If you have a 178 pulley I can make it into a 182-84 for 30 bucks
I totally forgot I was trying different size belts to get rid of the S/C harsh engagement and I dynod the car with a 52in belt and I just installed my 6 rib(yes 6 rib)k61295 belt thats like a 51in and the car is seeing almost 1.2-1.5 more psi than before.
I was also trying to figure out how I went from almost 600rtw to 520-530 so If you guys are running a 178 the k61295 is a super tight fit and will take some man power to get it on the car,it will not fit a 180 and you will get more boost if you are coming from a 51.5 belt.
That was my biggest secret on making easy free power and just wanted to let you bros know.
Dont come crying if this belt blows your bearings on you blower,you need to come up with a way to get some tention off the belt...hint jam something inbetween the coolant line.
I will try to hit the dyno soon and I have no doubt the car is back to where it was since second gear now feel like first again

and for you 180 owners there is a slight chance a k81298 belt might fit with some force,we need asp to machine a smaller pulley for the tentioner to fit these smaller belts.
Last edited by skratch77; May 23, 2012 at 03:18 PM.
I totally forgot I was trying different size belts to get rid of the S/C harsh engagement and I dynod the car with a 52in belt and I just installed my 6 rib(yes 6 rib)k61295 belt thats like a 51in and the car is seeing almost 1.2-1.5 more psi than before.
I was also trying to figure out how I went from almost 600rtw to 520-530 so If you guys are running a 178 the k61295 is a super tight fit and will take some man power to get it on the car,it will not fit a 180 and you will get more boost if you are coming from a 51.5 belt.
That was my biggest secret on making easy free power and just wanted to let you bros know.
Dont come crying if this belt blows your bearings on you blower,you need to come up with a way to get some tention off the belt...hint jam something inbetween the coolant line.
I will try to hit the dyno soon and I have no doubt the car is back to where it was since second gear now feel like first again

and for you 180 owners there is a slight chance a k81298 belt might fit with some force,we need asp to machine a smaller pulley for the tentioner to fit these smaller belts.
Do you log boost, if so would you send me a boost plot so I could see what you are running ? TIA
A shorter belt will end up spinning the sc pulley faster too,if my math is right it should
I am seeing 12.5-13psi now and I barely say over 11 with longer belt
Last edited by skratch77; May 23, 2012 at 04:05 PM.
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I have Gates belt, and seems only my harsh engagement only comes on when I feed slowly the throttle input.. but its not too bad. In C mode, is almost non existant.
I'm planning to get a S/C pulley, I will need to come up with the right belt for that application..
And also, I thought you said you had cams in your car and think there was something else different when you did 540whp or whatever it was?
My last dyno at 530whp was with a a gallon of 104 mixed with 5 galons 93 and this same shorter 6 rib belt.
I forgot that i tried like 3 or 4 different sizes to try to get the car to engage smoother and the belt was really long and made the car not build as much boost.
For the guy thats not sure its a well known fact that the shorter the belt the more boost you will make,you arechanging the speed the belt will run threw a shorter ratio.
And my pulley is a true 178 from evotech not sure how the asp 180s are but if they are true 180s the 6k1295 belt will not clear as my 178 is at the limit.it took 10 min to get it on with a set of pliers pulling it over sc pulley
Your engines main bearing (particularly the front one) will wear out notably faster as well as wearing out tensioner bearings and the blower bearings faster by running crazy tension.
A good belt wrap kit to get the belt to contact the pulleys as much as possible along with whichever belt slips the least is the proper cure for belt slip.
I know with the procharger guys Reichard Racing made a pulley with lil notches in the pulley ribs and that helped with belt slip. Not sure if anyone building pulleys on the blower side (only one place making these I believe?) has looked into this but it may help here as well.
Last edited by BBBSS; May 23, 2012 at 05:15 PM.
Your engines main bearing (particularly the front one) will wear out notably faster as well as wearing out tensioner bearings and the blower bearings faster by running crazy tension.
A good belt wrap kit to get the belt to contact the pulleys as much as possible along with whichever belt slips the least is the proper cure for belt slip.
I know with the procharger guys Reichard Racing made a pulley with lil notches in the pulley ribs and that helped with belt slip. Not sure if anyone building pulleys on the blower side (only one place making these I believe?) has looked into this but it may help here as well.




Your engines main bearing (particularly the front one) will wear out notably faster as well as wearing out tensioner bearings and the blower bearings faster by running crazy tension.
A good belt wrap kit to get the belt to contact the pulleys as much as possible along with whichever belt slips the least is the proper cure for belt slip.
I know with the procharger guys Reichard Racing made a pulley with lil notches in the pulley ribs and that helped with belt slip. Not sure if anyone building pulleys on the blower side (only one place making these I believe?) has looked into this but it may help here as well.
You need to study up on your pulley knowledge.
Here, have fun with this calculator:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/pulleybeltcalc.html
Notice how no matter how long you put the belt length, the input and output rpms don't change. Only the spacing on the pulleys and the belt wrap change.







