320 dreamer

do you have a pic of the snout after the bore but before the new plate is welded on? like to see how much room is left after removing the 3 mm each side

crazyfox

So sl55 - 2005 will stuck with 74?

Chris Buffalo

Hey Shardul - how about you and Exotic getting together and making one of these kits? Your pulley rocks, why not having this all ready to bolt on in a box, and charge a core for the s/c snout?

NODO-GT

Hello,

I'm doing same thing now, but we have little problem.

How can i take out plastic that is in this holes:



what is their function?
when we take them out are they easily fitted back? what if we just close this holes permanently?

thanks

groove66

those are vacuum ports. you will need the lower smaller one.

SavMan

What does the lower one connect to mine are just blanked off.

berti_00

Bumppp... me and my boy manucy are about to do the same exact thing here, just got a quick question... What are the holes sizes he made the ones he tapered in for the screws?? are they the same as OEM screws?
and does it matter if the Plate is Half inch or can it be thiner?? or that doesnt matter

CLKCLK

You don't want to use too thick plate since it will take up all the space for the y pipe. I would think thinner is better but I may wrong.

berti_00

that was exactly my thought too but seems like he used a 1/2 inch

shardul

iTrader: (1)

keep in mind with a thick flange the y pipe will be a tight fit and also the air boxes will be push back, so the clips on the bottom of the airbox won't mate to the rubber mounting locations on the valve covers.

berti_00

okay shardul that makes sense, what do you think is a good size to go with. your the master here so its what you say

Manuyc

Shardul I need a cable for the 82mm tb you one

Manuyc

Yeah how thick does it have to be I want to berti00 and to finish quick so we can go to a Dyno day.
AIGHT

shardul

iTrader: (1)

thinnest possible.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

i dont have a cable, mercedes sells and extension harness. it is pretty pricey from what I understand.

berti_00

he ended up sending his cable with his OEM T/B becaseu he couldnt get it off... maybe Pearlpower can send his own cable since he has no need for two cables

berti_00

how about a quoter inch???

Manuyc

Fudge I need a cable

shardul

iTrader: (1)

you should be fine

123Pokey321

Regarding the minimum thickness issue, from a fastener/thread engagement stance, you want to have sufficient thread engagement to prevent stripping the hole under maximum loading conditions. In my line of work, we require sufficient thread engagement to develop the full tensile strength of the fastener, ie you want to fastener to break before the threads strip out of the hole because it's much easier to replace a bolt/screw rather than weld repair and rethread the hole. That being said, for fasteners and base material of similar strength (steel bolt into steel plate), if you make the length of engagement equal to the diameter of the fastener, you are pretty much guaranteed to prevent stripping prior to breaking the fastener. In this case, however, the aluminum is quite a bit weaker than the steel fastener so an additional amount of thread engagement should be used to prevent stripping, ie use 3/8" thick Al material if you are using a 1/4" steel fastener.

So now that we have an idea of how much thread engagement we ideally need, we can probably forget it in this instance because I doubt that there is any chance that we will need to develop the full strength of the fasteners for mounting the throttle body. A good general rule of thumb to prevent stripping during installation/torquing is at least 5 full threads, again for similar materials. For the Al/steel issue, increase this to about 7 threads and you should be good to go.

For an M8 bolt, pitch = 1.25mm => 8.75mm (approx 5/16") thickness
For an M6 bolt, pitch = 1 mm => 7mm (approx 1/4") thickness
(Remember, M6/8 is the threaded diameter, not the size of the socket/allen wrench).

Hope this helps.

pearlpower

Would be happy to if someone can share how they removed theirs without destroying the cable and connector which I have done in the past. And NO, a heat gun is not the solution, nor a pik. Also EC has the cables in stock generally.

JoeNobody

Any plans for someone to offer this snout modification as a service? I'd gladly give money to have mine modded like this.

berti_00

it was actually very simple for me, mine just pluged off the glue was there but i kind of pryed it off gently i didnt even use a heat gun... so with a heat gun am sure it will be much eaier...

pearlpower

Must have had the bottom of the glue gun on the one I did as I did not budge and I do not like crap looking scraped up parts on my car, not saying yours ended up that way.

******For those looking to buy a 82mm TB, DO YOUR RESEARCH! NO CABLE, you needs extra parts to make it work, is not plug and play! Its been posted numerous times on this forum********

I will check this weekend when I head over to the fellas house where the TB is to see if we can pull 'both' cables. Or see if I can source one for you. He might want to return this one back as a whole unit as he is waiting on a tune locally. Will let him know and get back.

berti_00

^^you da man