sneakyneon

So ive been using the Thermalnator gaskets on the surge tanks and on the mating surface between the head and the SC for about 4 months now, with in the first month i pushed out the #8 cyl gaskets in the surge tank, theres a thin area on the inside and you could clearly see it pushed out, Determined to make it work I heated up and reshaped (there plastic) and this time used silicone to hold it in place instead of just the gasket. Well last weekend I noticed that I started getting random readinging on my wide band and a idle that would be irregular at stops, I did a boost check and could hear air coming out at the SC flange to the head this time(GREAT!! get to pull the SC again) Sure enough it pushed the inside edge out on #1 cyl this time. Ive seen this used by some of the vendors on here and would love to hear some feedback on what your luck has been with them? I contacted the manufacture and they were very willing to work with me and redesign the product if needed to make it work, so thats good news. To me it appears that the fit is just not very good and that the material maybe to soft to keep its shape.

MB_Forever

I know of more than enough cases where the spacers have leaked on the 55k engines, and were either replaced or removed, so it's not unusual. I would like to hear vendor feedback as well, especially the ones that sell them?

By the way, was it the phenolic spacer or thermalnator brand that you purchased? Do you have pics or links to the actual spacers?

chiromikey

definitely not the first time i've heard of this. gl with the redesign!

blackbenzz

Did you use stock gaskets on both sides of the spacer?

Zod

There are only 2 tpyes that i am aware of and that are sold

to which are most of you refering to?

sneakyneon

One seconed and I'll post up some pics, The is gasket is semi soft plastic and per the manufacture requires no other gaskets.

Tech-Tune

Unless there is a flaw in the design, stock gaskets (on both sides of the spacers) should resolve the intake leak.

Jakpro1

+1, I am running spacers each side. Course that is gonna boost up height on some parts. Just a heads up.

If your current SC belt is super tight, she may not fit after. (stock belts will be fine) I forgot what mods, if any you have on er.

sneakyneon

Here is just a few, but you can see how the gasket is pushed out of shape on cyc 1 and that the gasket it self it basicly to big to fit correctly. Id be screwed if I had to pay someone to do this job!

Roseylv

Sneaky,

Thanks for the PM reply...those were the pics you were referring too right?

I'm going to have my MB tech pull my spacers and then I'm going to see if I can make the switch back down in s/c belt size. I feel like my bigger belt could be slipping a bit!

I mentioned in another thread that I bumped up in belt size and went with a gates k080525 from the K080514 (which had shredded more than likely b/c of the spacers).

sneakyneon

Pretty sure there a flaw and an intake gaskets not going to fix this.

sneakyneon

I was refering to pictures of the tool I made to alow you to compress the whole system so you can find leaks, If your not doing your own work on your car the tools not going to be much use. But still if you want some images and Ideas how to make your own I'll gladly share.

Tech-Tune

I believe your right.
Ideally the spacers should mimic the dimensions of the intake gaskets to avoid turbulence and/or air leaks.

Those are way off and look poorly made. I suggest you not use them.

blackbenzz

+1

PTE

There is quite of bit a space between clamping area. ( Bolt Holes ). Which means that the clamp load between the bolts are less than the area around the bolts. If you look at the OEM Intake gasket. It is a 3 layer assy. The outer layer are a composite type material that is bonded to a Metal core. The assy also has stamped raised sealing ridge, Some areas of this ridge will flatten down a little , some areas will still have a very little ridge. This all helps seal & holds the seal against expansion & ( Hot engine ) & contraction (Cool engine) You may have two or Three options to resolve this type of issues. metal mating surface area must be very clean & oil free & dry. It you use the soft gasket (free) type Thermalater Heat spacer , I would suggest a attachment bolt Re torque after a motor has been brought to temp. Then cooled down. After the cool down ,re torque. I would do this a couple of times. You could increase the manifold clamping bolt torque , but I would switch to studs & Nuts.
I've always used a hard phenolic heat spacers , with a OEM gasket between it & The Head & Intake manifold. Cheers _PTEngineering

shardul

iTrader: (1)

Nice write up, thank you

jangy

Thermolators, LOL!!!! Who remembrs having this conversation and having the vendor run at the mouth about how these are so special as not to have the issue?

Zod

So are these the ones MHP was advertising?
Or are they the evo ones?

jangy

I dunno, but my bet is Mouth Has Power

Zod

Lol that name is so fitting X)

sneakyneon

I bought these from the manufacture(sikky), but there is a vendor on the board that is curently selling these and very active in posting but not in this thread....

sneakyneon

Thanks for the input! I wanted to go to a stud but the local fastener company could not come up with a stud long enough, it either was shanked or to short. For now I'm switching back to the stock lowers, I think if I get another set I think I will use a bonding agent of adhere at least one side but still wonder if the soft material will not push out over time? I would have to say that that any gain seen here is not worth the headache.
On a side note, this is the seconded time I’ve had the SC off, It was sooo much easier than the first time! Still as heavy though...

sneakyneon

I'm a bit supprised no one asked about my oil catch can.....

ahmad0658

I have the same spacers .. also on TB housing that is attached to the supercharger which makes a problem and I don't know, is it the technician who fit them, or the spacer at this area. I noticed a leak from this place and when I looked i saw the the spacer from the middle is going up!!!!! I just knocked down and everything went fine but I think i need to do what PTE suggested:

1-Re torque all after the motor got hot.
2-Re torque when motor got cold later but not too much.

I hope that it will be fine later.

sneakyneon

I did not put one in that spot, but that area is not under boost so if its pushing out its do to poor fitment from the bolt holes not matching up and sqeezing the gasket, This was a problem with my set as well