skratch77

What setup are you using to data log?It looks pretty good and I would like to try it out.Are you using a laptop with some obd2 software?

BenzoDoc

I'm using an OBDScan-Apex. I had a Turbo'd RX-8 track car before the E55, and all the RX-8 guys use this OBD logger on their cars so I followed suit. If I'm just eyeballing temps I take the 17" and output either graphs on the fly or 6 variables. This saved me a ton of money on the RX-8 because I didn't have to get AFR/Oil/Water temp gauges or tap any of my lines, since I could run a DC/AC Inverter + laptop and just watch the temps that the computer saw.

If I'm looking to log and do more aggressive pulls I just borrow a friend's Dell mini, and the program outputs .CSV files that I can put in excel and graph.

One word of warning - as I'm not sure what other OBD2 readers people are using can do, I will say that this WILL NOT read AFR on the E55 for some reason [as it did on the RX8 no problem].

Because this is so dated, I am not sure whether there is existing manufacturer support, I guess you can toss them an email.

http://www.obdscan.net/APEX.htm

Ali_E55

my friend has a CLS55 and his first mods were LT headers with no Cats and OE Tuning. The car was crazy and pulling hard untill it reaches 320km. to compare

a E55 with 172mm pulley + tune jump ahead from dig. but on third gear. the CLS catch by and pass him easily all the way up to 320km.

comparing to stock, we can say that it is 6 car length ahead from a stock 55

MBH motorsports

As most of you know I did LTH as a first mod. I ran around for a while with a primary cat delete, no tune or anything. So needless to say I had the post cat CEL. AFR was improved slightly over stock. Meaning I wasn't running a rich as the factory tune makes you. I then added a 180mm pulley and tune to the mix. The power is awesome.

From my testing with my product, this is what you get.

LTH about 50whp and 40wtq

180mm pulley and tune about 50whp and 70-100wtq. The reason I say 70-100 is my car picked up over 100wtq. where as my brothers CLS 55 picked up about 70ish. I haven't looked at the charts in a while, but I think I'm pretty close.

Chances are the tuner will be retarding the timing more than they would on a car with headers, when a pulley is in the mix. I think thats important to note. This is part of the reason headers along with a pulley and tune make big power. This could also be the reason why I've seen my headers exceed 50+ whp. When added to a car with a pulley and then retuned for the headers.

I'm not a tuner by any means, but headers in general (especially Long headers) will allow you to safely run a bit more timing and drop the boost a bit. All while making more power.

Turbo 6

If you're worried about loosing luxury and comfort with long tubes, leave the stock mufflers on. It'll have a deeper exhaust note with no drone.
Even if you delete all four cats it'll still be quiet.

motorkas

Totally agree with this. . . My mods went - tune first, then Headers with tune, then headers, tune and pulley. I think headers and tune should be first mod. For me what I noticed the most with headers and the tune was how much the car opens up up top. It's literally night and day. The power gains are a little deceiving because of the drop in boost and the "feeling" that you lost low end torque. The unusual benefit, that seemed counter-intuitive to me at first, is that while you have significant gains in power, you can still be fairly aggressive with launches because it's a little bit friendlier on the low end. Add a pulley (I have a Kleemann 168) and forget about launching hard without a dedicated drag package. With headers and tune, my PR was a 11.7 on street tires with a 1.7 60'. Once I threw on the pulley and dyno tune by OE, I only could manage a 11.8 with a 2.1 60' in 70 degree weather with stock cooling mods (and forgetting to reset the tranny). Obviously, the car is faster, but from a dead stop - you'll never be able to quantify it on street tires because to combat the spin, you really have to baby it out of the gate...on the street at 60 mph and hitting it. . .well that's a different story...

03'55AMG

WAIT! We missed THE very first mod that is 100% needed.. Tires! what use is more power when stock can spin out @ 30mph?

Shifter

so what is the result of menthonal injection? And why is nobody using it to control intake temps?

pullejo

I picked long tubes as my first power mod. Got in on the group buy...but while they're still being "hand crafted"...I've subsequently picked up a Eurocharged HE/180 pulley/and a tune...but I'm not installing those until the headers arrive and I'll be doing it all at once.

In the interim...I dropped her off at MB Buckhead to get rotors/pads/sensors all around ($508 with me supplying the components) and service D (total ripoff...$700) this morning...gotta make sure you can stop fast if you plan on going fast. There were THREE W211 E55's in the bay this morning and a sick sounding CLS55 pulling out.

skratch77

wow you got *** raped hard.My local shop changed my brakes rotors and pads for 50 bucks and I brought them the parts.

for little things like brakes and pads people should stay far from the stealer.

How do they charge 500+ in labor to change brakes is crazzy.It litterally take 10 min per wheel with taking the wheel off and on again.

GT-ER

You're paying $500 in labor alone to swap out pads and rotors? Damn...I really should get into the MB mechanic business. You can do the swap yourself in about 1 hours...taking it easy.

pullejo

Yeah...I know. A$$ raped on that one. As well as the Service D. Only reason I keep going back there is they always find something else that's covered under warranty.

This will probably be the last time I go back because after the mods, I'm wondering how it'll affect my warranty. I've got an indie shop (one of Eurocharged's guys) that will probably get all my business that says they'll be able to still get work done under my warranty.