Brake Wear, Visit Workshop
#1
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Brake Wear, Visit Workshop
Question.. going to be replacing with oem pads.
Do I need to replace rotors, or can I just replace the pads? Rotors/pads were replaced when I bought the car about 30-35000kms ago...
Looking at the front pads, they seem DONE, rears still look ok...
Also are these part numbers correct?
Rotor Part#: 230 421 07 12 $230 shipped (2)
Pads Part#: 003 420 71 20 $250 shipped (1 set for fronts, plus sensors)
Thanks guys
Do I need to replace rotors, or can I just replace the pads? Rotors/pads were replaced when I bought the car about 30-35000kms ago...
Looking at the front pads, they seem DONE, rears still look ok...
Also are these part numbers correct?
Rotor Part#: 230 421 07 12 $230 shipped (2)
Pads Part#: 003 420 71 20 $250 shipped (1 set for fronts, plus sensors)
Thanks guys
#2
If you have a brake micrometer, measure the thickness of the rear discs at two or three locations across the friction surface. So long as your discs are not below the minimum specified thickness for the disc, they really don't need to be replaced.
The minimum thickness spec is stamped into the outer edge of the disc. Spray some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe the disc edge until you find the spec. The discs ought to last longer than one set of pads.
OTOH, since you're going through this, some would argue you might as well do the discs at the same time since they're not that horribly expensive. But I'd see how much thickness is left - if it's over 1mm, I'd just do the pads for now.
The minimum thickness spec is stamped into the outer edge of the disc. Spray some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe the disc edge until you find the spec. The discs ought to last longer than one set of pads.
OTOH, since you're going through this, some would argue you might as well do the discs at the same time since they're not that horribly expensive. But I'd see how much thickness is left - if it's over 1mm, I'd just do the pads for now.
#3
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If you have a brake micrometer, measure the thickness of the rear discs at two or three locations across the friction surface. So long as your discs are not below the minimum specified thickness for the disc, they really don't need to be replaced.
The minimum thickness spec is stamped into the outer edge of the disc. Spray some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe the disc edge until you find the spec. The discs ought to last longer than one set of pads.
OTOH, since you're going through this, some would argue you might as well do the discs at the same time since they're not that horribly expensive. But I'd see how much thickness is left - if it's over 1mm, I'd just do the pads for now.
The minimum thickness spec is stamped into the outer edge of the disc. Spray some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe the disc edge until you find the spec. The discs ought to last longer than one set of pads.
OTOH, since you're going through this, some would argue you might as well do the discs at the same time since they're not that horribly expensive. But I'd see how much thickness is left - if it's over 1mm, I'd just do the pads for now.
Thanks man! Will check it out
#4
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03 E55 AMG, 06 Harley Road King Custom 06 Ram 2500 Cummins, 97 Firebird Race Car, 88 Cutlass Supreme
If the rotors were replaced with the pads last time you should be ok with a pad slap. When I bought my car that's what the Mercedes dealer did on my car. Rotor had a lil lip on it but nothing crazy. You should always check em with the micrometer though if your not sure.
Stock pads dust like CRAZY though. May want to consider Akebono or Hawk or one of the other known brands of aftermarket pads.
Stock pads dust like CRAZY though. May want to consider Akebono or Hawk or one of the other known brands of aftermarket pads.
Last edited by BBBSS; 03-17-2012 at 01:47 AM.
#5
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What mm should I be fine with on the stock rotor? Cant seem to find any info on that...
Im only going with stocks because after using other pads in the past on other cars, none seem to bite as hard as the oems... :dunno:
Im only going with stocks because after using other pads in the past on other cars, none seem to bite as hard as the oems... :dunno:
#6
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CLS 55 AMG, FX45, F-350, Top Secret Widebody Supra (Sold) and other vehicles on another Planet
You should most likely be okay with your stock rotors. I had to do replacement pads last week and put on the Akebonos. Very very awesome brake pads and I have yet to see any dust on my wheels since I washed them right after the brake pad install. It's been 7 days and usually I'd already see a thin layer of brake pad dust by now on the stockies. I needed a brake pad that had minimal dust because of my new wheels arriving in a few weeks. Brooke (Exotic metal) highly recommend these since I'm using my stock rotors for now. Nothing worse than cleaning your wheels only to have them look dirty a few days later. I purchased my Akebonos from Amazon.
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#8
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Serious
I just had bad experience before with them hence holding off... How do they compare to oems? Dust I don't care more concerned about stopping
I just had bad experience before with them hence holding off... How do they compare to oems? Dust I don't care more concerned about stopping
#9
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I have tried all sorts of aftermarket "performance pads", granted not the Akebonos, but all in all I generally prefer an OEM pad....Most often the performance pads do not have as good an initial bite or feel to an OEM pad - Porterfield, Hawks, etc. and for me initial bite and consistency are very important on a street car.
#10
Super Member
FWIW the Akebonos on this car bite a little better than stock but not aggressively where they eat the rotors, definitely no fade with repeated hard stops. I've used them for almost 60k miles now. The dustless bit is just icing on the cake.
PS. I drive my car in Atlanta 100+ degrees F and chicago teens and these puppies stop better than stock for me with repeated stops. Do them Tony.
PS. I drive my car in Atlanta 100+ degrees F and chicago teens and these puppies stop better than stock for me with repeated stops. Do them Tony.
#11
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FWIW the Akebonos on this car bite a little better than stock but not aggressively where they eat the rotors, definitely no fade with repeated hard stops. I've used them for almost 60k miles now. The dustless bit is just icing on the cake.
PS. I drive my car in Atlanta 100+ degrees F and chicago teens and these puppies stop better than stock for me with repeated stops. Do them Tony.
PS. I drive my car in Atlanta 100+ degrees F and chicago teens and these puppies stop better than stock for me with repeated stops. Do them Tony.
If someone has these pads in LA or OC and would let me test for 2 - 5 mins. I would be most appreciative....Nothing silly, just a standard driveway (low speed stop) and then a 60mph to 0 stop.
#12
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my .02
The oem pads dust bad unfortunately(wash your car more often)
The oem are easier on the rotors. The aftermarket pads eat the rotors IMO.
I have owned 5 different mercedes in my life, numerous times I've tried aftermarket pads and always come back to oem. I like the feel of the oem pads over anything else
The oem pads dust bad unfortunately(wash your car more often)
The oem are easier on the rotors. The aftermarket pads eat the rotors IMO.
I have owned 5 different mercedes in my life, numerous times I've tried aftermarket pads and always come back to oem. I like the feel of the oem pads over anything else
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03 E55 AMG, 06 Harley Road King Custom 06 Ram 2500 Cummins, 97 Firebird Race Car, 88 Cutlass Supreme
Min thickness should always be cast right into the rotor. Haven't seem one without it yet. Usually around the rotor hat somewhere. Should be clearly visible once the wheel is off.
#16
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i replaced my rear pads only when it had 57k miles, but rotors were still good. On average, you should be able to go through two sets of pads before needing new rotors.
#17
I've always swapped rotors with every other pad change
Ive had Akebonos which are great for no dust but are hard on the rotors and make this annoying clicking sound shifting between reverse and drive on my C32. This was because the shims didn't fit the pad properly.
Ive had Akebonos which are great for no dust but are hard on the rotors and make this annoying clicking sound shifting between reverse and drive on my C32. This was because the shims didn't fit the pad properly.
#18
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#21
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Ordered from mbonlineparts.com $457.25 shipped! If anyone else looking, mbonlineparts.com was cheaper than parts.com