- Mercedes Benz E Class AMG: How to Replace Fuel Pump
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Fuel leak issues - some investigation & DIY
This car has a fuel pressure sensor somewhere. Does anyone know where it is located??
G
Did you find out where the fuel pressure sensor is at? Also how long did it take for you to do this job?
Some points of note:
- You will need large filter pliers or MB Service tool to remove the large plastic nuts.
- Purchase two new plastic nuts as they will probably get boogered-up and are cheap.
- Get two new green seals. (the old ones are black, so must be updated).
- There are multiple styles of connectors, depending upon model year, going into the pumps. One uses a white fitting with a small C-clip to hold it, the other one is black and uses an integrated lock that you must push-in to release the fitting.
- As stated, the fuel outlet on the filter assembly is VERY brittle. If you are replacing, no big deal. If you are not, replace it anyway. The MB-stated service interval is WAY too long.
Take it apart and see how nasty it is. - Double check the lines running over to the pump side. It is easy to accidentally crimp them, thus cutting your fuel source.
- Double-check the fuel-pickup strainers on your fuel-pump side. One of my cars had it gummed-up with something. Take out and use carb cleaner, etc. or consider another cash contribution to the stealership for a replacement.
- Consider replacing short fuel hose coming out of filter. It's cheap and easy to get to. Do not re-use clamps and be sure to use fuel-hose clamps, not worm clamps.
Hope this helps. Good peace-of-mind project. If you're not getting proper fuel to the engine (the margin of error decreases when you are asking for more power out of it than stock) all other mods are in vane.
Happy cursing.
Is it possible for the units to be flexed back and forth depending on the acceleration and deceleration of the car caused by the gas movement from back to front when running in the 1/4 to 3/4 range (normal)?
Some points of note:
- You will need large filter pliers or MB Service tool to remove the large plastic nuts.
- Purchase two new plastic nuts as they will probably get boogered-up and are cheap.
- Get two new green seals. (the old ones are black, so must be updated).
- There are multiple styles of connectors, depending upon model year, going into the pumps. One uses a white fitting with a small C-clip to hold it, the other one is black and uses an integrated lock that you must push-in to release the fitting.
- As stated, the fuel outlet on the filter assembly is VERY brittle. If you are replacing, no big deal. If you are not, replace it anyway. The MB-stated service interval is WAY too long.
Take it apart and see how nasty it is. - Double check the lines running over to the pump side. It is easy to accidentally crimp them, thus cutting your fuel source.
- Double-check the fuel-pickup strainers on your fuel-pump side. One of my cars had it gummed-up with something. Take out and use carb cleaner, etc. or consider another cash contribution to the stealership for a replacement.
- Consider replacing short fuel hose coming out of filter. It's cheap and easy to get to. Do not re-use clamps and be sure to use fuel-hose clamps, not worm clamps.
Hope this helps. Good peace-of-mind project. If you're not getting proper fuel to the engine (the margin of error decreases when you are asking for more power out of it than stock) all other mods are in vane.
Happy cursing.
Will do this ASAP!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Last edited by spsinha; Nov 12, 2014 at 11:10 AM.
Mine has white fitting's as shown in the picture above. One of the small white plastic c-clips was missing. Anyone know the part number? Can't seem to locate it on EPC.




1. the original clamp that goes on the fuel line
2. the small white c-clip that attaches the hose from fuel sender to the pump on the passenger side
VDO was on the external parts.
There are some slight differences between my car and the pictures in this thread. The pumps look different with different electrical connectors and the fuel line connections to the top of the pumps is also different. The rest loose pretty much the same.
The top part of the filter assembly in the picture above is not the pump cap. That is a fuel pressure sensor assembly.
Just FYI- I would double check those integrity of those worm clamps on that external fuel line. Unless those are specific for fuel injection hose you will likely have a leak form the hose from uneven clamp pressure. The OEM style clamps are the way to go as they are even pressure with constant spring tension.


G
Have them give you the MBZ part numbers for the "new" parts and I think you'll find they match the numbers that have been posted on these threads for the last couple of years..... A total of 4 part number changes have occurred that I'm aware of.
-G




https://mbworld.org/forums/diesel-fo...ml#post6803992.
I did this on my fuel pump side before but only on the outside and it is still holding up. I think having the coating on the inside also will help even more. Hope this helps someone out. $15 fix is not bad for this issue. I am sure this can be applied to BMWs also. The pumps/senders are very similar in design.
Being that my car is a w212 I may have to cover these expensive out of pocket ? Smh I don't see why they would fix all E CLASSES considering that they all have the same problem this is very unfortunate for me. I purchased it less than 4 months ago and the gas is pouring out everywhere this is very unsafe to drive I have children that don't ride in the car due to the Strong gas smell.









