Boost leaks with Thermalnator
#1
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Boost leaks with Thermalnator
So ive been using the Thermalnator gaskets on the surge tanks and on the mating surface between the head and the SC for about 4 months now, with in the first month i pushed out the #8 cyl gaskets in the surge tank, theres a thin area on the inside and you could clearly see it pushed out, Determined to make it work I heated up and reshaped (there plastic) and this time used silicone to hold it in place instead of just the gasket. Well last weekend I noticed that I started getting random readinging on my wide band and a idle that would be irregular at stops, I did a boost check and could hear air coming out at the SC flange to the head this time(GREAT!! get to pull the SC again) Sure enough it pushed the inside edge out on #1 cyl this time. Ive seen this used by some of the vendors on here and would love to hear some feedback on what your luck has been with them? I contacted the manufacture and they were very willing to work with me and redesign the product if needed to make it work, so thats good news. To me it appears that the fit is just not very good and that the material maybe to soft to keep its shape.
#2
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
So ive been using the Thermalnator gaskets on the surge tanks and on the mating surface between the head and the SC for about 4 months now, with in the first month i pushed out the #8 cyl gaskets in the surge tank, theres a thin area on the inside and you could clearly see it pushed out, Determined to make it work I heated up and reshaped (there plastic) and this time used silicone to hold it in place instead of just the gasket. Well last weekend I noticed that I started getting random readinging on my wide band and a idle that would be irregular at stops, I did a boost check and could hear air coming out at the SC flange to the head this time(GREAT!! get to pull the SC again) Sure enough it pushed the inside edge out on #1 cyl this time. Ive seen this used by some of the vendors on here and would love to hear some feedback on what your luck has been with them? I contacted the manufacture and they were very willing to work with me and redesign the product if needed to make it work, so thats good news. To me it appears that the fit is just not very good and that the material maybe to soft to keep its shape.
By the way, was it the phenolic spacer or thermalnator brand that you purchased? Do you have pics or links to the actual spacers?
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#8
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
If your current SC belt is super tight, she may not fit after. (stock belts will be fine) I forgot what mods, if any you have on er.
#9
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Here is just a few, but you can see how the gasket is pushed out of shape on cyc 1 and that the gasket it self it basicly to big to fit correctly. Id be screwed if I had to pay someone to do this job!
#10
Sneaky,
Thanks for the PM reply...those were the pics you were referring too right?
I'm going to have my MB tech pull my spacers and then I'm going to see if I can make the switch back down in s/c belt size. I feel like my bigger belt could be slipping a bit!
I mentioned in another thread that I bumped up in belt size and went with a gates k080525 from the K080514 (which had shredded more than likely b/c of the spacers).
Thanks for the PM reply...those were the pics you were referring too right?
I'm going to have my MB tech pull my spacers and then I'm going to see if I can make the switch back down in s/c belt size. I feel like my bigger belt could be slipping a bit!
I mentioned in another thread that I bumped up in belt size and went with a gates k080525 from the K080514 (which had shredded more than likely b/c of the spacers).
#11
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#12
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Sneaky,
Thanks for the PM reply...those were the pics you were referring too right?
I'm going to have my MB tech pull my spacers and then I'm going to see if I can make the switch back down in s/c belt size. I feel like my bigger belt could be slipping a bit!
I mentioned in another thread that I bumped up in belt size and went with a gates k080525 from the K080514 (which had shredded more than likely b/c of the spacers).
Thanks for the PM reply...those were the pics you were referring too right?
I'm going to have my MB tech pull my spacers and then I'm going to see if I can make the switch back down in s/c belt size. I feel like my bigger belt could be slipping a bit!
I mentioned in another thread that I bumped up in belt size and went with a gates k080525 from the K080514 (which had shredded more than likely b/c of the spacers).
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Out Of Control!!
#15
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05 ML-500 , 03 CLK5.5 AMG has left the Garage
Heat spacers
There is quite of bit a space between clamping area. ( Bolt Holes ). Which means that the clamp load between the bolts are less than the area around the bolts. If you look at the OEM Intake gasket. It is a 3 layer assy. The outer layer are a composite type material that is bonded to a Metal core. The assy also has stamped raised sealing ridge, Some areas of this ridge will flatten down a little , some areas will still have a very little ridge. This all helps seal & holds the seal against expansion & ( Hot engine ) & contraction (Cool engine) You may have two or Three options to resolve this type of issues. metal mating surface area must be very clean & oil free & dry. It you use the soft gasket (free) type Thermalater Heat spacer , I would suggest a attachment bolt Re torque after a motor has been brought to temp. Then cooled down. After the cool down ,re torque. I would do this a couple of times. You could increase the manifold clamping bolt torque , but I would switch to studs & Nuts.
I've always used a hard phenolic heat spacers , with a OEM gasket between it & The Head & Intake manifold. Cheers _PTEngineering
I've always used a hard phenolic heat spacers , with a OEM gasket between it & The Head & Intake manifold. Cheers _PTEngineering
Last edited by PTE; 04-24-2010 at 08:02 AM.
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2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
There is quite of bit a space between clamping area. ( Bolt Holes ). Which means that the clamp load between the bolts are less than the area around the bolts. If you look at the OEM Intake gasket. It is a 3 layer assy. The outer layer are a composite type material that is bonded to a Metal core. The assy also has stamped raised sealing ridge, Some areas of this ridge will flatten down a little , some areas will still have a very little ridge. This all helps seal & holds the seal against expansion & ( Hot engine ) & contraction (Cool engine) You may have two or Three options to resolve this type of issues. metal mating surface area must be very clean & oil free & dry. It you use the soft gasket (free) type Thermalater Heat spacer , I would suggest a attachment bolt Re torque after a motor has been brought to temp. Then cooled down. After the cool down ,re torque. I would do this a couple of times. You could increase the manifold clamping bolt torque , but I would switch to studs & Nuts.
I've always used a hard phenolic heat spacers , with a OEM gasket between it & The Head & Intake manifold. Cheers _PTEngineering
I've always used a hard phenolic heat spacers , with a OEM gasket between it & The Head & Intake manifold. Cheers _PTEngineering
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#21
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I bought these from the manufacture(sikky), but there is a vendor on the board that is curently selling these and very active in posting but not in this thread....
#22
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Thread Starter
There is quite of bit a space between clamping area. ( Bolt Holes ). Which means that the clamp load between the bolts are less than the area around the bolts. If you look at the OEM Intake gasket. It is a 3 layer assy. The outer layer are a composite type material that is bonded to a Metal core. The assy also has stamped raised sealing ridge, Some areas of this ridge will flatten down a little , some areas will still have a very little ridge. This all helps seal & holds the seal against expansion & ( Hot engine ) & contraction (Cool engine) You may have two or Three options to resolve this type of issues. metal mating surface area must be very clean & oil free & dry. It you use the soft gasket (free) type Thermalater Heat spacer , I would suggest a attachment bolt Re torque after a motor has been brought to temp. Then cooled down. After the cool down ,re torque. I would do this a couple of times. You could increase the manifold clamping bolt torque , but I would switch to studs & Nuts.
I've always used a hard phenolic heat spacers , with a OEM gasket between it & The Head & Intake manifold. Cheers _PTEngineering
I've always used a hard phenolic heat spacers , with a OEM gasket between it & The Head & Intake manifold. Cheers _PTEngineering
On a side note, this is the seconded time I’ve had the SC off, It was sooo much easier than the first time! Still as heavy though...
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Brabus K8 E55 05
I have the same spacers .. also on TB housing that is attached to the supercharger which makes a problem and I don't know, is it the technician who fit them, or the spacer at this area. I noticed a leak from this place and when I looked i saw the the spacer from the middle is going up!!!!! I just knocked down and everything went fine but I think i need to do what PTE suggested:
1-Re torque all after the motor got hot.
2-Re torque when motor got cold later but not too much.
I hope that it will be fine later.
1-Re torque all after the motor got hot.
2-Re torque when motor got cold later but not too much.
I hope that it will be fine later.
#25
Super Member
Thread Starter
I have the same spacers .. also on TB housing that is attached to the supercharger which makes a problem and I don't know, is it the technician who fit them, or the spacer at this area. I noticed a leak from this place and when I looked i saw the the spacer from the middle is going up!!!!! I just knocked down and everything went fine but I think i need to do what PTE suggested:
1-Re torque all after the motor got hot.
2-Re torque when motor got cold later but not too much.
I hope that it will be fine later.
1-Re torque all after the motor got hot.
2-Re torque when motor got cold later but not too much.
I hope that it will be fine later.