pnoyworx

Hey I'm not here to tell you chamber is not a problem on lowered cars and I welcome your input. But I drove the car for at least 3k before my trip lowered on these values and the tires did not wear out like it did on my trip. So if you say it's chamber, what would you suggest.. since I will install toe links to address that issue. Chamber arms may not work since I'm running a wide tire and already very close to the fender.

E55Greasemonkey

Unfortunately the offset bushings I have will not work for our cars- I tried to install today; the Dodge uses smaller diameter bolts and the upper bushing has a tapered end to fit our spindles, so we are SOL there. I don't see aftermarket toe links helping much. What I will do on my car is run at minimum toe-in settings for the rear. Sounds like you may be lowered more than me as well. Do you drive in town in comfort mode? On the highway, the car will lower itself about 1/2" after 70 MPH, to the sport setting further increasing negative camber. Also on the highway your tires are getting hotter, you are driving faster obviously and if your car lowered further this would quickly eat the tires I would think compared to slower speeds driving in the city, just a theory though. But ultimately, by lowering the car the suspension geometry is off and we can expect short tire life On your 20's the wear is even worse, as the sidewalls have very little flex.

EDIT: I just saw MB arts has adjustable "toe" AND "camber" (upper) arms

urbamworm

I have this same issue right right now. Frustrated on not knowing what to do, should I get toe links or should I get camber arms. One person says one thing, another says something else.

I am star lowered but then also have 2 or 3 washers in the front on the sensor bolt to lower it more. My front tires looked perfectly fine even with the xtra lowering but my rear tires on the very inner edge are cashed in but the whole rest of the tread looks great. I have about 5000 miles on them and they are 285/25-20 Michelin Pilot Super Sports so not cheap so I have to do something to fix the problem, just not quite sure what to do.

HeissRod

I'm running the same setup, STAR lowering + 2 washers, and the insides if my front tires wear faster. I'm even running the MB crash bolts.

pnoyworx

I am at 25 (top arch to ground) all around or a finger gap, no washers or other modification to the suspension. My daily is a mix of city and highway.

chiromikey

this is exactly right. even with some minor design flaws, kmacs on the front seem to be holding up...but the rears CANNOT handle the torque load. mbarts toe links will alleviate most of the premature rear inner tire wear on lowered cars but their camber arms will likely also be needed to get rear alignment back to specs.

after seeing what my rear kmacs looked like i'm not even sure i'd trust them on an e320!

FromM3toAMG

do you guys think someone using an actual lowering module will have the same issues?

chiromikey

the method of lowering won't matter...

pearlpower

Yep, had alignment checked just a few days ago as my inner fronts wear out in 5k miles. They said the car was within spec. Interestingly my rear tires are even wear. STAR lowered around 27mm front/25mm rear or so. Lowered several times and retained the lowest locked on setting-though all the same number in STAR.

Still, granted not a daily driver, still 5k miles.....

ginger55k

My very first mod, car stock, fitted ELM yesterday.


v2 ELM with 2" drop

FromM3toAMG

Did you drop it 2" in the front too? Was it a PITA to align?

ginger55k

yes its 2" front and back, camera angle not showing well on full picture, I turn the module off to return to factory settings so only have it slammed when standing still.

It does look like its doing 100mph sat still and no worries about camber wear problems, i am not sure how far using the remote is safe to lower without any issues, anyone any ideas?, car is used weekends limited mileage.

HeissRod

I'd drop the front a little more. That back fender being lower than the front really screws up the look of our cars.

ginger55k

Think the rear needs to be raised rather than lower the front, photos taken 30 minutes after fitting unit so still learning whats best, and remember its a stock 18 tyre not 19 or 20 inch, so will look different to those with the larger tyre and lowered.

I agree with your comment and want it to look as good as it should.

pnoyworx

I don't think you will have tire problems yet since you just lowered your car. Did you get an alignment check yet? Also what is your driving habit? Passengers, trunk load?

I'm surprised that the data is all over the place. Some fronts, some rears, some no problem at all with tires. I figured I would just turn off sport mode when I'm loaded with passengers and going on a long drive. That should keep my height up even at speeds over 70mph

taurran

Lowered with washers for $2.

https://i.imgur.com/TPhcpwQh.jpg

I need some rear camber arms, because I get uneven wear, but that's to be expected for the ride height I'm at. Camber arms are what you all are looking for. There are basically only three settings for camber adjustment for the factory, and they don't allow much room to work with. I just wish there were options for these cars that weren't god awfully overpriced.

FromM3toAMG

Exactly, i wont be installing my V3 if its gonna cost me another 900-1000 in parts and labor.. im only looking for 1-1.5" drop.. maybe.. nothing drastic.

http://mbartsperformance.com/MBA-211-ARCA.html

E55Greasemonkey

I've got an email off to SPC to see if they are interested in making a solution for our cars in the way of offset bushings for the rear. They have some for the c-class and older e class already.

Alps

one of my rears is wearing abnormally, after having it inspected, the rear control arm bush is shot , so the whole arm is being replaced and a fresh set of tyres going on.

i have a V2 and the wear is not bad generally, i had it aligned after setting it to my daily drive height setting.

ginger55k

OK guys so why did I purchase an ELM, honest answer, this forum, the picture thread says it all, I just love the lines of the car in stock set up, but lowered wow, I look out the window to look at the beast sat on the drive it looks like its doing 100 mph just sat.

No other car has ever made me get up off the tv couch and look out the window, it just makes me smile every time I look.

Driving, well on this forum there is nothing more to add other than every time I take the beast out I always arrive home with a huge grin.

So whether you spend $2 or $1500 to lower your car is not up for debate, for me the whole reason for the module was for me to get the same pleasure looking at it as I do driving it.

Now some very clever Mercedes engineers set up this car to change its ride height without you having to do anything other than drive, the reason I went the ELM route was so I could look at the car in amazement at its lines and stance, turn the module off car returns to how those same engineers designed it to move.

Debate: Why did you lower yours??

FromM3toAMG

+1 well said sir.

pnoyworx

Well all I can say is that these airmatics are not good enough. My stock suspension c300 could out corner my e63 any day. After I upgraded my c300 to H&R's coilovers the handling was even more amazing. I wonder why AMG even bothered with airmatics... it sucks.

Now with the right setup lowering the center point of gravity on any car will improve handling. I lowered mine to see how much it will improve handling and to get rid of some gap. I'm thinking getting rid of my airmatic will be due by the end of the year for my car.
Star lowering is the best way to go. Nothing against ELM, but to pay near 1k just for looks after alignment is too much in my opinion. 300bux after alignment is the best of both worlds for me to start without actually changing suspension characteristics and hardware.

ginger55k

Paid a bit less than that as a group buy directly from programma. and it allows me to return to stock settings as and when.

ginger55k

So my original question remains does any body know from stock height how far can I lower the car using the remote before i need to worry about camber issues.

My idea is to have the car at maximum lower parked, and also a sensible lowered setting on the move.

cij911

Lowering the car at all will make the camber worse, so it just depends on how poorly you want the tires to wear.

Also, lowering the car does not necessarily make the car handle better and in fact in many cases it makes it worse (as you have decreased the suspension travel). If you want the car to handle great and like it dropped, then you should get coilovers.