Rust proofing the e55?
I am not sure what you were planning, but the easiest way is a electronic type rust inhibitor that plugs right to your battery.
Whether your dealing with salt or humidity, metals will rust period.
You attach a lead to your frame and any misc. and your good to go.
Couple hundred bucks and half hour of time.

I am not sure what you were planning, but the easiest way is a electronic type rust inhibitor that plugs right to your battery.
Whether your dealing with salt or humidity, metals will rust period.
You attach a lead to your frame and any misc. and your good to go.
Couple hundred bucks and half hour of time.
Galvanic protection works. A sacrificial anode bonded to a less reactive material, provides the electrons instead of the base material, and thus will "rust" first. The electrical polarity will be such that the sacrificial anode is more positive with respect to the base material. Traditional sacrificial anodes work only if immersed in a conductive liquid.
This product works similarly, in that the "pads" are more positive w.r.t the car body. Since no dielectric is perfect, there can be some electron migration to the base material if it started to rust. Instead of the anode being sacrificed, the electrons are provided by the power supply (which also completes the circuit)
There is some real science behind this, but I would say this product does not work.
In a sacrificial anode situation, the anode provides the electrons by becoming an ion and bonding with oxygen to "rust" first. In this power supply situation, where is the extra electron coming from? As far as I can see, the number of electrons in the system remains the same, no matter if there is a potential difference, or if there is a static charge, or if the dielectric is not perfect.
My "follow-the-money" test also thinks that it does not work, as no vehicle manufacturer offers this. Imagine "Buy a [insert] your favourite brand here [/insert] and get 10 years no rust guarantee through active protection!".
Galvanic protection works. A sacrificial anode bonded to a less reactive material, provides the electrons instead of the base material, and thus will "rust" first. The electrical polarity will be such that the sacrificial anode is more positive with respect to the base material. Traditional sacrificial anodes work only if immersed in a conductive liquid.
This product works similarly, in that the "pads" are more positive w.r.t the car body. Since no dielectric is perfect, there can be some electron migration to the base material if it started to rust. Instead of the anode being sacrificed, the electrons are provided by the power supply (which also completes the circuit)
There is some real science behind this, but I would say this product does not work.
In a sacrificial anode situation, the anode provides the electrons by becoming an ion and bonding with oxygen to "rust" first. In this power supply situation, where is the extra electron coming from? As far as I can see, the number of electrons in the system remains the same, no matter if there is a potential difference, or if there is a static charge, or if the dielectric is not perfect.
My "follow-the-money" test also thinks that it does not work, as no vehicle manufacturer offers this. Imagine "Buy a [insert] your favourite brand here [/insert] and get 10 years no rust guarantee through active protection!".
Well then If that is correct above, please disregard my comment...

Really though,Thats funny . I was just getting ready to buy one of these as I just purchased my 55. Wont waste the money now.
LOL, don't worry she'll be fine, I'm going to have the car done with KROWN rust protection...will be fine
http://www.krown.com/#default
its really a proven product....

http://www.krown.com/#default
its really a proven product....



