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Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Door Handle Replacement DIY
#151
Super Member
Chrome
What's the VIN number? I did see someone selling chrome covers for the door handles, but I think they should all be painted. Some colors don't exist like some designo ones, those you just have to get the plain ones and get them painted. Also part of the handle is chrome and part of it is painted. You can get the paint code from the VIN.
#152
DIY Door Handle Replacement Success! 07 E63
I'm new to the forum - I bought an 07 E63 about a month an a half ago.
MB world has been worth its weight in gold so working through the E63's list of minor squawks.
The keyless go drivers door handle would lock but not unlock the car. All of the other handles worked fine. I read this thread carefully and figured it would take about 20 minutes to replace the door handle with a new one I bought online.
Everything went as described until it came time to insert the new handle. It went in partway but would not seat cleanly. Then it jammed. I could not get it in or out. I pulled pretty hard but it would not come back out. When I connected the front electrical connector I could see that the female plug had a mount but I didn't see any easy way to get it back in the mount so I just pushed it back in the general area. I stopped and went back to this thread and read another post that said the window broke this connector left hanging loose, and it was a real PITA for that owner to repair the broken connector.
So with a jammed handle and a known unseated connector I took a deep breath and went over to the W211 door panel thread and got a pdf from the factory manual with pictures showing how to remove the door panel. I went slowly and that went fine. These cars are so well built compared to my string of Detroit V8s with their cardboard and vinyl door panels.
With everything off the inside of the door, the back side of the door handle mount is -- of course - up high behind sheet metal, but you can get on the ground and crane your head and use a high intensity flashlight to look up in there, I was able to see that the electrical connector was not jamming the door handle but it was clearly hanging out of its mount in possible danger of being snagged by the descending window.
Satisfied that the handle was not jammed by the connector or unusually stuck I went bask to the outside and stuck my finger in behind the "L" part of the handle and pulled that out and with a firm tug was able to free my new $180 handle without breaking anything.
2 lessons here:
1. I think the handle jammed because (a) I did not seat the front gasket against the door before inserting the front part of the handle. There is not a lot of play once the wire is reconnected but there is enough room to seat the gasket separately before inserting the front part of the handle. There is a tab on the back side of the front gasket and ridges that locate the gasket precisely in the door hole. I think the tab on the gasket ended up outside the door jamming the handle when I tried to seat the gasket and the handle at the same time. (b) When you insert the "L" at the back part of the handle it make sure it goes behind everything it needs to. It was hard to see but it seems like there are two plates there and I think the rear part of my handle only went behind one plate when it jammed. Reach in into the rear hole when the handle is completely out and pull/feel the release plate(s) and you will see what I mean. Another poster reported success using a small screwdriver to pry/move the release plates out when inserting the rear "L" of the handle.
OK - so my handle went in cleanly on the second try.
2. Going back inside the door -- the front female electrical plug has two small molded in plastic pins on the outside of the plug - you can see those if it is loose and you pull it out of the door when the handle is out. Inside the door there is a plastic mount/cradle with two small holes for the pins to click into. I studied the mount with my flashlight and reached up and was able to get the plug it to click in after a couple of tried by feel. Remember at this point my male and female plugs are connected because I have already seated the handle. I am not sure how you would ever get the female plug back in its cradle without taking the door panel off if it pops out when you are disconnecting the male plug , but I suppose it might be possible. Anyway although taking the door panel off was a PITA, at least I know the window is not going to hang on a loose electrical connector.
One final lesson. I put the door panel mostly back together and closed the door to try the new handle. The locks were not working properly. I finally noticed there was a "door open" message on the dash with the doors all closed. I had not put the plastic cover back on that surrounds the door latch yet. That plastic cover must be on to depress the switch in the door frame signaling the door is closed. I put that piece back on and viola, the handles all worked!
So it took a good deal longer than 10 minutes but I was patient and thanks to this thread keyless go is now a go for me!
MB world has been worth its weight in gold so working through the E63's list of minor squawks.
The keyless go drivers door handle would lock but not unlock the car. All of the other handles worked fine. I read this thread carefully and figured it would take about 20 minutes to replace the door handle with a new one I bought online.
Everything went as described until it came time to insert the new handle. It went in partway but would not seat cleanly. Then it jammed. I could not get it in or out. I pulled pretty hard but it would not come back out. When I connected the front electrical connector I could see that the female plug had a mount but I didn't see any easy way to get it back in the mount so I just pushed it back in the general area. I stopped and went back to this thread and read another post that said the window broke this connector left hanging loose, and it was a real PITA for that owner to repair the broken connector.
So with a jammed handle and a known unseated connector I took a deep breath and went over to the W211 door panel thread and got a pdf from the factory manual with pictures showing how to remove the door panel. I went slowly and that went fine. These cars are so well built compared to my string of Detroit V8s with their cardboard and vinyl door panels.
With everything off the inside of the door, the back side of the door handle mount is -- of course - up high behind sheet metal, but you can get on the ground and crane your head and use a high intensity flashlight to look up in there, I was able to see that the electrical connector was not jamming the door handle but it was clearly hanging out of its mount in possible danger of being snagged by the descending window.
Satisfied that the handle was not jammed by the connector or unusually stuck I went bask to the outside and stuck my finger in behind the "L" part of the handle and pulled that out and with a firm tug was able to free my new $180 handle without breaking anything.
2 lessons here:
1. I think the handle jammed because (a) I did not seat the front gasket against the door before inserting the front part of the handle. There is not a lot of play once the wire is reconnected but there is enough room to seat the gasket separately before inserting the front part of the handle. There is a tab on the back side of the front gasket and ridges that locate the gasket precisely in the door hole. I think the tab on the gasket ended up outside the door jamming the handle when I tried to seat the gasket and the handle at the same time. (b) When you insert the "L" at the back part of the handle it make sure it goes behind everything it needs to. It was hard to see but it seems like there are two plates there and I think the rear part of my handle only went behind one plate when it jammed. Reach in into the rear hole when the handle is completely out and pull/feel the release plate(s) and you will see what I mean. Another poster reported success using a small screwdriver to pry/move the release plates out when inserting the rear "L" of the handle.
OK - so my handle went in cleanly on the second try.
2. Going back inside the door -- the front female electrical plug has two small molded in plastic pins on the outside of the plug - you can see those if it is loose and you pull it out of the door when the handle is out. Inside the door there is a plastic mount/cradle with two small holes for the pins to click into. I studied the mount with my flashlight and reached up and was able to get the plug it to click in after a couple of tried by feel. Remember at this point my male and female plugs are connected because I have already seated the handle. I am not sure how you would ever get the female plug back in its cradle without taking the door panel off if it pops out when you are disconnecting the male plug , but I suppose it might be possible. Anyway although taking the door panel off was a PITA, at least I know the window is not going to hang on a loose electrical connector.
One final lesson. I put the door panel mostly back together and closed the door to try the new handle. The locks were not working properly. I finally noticed there was a "door open" message on the dash with the doors all closed. I had not put the plastic cover back on that surrounds the door latch yet. That plastic cover must be on to depress the switch in the door frame signaling the door is closed. I put that piece back on and viola, the handles all worked!
So it took a good deal longer than 10 minutes but I was patient and thanks to this thread keyless go is now a go for me!
#153
MBWorld Fanatic!
Sorry to bump an old thread--I tried swapping front and rear handles but they are drastically different; 2007 E63 wagon for reference. And thank you Jake for the write up!
Last edited by alboogiee; 09-27-2019 at 09:44 AM.
#154
MBWorld Fanatic!
deleted because I was being a frustrated *****
Last edited by DubVBenz; 04-23-2016 at 10:30 PM. Reason: deleted because I was being a frustrated *****
#155
The images are not opening for me.
Anybody else has a copy of them?
Anybody else has a copy of them?
Hey guys, I had to replace the door handle as the lock button didnt work anymore. Figured i would do a diy for others that might have this issue.
Here is the replacement piece
Open the door, and remove the inside weatherstrip at this location
You will then see a screw hole. Take a torx wrench and loosen the screw.
You can then gently remove the lock assembly
I personally didn't know if the screw would fall into the door so I actually taped the torx to the door temp while maintaining forward pressure
Gently slide the handle toward the back of the car and It will pop out
Using needle nose plyers remove the sensor
Slide the new one in making sure that the rubber gaskets are seated properly and the "L" piece of the handle fits behind this gold piece in the door
Push the lock back in and screw it back down
Test and all should be well! One of the things you can actually replace without having to code the darn thing using Star! Really simple to do!
Here is the replacement piece
Open the door, and remove the inside weatherstrip at this location
You will then see a screw hole. Take a torx wrench and loosen the screw.
You can then gently remove the lock assembly
I personally didn't know if the screw would fall into the door so I actually taped the torx to the door temp while maintaining forward pressure
Gently slide the handle toward the back of the car and It will pop out
Using needle nose plyers remove the sensor
Slide the new one in making sure that the rubber gaskets are seated properly and the "L" piece of the handle fits behind this gold piece in the door
Push the lock back in and screw it back down
Test and all should be well! One of the things you can actually replace without having to code the darn thing using Star! Really simple to do!
#158
Junior Member
Ditto......bumping this and hope someone has the pictures from the first post as they are not showing. thanks!
Found this on the tube.....fast forward to about the 4:30 mark:
Found this on the tube.....fast forward to about the 4:30 mark:
Last edited by Teambft; 02-14-2019 at 12:36 PM.
#159
Super Member
You need a torx 20 4“ long for the door handle screw, once you loosen the screw completely do not remove the driver from the screw, otherwise you will likely drop the screw inside the door and mercedes does not list the screw separately in the EPC. THE SCREW is likely in the EPC somewhere though, but where???
#160
Super Member
This thread is very helpful. Unfortunately my keyless door handles started going off one after another. I am not sure why but they all started failing with difference of few days. Anyhow... I was able to follow the steps and replace the handle just fine. But something is hitting against the glass as I hear some noise when rolling my window all the way up. Has anyone had similar problem? What could it be?
I am worried that it could be the connector on the female connector on the front. It pops out of its place when you pull the handle out. I am not sure how you would ever get the plug back in its cradle without taking the door panel off if it pops out when you are pulling the handle out.
I am worried that it could be the connector on the female connector on the front. It pops out of its place when you pull the handle out. I am not sure how you would ever get the plug back in its cradle without taking the door panel off if it pops out when you are pulling the handle out.
#161
Super Member
This thread is very helpful. Unfortunately my keyless door handles started going off one after another. I am not sure why but they all started failing with difference of few days. Anyhow... I was able to follow the steps and replace the handle just fine. But something is hitting against the glass as I hear some noise when rolling my window all the way up. Has anyone had similar problem? What could it be?
I am worried that it could be the connector on the female connector on the front. It pops out of its place when you pull the handle out. I am not sure how you would ever get the plug back in its cradle without taking the door panel off if it pops out when you are pulling the handle out.
I am worried that it could be the connector on the female connector on the front. It pops out of its place when you pull the handle out. I am not sure how you would ever get the plug back in its cradle without taking the door panel off if it pops out when you are pulling the handle out.
#162
Super Member
From internet it looks like even if you remove the door panel you don't get access to where the handle is. You would have to reach from the bottom but only if one had tiny tiny hands. Doesn't look like it is the recommended method. I doubt that MB mechanics would have removed the panel if I went to them for door handle replacement.
#163
Super Member
I hope somebody can help me here. I was switching driver side door handle. Put the new one in and then realized that the keyless go wire was getting on the way of the glass. I tried reinstalling the door handle multiple times with no success. Eventually some plastic that looks like a retainer for the keyless go connection came loose How do I fix it? Should I take the door panel off? If I should remove the door panel, how will I glue that black foam thing back on the door?
#164
Super Member
I hope somebody can help me here. I was switching driver side door handle. Put the new one in and then realized that the keyless go wire was getting on the way of the glass. I tried reinstalling the door handle multiple times with no success. Eventually some plastic that looks like a retainer for the keyless go connection came loose How do I fix it? Should I take the door panel off? If I should remove the door panel, how will I glue that black foam thing back on the door?
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eddieo45 (05-15-2020)
#165
Super Member
I ended up not putting that plastic retainer thing back in its place. I removed the door panel but still couldn't easily access it because it is behind the actual metal frame. I taped the wire to the metal using an electrical tape to ensure that it doesn't get in the way of the window. Works fine since then.
The following users liked this post:
eddieo45 (05-15-2020)
#166
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Wellington, FL / LI NY summertime
Posts: 51
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1984 300TD/2006 CLS55/04 E320 wagon/05 CDI crashed :(
#167
Super Member
#168
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 6,080
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1,148 Posts
2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Basically the problem is that any company that resells MB parts basically has to buy it from the dealer and then apply their own mark up. So for MB specific parts, it's always cheaper going directly to the dealer although sometimes if you'd like the lifetime warranty it might be worth paying more at FCPeuro as I think MB parts just have a 2 year warranty.
#169
MBWorld Fanatic!
Over a period of three years, I ended up replacing every single door handle on my 07 E63. And these OE door handles aren't cheap either.
#170
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Central Jersey
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'14 F15 M, '06 E55, '20 Highlander, '18 M550
Basically the problem is that any company that resells MB parts basically has to buy it from the dealer and then apply their own mark up. So for MB specific parts, it's always cheaper going directly to the dealer although sometimes if you'd like the lifetime warranty it might be worth paying more at FCPeuro as I think MB parts just have a 2 year warranty.
This is completely false. First, a company reselling OEM parts is already buying it a decent bit lower than the dealership would charge then after their markup (depending on their volume status) it would bring it back up to or around dealership level. Secondly these companies are purchasing through a distribution hub (supplier) just the same as the dealership does. This is all basic reseller 101 and applies to just about anything 'resold'. Can the dealership price to consumer be lower on occasion ? Sure, but it's a rarity.
#171
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 6,080
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1,148 Posts
2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
This is completely false. First, a company reselling OEM parts is already buying it a decent bit lower than the dealership would charge then after their markup (depending on their volume status) it would bring it back up to or around dealership level. Secondly these companies are purchasing through a distribution hub (supplier) just the same as the dealership does. This is all basic reseller 101 and applies to just about anything 'resold'. Can the dealership price to consumer be lower on occasion ? Sure, but it's a rarity.
This is basically true of all the major euro vendors mentioned here. They have good prices for aftermarket parts, not for OEM parts.
#172
Member
Anyone know where to buy the driver's side door handle from? Can't see it on FCP Euro. The original links in this thread don't work anymore.
Both my driver's side handles are not working, but both passenger's side are working. Anyway to diagnose if it's the handles or the receivers in the doors?
My trunk handle looks stuck, it only pops open from the inside or by the key. Can't open it from the outside. I think I might need the actuator for the trunk.
Both my driver's side handles are not working, but both passenger's side are working. Anyway to diagnose if it's the handles or the receivers in the doors?
My trunk handle looks stuck, it only pops open from the inside or by the key. Can't open it from the outside. I think I might need the actuator for the trunk.
#173
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 6,080
Received 1,467 Likes
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1,148 Posts
2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Anyone know where to buy the driver's side door handle from? Can't see it on FCP Euro. The original links in this thread don't work anymore.
Both my driver's side handles are not working, but both passenger's side are working. Anyway to diagnose if it's the handles or the receivers in the doors?
My trunk handle looks stuck, it only pops open from the inside or by the key. Can't open it from the outside. I think I might need the actuator for the trunk.
Both my driver's side handles are not working, but both passenger's side are working. Anyway to diagnose if it's the handles or the receivers in the doors?
My trunk handle looks stuck, it only pops open from the inside or by the key. Can't open it from the outside. I think I might need the actuator for the trunk.
You could post your VIN and maybe some kind soul will look up the right part number for you or you could get a copy of EPC and look up the correct part number yourself. It's about $8.50 on eBay and also includes the WIS which is the dealer repair manual. Not that easy to use though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-Merced...d/123730293730
#174
Super Member
Anyone know where to buy the driver's side door handle from? Can't see it on FCP Euro. The original links in this thread don't work anymore.
Both my driver's side handles are not working, but both passenger's side are working. Anyway to diagnose if it's the handles or the receivers in the doors?
My trunk handle looks stuck, it only pops open from the inside or by the key. Can't open it from the outside. I think I might need the actuator for the trunk.
Both my driver's side handles are not working, but both passenger's side are working. Anyway to diagnose if it's the handles or the receivers in the doors?
My trunk handle looks stuck, it only pops open from the inside or by the key. Can't open it from the outside. I think I might need the actuator for the trunk.
#175
Super Member
I replaced all mine this past summer. Cheapest I found new color matching was from https://www.autohauspartsdelivered.com/. I also order other parts from them. They are a dealership online parts store.
mit took about 20 mins each handle to replace. Also my passenger front door cable connection went bad so I ordered a used interior handle bracket from eBay which included the cable, and it works great after that replacement. So “could” have been the cable connection all along.
mit took about 20 mins each handle to replace. Also my passenger front door cable connection went bad so I ordered a used interior handle bracket from eBay which included the cable, and it works great after that replacement. So “could” have been the cable connection all along.