squidj

The liquid gasket/sealer is for the covers on top of the valve covers, the gaskets are for the valve covers.

I purchased the valve cover gaskets and the liquid gasket to do the job and after I started to take everything apart I realized that the leak was actually from the top cover on the passenger side only. So after fixing it, I have not had any more problems. I also retorqued the bolts on the valve covers for good measure and a couple were a little loose. Good luck.

bobgodd

I went out and bought a brand new torque wrench but damn, 8 Nm just doesn't feel all that tight to me!

dstoud

Great write up, I've been trying to find a gasket for that small cover for awhile. Glad to know it just uses sealant before I decide to remove it.

Celicasaur

Guys I have to ask...how did you manage to get the right side valve cover off without fouling on that fuel line? Almost looks like I'd need to remove the intake chambers and then unbolt the fuel rail in order to lift the fuel line up and get the required clearance...?

Lelix

Loosen the supply line, catch all the fuel with a rag, swing the supply hose out of the way, remove the valve cover. Careful with the purge hose that goes into the superchager, its held in place with one of the valve cover bolts.

Celicasaur

Oh...simple as that, eh? I saw that as the most obvious/simple way, but I always seem to get a bit scared when it comes to fuel :$

Thanks man, I'll just do that and get the job done once and right

berti_00

is it necessary to apply sealant on the grove were the gasket goes and than place the rubber gasket and than do a light layer of rtv sealant again on top of the rubber gasket and slap it on the head....

scroll down about half way and you will see the process am talking about... looks like a solid way of going about

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...er-gasket.html

Lelix

It's not necessary at all. Factory instructions call for a dry install. Only PCV covers require LIBERAL sealant (2.0mm bead) the little hold down bolts must be replaced as well.

jt2ma71

No, i dont recommend that.

The only place i ever put RTV is on cars that have the one piece cam seal/valve cover gasket. In the corners where the transition from flat to the half moon part, for that matter any part where it changes "height" so to speak.

Ive never had one leak and ive replaced a lot of valve cover gaskets.

berti_00

cool thanks for clearing that up guys... i appreciate it

stevebez

This cam cover large gasket seems to be of a fairly spongy and thick rubber and seems has a fair amount of give on compression - dunno just cleaned mine up and reinstalled did not see the need to replace.

The covers on cam covers are a crap design using the sealant oinstead of a formed gasket - almost all these motors leak here ... only thing make sure of is you use a gasket maker that is resistant to high temps and oil. PITA job esp the removal and cleaning up of the grooves etc ... but as they say prep is everything in this type of fix.

Dollos

Hi guys, Newb Question alert:
the bolts on the cover that requires only SEALANT has to be torqued to what spec ?
thanks
I love this forum.....

Richardmozis

While Mercedes does not give torque specs for these covers, I torqued mine to 4Nm which is roughly 35in-lbs. - You should also replace these bolts, the old ones tend to break.

Dollos

Thanks a Million Dude !!!!

Bill99

Where can I buy the small round rubber grommets that are inside the valve covers? I have the gaskets, hoses and sealant for the job but not these grommets that have badly deteriorated.

supreame

That's sealant, you form them with a bead of loctite 5970 before you replace the cover.

Bill99

Success !! It is definitely not sealant. I found them at the local NAPA auto parts store when I went there for some brake cleaner.

Thanks for the help as always. I continue to learn about all my cars.

DH1951

PLEASE NOTE: The RTV shown is described as rigid, HIGH TORQUE applications. The breather cover screws (now new stainless steel) are torqued down to just 4Nm.

The correct sealant remains flexible. Look at:

Mercedes Chemical Gasket Maker - Genuine Mercedes 003989982010

Commonly used to reseal valve covers and oil pans. Permanently Elastic, 50ml tube Loctite 5970

DH1951

It's sealant!



I still don't understand why sealant is applied to both surfaces. One side is a channel that the other side fits neatly into.

JohnLane

Just make sure the sealing surfaces are surgically clean and dry. It takes a lot less of the sealer then most guys apply. I'm not fond of finding excess sealer on the oil pump pickup or in the oil filter.

DH1951

Totally agree John. I have seen a number of posts recommending acetone yet there is plenty of info out there stating this leaves a deposit that is hard to remove.Any cleaner must be residue free.
As to the amount of RTV. MB recommends a 2mm bead. The breather covers have channels that measure 3mm at the widest part. I intend to use a 2mm bead in the covers and the recommended bolt/screw holes as the per my pictures above.
After all, when the breather covers are placed on the valve covers, the valve cover raised portion practically fills the grooved part in the breather covers. It's easy to see how all that excess can end up in the wrong places!
My final point is about torque specs. MB says to torque the breather cover screws x5 to 4Nm. The valve covers with new gaskets are to be torqued to 8Nm. I'm wondering what the effect of having fasteners at 2 different torque settings has on the breather covers. Wouldn't it make more sense to torque to an equal spec?

Much has been written about leaking valve covers or more commonly valve breather covers so I'm wondering if this is a basic design fault right out of the box?

JohnLane

Torque applied (or lack thereof) is much less a factor in things not leaking then poor surface preparation and being careful about placing the cam covers/crankcase ventilation covers. My pick for cleaning things up is the not environmentally flavor of brakeclean that leaves zero residue + a small wire toothbrushy.