W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

I have a 175mm pulley sitting here, now what?

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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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I have a 175mm pulley sitting here, now what?

I bought a 175mm VRP pulley from KLR CLS. I have the gates belt sitting here as well.

I must have gotten excited when purchasing and didnt read through, as I thought i was buying a "kit" - sans belt.

So, where, which, and how do I get the appropriately sized pulleys to compensate? I cant get away with stock ones right?

Ive searched but Im not sure if they differ among the different pulley sizes (168-180).

Any insight or help is appreciated, also Im not sure I want to tackle the install on my own. The headers really pissed me off when i did those.

Thanks
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 05:20 PM
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did you get the water pump pulley?
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 06:42 PM
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no
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 06:49 PM
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I believe you can get the pulleys from Evo Sport for around $379

http://www.evosport.com/product/default.aspx


I am not sure if you can get away with NOT swapping them. I have read that with a 180mm you must use the smaller pulleys, but I would see if anyone can verify with the 175mm
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AWOL
no
Contact ASP pullys, they have them on the shelf. You also need to order a new bolt that hold the Pully on, you can get this from the dealer or from an online vendor like parts.com. This is a MUST, do not reuse your old bolt. Also you will need a way to hold the pully in place to remove the bolt, there is a tool that you can get that will allow you to do this or you can remove one of the torque convertor bolts and replace it with one that is much longer, the longer bolt will hit the case as you rotate the pully locking it in place.
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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e55
I have the tool

It was listed in the ad that Id get a new crank bolt with it, but I opened the box and it wasnt in there. I contacted him and he is looking for it.

If I need to shell out another 379 on a water pump pulley, Im going to bail. I could have bought the pulley/tune kit combo from LET for cheaper.
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 07:05 PM
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I have the first generation 175 mm VRP pulley and it works fine with the OEM water pump pulley.
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jmf003
I have the first generation 175 mm VRP pulley and it works fine with the OEM water pump pulley.
this is good news
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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Don't forget to get the new bolt.
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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PM'd you about the bolt.

You shouldn't need a water puimp pulley with the vrp kit( what I was told by victor). As for install I chose to have an indy shop install mine simply because of the failure stories I have heard about faulty installs. if something fails due to install they are on the hook. was just an added measure for peace of mind.

Enjoy it man. I am starting to regret not installing it, because this 185 is just causing me too much cooling greif.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 11:02 AM
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If it turns out that you need/want the smaller water pump pulley, I have a spare.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 01:07 PM
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At what point or size does the heat become a problem? 172 175 180 185
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Roverron
At what point or size does the heat become a problem? 172 175 180 185
This seems to be a debatable question. Most of the quickest/fastest E55s are running the 180. Some say the 180 is too big and makes the car a bit less responsive, generates much more heat than accepted, etc....
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Roverron
At what point or size does the heat become a problem? 172 175 180 185
Heat is a problem even with a stock pulley. If you make a few back to back runs, you will get the SC to shut down.. so heat is always an enemy.

As you increment up in size from stock, the possibility of heat soak, or should I say: The amount of WOT you have before heat soak is felt. The bigger the pulley, the faster the heat soak. So at stock, driving normal, you should not see the issue often.. as you move up in size, expect heat soak. It is linear. Before the SC shuts off, your engine is adding fuel to cool, and retarding the timing to reduce detonation, so again, heat is an issue at in each configuration.. to a greater degree the bigger you

I think anyone who is going to increase the size of the pulley should review and modify cooling.

Last edited by Bramage; Aug 4, 2010 at 04:25 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 05:05 PM
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OK is there an ideal size for the driver that just wants some zip without blowing the bank on cooling.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Roverron
OK is there an ideal size for the driver that just wants some zip without blowing the bank on cooling.
172,headers,heatexchanger/tune will get you in the mid 11s and will be really fun on the street.

I went from a 180 to a 168
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 07:36 PM
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I would agree with the post above.. but an H/E upgrade was included there.

what happens is people put the big pulley and tune, without H/E upgrade, but as the IAT's grow (fast), the engine comensates, so you end up being slower... 168 or 172 is a good choice!






.

Last edited by Bramage; Aug 4, 2010 at 07:38 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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I thinking about down sizing from a 180. I'm still on the fence with this. I already have a H/E upgrade and I was thinking about headers but I hear shorties don't do much and long tubes take a lot of fabricating. I'm stuck in limbo.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Bramage
Heat is a problem even with a stock pulley. If you make a few back to back runs, you will get the SC to shut down.. so heat is always an enemy.
I hear what you are saying but not always true, 2 of my top 3 runs have come on my 4th consecutive run.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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although our weather is very hot, i do WOT mor than 3 times back to back i also go up to 5 times but it doesn't shut off, altough i can feel after the 2nd WOT it is slower than the first 2, heck a modded M5 was pulling slowly away from me @ the 3rd WOT with him, but the first 2 i really banged him hard.

on thing i am noticing, when i had the 178mm pulley after 3 - 4 back to back runs, engine temp used to go 1 line more = 90c, but now it doesn't with the 190mm. unless i keep the REV high for a minute.

so i think my IATs are high which leads it to pull timing = less burning --> engine temp doesn't rise.

i am really considering going back to 178 + LT + CAMS, so that i don't lose any HP but reduce IATs a bit.

i know some guys are runing 200mm with cams, ported head, LT,HE, etc but their cars are not that fast and i do beat them with my car. which clearly their IATs are high.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Roverron
I thinking about down sizing from a 180. I'm still on the fence with this. I already have a H/E upgrade and I was thinking about headers but I hear shorties don't do much and long tubes take a lot of fabricating. I'm stuck in limbo.

My shorties made 42whp, so I would definately say they are worth it. I have HE and pump and I have not run into SC shut off, but I am close with IAT at 190 by the end of the run. My car pulled much harder top end with just the headers and stock boost once the car is hot. However on a cool night a few days ago the car pulled like crazy once or twice on the highway, but once the IAT's got up the fun was over! My Meth kit will be delivered soon, so hopefully that returns the top end to normal.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 11:19 PM
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I figured with the 175 I could get away with the stock HE, and cm30 - especially since the temps will be dropping soon here in NY.

Next season if I stick with the pulley, I'll probably snag an aftermarket HE.

Ive gotten a couple PM's warning me about the VRP pulley but Im going to try it out - its not like I blast around WOT all day, so I expect it to last a decent while.

Just waiting for the bolt to come in on Friday and I might tackle the install this weekend, then if it goes well, send my ECU to LET for a retune since the remote tuner seems to be backed up.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 12:31 AM
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I got the Same PM's from people when I bought it myself, but I have learned that people on this board love to bash things based on hearsay and not their own direct experience. The V4 kit is made by BHJ Dynamics( who is one of the largest OEM replacement dampner manufactures) and not some VRP in house crap made in Victors basement like people like to think. The Dampner is an SFI spec billet steel peice and likely a better Balancer then OEM MB. Just use some blue loctite on the SC pulley bolts and torque to 35 lb/ft and it'll be fine. I am regretting not installing it now since I am just not enjoying this 185 much now in the August heat.
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 05:46 AM
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@ KLR CLS did you do the primary delete with the shorties? And if you did what was the cost of install? The price I was quoted for Kleenans from Fab Speed was almost 4K for that much I might as well get L/T's. The 42whp was that with the mid pipe work?
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Roverron
@ KLR CLS did you do the primary delete with the shorties? And if you did what was the cost of install? The price I was quoted for Kleenans from Fab Speed was almost 4K for that much I might as well get L/T's. The 42whp was that with the mid pipe work?
$4k with install is nuts!!! I ran VRP logs and they made nice power. The car ran an 11.8 with those and a 178 pulley, and at the time, no tune.
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