HOW TO: Valve Seal Replacement
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 745
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14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Actually, I know why I didn't order the rocker bridge bolts. I don't have the part number for them. Anyone happen to have that part number and know how many are needed?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,793
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From: San Diego
2004 E55
If I remember correctly there were two different length bolts, most of them were long, and I think two on each side were shorter... but you can verify when you pull them off.
For those bolts I see two stage torque: 8 Nm, then second stage is a 120* turn.
Can't remember the part number but you should be able to call it in and ask for the Camshaft Bearing Bridge bolts.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
1999 E320
valve seal replacement
Good job man.
Am trying to do the same to my car, but I would have some questions I need them answered plzzzzz.
1. How much air pressure needed so the valve wont fall inside the cylinder??
2.what is the torque specs of the rocker arm bolts and the valve cover bolts??
Thanks in advance
Am trying to do the same to my car, but I would have some questions I need them answered plzzzzz.
1. How much air pressure needed so the valve wont fall inside the cylinder??
2.what is the torque specs of the rocker arm bolts and the valve cover bolts??
Thanks in advance
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 745
Likes: 139
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
If I remember correctly there were two different length bolts, most of them were long, and I think two on each side were shorter... but you can verify when you pull them off.
For those bolts I see two stage torque: 8 Nm, then second stage is a 120* turn.
Can't remember the part number but you should be able to call it in and ask for the Camshaft Bearing Bridge bolts.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,755
Likes: 628
From: Emmett, ID, USA
2007 GL450
Another guy and I are suffering oil consumption on our GL450s. Exhausted other possibilities and probably will have to undertake this at some point. Comments thus far are on a couple of different threads on the GL-Class forum.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 65
Likes: 9
SL500 R230 2004
I replaced my seals and did it sort of the same and sort of differently.
I used a different tool, found on eBay, that looked just like this. It was adequate for both exhaust and intake valves and did not require the removal of anything extra aside from the rocker bridge. You will need to take the rocker bridge off obviously, but you do not need to remove the cams or supercharger, or affect the timing at all.
As the tool doesn't mount perfectly to the engine, I had to go to a hardware store and purchase some longer bolts of the same thread and pitch as the rocker bridge bolts, and some washers to stand the tool off of the head a bit so it did not gnash anything. After that it was fine and just a matter of playing with different hole configurations to get the right angle on the valve. I used small hose clamps on either end of the middle pole on the tool to keep it from sliding free.
My valve retainers were stuck on pretty good so I put a large socket over them and gave it a few good taps with a hammer to loosen everything up, otherwise the valve and spring just kept depressing all the way into the cylinder. I also used the rope method, removed one spark plug and threaded a nylon rope into the cylinder, then rotated the engine until I could feel it go no further. This was more than sufficient for keeping the valve from dropping.
The rocker bridge bolts are torque-to-yield so they should all be replaced. If you use the tool above and do not remove the cams, there will be no need to adjust any timing or anything other than reinstalling whatever you removed.
Should also add:
1. If you use the rope, put as much in there as you can. I threaded in somewhere around 8 feet I believe. Also slightly depress the valve when removing the rope to avoid risk of the valve catching the rope and making your life more difficult than it needs to be.
2. I had to tap my retainers to break them from the seals.... But I had to tap it with a deep well socket and a mini-sledge. There might be an easier way to break it loose, but I didn't know of one lol.
3. Do a leak-down test first to make sure you're losing oil, then also to tell you where you're losing it.
I used a different tool, found on eBay, that looked just like this. It was adequate for both exhaust and intake valves and did not require the removal of anything extra aside from the rocker bridge. You will need to take the rocker bridge off obviously, but you do not need to remove the cams or supercharger, or affect the timing at all.
As the tool doesn't mount perfectly to the engine, I had to go to a hardware store and purchase some longer bolts of the same thread and pitch as the rocker bridge bolts, and some washers to stand the tool off of the head a bit so it did not gnash anything. After that it was fine and just a matter of playing with different hole configurations to get the right angle on the valve. I used small hose clamps on either end of the middle pole on the tool to keep it from sliding free.
My valve retainers were stuck on pretty good so I put a large socket over them and gave it a few good taps with a hammer to loosen everything up, otherwise the valve and spring just kept depressing all the way into the cylinder. I also used the rope method, removed one spark plug and threaded a nylon rope into the cylinder, then rotated the engine until I could feel it go no further. This was more than sufficient for keeping the valve from dropping.
The rocker bridge bolts are torque-to-yield so they should all be replaced. If you use the tool above and do not remove the cams, there will be no need to adjust any timing or anything other than reinstalling whatever you removed.
Should also add:
1. If you use the rope, put as much in there as you can. I threaded in somewhere around 8 feet I believe. Also slightly depress the valve when removing the rope to avoid risk of the valve catching the rope and making your life more difficult than it needs to be.
2. I had to tap my retainers to break them from the seals.... But I had to tap it with a deep well socket and a mini-sledge. There might be an easier way to break it loose, but I didn't know of one lol.
3. Do a leak-down test first to make sure you're losing oil, then also to tell you where you're losing it.
This inspired me to replace my oil valve stem seals. I too did mine without taking the camshaft or super charger out. The pictures and write up here is fantastic,. My car is a Mercedes Sl55 amg R230, 2004.
I could not find a video anywhere for this particular car, the pictures in this thread are almost exactly the same as my car, hopefully this will compliment the thread and help others.
So I have made a video of myself doing this, I have never done this type of job before. It was very time consuming, but I have saved a few hundred pounds by doing it myself. The tools I used are exactly the same as the red coloured tool box in this thread, I think I paid about £40 from ebay.
Here's the link for part 1, there are more parts due to the short lengths that can be uploaded.
Last edited by kalsingh1; Jul 28, 2017 at 11:45 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 384
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From: Sweden
E55 AMG V8 Kompressor 2004 E 55 AMG Type: 5,439 cc (5.439 L; 331.9 cu in) Supercharged V8 Powe
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Newbie
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5
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None at the moment
I would love to know if this solved oil consumption also
To the orig poster and others who have done this: Did this help or solve the oil consumption problem? The white smoke on startup thing? Thanks in advance for any advice!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,755
Likes: 628
From: Emmett, ID, USA
2007 GL450
Oil in the combustion chamber, leaking in from rings or intake valve seals, might yield blue to sooty smoke. That's your two-stroke engine smoke.
Oil into the exhaust, such as down the exhaust valve seals, makes a white steam-like smoke. The reason it looks like steam is because the mechanism is similar: Tiny water droplets (steam) look like tiny oil droplets. Skywriting looks like clouds because it's made by squirting oil into the exhaust.
You could make a nifty James Bond style fog by injecting oil into your exhaust - after the catalytic converter, of course. Some battle tanks do similar when they need to do low speed evasion.
The catalytic converters can handle a fair amount of oil in the exhaust. Hence you might see white smoke when the cats are cold. It is also more likely to be visible when the engine has been idling, as oil has accumulated on the back side of the exhaust valve. You might see a puff of smoke when you start up from a traffic light. The cats also cool down when idling.
If you see smoke continuously in your rear view mirror, your engine does not have long to live, either way.
Water (steam) is normal from a cold exhaust. However, it dissipates quickly. This is why they don't do sky writing with water!
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 32
Likes: 7
MY2000 SL500
Great write-ups all!
I did this job a couple of years ago on my 80k mile 2001 SL500. I only did #1 cylinder as that was the only one fouling the plugs ... if it ain't broke don't "fix" it.
New valve seals did not fix the cylinder 1 plugs fouling problem
so now I change those two plugs every spring.
The engine runs like clockwork, goes like a rocket, and no codes are showing up on my C3 diagnostic tool.
Compression is between 185 and 200 psi on all 8 cylinders.
Leak down test is around 80/75 on all cylinders.
Bore scope investigation shows some carbon build up on #1 compared to the other 7 cylinders.
So now I'm searching for the cause of this problem ... where is the oil getting in? Can it be something to do with the intake manifold?
I'm reluctant to pull things apart again unless I know exactly what to fix.
Any advice/ideas welcome!
Peter.
I did this job a couple of years ago on my 80k mile 2001 SL500. I only did #1 cylinder as that was the only one fouling the plugs ... if it ain't broke don't "fix" it.
New valve seals did not fix the cylinder 1 plugs fouling problem
so now I change those two plugs every spring.The engine runs like clockwork, goes like a rocket, and no codes are showing up on my C3 diagnostic tool.
Compression is between 185 and 200 psi on all 8 cylinders.
Leak down test is around 80/75 on all cylinders.
Bore scope investigation shows some carbon build up on #1 compared to the other 7 cylinders.
So now I'm searching for the cause of this problem ... where is the oil getting in? Can it be something to do with the intake manifold?
I'm reluctant to pull things apart again unless I know exactly what to fix.
Any advice/ideas welcome!
Peter.
Member
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 92
Likes: 4
Sl55 amg 2002
Sl55 amg 2003
Beginning to start and get ready for my valve stem seal job
just want a few pointers and tips
i believe it can be done with cams in
so my idea is
valve spring compressor and cam locking tool to remove the cam bridge
isit just the basis off
feeding rope into the cylinder and bringing the piston up to stop valves dropping
my questions are
I use the cam locking tool to remove cam bridge once removed i can take off locking tool to spin the crank to bring pistons up, once all valve seals are done i just bring back to 40degree timing put locking tool back in and reinstall cam bridge?
i am aware you can pressurize cylinders and also remove the camshaft to do the job
but i want to keep it basic as possible and leave myself a steady job instead of worrying about timing and chain skipping etc
hope all makes sense any pointers will be much appreciated it
Beginning to start and get ready for my valve stem seal job
just want a few pointers and tips
i believe it can be done with cams in
so my idea is
valve spring compressor and cam locking tool to remove the cam bridge
isit just the basis off
feeding rope into the cylinder and bringing the piston up to stop valves dropping
my questions are
I use the cam locking tool to remove cam bridge once removed i can take off locking tool to spin the crank to bring pistons up, once all valve seals are done i just bring back to 40degree timing put locking tool back in and reinstall cam bridge?
i am aware you can pressurize cylinders and also remove the camshaft to do the job
but i want to keep it basic as possible and leave myself a steady job instead of worrying about timing and chain skipping etc
hope all makes sense any pointers will be much appreciated it
