shardul
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thank you sir. But these are just dyno numbers and you know they vary a lot.
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Hey Shardul, Do you have a list of mods? sheesh, i thought 550ftlbs was hellish power! how the hell does your ESP do it???
shardul
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190mm, Eurocharged tune, Grinded 74mm TB, 3 inch exhaust x pipe, modified stock headers, 3" ceramic cats, TTM fuel rail and 550cc injectors, heat exchanger, meziere pump.
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wow! why not 80mm tb? im a newb but more air seems like a dead give away for more power
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I thought my 610ft lbs was a lot. Broken record here but I am gonna say it again. You da man!!
shardul
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i have been reading on the Kennebell website they say a 74mm is good for about 600 rwhp before it becomes a restriction. I really want to attach a gauge to see how much vaccum a 74mm is pulling as compared to a 82mm in 3 gear on a dyno pull. Originally Posted by 03'55AMG
wow! why not 80mm tb? im a newb but more air seems like a dead give away for more power
I have a MB 82mm sitting eventually i will put it on. i have installed a couple of 82mm kits on other E55s.
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I have a MB 82mm sitting eventually i will put it on. i have installed a couple of 82mm kits on other E55s.
sweet, so maybe youll pick up a few ponies at the wheels with the 82.. when do you plan on dynoing them both?Originally Posted by shardul
i have been reading on the Kennebell website they say a 74mm is good for about 600 rwhp before it becomes a restriction. I really want to attach a gauge to see how much vaccum a 74mm is pulling as compared to a 82mm in 3 gear on a dyno pull. I have a MB 82mm sitting eventually i will put it on. i have installed a couple of 82mm kits on other E55s.
shardul
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wont be anytime soon. a lot of my friends have a 82mm so i just have to get both cars on the dyno on the same day to get some what accurate results.Originally Posted by 03'55AMG
sweet, so maybe youll pick up a few ponies at the wheels with the 82.. when do you plan on dynoing them both?
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On second thoughts Shardul...those compression results look awful...I'll give you $50 for the car to make your life stress-less, that way you have more time in Whole Foods checking out senoritas

shardul
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LOLOriginally Posted by slownrusty
On second thoughts Shardul...those compression results look awful...I'll give you $50 for the car to make your life stress-less, that way you have more time in Whole Foods checking out senoritas
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Here are mine, test result of all 8 cylinders.
All are in between 10 and 10,4 bar which equals 145 to 150psi i guess.
The engine was not in operating temperature, this means that in operation temp. the pressure is slightly higher
All are in between 10 and 10,4 bar which equals 145 to 150psi i guess.
The engine was not in operating temperature, this means that in operation temp. the pressure is slightly higher
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Last Saturday I had some time to stick a 82 MM T-body on the flow bench.
It Flowed 930 CFM. Then I installed the Y from a 80 MM set up. It Drop to 850 CFM. That is a 80 CFM drop? I'm looking to install this type of set up on my klee blower. I need to do more fabrication. If I was shipped a stock 74 mm , I would flow it for comparison against one with a Shaft grind done by (NOT ME) enough interest we will start a new thread
Cheers _PTEngineering
It Flowed 930 CFM. Then I installed the Y from a 80 MM set up. It Drop to 850 CFM. That is a 80 CFM drop? I'm looking to install this type of set up on my klee blower. I need to do more fabrication. If I was shipped a stock 74 mm , I would flow it for comparison against one with a Shaft grind done by (NOT ME) enough interest we will start a new thread
Cheers _PTEngineering
shardul
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PM sent I will ship you a stock 74mm
Ok, so I have a question. Are all these throttle bodys different factory units, or modfied factory units, or both? Or just aftermarket??
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I dont know if this was ever answered, but, Did you pull the fuel pump relay, unplug the CPS or both to do compression testing?
I should test mine this weekend!
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yes i still have the kit with me. took about an hr to do.Originally Posted by aghakauve
I should test mine this weekend!
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Quote:
All are in between 10 and 10,4 bar which equals 145 to 150psi i guess.
The engine was not in operating temperature, this means that in operation temp. the pressure is slightly higher
Very good,competent and beliveable results (same as mine on brand new engine). They mean that your compression is superb in consistency and in pressure AND that you have not a single trace of carbon build up in chambersOriginally Posted by Zod
Here are mine, test result of all 8 cylinders.All are in between 10 and 10,4 bar which equals 145 to 150psi i guess.
The engine was not in operating temperature, this means that in operation temp. the pressure is slightly higher
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Here are the results. WIS say the compression number should be within 22 psi of each cylinder which I think is too much.
It is a pretty straight forward procedure, just remember to disconnect the CPS which doing this test so this will prevent the engine from starting.
Cylinder 1 161
Cylinder 2 155
Cylinder 3 160
Cylinder 4 160
Cylinder 5 161
Cylinder 6 160
Cylinder 7 161
Cylinder 8 160
If anyone has done this please can you share your results. Does anyone know what the compression results should be on a 55k motor?
i am about to start doing some modifications so i also decided to check compression. these results are with the engine at operating temperature.Originally Posted by shardul
Since I am running a bigger pulley and have other mods I figured I would do a compression test on my car. After doing this I think this is a must for all the heavily modded cars. Exotic-Metal55 was kind enough to lend me his compression testing set. Here are the results. WIS say the compression number should be within 22 psi of each cylinder which I think is too much.
It is a pretty straight forward procedure, just remember to disconnect the CPS which doing this test so this will prevent the engine from starting.
Cylinder 1 161
Cylinder 2 155
Cylinder 3 160
Cylinder 4 160
Cylinder 5 161
Cylinder 6 160
Cylinder 7 161
Cylinder 8 160
If anyone has done this please can you share your results. Does anyone know what the compression results should be on a 55k motor?
Cylinder 1 162
Cylinder 2 162
Cylinder 3 162
Cylinder 4 162
Cylinder 5 162
Cylinder 6 165
Cylinder 7 163
Cylinder 8 163
Mine were all in 130 ish,however my guage may be bad,or camshaft might bleed off a little who knows,car ran in the tens I'm not worried
shardul
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as long as all the cylinders are within 10% of each other you are fine Originally Posted by cnterline
Mine were all in 130 ish,however my guage may be bad,or camshaft might bleed off a little who knows,car ran in the tens I'm not worried

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Cam is lowering your comp or gauge is offOriginally Posted by cnterline
Mine were all in 130 ish,however my guage may be bad,or camshaft might bleed off a little who knows,car ran in the tens I'm not worried
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Here's my compression and leak down numbers when the car was at 18k miles done by MB dealer from previous (1st) owner as documented from the copy of the service record I got when I bought the car from them.
Compression test result:
C1 175psi
C2 175
C3 175
C4 175
C5 170
C6 175
C7 175
C8 170
Leak down test result:
C1 3%
C2 3%
C3 3%
C4 3%
C5 3%
C6 0%
C7 3%
C8 3%
Compression test result:
C1 175psi
C2 175
C3 175
C4 175
C5 170
C6 175
C7 175
C8 170
Leak down test result:
C1 3%
C2 3%
C3 3%
C4 3%
C5 3%
C6 0%
C7 3%
C8 3%
You are supposed to pull the fuel pump relay when doing a compression test. Otherwise you're still getting fuel into the cylinders and will skew your numbers and possibly flood the cylinders if cranked too much
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As mentioned earlier, the fuel pumps should always be unplugged for the compression test. Any liquid in the cylinder will aid in sealing and bump the numbers up a bit. Worse, they could even them out and hide a potentially low cylinder... which is a more valuable output than the raw pressures themselves.









