Drag setup, ET's, technique, and mod list...
#1
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Drag setup, ET's, technique, and mod list...
I've been asked multiple times what kind of mods, drag set up, and etc. I've decided to start a thread in hopes of helping others find the right combination for their needs. I'm also hoping that others will chime in and list the items mentioned in the title. This will definitely give people a better understanding of what it might take to reach their goals.
As for what stage I have.... Here it is fellas a 10 second map, take it for what it is. The mods below is what I got my best time with, plain and simple. Oh yeah, this was done on a 91 tune mixed with 100 octane race gas.
1. Jeremy custom tune
2. Floored Fab long tube headers
3. Floored Fab rear reservoir box
4. ASP 180 pulley
5. Renntech 82mm TB
6. Renntech V3 Airbox
7. 2.5" Floored Fab exhaust system / stock muffler and race cats
8. 2 CM30's running in series
9. Evosport Rotors
10. PTE thermostat
11. Carbon fiber intake tubes
Keep in mind that I just had a ASP 185 pulley installed along with cams from PTE. I also removed my race cats and will be tuned again very soon and report back...good or bad. I understand that I don't necessarily have to go faster with these mods but I'm willing to give it a try.
Drag pack:
CCW 16" rear tires mounted 21 pounds / Hoosiers 255/50/16
CCW 17" front skinny's (estimated weight 18-20)
I remove all my tools for each race day including my kids car seats.... I also ice down my rear reservoir until the ice stops melting and plus some.
My best ET is 10.776 @ 135.6 with a sub 1.6 60' time.
I start my burnout in 1st gear and basically just nail until I reach 3rd. Once I feel the car slightly bogging down I nail it out of the box continuing my burnout up to the staging lights. IMO getting a good burnout is more of a result from wheel speed than length of time. I shallow stage / just barely triggering the 2ND staging light and once I get there I slowly bring my RPM's between 900-1000. Once the 2ND yellow light disappears I nail it to the floor. Either it sticks and I get a good time or I get off of it and try again. No use going through the 1320 if traction is lost from the beginning, your run is ruined save your car from the stress and heat.
That's it boys, a 10 second car in short.
As for what stage I have.... Here it is fellas a 10 second map, take it for what it is. The mods below is what I got my best time with, plain and simple. Oh yeah, this was done on a 91 tune mixed with 100 octane race gas.
1. Jeremy custom tune
2. Floored Fab long tube headers
3. Floored Fab rear reservoir box
4. ASP 180 pulley
5. Renntech 82mm TB
6. Renntech V3 Airbox
7. 2.5" Floored Fab exhaust system / stock muffler and race cats
8. 2 CM30's running in series
9. Evosport Rotors
10. PTE thermostat
11. Carbon fiber intake tubes
Keep in mind that I just had a ASP 185 pulley installed along with cams from PTE. I also removed my race cats and will be tuned again very soon and report back...good or bad. I understand that I don't necessarily have to go faster with these mods but I'm willing to give it a try.
Drag pack:
CCW 16" rear tires mounted 21 pounds / Hoosiers 255/50/16
CCW 17" front skinny's (estimated weight 18-20)
I remove all my tools for each race day including my kids car seats.... I also ice down my rear reservoir until the ice stops melting and plus some.
My best ET is 10.776 @ 135.6 with a sub 1.6 60' time.
I start my burnout in 1st gear and basically just nail until I reach 3rd. Once I feel the car slightly bogging down I nail it out of the box continuing my burnout up to the staging lights. IMO getting a good burnout is more of a result from wheel speed than length of time. I shallow stage / just barely triggering the 2ND staging light and once I get there I slowly bring my RPM's between 900-1000. Once the 2ND yellow light disappears I nail it to the floor. Either it sticks and I get a good time or I get off of it and try again. No use going through the 1320 if traction is lost from the beginning, your run is ruined save your car from the stress and heat.
That's it boys, a 10 second car in short.
Last edited by bassn_07; 05-17-2010 at 03:46 AM.
#3
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V12-Biturbo
Nice but what about that other secret mod you just added? + hi-Oct tune coming this week? also don't you mean
This list are for wheel OR tire weight ONLY, not the combo total? can't wait to see your new#'s bro!
CCW 16" rear tires mounted 21 pounds / Hoosiers 255/50/16
CCW 17" front skinny's (estimated weight 18-20)
CCW 17" front skinny's (estimated weight 18-20)
Last edited by Thericker; 05-17-2010 at 03:38 AM.
#4
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I wish this was the combined weight of tires and rims but it's not. I just know the wheel weight off the top of my head and don't feel like doing the search for it. Other could do that....
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V12-Biturbo
Can't give away all my secrets now can I..... Anyone who I feel needs to know knows and we'll see how it works out.
I wish this was the combined weight of tires and rims but it's not. I just know the wheel weight off the top of my head and don't feel like doing the search for it. Other could do that....
I wish this was the combined weight of tires and rims but it's not. I just know the wheel weight off the top of my head and don't feel like doing the search for it. Other could do that....
Last edited by Thericker; 05-17-2010 at 03:58 AM.
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2004 E55, 1997 E320 "Sold"
Is your car just for the track bassn or do you drive it daily with no problems?
Sorry to go off topic, but I want to buy a pulley and was initially thinking 180mm but am starting to think maybe a smaller one would be best because I mostly drive it on the street and hardly at the track. Will dd be affected by having the 180 versus the 172 and how much power am I leaving on the table if I go with the 172? Thanks
Sorry to go off topic, but I want to buy a pulley and was initially thinking 180mm but am starting to think maybe a smaller one would be best because I mostly drive it on the street and hardly at the track. Will dd be affected by having the 180 versus the 172 and how much power am I leaving on the table if I go with the 172? Thanks
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cornfed gtr and m3
Alan, super cool of you to share your knowledge with the board. Helping others better their cars through your tried and tested ways is above and beyond man.
#9
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On my previous VRP CL65 jayson cut a 1.5 60' footer with 9X18 Koseis light weight aluminum wheels and 265-40-18 MT's on 18-20 psi's. It is the best drag set up I have had. I cut a 1.62 60 footer because I was affraid of snapping an axle, could have probably done better. , he went 10.72 at 128
#10
Out Of Control!!
Great thread Alan Both the MT ET Streets and Hoosier drag radials are great tires. The MT's last longer but are heavier and have less flex in the sidewall which make it a better street tire but also puts more strain on the drivetrain on hard launches making it easier to break stuff. The Hoosier drag radial is lighter and a softer sidewall/material that abosrbs the impact of the launch better. Lighter tire means less rotational mass and I believe they are 7lbs a tire lighter than the MTs! I am definitely going to try these next on one of my sets of CCW's but for strictly track use I have switched to the bias ply MT ET Streets. They have alot of flex in the sidewall so I'm not as afraid of breaking stuff. It helps off the line but probably costs mph due to the soft sidewall at higher speeds. Also, I don't recommend mixing bias ply and radial tires
Last edited by blackbenzz; 05-17-2010 at 10:08 AM.
#11
Awesome write up! I'm using a near identical launch technique with awesome results. The 265-40-18 MT ET streets hook everytime for me at my current power/weight level. I can't wait to see what you and sneaky do on Friday
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2005 BLK/BLK E-Double Nickel.
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Oh ok to bay maybe another time. I plan on doing a couple of mods but nothing too major. I plan on doing headers and maybe a cai kit oh and if speeddriven comes up with a TCU upgrade for our cars as they did the V12's I will do that as well. I am also waiting on Evosport to do another rotor special. After all is done I hope it will be a low 11sec car
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Oh ok to bay maybe another time. I plan on doing a couple of mods but nothing too major. I plan on doing headers and maybe a cai kit oh and if speeddriven comes up with a TCU upgrade for our cars as they did the V12's I will do that as well. I am also waiting on Evosport to do another rotor special. After all is done I hope it will be a low 11sec car
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
Great thread Alan.... I hope this clears up some misconception and stops rumors that has been "floating around" for some time now regarding your mods
It is worth it to note, however, that a big contribution to the 10 second timeslip is actually driver skill. No mods in the world will help you get 10s without a decent launch technique. Your launch technique (along with Ahmad, Mikey, and others) is incredible. You have a great feel for your car and apparently even for other cars that you haven't driven before. You broke the record in my car by your second run
I can't wait to see how your car does with the newly added mods
It is worth it to note, however, that a big contribution to the 10 second timeslip is actually driver skill. No mods in the world will help you get 10s without a decent launch technique. Your launch technique (along with Ahmad, Mikey, and others) is incredible. You have a great feel for your car and apparently even for other cars that you haven't driven before. You broke the record in my car by your second run
I can't wait to see how your car does with the newly added mods
#22
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At our last drag event here in socal, I was cooling down the car for one last run at the very end. Came up to the line, did my burn out but only one wheels turned. (No diff at the time) Came up to the light, staged, and when the 2nd yellow came up I got off the brakes and slammed the gas pedal. Car squated and diff grenaded itself. Towed the car back to my friend's shop where I took advantage of the opportunity to upgrade to a Quaife diff.
Now I have to wait a lil while before I get my shot again. This time I'm mixing a few gallons of 100 octane to see if I could reach my goal. Should of done it before as I always ran on straight 91 *****ane...
#23
I only made a few passes last year before the tune and DR's. My IC pump was working intermittently and the track temp was around 90-95. My best run was 12.9@111 with a 2.X 60' on 19'' street tires. I put it on a mustang dyno with the bad ic pump and it made 389 whp and shut down the blower for run #2. After new, updated MB IC pump it made 413 whp on the same dyno. After the tune and K&N filters it made 500 whp. I wish I had a run stock with DR's and a healthy ic pump to compare to my tuned runs with DR's Were you running DR's for your 11.7 pass?
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