Todd Edge

I installed both this afternoon. I only need to bleed the air from the system but, can't seem to get anything...

I got the car up to operating temperature, removed the rubber cap on the intercooler line and used a clear tube running into the resevoir. I then put a clamp on the same coolant line so everything would be diverted into the clear line so I can watch for the air to stop.

I started the car and ran it for another 5-7 minutes and I don't get a thing out of the line. No coolant or air. Could the pump be bad or am I missing a step? I can't really hear anything from it but, I wired it brown to black and red to red.

Any ideas?

The car holds steady at the operating temperature.

Thanks,
Todd

Viet_Amg408

there's air still trap before and after the thermostat...

just top off the coolant reservior and drive it normally and top it off after a day or two.. let the car magically bleed itself...

GT-ER

I don't think E55 can bleed themselves. I think the CLS and S systems are sightly different.

Todd Edge

I'm about to connect the pump directly to a mobile battery jumper to confirm that the pump is even working...

Turbo 6

That should work.

I bleed mine by hooking a hand pump to the bleeder, then put the discharge into the resorvoir and pump until I don't see bubbles in the suction. Works for me.

Todd Edge

When I connected it to the jumper, it ran perfect. I ran it for about 15-20 minutes and got all the bubbles out so it is finally bled… I twisted the wires together to confirm a good connection between the pump and the factory wiring(red on red, black on brown) and ran the car up to operating temperature. I never heard the pump cut on. It is about 40 degrees so the motor is running what I'd assume is really cool. Is the pump supposed to cut on as soon as the car is at operating temperature or will it only cut on when the supercharger/intercooler reaches a certain temperature? I hate to put the bumper back on and button up everything to find out I still have a problem. I’m hoping that it is activated by boost or heat within the blower and that is why I’m not getting it to cycle on, as I had expected. Does anyone have any advice?

320 dreamer

on my 32 (s/c 3.2 v6) the pump wont kick on until 2000 rpm. then it stays running until the engine id turned off. you will need to solder those wires together. i would suggest taking the old pump apart and using the oen plug and solder the wires to the old plug. theres a small capacitor in line to prevent electric surge when the pump kicks on. should be reinstalled also

skratch77

The pump turns on when you go on boost.you should get a scan tool to log your intake temps.also it wont kick on if your temps are at 40d

Todd Edge

Thanks. That is what I was hoping. I'm going to put the bumper back on this afternoon and then run it hard to make sure it is coming on when needed.

Thanks,
Todd

Todd Edge

Seems like it is working now. I made a few pulls this afternoon and never felt like the supercharger shut down.

Thanks for the help.

Todd

Viet_Amg408

overall i believe you got it the first time around.

relax and keep it simple

chawkins2001

sounds good now Todd.

Todd Edge

Yep, I think it was ready to go the first time. I was basically done in 3 hours with the removal of everything and the new parts installed and then second guessed myself and had issues bleeding it that added another 3-4 hours of trial and error.

I think I'm finally ready for the pulley, LT's and tune...

We'll see.

Thanks,
Todd