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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Door Handle Replacement DIY
01-14-2013, 04:56 PM
#102
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01-16-2013, 07:55 AM
#103
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2005 E55 AMG
Can someone confirm:
Handle, outside w/keyless, silver Left
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$212.00 $0.00 $159.00
Is what is needed for my 744-Briliant Silver drivers door? Thanks, I can't wait to fix this.
Handle, outside w/keyless, silver Left
MSRP Core ? Online Price
$212.00 $0.00 $159.00
Is what is needed for my 744-Briliant Silver drivers door? Thanks, I can't wait to fix this.
01-16-2013, 09:28 AM
#104
Super Member
That's about how much mine was... just make sure you're getting the right side (driver vs. passenger).
08-15-2013, 12:41 PM
#109
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2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
My passenger side stopped unlocking keylessly. If I open any other door, it then unlocks the passenger front and I can open it. Would this be the lock module of the handle switch? Anyone know? I purchased the entire handle assembly from an 04' E55 (matching color and door), but if I can get away with just replacing the lock module, that would be cool since I wouldn't have to pull the door panel off. In any case, do they separate easily? That handle looks like one big piece, but I know it HAS to come apart to install the whole thing. I'm hoping I can just remove the lock portion.
And how can the bolt be T15 OR T20? I need to buy a lonbger one so I'd like to know which one it actually is.
And how can the bolt be T15 OR T20? I need to buy a lonbger one so I'd like to know which one it actually is.
08-15-2013, 01:11 PM
#110
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Usually, when a handle fails the lock button will work, but the unlock won't, or vice versa.... it would be unlikely that both buttons fail simultaneously. Do a quick test to see if either button on that door is working. If so, the new handle will fix it.....
BTW -> the key portion of the lock is irrelevant. That doesn't come out when you replace the handle anyway.
The keyless handles are one of the worst parts on this car. I've replaced 3 already, and am about to do a 4th one..... in a little over 2 years of ownership.
-G
BTW -> the key portion of the lock is irrelevant. That doesn't come out when you replace the handle anyway.
The keyless handles are one of the worst parts on this car. I've replaced 3 already, and am about to do a 4th one..... in a little over 2 years of ownership.
-G
08-15-2013, 02:06 PM
#111
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2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
It will lock, but not unlock. I just call the separate piece with the actual button the "key portion". The DIY shows just replacing that part from what I can see. I have an entire door handle assembly, which I assume means that need to pull the inner door panel as well. No biggie, as long as it fixes the issue 
08-15-2013, 02:10 PM
#112
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Go back and re-read the original post. The door panel doesn't even need to come off.
This is quite literally 1 screw and one electrical connector......10 minutes tops if you are nervous and working slowly.
-G
This is quite literally 1 screw and one electrical connector......10 minutes tops if you are nervous and working slowly.
-G
08-15-2013, 02:21 PM
#113
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2005 E55, 2011 Honda Push Mower (21 inch deck bishes)
That is why I'm slightly confused by the DIY. It seems I'll HAVE to take the bottom of this assembly off.
08-15-2013, 02:24 PM
#114
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Bottom pic.... remove that torx screw on the far left side.
The back portion will come apart from the front handle that you need.
The handle has a kind of "hook" that allows it to stay in position near it's hingepoint, so once you take out the screw you will need to shift the handle maybe 1/4" sideways before it will release from that large back bracket.
-G
The back portion will come apart from the front handle that you need.
The handle has a kind of "hook" that allows it to stay in position near it's hingepoint, so once you take out the screw you will need to shift the handle maybe 1/4" sideways before it will release from that large back bracket.
-G
08-17-2013, 03:02 PM
#116
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'14 C63 507, '11 C300, '96 Cobra, '91 Mr2
Circling back to this...finally got the rear driver's side handle changed out. Used a T20 in the back as it required a LOT more torque to break loose the screw (which by the way, CAN fall off into the door panel if you aren't careful). The diameter on the rear screw is large and it had blue loctite on it.
Connector for the electrical assembly can pivot back, just fyi.
Connector for the electrical assembly can pivot back, just fyi.
08-17-2013, 03:25 PM
#117
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Circling back to this...finally got the rear driver's side handle changed out. Used a T20 in the back as it required a LOT more torque to break loose the screw (which by the way, CAN fall off into the door panel if you aren't careful). The diameter on the rear screw is large and it had blue loctite on it.
Connector for the electrical assembly can pivot back, just fyi.
Connector for the electrical assembly can pivot back, just fyi.
02-18-2014, 05:59 PM
#119
Super Member
I recently replaced the driver side door handle because the keyless go stopped working. After replacing it my driver side door wont lock, but it will unlock after i push it down. I tried with key fob, the unlock button inside the car and can't figure it out. Anybody have any idea where I could have messed because it just started right after I put the door handle back in. I also swapped the interior chrome door handle at the same time. Any help will be appreciated
02-19-2014, 11:22 PM
#120
Rear door handle removal?
I have a bad driver's side rear door handle that isn't working to lock/unlock on my E55 with Keyless Go.
To remove the rear door handle, how is this done? Unlike the front door, which seems pretty easy to do due to ease of T20 Torx access, the rear door handle is placed more anterior towards the front of the car and the access to the T20 Torx that holds it is not very apparent. Does that black cap for the rear latch (first pic) need to be removed to allow for access?
Here's some pics of the rear door to help if someone can point me in the right direction. Any help would be appreciated.
To remove the rear door handle, how is this done? Unlike the front door, which seems pretty easy to do due to ease of T20 Torx access, the rear door handle is placed more anterior towards the front of the car and the access to the T20 Torx that holds it is not very apparent. Does that black cap for the rear latch (first pic) need to be removed to allow for access?
Here's some pics of the rear door to help if someone can point me in the right direction. Any help would be appreciated.
It is not necessary to take the door cards off to replace the rear handle Remove the rubber seal at the level of the door handle and you will see a hole through which a T20 torx driver can be inserted and a captive screw loosened. The removal is similar to that of the front door handle described earlier in this thread. Mercedes specifies using a 250mm (~9.75 inches) which is difficult to come by.
Furthermore both front and rear doors use the same antenna that is not part of the door handle itself. The antenna is located elsewhere in the chassis.
If you have a STAR system with Xentry/DAS you can also check the actual values (pushed or not pushed) of the "push" button and "pull" button on each handle to confirm it is the issue. If you've got a "pull" button issue, I would also go in to the "actuations" menu and activate the door release motor for that affected door. Finally, the diagnostic procedure also recommends you check the continuity within the door frame (remove the interior of the door panel and probe the wiring connectors with a meter) - but I suspect the vast majority of the time the issue is a bad door handle.
Part #s for those living in North America can EASILY be obtained by getting yourself a free subscription (only users from NA are eligible) to the official Mercedes Parts Catalog. (Google Mercedes EPC for info). You can then plug in your VIN #, and the system will tell you the correct part # accounting for body color, model-line and year. Print this information out and the parts counter guy will love you.
Furthermore both front and rear doors use the same antenna that is not part of the door handle itself. The antenna is located elsewhere in the chassis.
If you have a STAR system with Xentry/DAS you can also check the actual values (pushed or not pushed) of the "push" button and "pull" button on each handle to confirm it is the issue. If you've got a "pull" button issue, I would also go in to the "actuations" menu and activate the door release motor for that affected door. Finally, the diagnostic procedure also recommends you check the continuity within the door frame (remove the interior of the door panel and probe the wiring connectors with a meter) - but I suspect the vast majority of the time the issue is a bad door handle.
Part #s for those living in North America can EASILY be obtained by getting yourself a free subscription (only users from NA are eligible) to the official Mercedes Parts Catalog. (Google Mercedes EPC for info). You can then plug in your VIN #, and the system will tell you the correct part # accounting for body color, model-line and year. Print this information out and the parts counter guy will love you.
02-19-2014, 11:53 PM
#121
Factory rear door handle instructions
Did some searching on the general W211 section and I found this PDF on the outer rear door handle removal and install. It seems easy enough once you remove the door weatherstrip to expose the access hole.
Regardless, any pointers from those who have worked on the rear door handle removal? Will tackle this weekend.
Regardless, any pointers from those who have worked on the rear door handle removal? Will tackle this weekend.
03-09-2014, 09:02 PM
#122
Super Member
Ok so I just replaced my door handle.. Everything works as intended. One issue.. My handle will not seat properly... I've take it out and made sure it was in correctly... It looks ok to me...am I missing something?
It just feel really loose now...
It just feel really loose now...
03-09-2014, 09:21 PM
#123
Super Member
Got it, it wasn't in correctly. There is a lever inside that the bottom part of the "L" has to go on for it to fit and operate properly.. There are 2-3 of these levers it seems like that the "L" has to seat into. It's good now.
03-09-2014, 11:19 PM
#124
W211 REAR DOOR HANDLE REMOVAL NOTES
W211 REAR DOOR HANDLEREMOVAL NOTES
Tools needed: T20 Torx, 8” (200mm) shaft length is fine (bought on eBay for $10 shipped);needle nose pliers (to help swing/rotate forward the electrical connector)
To serve as a guide to help others down the road, here are my notes to the factory instructions that I posted above:
Rear Door Handle Removal Notes
Step. 1. Nothing to add.
Step 2. When starting to unscrew the T20 screw, it will take some initial torque to get it loose as there is Loctite on it. Unscrew it about 2 full turns—don’t loosen more than necessary. Once you are free of the Loctite, the screw loosens quite a bit and the door handle cover will be able to wiggle. Stop there before the screw can come out of the copper sleeve and fallout. See attached pic. You don’t need to keep the T20 screwdriver in place, but I wouldn’t remove it until you can wiggle the door handle cover a decent amount.
Step. 3. To remove the door handle cover, while pulling the door handle outwards, slide the door handle cover towards the back of the car to allow the L-hooks to clear the door frame (see pic; near the yellow marked pieces). This step was trickier than necessary.
Step 4. Once your remove the door handle cover, just slide the whole door handle back towards the rear of the car. It will release the L-catches so you slide out the door handle. Take off the front rubber gasket (it will allow for easier access to the wiring harness).
Step. 5. Pull the door handle out slowly and it will expose the electrical harness. The harness is permanently attached to the door frame via a rotating link. Instead of pointing towards the front of the car, rotate the whole harness 90 degrees so that it points directly at you (perpendicular to the side of the car) for easier harness access. Use a small flathead or needlenose pliers to help facilitate this. Just push the side tab on the harness and it will allow the door handle electrical connector to easily slide out.
Rear Door Handle Installation Notes
Reverse the factory instructions. Note: If you removed the front gasket, transfer it to the new door handle so you have it when you replace the harness.
By far the only issue I had with the installation was trying to get the door handle cover back on. First, seat the door handle back in the door frame—basically get it in the door holes,make sure it’s flush/flat, then slide the whole handle forward to lock it in place. Put your T20 screwdriver back in the door frame and so it barely shows on the rear plastic guide of the exposed rear door handle hole. Now pull the door handle outwards (like you are opening your car door), and then get the L-hooks on the door handle cover (marked in yellow in the pic) to seat the door frame guides. As you let the door handle close, the door handle cover will be flush in front—at this time, you’ll need to use your T20 screwdriver to push the screw connected piece of plastic catch forward so the plastic edge can clear the mount on the door frame. You will notice a 3-4 mm gap near the back of the door handle cover, push with your T20 screwdriver and then tighten up the screw, it will close the gap and you’ll be done.
NOTE ON FRONT/REAR DOOR HANDLE INTERCHANGABILITY
Do note that the front and rear door handles have different catches. The rear door handle has an extra "L" catch towards the rear, while the front door does not and is shorter (just as the CLS owner mentioned; also do a search on eBay as well for pics of the W211 front and rear door handles). While the rear door handle MAY work for the front door handle, the front door definitely is NOT compatible with the rear door. Either way, I would order the correct part so you don't have issues.
Tools needed: T20 Torx, 8” (200mm) shaft length is fine (bought on eBay for $10 shipped);needle nose pliers (to help swing/rotate forward the electrical connector)
To serve as a guide to help others down the road, here are my notes to the factory instructions that I posted above:
Rear Door Handle Removal Notes
Step. 1. Nothing to add.
Step 2. When starting to unscrew the T20 screw, it will take some initial torque to get it loose as there is Loctite on it. Unscrew it about 2 full turns—don’t loosen more than necessary. Once you are free of the Loctite, the screw loosens quite a bit and the door handle cover will be able to wiggle. Stop there before the screw can come out of the copper sleeve and fallout. See attached pic. You don’t need to keep the T20 screwdriver in place, but I wouldn’t remove it until you can wiggle the door handle cover a decent amount.
Step. 3. To remove the door handle cover, while pulling the door handle outwards, slide the door handle cover towards the back of the car to allow the L-hooks to clear the door frame (see pic; near the yellow marked pieces). This step was trickier than necessary.
Step 4. Once your remove the door handle cover, just slide the whole door handle back towards the rear of the car. It will release the L-catches so you slide out the door handle. Take off the front rubber gasket (it will allow for easier access to the wiring harness).
Step. 5. Pull the door handle out slowly and it will expose the electrical harness. The harness is permanently attached to the door frame via a rotating link. Instead of pointing towards the front of the car, rotate the whole harness 90 degrees so that it points directly at you (perpendicular to the side of the car) for easier harness access. Use a small flathead or needlenose pliers to help facilitate this. Just push the side tab on the harness and it will allow the door handle electrical connector to easily slide out.
Rear Door Handle Installation Notes
Reverse the factory instructions. Note: If you removed the front gasket, transfer it to the new door handle so you have it when you replace the harness.
By far the only issue I had with the installation was trying to get the door handle cover back on. First, seat the door handle back in the door frame—basically get it in the door holes,make sure it’s flush/flat, then slide the whole handle forward to lock it in place. Put your T20 screwdriver back in the door frame and so it barely shows on the rear plastic guide of the exposed rear door handle hole. Now pull the door handle outwards (like you are opening your car door), and then get the L-hooks on the door handle cover (marked in yellow in the pic) to seat the door frame guides. As you let the door handle close, the door handle cover will be flush in front—at this time, you’ll need to use your T20 screwdriver to push the screw connected piece of plastic catch forward so the plastic edge can clear the mount on the door frame. You will notice a 3-4 mm gap near the back of the door handle cover, push with your T20 screwdriver and then tighten up the screw, it will close the gap and you’ll be done.
NOTE ON FRONT/REAR DOOR HANDLE INTERCHANGABILITY
Do note that the front and rear door handles have different catches. The rear door handle has an extra "L" catch towards the rear, while the front door does not and is shorter (just as the CLS owner mentioned; also do a search on eBay as well for pics of the W211 front and rear door handles). While the rear door handle MAY work for the front door handle, the front door definitely is NOT compatible with the rear door. Either way, I would order the correct part so you don't have issues.
Last edited by amg_w211; 03-09-2014 at 11:52 PM.
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