I recently had a issue with mine, after my battery dead. After replacing the 11 year old battery, yes you heard me 11 yrs old. Mercedes sure knows how to make em. Anyway after paying $222.60 from the dealership, using the SA membership discount, and turning in the old battery core. My car is running like a champ again. I tried opening the sunshade then sunroof, the sunshade wouldn't cooperate, after several tries it finally opened, then the sunroof started acting weird. I managed to get that opened as well, then the sunshade wouldn't close. Well, I let the car sit there until I finished work, I then remembered to try the sunroof rest sequence and it worked. No further issues, then I thought that I would try the transmission reset as well. And honestly, I haven't felt any changes yet.

 

 

Was yours making the machine gun sound?

 

No, that noise is cause by a misalignment of the drive motor engaging the gear for the sunroof. But it's a easy fix, see video.

I hope this helps.

 

I have not been able to open and close my pano roof since I got the car, but using the washer fix in this video I got it working! Cleaned and lubricated everything and enjoyed it working properly for a short time and then the machine gunning noise returned.

Had a big scare when I was not able to get the sunroof to close all the way, and found a few bits of broken black plastic inside the aluminum rails, so I tightened the screws on the motor as tight as I could and after lots of pulling and prying on the glass I was able to get it to open and close again, but this time with the machine gunning every time I closed it fully. Decided not to F with it anymore, stuffed some foam in the tracks to stop/muffle the rattles, closed it one last time, and unplugged the motor before putting my overhead console back together.

After a #9 fuse pull I am still able to use the power sunshade, and this is fine with me because I never really open the actual sunroof but it's nice to have the view out sometimes. HOWEVER, the problem now is that if I open the sunshade all the way it will not close back until I do another fuse pull reset. If I only open it 99% of the way I can close it back no problem. I was wondering though, if there is a workaround for this? Perhaps coding out the sunroof motor so that the sunshade can do the one touch open one touch close without looking for the sunroof position at all? Or maybe even some kind of resistor hack? Any ideas? I'm okay with it the way it is, but it would be super nice if I could get at least the sunshade working as it is designed and not having a rattling pano roof is worth not having it open. Thanks!

 

Any updates? I'm having exactly the same issue as you describe here.
Thinking I need to drop the headliner to access the motor and do the washer fix from YouTube.

 

No updates yet, I just don’t open the sunshade all the way. Or at all that often tbh. So far hasn’t been any rattles from the pano roof which is good.

Wish I had all the money in the world, I’d pay one of those RV windshield companies to make me one solid piece of glass to cover the whole roof and rip out all the opening and closing hardware of the pano roof and just have the sunshade.

 

I'm going to try to do the washer fix whenever I have time and see if I can access the necessary bolts to add the washers.

The panoramic sunroof is not something I use often either but the sunshade is necessary during the Texas summer. Right now I'll just pull the fuse once again and not open it 100% as you've been doing it.
I'm trying to understand the mechanics of how pulling a fuse makes the motor work just fine for one cycle and then not work again.

 

Hey, I am wondering if you solve that issue since I am also in the same boat.

 

My 2007 E63 has been offline since January due to my having had repaired the TCU as it left stranded on the side of the road not being able to shift out of 1st gear! Not too terrible a fix, but the length of time to do so was extended due to my not being able to find that Tranny Fluid Adapter anywhere in my garage! FCP Euro had one to me within a week or so.

My prior Brake Bleed tool I made from a HD Fertilizer/Pesticide 1 Gal unit I attached a Pressure Gauge to had a blown pump, so when I went to get another one, the opening was too small to fit a hand in to attach the Pressure Gauge, but I attached the same wand I used one the 1st, and it screwed on perfectly to pump Tranny Fluid. For those you wondering, I cut off the end of the HD wand and simply attached clear tubing to it secured with stay ties.

I then noticed I had a Hydraulic Oil Leak from one of 2 of my RMT ReBuilt Front Struts! I had taken my Driver Side in a few months ago when I began doing the replacement TCU. That one was covered by Warranty as I had brought it in more than once since 2017, but the other one had not, so the warranty had expired. Nonetheless, I still stand by RMT and their best efforts as a brand new one is $$$!

So while I was waiting for that, I busted out the replacement Brake Hoses I had stashed away. There was No better time than the present, so away I went, this time without trying to use the Brake Bleeder as my last effort proved to be a total mess! This time I just made sure to replace the Fluid at the reservoir every 5 pumps or so. In retrospect, I could have done 10 pumps, but I was being overly careful not to allow air into the system via the reservoir, a big “No No”. I still had that cacophony of sound when pressing the brake while bleeding the passenger rear (probably the Driver too but I was too far away to hear from the Caliper). I’ll add that I bled the Driver Rear 1st with a helper pumping the brakes just after replacing the hose. Yes, WIS calls for the Pass Side to “ideally” be bled 1st, then Dr R, Dr F, Pass Fr, in that order. After the Dr R, I ended up doing rest of the Hose Replacements/Bleeding by myself as WIS states that you should actually pump continuously making sure to draw the pedal back up slowly during the process so as to NOT introduce air. In order to get rid of that sound emanating from the ABS Rears, I going to have suck it up and bring it in provided Mercedes doesn’t tell me that they have to devote this many hours to confirm my connections are secure!

But I Digress, after completion of the above, I am now in process of “Alignment” since I made 2 turns inward (Increased Camber with negative angle) on my F1 Upper Front Camber Arms as my steering was straight but too light! By doing so, it will splay the front tires outward slightly, so the tie rods will have to adjusted (tightened) in order to tighten up the steering! I’m shooting for 1mm (2mm total).

That said, and since this is what the Thread is supposed to be about, when I pulled her out of the garage, The Sunroof was “Not Programmed” so I experienced being able to only open/close the Pano Roof Sunviser(s). WIS only states that the Switch must register the end point from the Hall Sensors at each stop. What this means is After reaching the end stop for the Visors, you have keep the switch depressed for a couple seconds (I counted 3) then return and do same, do again to open then push up to Tilt counting again to 3, then down to 3, Tilt Again and proceed to open all the way (here it may only open a couple inches at a time) then again the at the end continue to push the switch for 3 seconds, and return to close and do same. Then it should be fully programmed! It worked for me!

 

If I understood correctly, then I made a video of exactly this. That worked for me too when I had to cut the power to the battery for some maintenance