03'55AMG

I have done a lot of searching and have a good idea on how tricky a sub swap is, but still have a few questions.
-As far as the car throwing the battery light with an aftermarket amp, would a cap help with this issue even if im only planning on running 3-400 watts RMS? Im looking at a 10" sub that will handle 550 RMS and 1200 peak, and an amp that will be a bit under those ratings (~400 rms/ 1000 peak).
-With the stock sub in place and a single 10" in the trunk, will any of this bass even get into the cabin? I am trying to avoid ripping up the rear shelf, and plan on using a ported box, instead of an infinite baffle setup.

Also, would sound deadening be required to avoid a rattle?
any advice would be helpful

SterlingE55

I have at least that much of an amp without issues. I removed my factory sub and built a box that bolts up to the bottom of the rear shelf firing through the factory location. My thread is around here somewhere. I'll find it when I get home in a day or so. Search here and the planet. I remember csmungi having a thread on his set-up.

03'55AMG

Did you have any issues as far as rattle? and does your setup have a capacitor?

SterlingE55

It rattles when I really put the juice to it but not under normal operation. No capacitor.

03'55AMG

Good. I figured it would be SUPER easy, battery is within a foot of where I'd mount the amp, audio and signal wires are all within a foot or two also. Hopefully going to be a super easy install.
Oh, As far as the ground for the amp goes, Would it be best to ground directly to the battery or to the chassis?

SterlingE55

Battery ground goes straight to chassis. 6 to one; half dozen to another.