MATTER HOW LARGE, pardon my pun, your tank is the ice will melt between runs.
At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.
Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladies
At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.
Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it
, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladiesjust to note, that on the run you mentioned Marko was not using the dry ice, it was his old 4 or 5 gal alum res.
09-02-2009, 05:02 PM
#48
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V12-Biturbo
just to note, that on the run you mentioned Marko was not using the dry ice, it was his old 4 or 5 gal alum res.
09-02-2009, 05:24 PM
#49
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let me tell you i wish i had ice to last for 10 minutes, but that wont happen. It was never intended in my specific application to last for more then one run down the strip
what IC temp are you referring to, do you mean the surface temp or fluid temp...are these figures you have measured or are you speaking in theory? Please dont speak in theory with respect to data that needs to be exact, its only confusing for most. If you have hard data to report like Intake Air Temps, timing, and boot etc with respect to these temps then please do discuss.
what IC temp are you referring to, do you mean the surface temp or fluid temp...are these figures you have measured or are you speaking in theory? Please dont speak in theory with respect to data that needs to be exact, its only confusing for most. If you have hard data to report like Intake Air Temps, timing, and boot etc with respect to these temps then please do discuss.
Anytime you compress air, you increase its temprature. Those temps I stated are basic facts about compressed air. Assuming 100% efficientcy for the IC, whcih will NEVER happen, you would melt ANY amount of ice in a VERY short time period.
Guys, I am NOT argueing here
I BELEIVE IN THE REAR MOUNTED TANK
What I am stating is you will NEVER beat physics, reagurdless of what size tank you use. Simply mount a smaller unit, and change ice, in the stagging lanes without your engine running thank you, before your next run
YOU WILL GET THE SAME RESULTS
PS: I would LOVE to take someone up on this as a bet. Say a 3 gallon vs a 10 gallon same car switch hoses looser pays for tanks/beers/dinner/what ever.
09-03-2009, 03:42 PM
#50
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