kustom2k1

Yep

E55Greasemonkey

NM

E55Greasemonkey

Nevermind,got it figured out.

55fanatic

gonna spill the beans for the rest of us?

urbamworm

It isn't a secret, cut the side tanks off and remove the inner walls/passages to make it a single pass instead of triple pass then weld the side tanks back on. Cooler water in there all the time cooling instead of the same water going back and forth 3 times before it leaves the core as it gets hotter and hotter with each pass inside

E55Greasemonkey

That's about it, you also may want to open up the fittings from 5/8 to 3/4 per sir-boost-a-lot's advice to me. I did some testing today with a spare bosch pump, hoses, modified intercooler and a lot of water. The pump and heat exchanger are 3/4 already. Hopefully Ill have some IAT 1/4 mile data in a few weeks. Previously was hitting 145-155 max In the quarter at about 65F ambient. Will see if anything changes. I am also going to wrap the core assembly with heat barrier

E55Greasemonkey

I'm not sure how scientific this was, but it was fun. As a note, the faucet with both handles on fully and the aerator removed could not keep up with this old model worn out Bosch pump. We later went to a bucket of water and the faucet running to keep up flow. My concern was that even the upgraded Bosch pump would not flow enough to force the water through the entire core when "opened up," however after testing it performed well. A higher output pump can be swapped in later on the car for testing.

e55amgrocket

I did a bunch of testing last year with 3 different cores and trying to figure out the best thing to do in my opinion. I did 1 the way I wanted to which was to cut the sides off, remove the dividers and cut back the return side to match it like the inlet side then grind them down smooth and actually port the openings to help water flow. My fabricator did his own design doing mostly the same but adding bigger 1" fittings and then he did another with a divider so it was 1 core but had 1inlet/outlet front and rear. After hours of our own testing based just on water flow the 1" line was by far the best but would take some extra work routing the lines to and from the trunk. We both agreed that the stock 3/4" inlet/out running the stock hard lines would be plenty enough for drag racing as well as street use. It's time consuming to do and something you have to be very careful as well as when welding the tanks back on but the results are well worth it.

e55amgrocket

Forgot to add we tested using a 6 gallon tank and a rule 4000 pump. 2 of the Wp136 pumps work great also. Flow is a huge part of the equation I've found out.

E55Greasemonkey

Thanks for your input, we have similar findings, I tested also 4 inlets/outlets with the core divided in half, but at the end of the day it was more work to do than just the single in/out fittings and we couldn't see much benefit. I was also thinking what to do with the return side tank and agree the best solution is to grind out that cast "tunnel" which looks pretty small anyways and open it to the same as the other tank. The stock fittings are 5/8 on the core, which I will replace with 3/4" and run the whole system with 3/4" silicone hose getting rid of the 5/8' factory aluminum lines. I am not running a trunk tank as I have no intention of adding ice, just a small 2 quart pass-through tank underhood for filling, bleeding and watching the flow, it's actually a modified C class overflow tank with an added pipe going in. I am ordering some fitting tomorrow and hopefully will install everything in a couple weeks.

E55Greasemonkey

Here I am testing half of the core, using "dumdum" to temporarily seal the tank and make a "divider"

e55amgrocket

I'll let you in on a big secret most people don't know or even think about. Hoses aren't all the same. We found a pretty significant increase going from a standard Jegs -12 hose to a -12 Aeroquip PTFE Teflon hose. It's all in the little details

chawkins2001

That is pretty hot brotha. These beasts start to pull timing at 115* as I am sure you know. I do have a worked intercooler on my sled. We made it a single pass with larger sidetanks and ports. I saw a 8-10* drop in iats at WOT. It helped but certainly did not cure the heat issue.

Forrest Gump 9

Have you try move the water inlet to the middle of the core?

rockthemullet

Nice

jcjmw

I have to redo all my lines to my tank. Thanks for the tip. This time I will use your suggested hose.

MAN55LE

Timing is pulled in three stages 35, 45, and 65°C

Dug this one out of the archives:



So timing is pulled in three stages at 35*c, 45*c, and 65* c

e55amgrocket

The key to a good 1/4 run is to keep IAT's under 100 and obviously as low as possible. As far as the 8-10 degree drop that seems really low. What pump are you using Craig? From all the testing we did we found out you have to have a pump that can keep the core ice cold and that usually requires more than 1 pump. Two CM90's or WP136's are ok but the bigger 3700 and 4000gph bilige pumps are better and flow more.

e55amgrocket

That stuff is $$$ plus it takes custom PTFE fittings and those are $$$ also. Guess it comes down to how bad do you want it

urbamworm

This is why gave up on making the E55 "fast." It is no fun when all the work and money is put in and the car is only good for one glory run then it is a completely different car after (like on the street).

chawkins2001

I am running two WP136 Meziere pumps bro, one in the rear and one upfront. I only now see sub 100* temps with a ice packed trunk tank and meth.

On a 75* day, my run started out at 40* after the burnout, and ended at 90* after the run. These temps inlcude having my meth come on during the burnout.

E55Greasemonkey

I don't use any tricks at the track, just an open hood for 45 minutes between runs. And then creeping up in the staging lanes I see IATs around 100 even at 65F outside. So it's more if a real world race for me, other than the drag radials. I've considered some fans behind the heat exchanger but for the few times a year I visit the track it's probably not worth it. If I can pick up a tenth with the IC mod and a tenth with the 2.82 gears that will put me in low 11's which is good enough for me,for this car.

urbamworm

Craig someone did some testing with a flow gauge (the guy works for a company that does high tech flow meters for different industries) and those Meziere pumps don't flow for **** with restriction put on them. It was much less than the advertised number when they were actually pumping through an intercooler core and heat exchanger.

He had a tank which he mounted higher than the intercooler core (ZL1 Camaro core) gravity fed down to a pump (mezeire was one in the test) which was the lowest point and a heat exchanger right above the pump.

The Mezeire did 5.17gpm at 12.25 volts. Other pumps he had in the test were a bosch which did 5gpm at 12.4v, a Jabsco 50840 which did 5.9gpm at 12.3v and a ZR1 pump which did 8.2gpm at 12.1v which as you see flowed the best by far but it is a pricey pump.

He ran it Tank -> pump -> HX -> intercooler -> tank for those results and it was a hair less (.1) on 2 of the pumps when he changed it to Tank -> HX -> pump -> intercooler -> tank

I know there are several people out there running the Mezeire pump thinking it is good with it rated at 20gpm, but truth is that is with zero restriction on it. As you see from the test that number PLUMMETED with some stuff put in the stream of flow and it was only .1 better than the stock CTS-V Bosch pump (.5 better with the second routing test since the Bosch dropped to 4.5). He wanted to test the Johnson CM90 which is said to free flow 17gpm and handle head pressure better than the other pumps in the test so it may not have had as bad of a hit when there was an intercooler and heat exchanger in the mix but he didn't get around to testing since he took his rig apart after installing his new intercooler and heat exchanger.

e55amgrocket

The WP136's flow well enough to get the job done for drag duty and after a lot of tinkering (getting pissed off) I decided to have my rear pump push the water to a front pump and then thru the intercooler and back to the tank. I would start a run at 34-36 degrees and end the run under 110 usually. The new setup will be a rule 4000 to start off with then go from there. I would also put 20-25lbs of ice in per run or 2.

e55amgrocket

Kinda weird with us having similar setups but me not having meth that the IAT's would be that different. That was with the 195mm pulley also and that thing did nothing but make heat. Similar air temps also.