W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63
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Working on my launch.... track guys, I need help...."vid"

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Old 07-01-2012, 09:34 PM
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Working on my launch.... track guys, I need help...."vid"

Every one here knows what I'm after. And the car has what it takes to get there. I' starting to think that it might be me holding the car back. Or maybe I'm just missing something some where. I need some help.

I've been back to the track four times now with the new trans. I've been to PBIR twice and County Line (1/8th mile) twice. Both times at PBIR I couldn't hook for sh*t. Even the first time at County Line I kept spinning through first gear. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I never really had any problems hooking up before. What do you guys think will help my 60?

Last night was the first time it hooked. To bad I only got one run in. And like a dumb a*s I forgot to drop the psi in the tires. It was at 32 psi in the Hoosiers. I wonder what would have happened if i had lowered the psi.

This video is RedBullJnky vs JS Benz (E55 vs CL55).



I should be able to launch harder but I guess I'm just lost right now. Or maybe I'm just scared to brake another trans. I don't know.

Last edited by RedBullJnky; 07-02-2012 at 02:36 PM.
Old 07-01-2012, 09:42 PM
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When you going again?
Old 07-01-2012, 09:56 PM
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I'm no expert on the subject, but I've got about 60-70 runs in. Are you brake-torquing (loading the converter up) at all? I left-foot brake, rev to 1100-1200, and on the third yellow I let off the brake and quickly (but not abruptly) apply the throttle. My 60' is merely decent, considering where I race, but my r/t's are pretty consistent using this method.

I'm sure some of the pro draggers here can fix or elaborate on this technique.

What is your usual PSI with those tires? How low can you go before it gets scary?
Old 07-01-2012, 11:03 PM
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What is the tire pressure and how many passes do you have on the tires?
Old 07-02-2012, 12:29 AM
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Old 07-02-2012, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 02S430
When you going again?
Next weekend or sooner Are you here?
Originally Posted by Denroll
I'm no expert on the subject, but I've got about 60-70 runs in. Are you brake-torquing (loading the converter up) at all? I left-foot brake, rev to 1100-1200, and on the third yellow I let off the brake and quickly (but not abruptly) apply the throttle. My 60' is merely decent, considering where I race, but my r/t's are pretty consistent using this method.

I'm sure some of the pro draggers here can fix or elaborate on this technique.

What is your usual PSI with those tires? How low can you go before it gets scary?
I pretty much do all that. But the psi will vary from 12 - 18 depending on the track

Originally Posted by blackbenzz
What is the tire pressure and how many passes do you have on the tires?

Psi on the run from up top was 32. Normally it would be 15.
Old 07-02-2012, 01:05 AM
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Thanks Dima!!!!

Here is the time slip from the vid. The tire pressure on this run was 32 psi. The CL55 ran 7.3 on a 1.8 '60.

Old 07-02-2012, 10:25 AM
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Never raced my car with drags so I probably wont be much help... Not sure if you can smash it out of the whole or if you roll into the throttle. I know on streets I could only roll into it and Ive snapped out 1.8s with some decent prep. Track prep has so much to do with it. Are you going on street nights or track rentals? If you want your 10 go on a track rental day when they really load up the track. Also try for during the day sun might help hook better.

Last edited by Jimshorts; 07-02-2012 at 10:28 AM.
Old 07-02-2012, 11:05 AM
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When I cut a 1.5x 60 ft, I had my pressure at 12lbs, burned out to the line, launch off idle, and put my foot through the floor. It will either hook or it wont, if it does not, try again.

I don't feather it or dilly dally around, if the track is prepped right, and you have the right tires with the correct pressure, you will hook. Get rid of those tires, and step up to MT ET Streets with no tube, it will take you and the car to the next level.
Old 07-02-2012, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimshorts
Never raced my car with drags so I probably wont be much help... Not sure if you can smash it out of the whole or if you roll into the throttle. I know on streets I could only roll into it and Ive snapped out 1.8s with some decent prep. Track prep has so much to do with it. Are you going on street nights or track rentals? If you want your 10 go on a track rental day when they really load up the track. Also try for during the day sun might help hook better.
I've pulled 1.8 on street tires. I think it's just the power I have to get used to. This is the most power this car has had and I think the prep haas a lot to do with it. But thanks mang! I'll take all the advise I can get.

Originally Posted by chawkins2001
When I cut a 1.5x 60 ft, I had my pressure at 12lbs, burned out to the line, launch off idle, and put my foot through the floor. It will either hook or it wont, if it does not, try again.

I don't feather it or dilly dally around, if the track is prepped right, and you have the right tires with the correct pressure, you will hook. Get rid of those tires, and step up to MT ET Streets with no tube, it will take you and the car to the next level.
I don't play around either brotha! I think it might be time for better tires too.
Old 07-02-2012, 05:16 PM
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What suspension setting do you use? I know a few including me think the highest and softest setting allows the weight to shift back over the rear tires theoretically improving traction.

You might ask around as to which track is known for the best track prep. Where I used to live, IRP was know for ***** prep on Tuesday night street legals. However, a 90 minute drive to Muncie dragway on Wednesday nights always produced better 60s because the track owner kept the track well prepped. maybe you have a similar situation in south FL.

Like Chawkins says, a lot of guys launch from idle and go right to WOT. You either hook or you don't.
Old 07-02-2012, 05:34 PM
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That might help have the car raised and in comfort suspension. I know when I raised my car I ran slower but I havent tried it recently.
Old 07-02-2012, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RedBullJnky
Next weekend or sooner Are you here?
I'm in the building
Old 07-02-2012, 06:25 PM
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The details help pull up flick the tires in the water and get out of the water box pull up burnout.
Old 07-02-2012, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 99lightning
The details help pull up flick the tires in the water and get out of the water box pull up burnout.
Damn I noticed that too. Get in the water tap the gas spin them in it, pull up and do burn out. The guy at the line walked me through it one tiime.
Old 07-02-2012, 07:32 PM
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Always launch in comfort mode,I use dyno mode always,DO NOT brake torque it or try to come up on the converter. What I found to work is after your staged torque it a little to raise the rear of the car then left off the gas. Wait for the lights and floor it. Either she hooks and your gone or it dosent and you let off and cruise down the track keeping her cooler becauae theres no sense in making a bad run in my opinion.
Old 07-02-2012, 08:04 PM
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Forgot to tell you to start tire pressure at 20lbs and go from there. My car is heavier so I actually went to 24lbs and found it worked better there when it was hot out. I've had them everywhere from 15lbs to 26lbs and I know 15lbs was way to low for my car. I spun the tire in the rim and the car would blow the tires off at the hit.
Old 07-02-2012, 08:07 PM
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Sorry, Sorry, I'm a dumb a*s!!!

I always go around the water box. Then back into the water. Quick spin the tires to get them wet. Then pull up to do my burn out, then roll out of it.
The car is always in comfort (suspension), And i raise the car at the line. Then, depending on how the car feels, I will stall between 800-1200rpms. And when the third light hits I'll put the peddle through the floor and see if it hooks.

I keep the trans in M mode, because I like to controll the shift points. I shift at 6200rpms so that it drops back into peek tq, with out overheating. Once my meth gets back in order I will let it shift on its own.

I hope this will help get some answers. Thanks guys!
Old 07-02-2012, 08:38 PM
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Was talking to an MB tech the other day. He told me even with ESP off, it will still control wheel spin, stabbing the brake on the side that loses traction. He said, essentially, ESP off will only remove throttle retardation. I suppose that is why I can produce enormously long and straight burnouts. So, if the E is the same as my SL, ESP off still causes the brakes to come on. This makes me think dyno mode just might deliver a 10th or two better run. Just be careful braking after you broke you PB.
Old 07-02-2012, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cal1
Was talking to an MB tech the other day. He told me even with ESP off, it will still control wheel spin, stabbing the brake on the side that loses traction. He said, essentially, ESP off will only remove throttle retardation. I suppose that is why I can produce enormously long and straight burnouts. So, if the E is the same as my SL, ESP off still causes the brakes to come on. This makes me think dyno mode just might deliver a 10th or two better run. Just be careful braking after you broke you PB.
I have'nt been back in dyno mode since I broke the trans. And on the run it broke, was the only time I launch from idle. I've always stalled.
Old 07-02-2012, 10:46 PM
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Launch off idle and it flashes the converter higher and seems to work best. Looking at your 1/8th mile pass you need to get it down in the 7.00's to have a good chance at a 10. Can't wait to see what it does with ice and meth.
Old 07-02-2012, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by chawkins2001
When I cut a 1.5x 60 ft, I had my pressure at 12lbs, burned out to the line, launch off idle, and put my foot through the floor. It will either hook or it wont, if it does not, try again.

I don't feather it or dilly dally around, if the track is prepped right, and you have the right tires with the correct pressure, you will hook. Get rid of those tires, and step up to MT ET Streets with no tube, it will take you and the car to the next level.



Wow 12lbs? Your nuts! That can't be safe bro.
Old 07-02-2012, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cal1
Was talking to an MB tech the other day. He told me even with ESP off, it will still control wheel spin, stabbing the brake on the side that loses traction. He said, essentially, ESP off will only remove throttle retardation. I suppose that is why I can produce enormously long and straight burnouts. So, if the E is the same as my SL, ESP off still causes the brakes to come on. This makes me think dyno mode just might deliver a 10th or two better run. Just be careful braking after you broke you PB.



Ive never ran in Dyno mode or from idle curt.
Old 07-02-2012, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cal1
Was talking to an MB tech the other day. He told me even with ESP off, it will still control wheel spin, stabbing the brake on the side that loses traction. He said, essentially, ESP off will only remove throttle retardation. I suppose that is why I can produce enormously long and straight burnouts. So, if the E is the same as my SL, ESP off still causes the brakes to come on. This makes me think dyno mode just might deliver a 10th or two better run. Just be careful braking after you broke you PB.
This is true and has been for quite some time. My 1999 C43 is exactly the same, turning ESP off just eliminates the throttle cut but the brakes are still activated up until 50 MPH. After 50 MPH (80 KPH) they figure it is more dangerous to have the ESP system apply brakes so the light will flash but it isn't doing anything.
Old 07-03-2012, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by e55amgrocket
Looking at your 1/8th mile pass you need to get it down in the 7.00's to have a good chance at a 10.

Boom there it is ^^^^^^ how was the DA? The reason I ask is because for your mods your 1/8 mile speed is about 4-6mph low for what I have seen for a high 10sec E55. If the DA was good then you made need a slight tune adjustment


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