Rust proofing the e55?
10-04-2010, 02:02 PM
#1
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Rust proofing the e55?
I'm a recently purchased an e55 that i plan to drive in the winter here in Toronto, I was wondering if people who drive these cars all year around get them rust proofed?
10-04-2010, 05:02 PM
#2
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S63 AMG, E55 AMG,C Class AMG CLK55 AMG, Jeep Rubicon
Do it.
If you plan on keeping any car for a long time, I would do it.
I am not sure what you were planning, but the easiest way is a electronic type rust inhibitor that plugs right to your battery.
Whether your dealing with salt or humidity, metals will rust period.
You attach a lead to your frame and any misc. and your good to go.
Couple hundred bucks and half hour of time.
I am not sure what you were planning, but the easiest way is a electronic type rust inhibitor that plugs right to your battery.
Whether your dealing with salt or humidity, metals will rust period.
You attach a lead to your frame and any misc. and your good to go.
Couple hundred bucks and half hour of time.
10-04-2010, 08:28 PM
#3
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
If you plan on keeping any car for a long time, I would do it.
I am not sure what you were planning, but the easiest way is a electronic type rust inhibitor that plugs right to your battery.
Whether your dealing with salt or humidity, metals will rust period.
You attach a lead to your frame and any misc. and your good to go.
Couple hundred bucks and half hour of time.
I am not sure what you were planning, but the easiest way is a electronic type rust inhibitor that plugs right to your battery.
Whether your dealing with salt or humidity, metals will rust period.
You attach a lead to your frame and any misc. and your good to go.
Couple hundred bucks and half hour of time.
Galvanic protection works. A sacrificial anode bonded to a less reactive material, provides the electrons instead of the base material, and thus will "rust" first. The electrical polarity will be such that the sacrificial anode is more positive with respect to the base material. Traditional sacrificial anodes work only if immersed in a conductive liquid.
This product works similarly, in that the "pads" are more positive w.r.t the car body. Since no dielectric is perfect, there can be some electron migration to the base material if it started to rust. Instead of the anode being sacrificed, the electrons are provided by the power supply (which also completes the circuit)
There is some real science behind this, but I would say this product does not work.
In a sacrificial anode situation, the anode provides the electrons by becoming an ion and bonding with oxygen to "rust" first. In this power supply situation, where is the extra electron coming from? As far as I can see, the number of electrons in the system remains the same, no matter if there is a potential difference, or if there is a static charge, or if the dielectric is not perfect.
My "follow-the-money" test also thinks that it does not work, as no vehicle manufacturer offers this. Imagine "Buy a [insert] your favourite brand here [/insert] and get 10 years no rust guarantee through active protection!".
10-04-2010, 09:43 PM
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S63 AMG, E55 AMG,C Class AMG CLK55 AMG, Jeep Rubicon
Dont Do It.
Not my words, but worth noting
Galvanic protection works. A sacrificial anode bonded to a less reactive material, provides the electrons instead of the base material, and thus will "rust" first. The electrical polarity will be such that the sacrificial anode is more positive with respect to the base material. Traditional sacrificial anodes work only if immersed in a conductive liquid.
This product works similarly, in that the "pads" are more positive w.r.t the car body. Since no dielectric is perfect, there can be some electron migration to the base material if it started to rust. Instead of the anode being sacrificed, the electrons are provided by the power supply (which also completes the circuit)
There is some real science behind this, but I would say this product does not work.
In a sacrificial anode situation, the anode provides the electrons by becoming an ion and bonding with oxygen to "rust" first. In this power supply situation, where is the extra electron coming from? As far as I can see, the number of electrons in the system remains the same, no matter if there is a potential difference, or if there is a static charge, or if the dielectric is not perfect.
My "follow-the-money" test also thinks that it does not work, as no vehicle manufacturer offers this. Imagine "Buy a [insert] your favourite brand here [/insert] and get 10 years no rust guarantee through active protection!".
Galvanic protection works. A sacrificial anode bonded to a less reactive material, provides the electrons instead of the base material, and thus will "rust" first. The electrical polarity will be such that the sacrificial anode is more positive with respect to the base material. Traditional sacrificial anodes work only if immersed in a conductive liquid.
This product works similarly, in that the "pads" are more positive w.r.t the car body. Since no dielectric is perfect, there can be some electron migration to the base material if it started to rust. Instead of the anode being sacrificed, the electrons are provided by the power supply (which also completes the circuit)
There is some real science behind this, but I would say this product does not work.
In a sacrificial anode situation, the anode provides the electrons by becoming an ion and bonding with oxygen to "rust" first. In this power supply situation, where is the extra electron coming from? As far as I can see, the number of electrons in the system remains the same, no matter if there is a potential difference, or if there is a static charge, or if the dielectric is not perfect.
My "follow-the-money" test also thinks that it does not work, as no vehicle manufacturer offers this. Imagine "Buy a [insert] your favourite brand here [/insert] and get 10 years no rust guarantee through active protection!".
Well then If that is correct above, please disregard my comment...
Really though,Thats funny . I was just getting ready to buy one of these as I just purchased my 55. Wont waste the money now.
10-05-2010, 08:44 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
LOL, don't worry she'll be fine, I'm going to have the car done with KROWN rust protection...will be fine
http://www.krown.com/#default
its really a proven product....
10-05-2010, 05:22 PM
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
LOL, don't worry she'll be fine, I'm going to have the car done with KROWN rust protection...will be fine
http://www.krown.com/#default
its really a proven product....
http://www.krown.com/#default
its really a proven product....
