Radiator support re-fitting help
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,752
Likes: 176
From: London, UK
W212 - E63 AMG
Radiator support re-fitting help
Hi guys, I wonder if anybody else has struggled with this.
So recently I changed my alternator and had to remove the metal radiator support bar thing which hides the hood catch cable. I'm having trouble getting the thing aligned back up and with the rad too...anybody got any tips and is there a trick to it, or is it a case of fiddling with it for a few hours and getting there...?
So recently I changed my alternator and had to remove the metal radiator support bar thing which hides the hood catch cable. I'm having trouble getting the thing aligned back up and with the rad too...anybody got any tips and is there a trick to it, or is it a case of fiddling with it for a few hours and getting there...?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,719
Likes: 12
From: West
2005 E55 Wagon
Hi guys, I wonder if anybody else has struggled with this.
So recently I changed my alternator and had to remove the metal radiator support bar thing which hides the hood catch cable. I'm having trouble getting the thing aligned back up and with the rad too...anybody got any tips and is there a trick to it, or is it a case of fiddling with it for a few hours and getting there...?
So recently I changed my alternator and had to remove the metal radiator support bar thing which hides the hood catch cable. I'm having trouble getting the thing aligned back up and with the rad too...anybody got any tips and is there a trick to it, or is it a case of fiddling with it for a few hours and getting there...?
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,752
Likes: 176
From: London, UK
W212 - E63 AMG
Funnily enough it's not even the cable coming out the plastic thing - I'm having trouble aligning the plastic tab things for the radiator, which I'm sure is strongly linked to my problem. I'm able to bolt the metal cover down, but the hood doesn't shut fully from the driver side (your driver side) which is the main problem.
I'll give it a good go once again in the daylight and then see how I get on. Thanks guys.
While I've got you MB World legends here...can somebody kindly answer me the following:
What is the torque figure that I should tighten the idler pulley bolt above the alternator? I've got it pretty tight, but just don't want to take any chances as I know this car likes to give me and every body a hard time.
I'll give it a good go once again in the daylight and then see how I get on. Thanks guys.
While I've got you MB World legends here...can somebody kindly answer me the following:
What is the torque figure that I should tighten the idler pulley bolt above the alternator? I've got it pretty tight, but just don't want to take any chances as I know this car likes to give me and every body a hard time.
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 12,139
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From: Houston
2003 W211 E55, 2003 W220 S600
Funnily enough it's not even the cable coming out the plastic thing - I'm having trouble aligning the plastic tab things for the radiator, which I'm sure is strongly linked to my problem. I'm able to bolt the metal cover down, but the hood doesn't shut fully from the driver side (your driver side) which is the main problem.
I'll give it a good go once again in the daylight and then see how I get on. Thanks guys.
While I've got you MB World legends here...can somebody kindly answer me the following:
What is the torque figure that I should tighten the idler pulley bolt above the alternator? I've got it pretty tight, but just don't want to take any chances as I know this car likes to give me and every body a hard time.
I'll give it a good go once again in the daylight and then see how I get on. Thanks guys.
While I've got you MB World legends here...can somebody kindly answer me the following:
What is the torque figure that I should tighten the idler pulley bolt above the alternator? I've got it pretty tight, but just don't want to take any chances as I know this car likes to give me and every body a hard time.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 299
Likes: 1
From: London
2004 E55K AMG Wagon
What ever you do dont close the hood/bonnet if they cable and support is not correctly setup. If you jam the bonnet shut its a much bigger PITA trying to open it again trust me I speak from experience it took me 3 hours to work my route from under the car including
Removed lower front tray and wheel arch liner.
Removed Secondary Airpump
Removed horn and bracket that sits above the secondary airpump
Moved secondary airpump hose out of position
Then you have to work out your angle of attack I had my arm stuck twice!
Removed lower front tray and wheel arch liner.
Removed Secondary Airpump
Removed horn and bracket that sits above the secondary airpump
Moved secondary airpump hose out of position
Then you have to work out your angle of attack I had my arm stuck twice!
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Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,752
Likes: 176
From: London, UK
W212 - E63 AMG
What ever you do dont close the hood/bonnet if they cable and support is not correctly setup. If you jam the bonnet shut its a much bigger PITA trying to open it again trust me I speak from experience it took me 3 hours to work my route from under the car including
Removed lower front tray and wheel arch liner.
Removed Secondary Airpump
Removed horn and bracket that sits above the secondary airpump
Moved secondary airpump hose out of position
Then you have to work out your angle of attack I had my arm stuck twice!
Removed lower front tray and wheel arch liner.
Removed Secondary Airpump
Removed horn and bracket that sits above the secondary airpump
Moved secondary airpump hose out of position
Then you have to work out your angle of attack I had my arm stuck twice!
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