First I checked my pump by jumpering with a battery. It ran great-sounded like a jet engine.

I then checked the pump's ground wire---GOOD.

I then started to back-track my power source..

My fuse was good.

I then check the relay, by energizing it with a battery and alligator leads and an ohm meter... RELAY CHECKED OUT GOOD. hhmmmm.... keep looking up river....

HERE'S WHERE THINGS GOT INTERESTING---- while my relay was out I started checking it's sockets for power and grounding. I got power going into the relay's frontside circuit AND I got power going into the relay 12v trigger pin.
BUT WHAT I WAS NOT GETTING WAS A GROUND ON THE RELAY TRIGGER GROUND PIN SOCKET!!! I then jumpered a grounded wire into the ground socket and replaced the RELAY AND WHAM-- IT WORKED.

I have included a picture that will hopefully help other E55 owners in the future. I'm sorry if the picture is a little difficuly to understand. As Forest Gump would say "I'm not a bright man" so it's the best I could do given my limited mental capacity.

 

Nice! thanks for the info. I am sure someone will ask about it sooner or later

 

Easy to read to me, Thanks!

 

Great photo. Could you please point me in the direction of the location of this relay?

 

By reading other threads i guess my relay is located in my engine bay as i have an 04. 05 and above the relay is apparently in the boot on the right hand side under the side trim.

 

I just checked my car and i have a relay in the boot on the right side as well and a relay as per the picture above.

Could anyone shed some light on this please?

 

Well I changed the relay in the engine bay and for 1 day it was ok. The light is now back on.

I have it booked in with the dealer for my diff install so I'll leave the light on so they can read it and see what's going on.

 

Hey men, I just checked your post and I thank you. I found out that the 40a fuse was blown. and I hope to replace it asap. Do you think there could be any other underlying issue because I tested the relay with a 12v source across pin 85 and 86 and the clicks sounded good.

 

Code it out in SDS, remove pump, and have a good day

 

Good point. Within the SDS, where do I find the entry to 'remove' the secondary air pump circuit? Have an SDS but am new to it; still poking around having fun. But I have a W220 with a consistent P0410 code. Thanks!
Cheers,
Jeff

 

Jeff, I'll have to check and I'll let you know.

 

Thanks Cougar. I nailed the root problem today (relay) and will post closing thoughts in a different thread. Although I have the problem solved, I am interested in where to turn off the Secondary Pump Circuit using the SDS. Obviously, no rush. Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Jeff

 

5 hour trip to visit the family and CEL shows up. Got the P0410 code and started to follow your instructions. Found I had forgotten to reconnect the air pump hose after taking the air cleaner off to clean it while changing the oil a couple of days earlier. Reconnected, cleared code, but cel came back on. Had blown the fuse. Replaced fuse, relay and pump now working fine. FWIW, when I went to get the fuse, dealer parts guy said they seem to see quite a few "sticky" relays and that is usually the problem.

Well, working fine for a while. The cel came back on and this time when I connected a battery to the pump, it did not work. The sticky relay mentioned by the dealer parts guy must have stuck in the on position and cooked the motor in the pump. Replaced the relay ($30???), bought a used pump for $195 and it seems to be back in business. It kicks in a few seconds after a cold start, runs for maybe half a minute or so and then cuts off.

I had about 150,000 miles on it when this all started going bad. Stuff just wears out sometimes. I don't want to try to count how many times I have started this car up. Figured I'd take my chances with a used one for $195 rather than the $300+ I was seeing. Not planning on keeping it for more than another couple of years. It came out of an '08 with 75,000 on it. Or so they say.

The actual replacement is pretty easy. Remove the front engine cover. Pull or carefully pry off the three hose connections. Remove the electrical connector. Remove five torx head bolts and pull out. One of the bolts is behind the serpentine belt, but you can get at it. I used a telescoping magnet when they started getting close to fully out. Dropping them looked like a lot of retrieval work. The bolts are threaded into aluminum so just snug will do. There are a couple of tubes that run between the bracket and the front of the engine so be careful you don't pinch them on installation.

 

You never mentioned how to code this out. Are you able to share with me? Thanks in advance.

 

Diagnose Secondary Air Injection, EGR, and Post Cat 02 Sensors through SDS

This thread will tell you how to code out each.

 

why do i keep blowin the fuse for the secondary pump need help it on a 07 e350

 

I have the same issue pump is good as I ran direct power to it. Checked the big 40 amp fuse that's good, but it still does not come on. Haven't checked the relay because I dont know how. Can anyone help me with this P0410 code?

 

Could you please indicate the relay pin numbers as it is better understood that way. Regardless of the orientation of the pins, 85 and 86 pins are usually the control pins and 30 and 87 pins are the power pins. For some reason, I am not getting any power to any of my relay pins and your response to my request is highly appreciated.

 

wouldn't that cause the air pump to run continuously?

 

Just thought to add if of value to others... My P0410 code was eliminated with installation of a new pump ($130 online) and easy to replace, but after about a year the code kept coming back. Replaced vacuum lines, vacuum line check valve (blue one-way valve in a vacuum line), relay, fuse, and nothing kept the CEL off.

Took to my trusty indie mechanic and he diagnosed both diverter valves were not holding vacuum. Replaced both and all is well so far, but it's only about a week later.

I am sure I could have perhaps opened/cleaned them but I've put enough time and effort under the shade tree that I decided it was just time to get a pro to do it.

Wish me luck.

Once these ML350s have the major engineering problems repaired (balance shaft engine issue, front differential bearings and seals, automatic transmission electronic/valve plate, electronics including stereo head unit) they actually run pretty damn well!