IC Reservoir Tanks & Kits, gotta do this for MB bruthas!
V12Godspeed those are some very impressive gains. I cant wait to get my setup installed, thanks for adding some valuable content.
You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.
You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.

Actually it can melt the whole batch of ice with one run down the 1/4 mile with a reservoir of less than 5 gallons, sad but true

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13 gallon is over kill even IF you were a raod racer. Depending on your HE size, sooner or later ANY system is going to reach equalibrium. That is no matter WHAT capacity you have, the temperature IS going to get hot sooner or later. Bottom line guys, don't fill up your entire wheel well with a HUGE tank, it simply wont do a thing for you, except add weight. A large HE coupled with a 2-3 gallon resivoir"SP" will be MORE than adequate for ANY drag racing needs. Also, IF you are using the dry ice system, you do know that you will need LESS water, aka higer temperature differential do to the dry ice. If you would go with a 13 gallon tank, you better also have one HE__ of a LARGE dry ice resoivior as well to cool down all of that water.



Have yet to Dyno w/my current 5.5 gallon Res, but she runs like STINK w/ice feels like running the car in dead of winter late @ night, very noticable gains, I think 10 Gallons will be excellent considering current Record holder Marko CL65 is using a 7.5 Gallon Res & runs 10.70's @ 130+ (VRP825 kit)
The extra coolant in 30' 3/4 hose has gotta = at least another 1/2 - 1 gallon
Last edited by Thericker; Aug 28, 2009 at 02:59 PM.
Someone should dyno with and without ice. If I get mine done soon I will definitely do that. I'm just being lazy ughh
Last edited by blackbenzz; Aug 28, 2009 at 03:01 PM.

Nope, but it's perfect otherwise only been on my car few wks, & will be sold for no more than I paid $160 delivered..
Last edited by Thericker; Aug 28, 2009 at 03:04 PM.
How do you setup plumbing for this? Reservoir and stock pump in trunk, HE and CM30 up front, heater hoses connecting front and back. Anyone have a diagram for a newbie?
Dry ice has a separate compartment. I assume its not enclosed as pressure would build up and explode right. How does this works? Where does ice go? Inside reservoir or another compartment?
Thanks in advance for any explanations!
You can also look at this way if you don't beleive me, how does 3 gallons of water keep your engine from over heating then? And that 3 gallons has a substainaly larger amount of heat to disapate.

Ive seen cars with 3-5 gallon reservoirs filled with ice and water turn to warm water after one burnout and run down the track. I would go with a larger tank for sure on my car. Besides, the extra weight behind the rear wheels actually help with traction and weight transfer.
So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs
It still won't last between runs, atleast at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and propably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough

So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs
It still won't last between runs, atleast at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and propably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough





What I meant was NO MATTER HOW LARGE, pardon my pun, your tank is the ice will melt between runs.
At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.
Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it
, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladies


What I meant was NO MATTER HOW LARGE, pardon my pun, your tank is the ice will melt between runs.
At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.
Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it
, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladies


It's NOT meant to be a permanent fix, just a junkie fix for occasional st race or few 1/4 mile assaults
tho if you look at Sneakyneon's data from adding larger 6 gallon reservoir only, he dropped his IAT's considerably w/just the added volume of coolant fluid, non-iced.
Last edited by Thericker; Sep 2, 2009 at 04:23 PM.
So if you had ten gallons, it would last for 10 minutes, and you get to carry around another 50 lbs
It still won't last between runs, at least at my tracks were you have to wait 30 minutes or so between fun runs.Simply drain, and add more ice. Oh well, to each their own, but I would and probably will put a small 3-4 gallon in my trunk soon enough


At best your IC will be around 195 degrees, aka engine temp. Factor in Boost "PV=NRT" and you have temps OVER 230, and that is with ONLY 10 pounds my friends. Get near 20+ and you have 300+ degree temps to deal with. This is based on outside temps being about 70 I made add.
Bottom line, no matter how BIG you make it
, it still will equalize VERY fast. Sorry ladies

just to note, that on the run you mentioned Marko was not using the dry ice, it was his old 4 or 5 gal alum res.
what IC temp are you referring to, do you mean the surface temp or fluid temp...are these figures you have measured or are you speaking in theory? Please dont speak in theory with respect to data that needs to be exact, its only confusing for most. If you have hard data to report like Intake Air Temps, timing, and boot etc with respect to these temps then please do discuss.
Anytime you compress air, you increase its temprature. Those temps I stated are basic facts about compressed air. Assuming 100% efficientcy for the IC, whcih will NEVER happen, you would melt ANY amount of ice in a VERY short time period.
Guys, I am NOT argueing here

I BELEIVE IN THE REAR MOUNTED TANK

What I am stating is you will NEVER beat physics, reagurdless of what size tank you use. Simply mount a smaller unit, and change ice, in the stagging lanes without your engine running thank you, before your next run

YOU WILL GET THE SAME RESULTS


PS: I would LOVE to take someone up on this as a bet. Say a 3 gallon vs a 10 gallon same car switch hoses looser pays for tanks/beers/dinner/what ever.









