Removing rear door panel
#1
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2010 E350, 2011 ML350, 2003 996TT
Removing rear door panel
Anyone know the trick to removing the rear door panel? I can't seem to figure out how to remove the ashtray part and I don't want to break it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#3
Guys,
My rear pax side door won't close/latch. Can somebody help with how to remove the rear door trim without breaking anything? There is no screw behind the ash tray (I took the inside out to look behind). I have a feeling I can fix this if I can remove the rear lock piece and assembly including the latch etc.
Thanks
My rear pax side door won't close/latch. Can somebody help with how to remove the rear door trim without breaking anything? There is no screw behind the ash tray (I took the inside out to look behind). I have a feeling I can fix this if I can remove the rear lock piece and assembly including the latch etc.
Thanks
#4
Yes, there is a screw behind the ashtray.
4 screws in total.
Two under the trim panel below armrest.
One under "SRS" button
Last one behind ashtray. You have to pull the entire ashtray from the door, not just remove the insert. You will also use this opening to unclip several electrical connections. The most delicate one is the ribbon cable.
After the screws are out, work your way around the door with a pry tool. Once door panel is loose you will need to push/pull it straight up to get it free from the window channel.
4 screws in total.
Two under the trim panel below armrest.
One under "SRS" button
Last one behind ashtray. You have to pull the entire ashtray from the door, not just remove the insert. You will also use this opening to unclip several electrical connections. The most delicate one is the ribbon cable.
After the screws are out, work your way around the door with a pry tool. Once door panel is loose you will need to push/pull it straight up to get it free from the window channel.
#5
Member
Yes, there is a screw behind the ashtray.
4 screws in total.
Two under the trim panel below armrest.
One under "SRS" button
Last one behind ashtray. You have to pull the entire ashtray from the door, not just remove the insert. You will also use this opening to unclip several electrical connections. The most delicate one is the ribbon cable.
After the screws are out, work your way around the door with a pry tool. Once door panel is loose you will need to push/pull it straight up to get it free from the window channel.
4 screws in total.
Two under the trim panel below armrest.
One under "SRS" button
Last one behind ashtray. You have to pull the entire ashtray from the door, not just remove the insert. You will also use this opening to unclip several electrical connections. The most delicate one is the ribbon cable.
After the screws are out, work your way around the door with a pry tool. Once door panel is loose you will need to push/pull it straight up to get it free from the window channel.
Don't forget about the one at the door latch. It's the only one that's T20 torx.
Last edited by ziggityzen; 03-18-2012 at 12:32 AM.
#6
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DONT FORGET THE BLUE RIBBON connector behind the ashtray, i had to replace both my rears after the tints were done as the doofus installer didnt unclip these and they both ripped off
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#8
thanks a bunch for the help guys. Now, after removing the panel, would I be able to easily replace (if needed) the door lock that is malfunctioning? or is there something additional involved? Feels like a spring or something that isnt working right, since the little latch thing inside the door moves down, but doesnt hook so the door would remain closed.
Now that you guys have the mentioned the ribbon cables, I will see if I can easily unplug those...otherwise, I might end up taking the car to the shop $$$$$
Now that you guys have the mentioned the ribbon cables, I will see if I can easily unplug those...otherwise, I might end up taking the car to the shop $$$$$
Last edited by MrKool; 03-18-2012 at 10:04 PM.
#9
so panel removed and I see...
the part that doesnt click/lock.
so it seems there is no way to remove the lock from the door without removing the lining thing, all the other components and pretty much taking the whole door apart...
the part that doesnt click/lock.
so it seems there is no way to remove the lock from the door without removing the lining thing, all the other components and pretty much taking the whole door apart...
#11
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2003 SL55, 1978 280SL, 2007 ML63
You will have to remove the lining and a few other pieces to get it out. I don't remember if the window also has to come out.
I do have an extra lock unit from a parts door I bought that I don't need. Let me know if you're interested.
I do have an extra lock unit from a parts door I bought that I don't need. Let me know if you're interested.
#13
Junior Member
Great tech article on how to get this done.
This article shows you how to get the job done. I'm doing this right now to my rear driver side lock actuator. It wouldn't click closed so the door won't stay shut. I bought a used unit on eBay for $68.00. I installed it using the instructions i'm about to link below. Tip! Be careful with the torx t20 screw that sits inside the external door handle release bracket. It fell out and into the rear door. I'm considering removing the door and shaking it upside down just to get the lil bugger out.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm