Is my rim out of balance ? Too many weights~!!!
04-04-2012, 02:17 PM
#1
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08 E63 AMG
Is my rim out of balance ? Too many weights~!!!
Hi guys ~ just washing my car yesterday and noticed I had a lot of balance
weights on my wheel . And I checked all 4 of them and they all have about
the same amount. I though genuine rims balances very well . But whats
happening with mine ???
weights on my wheel . And I checked all 4 of them and they all have about
the same amount. I though genuine rims balances very well . But whats
happening with mine ???
04-04-2012, 03:59 PM
#3
As an opening proposition, know that balanced is balanced. So regardless of the amount of weight required to achieve dynamic balance, if the wheel/tire assembly ends up balanced, then it is balanced no matter how much weight was required.
There are several variables that can affect how much weight is necessary to balance a wheel / tire assembly. Some of the factors include the condition of the tire, what planes of the wheel are used to measure balance (e.g., outside lip, behind spokes, inner rim, etc.), what type of balancing weights are being used (i.e., clip-on versus tape-on due to positioning), and most obviously, wheel condition (i.e., amount of lateral or radial run-out in the rim).
Tire shops with better equipment (read: Hunter Road Force Balancers) can do "split" weight placement and balance the wheel in a manner such that the weights required on the outward plane of the wheels can be placed behind the wheel spokes. (Looks like the poster's shop didn't bother.)
It's necessary to keep in mind that as the two balancing weight planes become closer together, the wheel/tire assembly will require more balancing weight. Conversely, back in the day of steel wheels with hammer on weights on both wheel lips, less weight was required to achieve dynamic balance.
Finally, wheel quality does matter. Many of the cheap cast wheels that have flooded the market over the past few years simply are going to have slight out-of-balance issues right of the box due to lack of manufacturing precision.
The old rule of thumb was that if a single weight plane required more than 60 grams of balancing weight, there was an issue with either the tire or the wheel. With larger wheel/tire assemblies these days, an assembly may require more than 60 grams to be brought into dynamic balance on a weight plane.
The most effective way to minimize balancing weight required (and end up with the smoothest ride - least vibration) is to find a shop with a Hunter Road Force balancer, and have them "Force Match" the tires to the rims, which involves rotating the tire on the rim to the location where vibration is minimized (and usually amount of balancing weights, too).
Sorry for rambling on here, but done correctly, there's alot that can go into an optimal balancing job.
There are several variables that can affect how much weight is necessary to balance a wheel / tire assembly. Some of the factors include the condition of the tire, what planes of the wheel are used to measure balance (e.g., outside lip, behind spokes, inner rim, etc.), what type of balancing weights are being used (i.e., clip-on versus tape-on due to positioning), and most obviously, wheel condition (i.e., amount of lateral or radial run-out in the rim).
Tire shops with better equipment (read: Hunter Road Force Balancers) can do "split" weight placement and balance the wheel in a manner such that the weights required on the outward plane of the wheels can be placed behind the wheel spokes. (Looks like the poster's shop didn't bother.)
It's necessary to keep in mind that as the two balancing weight planes become closer together, the wheel/tire assembly will require more balancing weight. Conversely, back in the day of steel wheels with hammer on weights on both wheel lips, less weight was required to achieve dynamic balance.
Finally, wheel quality does matter. Many of the cheap cast wheels that have flooded the market over the past few years simply are going to have slight out-of-balance issues right of the box due to lack of manufacturing precision.
The old rule of thumb was that if a single weight plane required more than 60 grams of balancing weight, there was an issue with either the tire or the wheel. With larger wheel/tire assemblies these days, an assembly may require more than 60 grams to be brought into dynamic balance on a weight plane.
The most effective way to minimize balancing weight required (and end up with the smoothest ride - least vibration) is to find a shop with a Hunter Road Force balancer, and have them "Force Match" the tires to the rims, which involves rotating the tire on the rim to the location where vibration is minimized (and usually amount of balancing weights, too).
Sorry for rambling on here, but done correctly, there's alot that can go into an optimal balancing job.
Last edited by komp55; 04-04-2012 at 04:30 PM.
04-04-2012, 04:21 PM
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08 E63 AMG
these guys wore out ~!!! Maybe I'll find out if its the tires.
As an opening proposition, know that balanced is balanced. So regardless of the amount of weight required to achieve dynamic balance, if the wheel/tire assembly ends up balanced, then it is balanced no matter how much weight was required.
There are several variables that can affect how much weight is necessary to balance a wheel / tire assembly. Some of the factor include the condition of the tire, what planes of the wheel are used to measure balance (e.g., outside lip, behind spokes, inner rim, etc.), what type of balancing weights are being used (i.e., clip-on versus tape-on due to positioning), and most obviously, wheel condition (i.e., amount of lateral or radial run-out in the rim).
Tire shops with better equipment (read: Hunter Road Force Balancers) can do "split" weight placement and balance the wheel in a manner such that the weights required on the outward plane of the wheels can be placed behind the wheel spokes. (Looks like the poster's shop didn't bother.)
It's necessary to keep in mind that as the two balancing weight planes become closer together, the wheel/tire assembly will require more balancing weight. Conversely, back in the day of steel wheels with hammer on weights on both wheel lips, less weight was required to achieve dynamic balance.
Finally, wheel quality does matter. Many of the cheap cast wheels that have flooded the market over the past few years simply are going to slight out of balance issues right of the box due to lack of manufacturing precision.
The old rule of thumb was that if a single weight plane required more than 60 grams of balancing weight, there was an issue with either the tire or the wheel. With larger wheel/tire assemblies these days, an assembly may require more than 60 grams to be brought into dynamic balance on a weight plane.
The most effective way to minimize balancing weight required (and end up with the smoothest ride - least vibration) is to find a shop with a Hunter Road Force balancer, and have them "Force Match" the tires to the rims.
Sorry for rambling on here, but done correctly, there's alot that can go into an optimal balancing job.
There are several variables that can affect how much weight is necessary to balance a wheel / tire assembly. Some of the factor include the condition of the tire, what planes of the wheel are used to measure balance (e.g., outside lip, behind spokes, inner rim, etc.), what type of balancing weights are being used (i.e., clip-on versus tape-on due to positioning), and most obviously, wheel condition (i.e., amount of lateral or radial run-out in the rim).
Tire shops with better equipment (read: Hunter Road Force Balancers) can do "split" weight placement and balance the wheel in a manner such that the weights required on the outward plane of the wheels can be placed behind the wheel spokes. (Looks like the poster's shop didn't bother.)
It's necessary to keep in mind that as the two balancing weight planes become closer together, the wheel/tire assembly will require more balancing weight. Conversely, back in the day of steel wheels with hammer on weights on both wheel lips, less weight was required to achieve dynamic balance.
Finally, wheel quality does matter. Many of the cheap cast wheels that have flooded the market over the past few years simply are going to slight out of balance issues right of the box due to lack of manufacturing precision.
The old rule of thumb was that if a single weight plane required more than 60 grams of balancing weight, there was an issue with either the tire or the wheel. With larger wheel/tire assemblies these days, an assembly may require more than 60 grams to be brought into dynamic balance on a weight plane.
The most effective way to minimize balancing weight required (and end up with the smoothest ride - least vibration) is to find a shop with a Hunter Road Force balancer, and have them "Force Match" the tires to the rims.
Sorry for rambling on here, but done correctly, there's alot that can go into an optimal balancing job.
Thank you for all the info !! I was just curious to see a lot of weights ~!!
Because after all AMG wheels should be so precis that it should balance out
with only couple of weights !! I should road force balance it aging at my
local tire shop where they have HUNTER balance ~!
04-04-2012, 04:24 PM
#5
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Generally, when there is an "abnormally" large amount of weight needed to balance, the installer will dismount the tire and rotate it on the rim and rebalance. Of course, lazy balancers will just go with it, because as stated above, ultimately, balance is balance.
04-04-2012, 05:25 PM
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2004 E55 AMG
AMG wheels are not precise by any means, and judging by the picture I would say there is absolutely nothing to be concerned about. My knock-off wheels require a strip about the same size as yours, as did my OEM AMG wheels. I have had several sets of tires on all my wheels, and I don't think any of them have ever taken less than a couple of ounces, which is 8 sections of 1/4 oz. weight. Balanced is balanced, no matter how it's achieved.
04-04-2012, 07:29 PM
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E 63S Wagon Renntech, E55 Renntech, SL65, SL 55 030, ML, bunch of old ones--they come, they go...
Counterpoint.
That's too much weight.
The above poster is right in that amg wheels are not truest out there. And no offense, but I wouldn't use sumitomos on a Benz. Just me. Still, too much weight.
If you're satisfied with it, all good. You may not realize how much better it can be. My suggestion wou be to get to a shop that has a road force balancer and who can fine finish them on the car. That is simply the truest setup there is. Unfortunately it's a dying art and just because they have the gear doesn't mean they know how to use it.Anyway, just my .02, and worth about that. I've lost lots of my own money and time learning.
The above poster is right in that amg wheels are not truest out there. And no offense, but I wouldn't use sumitomos on a Benz. Just me. Still, too much weight.
If you're satisfied with it, all good. You may not realize how much better it can be. My suggestion wou be to get to a shop that has a road force balancer and who can fine finish them on the car. That is simply the truest setup there is. Unfortunately it's a dying art and just because they have the gear doesn't mean they know how to use it.Anyway, just my .02, and worth about that. I've lost lots of my own money and time learning.
