izzyz28

I was driving around yesterday and the VISIT WORKSHOP with the car outline and up arrow picture(Airmatic) warning came on while cruising down the road. I made several subsequent short trips with no warning and then it came on a couple of more times (after restarting the vehicle and driving) during a 2.5 hour trip today.

Here's the thing though. The struts are NOT losing air, even overnight. The comfort settings and raise vehicle button function normally. The car sits level at all 4 corners in all modes, and it responds instantly and evenly to all suspension modes. It raises fine, lowers fine, and I do not hear any air escaping. I probably cycled throught all of the modes(while running around the car to verify) for about 5 minutes on 3 separate occasions and everything appears to be perfectly normal. In other words, everything works fine but I still get the warning.

Has anyone experienced this or have any opinions on what it could be? All I can think of is a sensor problem, because the compressor and all associated valves seem to be working fine, including the release valves. It doesn't sit higher or lower front/back or corner to corner. I'm going to do a thorough visual inspection when I get it on a lift and maybe get lucky, but I don't know where to focus my attention. Ideas, things to try???

driftmon

Sensor problem, I've had the issue before, took it into the dealership and they replaced the sensor.

cls55

correct,it`s the sensor.

izzyz28

Thnaks for the replies so far guys. Which sensor was it that was replaced? I may have to call up my buddy with the STAR tool and see if he can pull up any diagnostic info, unless there is a sensor that commonly fails that I could check.

Pbglas

Had the problem twice. Was sensor one time. Other time one corner was down but I couldn't see it -- dealer service rep did.

.trunzx

I've had the same problem for at least a few months now. Visit Workshop message comes up but the car isn't low at all. I haven't started the car in over a month and it hasn't dropped at all in that time.

I'd also like to know which sensor it is, or a part number. Getting kinda annoyed at the warning haha

izzyz28

So which snsor is it that went out on you guys that have experienced the problem? There's no way in hell i'm taking the car into the dealer so I can get raped big time for a sensor, so one way or another I'm going to figure this one out and fix it.

driftmon

I'd have to find the invoice if the part number was listed in there. For me it was the rear airmatic sensor, I'll see if I can dig up my invoice tonight

930chas

I get this warning too from time to time, but figured that my ELM was setting it off. The car lowers and raises fine, the supsension doesn't settle. and it is also even at all 4 corners. I wonder if I need a sensor, though.

mikeevo

if the car is lowered is just to low. I have the kleemann and if i drop it to low I get this error. if i raise it slightly never a problem. I have seen alot of rear sensor comment looking thru the forum. one in rear and the others on at each front corner . if you dont see the drop it may be more likely rear but the tech and star can help out. if all runs great I wouldnt worry unless you have warranty then take it in and let them chase it down . low the drop look and the ability to raise it over the speed bumps/ low drive ways.

cls55

I think it`s called acceleration sensor,we have two of them right and left on the strut towers in the engine bay.

izzyz28

I took the car to my buddy and had him plug in his STAR tool. After checking out faults and performing a couple of actuator tests, it was determined that there is a small leak between the compressor and the air storage tank. During the actuator test the compressor was able to build a tank pressure of about 10.2 bar(~150 psi) rather quickly, but it didn't meet the 14 bar specification. Once the test was done we watched the tank pressure for a while and it did not drop.

Soooo, the pump is working, the tank is holding pressure, and all of the valves seem to work. This must be a teeny tiny leak in the plastic line or one of the fittings going to the tank. Now, I know where the compressor is, but I do not know where the tank is. I believe I heard it was somewhere in the trunk, but I've never seen it. Does anyone have any pictures of the pump and especially the air tank? We were going to look it up on the tool but my guy forgot to grab the service disc.

Yuille36

The tank is located on the right side of the trunk behind the panelling, it's silver in color. Sorry, I have no picutres.

220S

fwiw:

Electrical problem: Airmatic visit workshop displayed within instrument cluster. Models 164, 211, 219, 221 and 251. Included 4matic, amg (compressor) amg, bluetec and wagon. TSB Number: SB-32-22-78 ( NHTSA ITEM NUMBER - 10028686 ) Bulletin Date: Mar 2009, updated 9/18/09.

izzyz28

Thanks. I checked out the tank yesterday, and everything looks good there. On Tuesday when I'm at the shop installing my new fog lights I'm going to check all of the lines up by the compressor. Hopefully it's just a leaky fitting and nothing more.

This is interesting. Do you have any more information about this TSB?

izzyz28

So I had the car in the shop earlier this week and checked all of the air line fittings, including the ones on the distribution block. Everything was tight, and my visual inspection didn't turn up any obvious chafing or damage to the air lines.

For you experts out there, I have a couple of questions.

1. Are all of the air lines pressurized with tank pressure all the time, or is there a valve between the air tank and the rest of the system? If so, where is it?

2. Does anyone have a diagram of the airmatic system components, or something that describes the system operation in detail? I have EPCnet, but I cannot get my copy of WIS to work.

3. Is there a pressure release valve for the whole system? If so, where is it?

I am convinced that there is either a release valve that is unseating and bleeding pressure(but closing at ~10 bar), or the compressor is on its way out and cannot achieve the desired 14 bar pressure. When I was watching the pressure on STAR it looked like it zipped right up to 10 bar and then jumped around a little bit but wouldn't go higher.

izzyz28

Well, I was 99% convinced that the issue was my compressor going South. That was until yesterday. I started the car, and decided to get out and throw some papers in the trash can located behind the car. As I walked around the rear of the car I heard what sounded like an air leak. I must have gotten super-lucky that the compressor was running at that moment. I stuck my head under there and sure enough there was what sounded like a pretty major leak right by the differential.

This morning I jacked up the car, got underneath, and did a visual inspection of the rear air lines. Everything looked 100%, no cracks or chafing, no air leaking, and all of the air line connections were tight. As soon as I let the car I heard the leaking sound again. I jammed my arm under the car and grabbed onto the 3 lines where they go into the rear junction block by the diff. Sure enough, the top line was leaking profusely through the fitting.

I jacked the car back up, removed all 3 lines, and did a visual inspection of the sealing surfaces. I found that the leaking line had a tiny scratch you could barely feel with your fingernail that was located right where the little compression fitting slid over the line. I moved the compression fitting and threaded piece about 1/4" up all 3 lines, cut 1/4" off the end of all 3 lines, and tightened them back down. No more leaks, no more warning, and problem solved.

My only guess is that 90,000 miles worth of vibration had etched a tiny groove in the line, and I was just lucky enough to be standing in the right place when the compressor was running to hear the leak. The sound was actually pretty hard to distinguish over the exhaust and all of the other whirring sounds going on. I tried to take a picture of the piece of line that I cut off, but the scratch is so small it would take a microscope to get a good picture. I still cannot believe that something that tiny would leak as bad as it was.

Edit: By the way, I have a good used compressor on its way(I'll test it when it gets here) that should be at my house by Wednesday. If anybody needs one it's yours for $100.

adelekem

Hi I just replaced both air struts about three weeks ago because my factory front driver side blew out. The repair shop 'said' that they reset all fault codes in star but I just recently got the airmatic visit workshop warning on the display. This condition clears everytime I start the car but sooner or later comes in. I have tried listening for leaks and the car responds to raising and lowering. The car is also very level. Please help.

tscales

This is all I could find. Maybe they're finally admitting it is their problem to fix:


2009 Mercedes Benz E55 Electrical System Service Bulletin 211022

NHTSA: Action Number: 10028686 Service Bulletin Number: 211022

* Report Date:
May 06, 2009
* Component:
Electrical System
*

Summary: Mercedes: air matic visit workshop displayed within instrument cluster. Models 164, 211, 219, 221 and 251. Included 4matic, amg (compressor) amg, bluetec and wagon. Model years unknown. *pe updated 9/18/09.

izzyz28

That warning can pop up for any number of reasons, from a failing compressor to an outright leak to a faulty sensor. Can you be more specific and when the warning comes on? How long after you start and drive the car until it comes on? In my case I was lucky enough to hook it up to STAR and verify that I had leak somewhere, but it took me a long time to find the actual leak.

adelekem

Izzyz28: The warning comes on after I drive the car. Usually about 10 to 30 minutes into the ride. It is also not a had fault since it resets after I turn the car off.

UPDATE:
I just got it hooked up to STAR and the fault was:
RECOVERY TIME DURING FILLING OF THE CENTRAL RESERVOIR IS TOO LONG
POSSIBLE CAUSES & REMEDY:
- CHECK FOR POSSIBLE LEAK IN PNEUMATIC LINE BETWEEN COMPRESSOR AND CENTRAL UNIT AND CENTRAL RESERVOIR.
- PNEUMATIC TEST OF COMPONENT A9/1 (AIR COMPRESSOR UNIT)

I am thinking that the compressor might be bad. I am in Guam (military) so I am at the disadvantage of not having a MB dealership here. There is a local shop here that services MB and they had the STAR system. They checked my sensors and they were all fine. They also tested my ride height and they were all in specification. I have read about the compressors going bad do you think that its a fair bet? I dont think the lines are an issue since I havent had issues with them before the failed strut incident.

Please, your thoughts?

izzyz28

I'm going to go ahead and post the content of the PM I sent adelekem in case it will help anyone else trying to hunt down a leak.



That's the exact same message and symptoms I received from STAR, but it turned out a leak was my culprit. I'm starting to think that the compressors either work or they don't, and an air leak is the culprit. I actually mtook apart an old compressor and I can't see how it could partially fail. If it's taking that amount of time for the warning to come on(20 to 30 minutes in 85-90 degree weather), I'm willing to wager that you're looking at a leak at one of the fittings.

Easiest way to check is to listen very carefully while the compressor is running. The fitting locations are at all 4 struts, a junction block behind the driver side inner fender liner(easy to remove), the central reservoir on the right side of the trunk(where the small cargo net is located), and under the car behind the differential at the 3-way fitting where my leak was occuring. In addition, don't forget about the fitting on the compressor itself.

If you want to make sure the fittings are good, the best way is to uncrew each one, trim about 1/4" of the line off, slide the fitting and ferrule up the line 1/4" and then reinstall. This will give a new surface for the ferrule to bite into.

To get the compressor to run you either ned to use STAR, jumper the compressor on for maybe 30 seconds at a time, or constantly lower and raise the vehicle to keep it kicking on while you go around and listen/feel for leaks.

I'm also going to add that my fault was caused by a tiny SCRATCH on the line where it goes through the ferrule, which was GUSHING air. I tried to take a picture of it but it was so small of a scratch I couldn't get a good picture. Barely big enough to catch a fingernail.

I also spoke with adelekem on the phone for about 20 minutes this morning, and he is going to have the car looked at soon and will let us all know what is found. I forgot to mention to him that others have had line chafing issues on the driver side inner fenderwell, so that would be another place to check.

GibbieGibbs

I'm having the same problem where the airmatic Visit Workshop MIL comes on after a certain amount of driving. In the morning when I start the car up for the first time, it comes on in around 5 minutes. Once it's warmed up and has been driven that day, it can take 25-30 minutes to come on. It seems to occur more quickly on cold days.

I took it to the dealer yesterday, and the stored code was a 5503:
RECOVERY TIME DURING FILLING OF THE CENTRAL RESERVOIR IS TOO LONG

They ran the following tests:
1. Pnuematic pressure test with sds. Test passed.
2. Inspect all airmatic shocks for leaks. No leaks found.
3. Tested airmatic valve block with sds. Valve block tested ok.

Since nothing was found to be defective, they made no repairs. I'm wondering if this could be the mentioned sensor issue? Does anyone remember what the sensor costs to replace? Since everything tested out ok, I'm not going to rush back to the dealer but would like some thoughts on the likelihood of this being a sensor issue.

OK55

Mine was traced to a rear strut. I've ordered replacements.
Brgds

izzyz28

That's the exact same code I had, but when I ran the test it failed and was only able to achieve 10 bar instead of the 15 or so bar it's supposed to. If the sensor were intermittent it could be the issue, or there is a chance that the normal vibrations and bouncing from normal driving coul dbe causing one of the lines to leak intermittently. Chances are you'll just have to wait until it becomes worse before you can diagnose it. I lived with it for 2 months before it became bad enough that I could hear the leak.